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cbr046

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Everything posted by cbr046

  1. When towing 4x4 . . . . how do you disengage the steering wheel lock? - bob
  2. washing, waxing, caulking, sealing, beltlines, lift pumps, exhaust manifolds, steering gear, aladin, aqua hot . . . . There's NOTHING easy about owning a Class A! - b
  3. If that's the case put a resistor in series on the signal line. Of course they'd need to determine value and wattage. How much current can a 6V relay consume? R=V/I, P=I^2*R - bob
  4. Got this email from Cummins this morning . . . "A new way to approach predictive maintenance" What’s new with Cummins Digital Tools Targeting the commercial customer I thought it would be interesting to predict failures. I'm betting more accurate than my local meteorologist. edit - I had to open in Microsoft Edge because of the tracking cookies. Below is a blurry jpg of the email - bob
  5. Mine went bad and it was the control board inside the ATS. Control board or parts on it were no longer available. Bummer. - bob
  6. Ha! My DW kisses me goodnight at 10:30 then fall asleep in the recliner watching TV around midnite, wake up between 1 - 2. Sometimes go to bed, sometimes stay up (solitaire, movie, whatever) for 1 - 2 hrs, then bed. If I go to bed at a reasonable hour I wake up 4 - 5 am but don't want to disturb the DW so toss & turn until 7:30. Plus it's warm under the covers! This is every night. It doesn't make sense to tape a flare fitting . . . . - bob
  7. I wonder if they changed the source recently. So many of us don't have leaks . . . . or just plain lucky. - bob
  8. Lead acid batteries will self discharge over time. I wouldn't leave them unattended over the winter, even if all cables disconnected. At least check their voltage every month . . . . A solar charger would be enough to keep them topped off. Make sure it's a maintainer, not just a charger. - bob
  9. Only the Oregon ones. If ATC were engaged normally (no switch, no lamp) the rear wheels would bind or slip around slippery corners. Not good. But Monaco applies auto traction by slightly applying rear brake to the slipping side to get both wheels engaged. Also not good going around corners in normal driving. I've read the manual thoroughly in the past. It's confusing with it's double-speak. This is what I came up with: If in a slippery situation turn the ATC switch on (ATC lamp lights continuous). If wheels begin to slip press and hold ATC switch down (ATC lamp starts blinking) until out of slippery situation. My 4-Runner is also in double-speak. I wish they would just say "to engage posi-traction (or maximum traction) do this . . . ". - bob
  10. Mine does clunk when I plug into AC power, I promise! (10 yr older Endeavor / Diplomat w basic Surge Guard 40100 Basic Automatic Transfer Switch and no shore reel - shore power connects directly to ATS at point of entry, Xantrex 458 inverter on other side of coach.) Tom, you have an amazing memory. Such detail! That was @Bigdogracing's one and only post above. Hopefully he checks this thread sometime soon and can update us (Jeopardy music plays) . . . . - bob
  11. That's *WITH* the ATC switch on. In the off position it will stay lit after engine start until the first application of brake. Then it stays off for the rest of the voyage. You might pull an engine diagnostic. There's a procedure in the manual (you have put a jumper on the diagnostic plug) or if you have a ScanGauge D . . . . - bob
  12. Honda 2200 power should be very clean (sinusoidal, no spikes). The inverter probably isn't as clean as the Honda. Shore power can be noisy also. You'd be surprised how noisy shore power can be! Any AC device with a motor (residential refrigerator?) can generate spikes. An EMI filter would be in series with the power lead for the entertainment device (not sure what you're using for an amplifier). On our older Endeavor the ceiling speakers are fed by the 12V dash radio. All of my speakers have rotted suspension (cloth like material from cone to outer frame). No bass to speak of and can cause a buzzing, but only with signal applied. I'd swap speakers first. Easiest to do to see if it's something odd about the speaker. - bob
  13. Sounds like EMI coming through the power wires for the system feeding the speakers. If so, an EMI filter would fix that. Do you still get the buzzing when running off the inverter? What happens when you swap the speaker with another speaker? So many possibilities. - bob
  14. When you plug into shore power can you hear the transfer switch relays click in? - bob
  15. Evidently I'm all out of a$!. All I can get with my 3+1 ft of breaker bar is 427 ft lbs. I could, and might, make it 6 ft but I can see the 3/4" drive bar bending, considerably, and I'm running out of room and angles for my steering box swapout. One slip (or pin breaking) and the bar goes into the coach body. I thought about getting creative with a bottle jack, or chaining it to the 4-Runner LOL, but @Tom Cherry correlated fools not knowing what they're doing and catastrophe. No, I won't be going there . . . . Although there's no appearance of rust or corrosion I've also heated the one accessible nut with a 1000W induction heater. It gets the 7/8" nut smokin but no change in color. Maybe I should have bought the 1800W heater . . . . I don't think that's the problem anyway, and I can't access the other 2 nuts, only the bolt heads, on the other side. Torque multiplier is out of the question - no room, nor can I justify $550 for a Milwaukee M18 Anvil Impact Wrench. It won't fit in the space anyway. So outside of spending big bucks for a shop to do the steering box swapout anyone have a good idea on loosening the 3 steering box mounting bolts? If I can just get these 3 nuts / bolts loose I can move on to being crushed by an 80 lb steering box falling off a floor jack. I also have a leaky exhaust manifold and anticipate a different bolt loosening problem, one that could turn a bad day into a really bad day. I've seen countless manifold bolt videos . . . . If it goes to the shop they may get a two-for-one deal. CHA-CHING! - bob
  16. I used a Duplicolor paint match that was supposed to match but didn't. So if you get a paint code be sure to test it first. Plus there might be fading from age / Sun. Maybe an automotive paint supplier has swatches? - bob
  17. There's some write-ups for an outside door closer using a gas strut. https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/door-swing-arm-replacement-631150.html and scroll down to 'Twomed' . . . . although I think they're trying to keep the door open in the wind. - bob
  18. I get some dribble from the water inlet after I fill. Maybe you didn't notice? Is the puddle still growing? - b
  19. That's one of the suspects! It's the inside tire so not exactly easy to get to. Maybe for a warmer day . . . . - bob Looking inside the male connector it seems to choke down to 1/8" it'll be fine for tires but don't think it'll power my 1/2" drive impact gun. 🤣 Just FYI. - bob
  20. cbr046

    Fresh paint

    did you read the ad? He's hooked on dirt bikes. - b
  21. cbr046

    Fresh paint

    They went to a lot of effort to make that coach ugly. Be sure to show up alone with cash. - bob
  22. Pulling the coupler out just above the ABS control module . . . . my hand could slip and /or the sudden burst of air in FRB. Aren't those ABS modules extinct now? *PLUS* my head, and ears, are right down almost inside the FRB during disconnect. It's pretty loud with the confined area. - b
  23. but not the hose - that's where the "explosion" comes from - It's 25 ft (or more). I want to disconnect the hose then release the air (from the hose). - bob
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