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cbr046

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Everything posted by cbr046

  1. I ordered a TM-88C w 4 sensors (only $7 more than sensors alone). The 88C has terrible daytime visibility but I caught an exchange program on Tire Minder's website for units with improved backlighting. I'll be receiving the "new improved" 88C this week. Two things I like about the 88C is it shows pressure and temp on the same screen and night time visibility is excellent without blinding the driver. - bob
  2. Xantrex inverter . . . I'm sure it's a MSW. I won't try the controller for the other side! tnx, - b
  3. Re-wiring the panel is easy . . . . if you've got a wire stretcher. Just thinking out loud, but my concern would be balance. My understanding is the side that supplies the bedroom also supplies one (or both) roof AC's. If the microwave was added to that side it might overload it. Or not, just a hunch. If you were to flip one AC wiring with the microwave that would keep the balance. Hopefully having the 2 (or 3) roof AC's on different phases isn't an issue. I blew up my electric blanket by running an extension cord to the bathroom then running that off the inverter. Literally smoked the controller! Still trying to figure that out. - bob
  4. That's $24 one time for shipping the transponder by FedX. They didn't say where the coverage was . . . . - bob
  5. Or mixed up the connections . . . . "It" happens . . . . - bob
  6. How do you know when the battery runs out? My Uni-Pass keeps falling off the windshield so now it rests against the windshield on the dash. I could glue it . . . . - bob
  7. I have a friend who's 81. Yesterday he came in 12th place in a field of 28 AGAINST 65 YEAR OLDS riding his Yamaha dirt bike in a National Enduro. - bob
  8. Have you tried swapping Park-Bell relays with other non-related relays in the Monaco Box 1 & 2 in the front run bay? Easy and quick test. - bob
  9. Mr Volt Meter is your friend. On mine I can lay on my back and get to some of the gauge lamp terminals from underneath. You only need to get to and test one. Other than laying on your back and trying to cram your arms into a tight space you can do this test quickly. I think they're a #94 bulb . . . . - bob
  10. Same here but use the air port under the driver. I like the double-ended chuck using the towing port idea. When I pull the air hose off it's like a gun shot with my head right there (and the ABS board). My wife bought a Black & Decker (something) and now we're married into all their gadgets because of the batteries. Not my first choice but is what it is. Bought their "inflator" and there's no way I could wait that long . . . . and not confident it would last under that much abuse. - bob
  11. That's like entrusting your daughter to a 17 yr old with a 700 hp Charger. . . . - b
  12. There's always the Boost Switch but for a $100 Gooloo GP4000 you can have the spare of all spares - https://www.amazon.com/GOOLOO-GP4000-Starter-SuperSafe-Portable/dp/B09HJH1S41/ Todd gave it a good review on Project Farms - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bMXyoIBJyJA&t=356s - b
  13. Regarding Trojan batteries . . . . heard an interview with a guy from Optima Batteries. Turns out they use highly purified lead in their batteries and that makes all the difference in capacity and longevity. They just earned a $90M military contract (so they must be good?). Optimas are AGM only (which I don't recommend for coach batteries) and make Trojan prices look like Walmart $400 vs $200. - bob
  14. Same here (Gweedo's comment). I run a Harbor Freight Predator 3500 because I don't like the noise & rumble of the house generator. Go ahead, call me a snob! But then I haul a trailer to put the Predator in so space isn't an issue. When I get to my campsite (cow pasture) I haul out the Predator, hook it up and run off the inverter until the batteries get low, then start the Predator (unless I need the microwave). This is usually not until the next day. I first started out with a Honda 2000 but when I arrived it would max out the Honda doing a "force charge" on the batteries. This would happen every time I connect to shore power (ie Honda) and I can't find a way to go straight to float charging. The batts are at full charge when I arrive (Xantrex 458 inverter). The Predator 3500 is 100 lbs. The Honda 2200 is a manageable 60 lbs, and there's a "special" gas cap where you can siphon from a larger 5 gal container. You can pick up multiple sizes of Predators (2000, 3500, 5000?) through Facebook Marketplace from scratch & dent and "lightly used" sellers. Sounds sketchy, I know, but that's where mine came from and I would do it again saving hundreds. Turns out you can buy at Harbor Freight, use it for a weekend, then turn it back in for a full no-questions-asked refund. They can't sell it so they offload them by the pallet load. I did my best to research the seller (local, American name, long FB history) and literally met the guy at a storage facility where he had them stacked up in a 10x10. Mine had zero hours on it (scratched somewhere). - snobby bob
  15. I wouldn't have thought to mark the components but it's a good idea to mark anything you send to anyone if you expect it to return. Photos might be better if you can see date codes on various components. Good ending to a great story . . . more like adventure! Kudos to Frank for being a resource for the Kongsberg chassis folks. - bob
  16. I bought a pair of these and use them in % mode. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V8S9PCX/ One for the house and one for the chassis. I connected them to the Intellitec battery test switch for convenience. You won't get "precise" voltages but you'll have an idea where your batteries are without memorizing voltage/percentage charts. When I get to 50% I crank up the generator for an hour or so. You'll learn how far to stretch your juice and when to crank up the generator. - bob
  17. Your 99 Dynasty that 8.3 is a CAPS fuel injection, right? If so it's on the bottom of the secondary fuel filter (shown above). Secondary fuel filter is just rearward of the starter. - bob
  18. Those wires might be the same color but if you remove the dirt you should find printing on the wire to identify it. Don't use brake cleaner or the printing will be gone. - bob
  19. I believe the air gauges are pneumatic, not electrical. Just a far fetched thought . . . . Is it possible there's moisture in the air gauge line that freezes? It would probably need to get into the 20's to freeze on the coach. How far below 40F does it get? If there is moisture (or some sort of blockage) I might try pulling the lines off and letting them purge out. Oh, and welcome back! 🖐️ - bob
  20. I'm also going with rust from the either the beltline screws or the bay door hinge screws (or both). Either way, it's a job to fix (right). There's a video on Monacoer's YouTube channel how to deal with it. When you do re-seal the beltline be sure to use Proflex sealant and plan on using the whole tube. I sealed my tube with HVAC metal tape and it still cured enough that it was impossible to push out the tube. I had to cut the tube open for the last part of the project. If you start seeing your bay door not lining up with the rest of the coach it's critical to fix immediately. - bob
  21. Here's your parts store - https://www.amazon.com/JDMSPEED-Ignition-Cylinder-Replacement-1967-1979/dp/B08K4492KB/ which will be a lot cheaper than a locksmith. If you can find the key there's a YouTube showing how easy it is to remove the barrel (the key part) without taking the switch out of the dash. But I think you have to remove the barrel to get the nut to slip over the top of it to get the switch out of the dash. I don't remember. Whether you can jam a screwdriver into the slot and turn it with a wrench . . . . I'll let someone chime in if that will make things worse. For 21 bucks I'd do the whole thing. Keep the spare somewhere! - bob
  22. I just "washed" my radiators for the second time. The oil gets in the fins that attracts dirt and starts limiting air flow. Probably not enough oil in your case but watch your engine temp anyway. I used SuperClean, BTW. - bob
  23. Let's not go down that rabbit hole and get this long and confusing thread locked. BTW, Venezuela just signed an agreement to start shipping us oil. Not sure what that will do with OPEC pricing but should put negative pressure on price / barrel. EDIT…. THANKS….. Anyone recall the old joke. Young bride marries the elder and as they leave the church, the horse acts up? New hubby gets off horse and hits him upside the head with fist…. THATS ONE, he says. They get a few miles…..then the horse really acts up. New elder hubby stops, finds a limb, akin in shape to a Louisville Slugger. Takes a mighty Babe Ruth swing and almost knocks out the horse…..THATS TWO, he says….. Finally, they get to his house and the horse rears up. He gets out. BOOM from his Colt 45. THATS THREE he calmly says. He goes back to the buggy…his young wife is screaming and shouting and calling him names. He calmly picks her up, lifts her off the buggy, holds his hand over her mouth until she calms down and shuts up. He says…THATS ONE! Post has been edited…..THATS ONE!!!!! End of EDIT…. Getting back on track . . . . My last 2 fillups this last weekend were 11.8 and 7.3 mpg. Must be the tires? Nope, the coach was level with the 11.8 and fuel was pretty level in the tank, not how I fill a tank. On the return trip I jacked up the left slightly and got the extra gallons in, but at 7.3 mpg. Total the two trips (893 miles / 104 gallons) and came out to my trusty 8.5 mpg. So I guess it wasn't the tires after all . . . . The second fillup was 75 gallons (100 gal tank) and the gauge showed half full. I learned that painful lesson a long time ago. - bob
  24. This happened to me when I swapped IGN relay with PARK/BELL and PARK/BELL with HORN relay from the other Monaco box. For unknown reason the relays in Monaco 2 were a different manufacturer than Monaco 1 boxes. Now the coach would start but no air horn, but it was the most benign relay I could swap until new relays arrived. THIS WAS TEMPORARY. When new relays arrived the new relay went into IGN slot, the HORN relay went back to it's original home and PARK/BELL slot was empty. Dang, I had the bad relay and an original identical relay in my hand. 50/50 getting the working relay back into PARK/BELL slot. You know what happened . . . . . I don't even think about playing the lottery. Now the coach would start every time and while airing up it had the normal "low air warning" sound. I don't remember if it stopped sounding, but when I released the parking brake and put the coach in gear the warning was constant and wouldn't stop. Sure enough, I put the bad relay in the PARK/BELL slot. Once I put the good relay in all was good again. So try swapping PARK/BELL 1 or 2 with HORN relay and see if that doesn't fix your problem. Then try the HORN and see if you get no toot. Sorry for the long story. - bob
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