cbr046

48 minutes ago, Mary & Glenn said:

I did get a handful of schrader cores to replace the old ones. 

I may be wrong but I think those Schrader cores are different than tire valve stem cores.

Can anyone confirm?

- bob

2 hours ago, duncan8846@att.net said:

Maybe one of those things that keep self winding watches running while not being worn, like Rolex (and no, I don’t have one of those) 😊.

That just opens up all kinds of ideas, first being something I can't even think of a name for.  It has a tiny water pump that slowly fills a basin on the short end of a lever (middle fulcrum).  On the other end is a bird's head or something decorative.  When the basin fills and gets heavy enough it moves the lever, dumps the basin water into a reservoir and repeats.  The mobley could be attached to the balancing point on the lever.  If nothing else it would make a GREAT conversation piece!

Or on a platform run by a tiny (very) quiet motor on a cam . . . .

Or attached to a pendulum.  Got any grandfather clocks in your Entegra? 

This should be a Monacoer Group project.  Chime in guys!

- bob

I bought a cheap AC gauge set off Amazon.  It works perfectly.

I added several 12 oz cans to the dash AC to get low side pressure up to 20 psi.  I believe 30 - 35 psi is the max but it wasn't increasing and I was getting nervous as overcharging can cause damage.  I'm getting 20F differential and that's about as good as it gets.   

If there was no charge at all you'll want to look for leaks at various junctions. 

- bob

When you "started adding some" how many oz / lbs did you add?  how did you measure how much added? 

The compressor won't engage until there's sufficient charge in the system.

- bob

Hopefully I took the pic from the perspective you're thinking about . . . . from the rear, under the fender, just under the license plate.

- b

Is this what you're looking for?

To the left of radiator is a rubber bumper.  Looks like it's supporting a frame. 

2003 Holiday Rambler Endeavor

- bob

If you JB Weld it, and it doesn't fix the seeps, what have you lost?

- bob

1 hour ago, Dr4Film said:

Now that my Power Pack is no longer operational I may try the AG Diesel Solutions chip one day.

Now that got me to thinkin . . . .

The AG DS chip says it gives 10-20% better mileage and costs $724 (ISC w CAPS pump).  So at 10% better mpg it would take $7500 in fuel to save $750, or 2500 gallons (at $3/g).  At 9.5 mpg, a 1 mpg increase, that's 23,750 miles, or about 2 years driving for me.  I'm using round numbers BTW for order of magnitude. 

I'm not concerned in my 0-70 elapsed time or if I can pull that hill without dropping speed.  It's all about the buck.  THE PROBLEM IS . . . . . DW handles all the finances.  Convincing her is the challenge. 

Let 'er rip,

- bob

The hot water tank will develop a "sulphur smell" if left filled and not used for a few months.  Pretty easy to distinguish - run hot water only.

I've not had to disinfect the cold water tank, because in the past I would dump the tank after almost every trip.  On the Fleetwood it was easy as it had a large 2" dump valve & line.  The Holiday Rambler not so much - it just trickles out and takes forever.  I could open a drain line and run the pump but really don't like running the pump that long. 

Pour the bleach into an empty water hose then fill the hot or cold tank depending which way the valve is set.  After filling the HW tank get it hot and let it sit for a spell, then dump the tank. 

How much bleach does it take?  I don't know. 

Don't let it sit in the cold water tank too long (not more than a day).  The tank is plastic and bleach can make it brittle over time (months).  Be sure to flush the tank and lines with fresh water to flush the bleach solution out.

Best,

- bob

There's a somewhat related discussion on iRV2.  It's coming up on a year old.  It doesn't address your failures but discusses what others were replacing with. 

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f53/replacement-for-mobley-hotspot-510984.html

Wild guess but your's could be heat related from a buildup of dust covering internal components (attracted by the heat).  Try blowing some compressed air through it.  But I'm guessing it's on it's last leg. 

Good luck,

- bob

Any chance the ATC light is flashing? 

Just a hunch . . . . maybe barking up the wrong tree (turned out to be a clogging fuel filter / ISC engine).  My cruise was downshifting the transmission, but cruise stayed engaged.  Early symptom was a ATC light flashing. 

- bob

You switched sensor wires between front and rear and still indicated bad rear pressure?  Or did the problem stay with the rear sensor?

If it's jumping around multiple times / sec I'd say wiring somewhere . . . maybe a ground wire (if it's a ground reference). 

I can't offer specific help, just throwing up some basic questions.

Best,

- bob

Or maybe the ECU is controlling maximum boost

- bob

How much of that 10 hours was beating on rusty bolts / joints?

- bob

Update:  Ordered

Inseego 8800L Jetpack (Verizon hotspot) used from Amazon, about half price.

Two Wilson (WeBoost) directional antennas (MIMO setup)

Two 25 ft cables + 2 SMA-TS9 pigtails . . . . all for $285

There was a lot of shopping for reputable low loss cables.  The Wilson / WeBoost cables were ultra low loss and more than the antennas so I went with alternatives (Wlaniot, 25 ft) at 1/3 the price.  There's a wide variety in cable quality.  Some are loosely braided, some are aluminum foil shielded . . . . It's a crap-shoot whether these cables will be any good or not.  I may never really know (no testing equipment). 

Still need to that all important SIM card and to build a PVC mast for a temporary setup.  Got a trip to middle-of-nowhere PA in 10 days.  We'll see if there's any signal to work from. 

Ultimately I'll want to attach the two antennas to the TV mast without removing the batwing.  I don't think there will be much wind loading that low to the roof, but I'm very apprehensive about punching new holes and pulling cables inside the roof.  A few more videos should do it . . . .

"Film at 11"

- bob

Could be a control cable for a satellite system.  Seems like old (like ancient old) Direct TV receivers had something like that.  Above the drivers seat / left is where they put the sat rec.  Above / front is for the stereo / CD player. 

- bob

On 7/13/2021 at 7:22 AM, 6Wheels said:

How do you like the Garmin?

I don't the differences from an RV 890 but I have an RV770 . . . .

In autoroute it sometimes takes me waayyyy out of the way, sometimes an hour, for routes I used to travel without the "RV" route.  No low overheads, no overweight bridges, no narrow roads.  Maybe there's paid advertisers on the longer route 😉 .  I might be retired but I don't have THAT much time!

In autoroute the GPS will show a rendering of the exit / turn.  If scrolling through turns in the route it shows a rendering of every exit / turn.  Very realistic. 

When looking at the big picture there's very little detail (detail level is at max setting).  It will show the outline of a town but no name.  Same for roads - just squiggles, no names (or #). 

When missing a turn or intentionally going off route it re-calculates pretty fast.  Well, compared to my StreetPilot III 🐢

With no route programmed it doesn't tell me how far to the next exit.  Exit x - yyyy road ahead, but no mileage.  nit picking but nice to know . . .

But it DID replace the previous GPS, a Garmin Streetpilot III Color, so that says something (like not having to reprogram the maps for long distance trips).  RV770 contains the entire US (as all modern GPSs do).  SP3 w 128MB card will only cover most of the SE US, and host software isn't compatible with Win 7 or Win 10.  I have to keep a machine with Win XP, which Microsoft disabled all browsers for (security issue).  It's painful getting old . . . .

It's challenging to find stops (food, gas, etc.) along the way.  Streetpilot III is much much easier (but map data is 20+ yrs old).  Google to the rescue. 

Many times I'll check the route with Google Maps as a 2nd source.  Highly recommend!

- bob

Did you pre-fill your filters or cycle the ignition switch several times to fill them?

- bob

My first time driving an RV I ran onto the shoulder at 50 mph within a mile of the dealership.  It was a state road, albeit a narrow one, with a steep (6 inches?) drop off from the pavement to the shoulder.  Mail boxes were approaching!  Rather than whip it back onto the road I rode it out until the RV stabilized then back onto the highway where the drop off wasn't so much of an edge.  It was all over in 5-10 sec.  No damage but a real eye-opener. 

I'm sure we've all been there with similar close calls. 

- bob

7 hours ago, Tom Wallis said:

It is my understanding that most signal boosters are not MIMO.

Correct.  Boosters are NOT MIMO.  Hotspots are MIMO but most don't have external antenna connectors, and they don't amplify a poor signal.  Same for cellular routers, although those usually have external antenna connectors.  Both hotspots and cellular routers require their own account plan, although it can usually be added to the main monthly account for not a large cost.  Many routers have dual sim capability for multiple carriers and can automatically flip to the other when one isn't working. 

That's what I've learned so far, and none of the answers are a total solution.  I'm torn between the three.  Many times the signal will barely be there, always I'll be competing for access when I need it most.  Did I mention I might need to make it portable?  LOL

- bob

Thanks for the insight IvanK.  And I was worried about competing with 900 users, not 50,000! 

It looks like boosters (actually the carriers fault) aren't much good for uploading - very slow - but might be the best first step.  If it works well enough end of story.  I'll be working in rural environments uploading data (race scores).  It's not like video so BW shouldn't be too high.  I don't think signals will be good / reliable enough for a MIMO router with external antennas.  It's very site dependent and ~ dozen different sites through the year.  The last time it worked great until everybody jammed the tower.

I like the secondary tower idea.  👍

The more I research the faster my head spins (and emptier my wallet gets). 

- bob

The WeBoost power supply is 6V DC, which means you'll need to have a 12V-6V converter or have 120 AC on the road.  Just sayin.

My issue is getting there and having decent signal until 900 others show up.  At that point it becomes unusable.  I'm counting on having a "stronger signal" to cut through the noise.  If that won't work let me know now. 

I'll be getting something in the next few weeks but my pockets aren't that deep for that brand.  Plus I only need one carrier (Verizon) so multi-band isn't an issue (unless I switch to another carrier ~or~ need to let others use the signal).  My primary use will be parked in remote areas so I'm inclined to go with the directional antenna and deal with pointing it.  There's an app for that (Open Signal).

I was thinking of using the TV mast for 1.) raising and 2.) pointing.  Hopefully I won't need to watch OTA TV and use the computer at the same time. 

Hopefully we can talk about 2 systems in JDCrow's thread. 

Best,

- bob

Don't start with a big bus

- b

Mine happened at the height of the Colonial Pipeline ransom outage where locating fuel in the Eastern US was darn near impossible.  I ended up filling the tank at my local Ingles supermarket before the trip, which had been around 1/4 tank for 3 weeks.  Just the fact they had diesel might indicate they didn't get much activity.  Between the Ingles and letting my tank sit near empty I'm thinking I picked up some growth.  My other fuel stop was at a TA Truck stop on the way up.  The engine was acting up and it was late night so I didn't want to stop on the way home.  Fuel mileage was phenomenal (10.6 mpg)!  When I got back the fuel in the filter was pretty dark with contaminants floating around in it.  I still haven't changed the secondary filter (but I carry a spare). 

Years ago I witnessed a friend that filled up at a no-brand truck stop, basically a run down station on the interstate.  He spent half a day trying to get it started, including spraying ether in the intake.  He pumped a bunch of water out.  I vowed then to always get fuel at a high volume branded station . . . . and that was years before I bought my first diesel powered vehicle.  Some lessons stick with you.  The best lessons are witnessed, not experienced. 

- bob

4 minutes ago, Gary 05 AMB DST said:

Robert and Aimee, Doesn't the ATC light refer to automatic traction control? Did you accidently turn on the ATC on the console switch? Do you have the owner's manual?

Gary 05 AMB DST

No accident and yes, the owners manual talks about how ATC works and nothing about fuel starvation.  Owner's manual isn't very helpful in this case, maybe even misleading. 

3 minutes ago, Nevada Rob said:

 I think it comes when under load as in going up hill???🤨

EXACTLY!  and it will get worse (trust me on that one).  Mine started toward the end of a 625 mile trip and didn't think much about it.  On the return leg (another 625 miles) the transmission would downshift with cruise control on and a little more ATC light on upgrades, but still intermittent.  Next trip, a short 400 mile trip (both ways) I didn't notice it much, probably because the DW was with me.  The final trip, 430 miles one way, it was noticeable with power still seemingly available, but on the way home (430 miles) it kept getting worse and worse and I was lucky to maintain 45 mph on the slightest upgrades.  The more throttle the worse it got.  I was using the boost gauge to determine how much throttle it could handle, and 10 lbs of boost was all she would do.  Momentum was my friend. 

Go out and give it full boost and see what happens.

Best,

- bob