cbr046

I think this is the ticket - https://www.amazon.com/WYNNsky-Threads×1-Compressor-Accessories-Fittings/dp/B07G36JWTK/ between the air hose threads and the air hose coupler. It's SMALL enough I think there's room. - bob

TWO different air access points - The front male connector is for the air bags . . . maybe not a direct line to the tanks? Put a valve after the disconnect - That was my first choice but there's no room. Same for before the disconnect. My best bet is for a short hose and valve after the disconnect so I'm outside the FRB. The manual doesn't say not to use the front male connector, but I do wonder if there isn't more to it than that . . . . - b

Reason? - b

I REALLY DON'T LIKE connecting to the coach's air tap in the FRB - It's just above the ABS module and when I disconnect the long hose it's pretty violent. So . . . . I bought a few female couplers and will connect at the front towing coupler that has an on/off valve. With the double coupler I can turn off the supply valve and slowly release hose air through the tire valve chuck. My inside left rear is losing 1 - 2 pounds each week. New tires and new extender hose didn't change the leak, so it's either a leaky rim, leaky tire stem or a leaky valve mounted TPMS sensor. Maybe I'll pull the sensor and see if it still leaks . . . . - bob

I looked at the Xantrex Echo . . . . While it only charges chassis batteries when the coach batteries are being charged it's $170! Or maybe the $40 NOCO GENIUS2D and leave plugged in all the time. The only time it will charge the chassis batteries is when hooked up to shore power, and there's 120V AC in the next compartment where the inverter is. Only issue is it running when boondocking off the inverter, but would only be a maintenance charge at that point. https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GENIUS2D-Direct-Mount-Temperature-Compensation/dp/B07W3QSMF9/ Maybe I'll put it on my list of "easy projects" . . . . - bob

On our 2003 Endeavor (sister to the Diplomat) the chassis batts don't charge on shore power either. I switch the batteries off when I'm parked, but I'm all ears for a resolution (other than connecting a separate charger . . . . that's too easy). The large solenoid (not a Big Boy on ours) is switched from the console, and it's a momentary switch for emergency starting . . . er, charging. Batt Boost or Aux Start switch. - bob

@Les Hurdle What kind of knock? Occasionally I hear a "knock" but pretty sure it's the LH fender panel catching the wind just right. See if any of your panels are loose and have the DW flick or tap on it while you're inside. Much cheaper than bushings . . . . - bob

Definitely Dicor. Stay away from other sealants and caulks. Dicor stays elastic and moves with the expansion / contraction of temperatures. What it doesn't do is stick to vertical surfaces, so don't try it on the sides of the coach, etc. - bob

You can see "Sheppard" and "M100" cast into the metal. Yup, that's a Sheppard box. Interesting . . . . I'm pretty sure my pittman arm's offset is the other direction, and no spacers on my box (2003 Endeavor). My plate is welded in whereas yours appears to be bolted. Which makes me wonder . . . . if I could add spacers and offset my pittman arm like yours so I don't have to drill the hole? It would mean extra leverage of the box against the frame. I'm inclined NOT to do this with the extra weight of the Endeavor vs Knight. Keep an eye on your steering fluid. - bob

You just want to trace the existing hose? Maybe have someone tap one end with a wrench and feel the vibrations at the other end of the raceway tube? Even pushing the slide in/out might cause enough vibration on that hose . . . . or listen through a stethoscope (maybe). Just throwing ideas out there. - bob

Rather than 'good 'n tite' I figured on using a chart like this one from Fastenal - https://www.fastenal.com/content/merch_rules/images/fcom/content-library/Torque-Tension Reference Guide.pdf Looks like 500 ft lbs will do it. Under the coach there's not much leverage (no worries, it's at ride height then shimmed with wood) . I haven't tried an impact wrench . . . . yet. My hose probably isn't big enough for the wrench anyway. Next week. The original bolts may have been Red Loctited, which is considered permanent and requires huge torques to break. A Red bond needs to be broken with high heat first. My little 1kW induction gun gets the metal smoking after 30 sec but even after 2 min won't turn the bolt red so I don't know how hot the bond got. Maybe I should have gotten the 1.8kW model . . . . As for re-apply with Red I'm not a fan, even if the fix is considered 'permanent'. I agree that underestimating torques of the new bolts could be catastrophic, not only for me but for those around me. Allstate Mayhem I'm not! To be continued . . . . . - bob

@Cubflyer @JDCrow The hardest part? HA! I can't even get the mounting bolts loose! 🥵 Maybe I need to hit the gym . . . . I bought a 1000W induction heater and with a 30" breaker bar I still can't get the lower bolt to budge. And it's cold out (yes, even in GA). Heading out on Fri so I'll have to table this until next week. This is what Sheppard steering is like (for those in unbelief): Not white knuckle but CONSTANT attention to go straight. Try I-40 between TN-NC line and Waynesville NC at night! - bob

Dang. Maybe I should up my Prevagen dosage . . . . - b

I just installed 275/70's on ours, replacing same size and brand (Sumitomo). Size is what the placard said! A /80 tire will be lower profile and handle a little better, but a 295 is a wider tire . . . . When I air-down I can barely get my fingers between fender and tire (275/70), so be careful what you size up. - bob

Try find a thin lubricant. WD-40 is basically kerosene, NOT a lubricant. - bob

Is the coach on level ground? I've seen gaps grow as I level the coach on unlevel ground - the frame twists, the body twists with it. The windshield doesn't twist and sometimes pays the price. - bob

If it's an app you want I use this all the time - https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.chrystianvieyra.physicstoolboxsuite Best of all it's FREE and loaded with measurements. g-force, accelerometer, compass, magnetic field strength, azimuth pitch & roll (can use for leveling), GPS satellite location & strength, tone detector, oscilloscope, spectrum analyzer, barometric pressure . . . . and a lot more! I use it to align my satellite dish. Con is no remote sensor, but is that worth $111 for a Level Pro Plus? - bob

One of our newest members produced a video on transmission filter & fluid replacement. I'd strongly consider it. As stated, the Allison 4000 process is almost identical. Enjoy the new coach! - bob

I never liked using the round bubble. I use something like this, except mine are flat on the bottom edge. https://www.amazon.com/Graduated-Scale-Level-Stick-Bubble/dp/B004LZ7DY6/ Maybe you can find what I'm thinking in the camping isle of Walmart. I like the graduated numbers for a reference, but in reality any mini level will do. Here we go - https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hopkins-Towing-Solutions-08525-Graduated-RV-Levels-2-Pack/191956106 Mine travel loose in the space between the shifter and the wall. When I arrive one goes on the window frame (mostly level front to back) and the other on the radio (mostly level left to right). I get leveling close then sit them on the counter top for fine tuning, F->B, L->R. Finally I open the bathroom door to see it doesn't move from any open position. After leveling they go back to their dash home. Actually, one rests on the switches below the shifter on top of little papers that say "power", "jacks", "antenna", etc. When the power cord is put away, the antenna is down, the jacks are up that paper gets put away, etc. and the "D" is clear. These are my checklists before I put the transmission in gear. - bob

There's a (gravity based?) leveling rod that the driveshaft may have hit while exiting. Should be one on the front also for comparison. Be careful under there! What do you consider high air pressure? - bob

Ahhh, from @amphi_sc's original quote I thought he was talking about a hotspot. We don't have enough signal for a Verizon wireless router at our sticks & bricks so they won't let us have the wireless router. For cell phones we have a wired internet based network extender that gives us a local inside the home cell signal. Not much good on the road! - b

You might see if there's a Love's, Pilot, Speedco, that will fix you up. Of course it would need to be towed there. There's also mobile diesel services. - bob

FAA Regulation! 🤣 Or maybe so they can find their motorhome late at night . . . . (I don't buy that either) - bob

They don't throttle your speed back after a XX GB during the month? I have Verizon with no data cap also, but after 15GB Samuel Morse has a faster fist. - bob

You don't need a digital antenna for your digital TV. They use the same frequencies, just send the signal different. Your batwing will be fine. You'll still need the amplifier as the batwing is a powered antenna. I'm disappointed with "smart" TV's. I've got 3 and stopped using their "smartness" a long time ago. After a year or two their OS goes out of date with no "upgrades" available and the streaming channels you love (Netflix, Prime, YouTube) won't work any more. Plus "smart" TV's are slow. Better off with a decent TV (check the reviews) and a separate Roku (or similar) that you can replace when it ages out, which is faster than tires, for sure! I do like name brands but TCL seems to got good reviews last time I looked. Not sure how it would hold up with an RV's vibration and road hits. - bob