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cbr046

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Posts posted by cbr046

  1. 38 minutes ago, Cubflyer said:

    OBTW, I would love to get a little more power out of my 8.3... looks like you have done some things.... what's possible to get more than the advertised 330hp?

    Ken

    Would 431 hp be enough?

    https://official.bankspower.com/magazine/powerpack/

    Now for the rub . . . "designed to work with 1998 to 2000 coaches built on the Roadmaster and Spartan chassis" . . . except they tested it on a 2001 Windsor

    And "only" $2,995.  Let me know how it works out 😉

    - bob

    edit - Didn't see Timaz comment . . . and the part where it was in April 2003 Motohome magazine.  I guess they printed them back then.

  2. Page 345 of my 2002 Endeavor Owners Manual -

    "The power steering reservoir with internal filter is located in rear engine compartment. The hydraulic filter assembly is located inside the reservoir. It is rated at ten micron*. The reservoir is filled with Dexron III Automatic Transmission Fluid from the factory.
    Filter assembly: Nelson 910048A
    Element number: 83213D (ten micron)

    The primary function of the power steering reservoir is to keep the steering system free of contamination and to dissipate excessive heat that builds during extreme operating conditions.
    Check the oil level in the reservoir every 6,000 miles or three months. The oil dipstick fill is located on top of the reservoir in the rear compartment. The oil level should be kept between the full and add marks on the dipstick. If adding fluid is required, use only Dexron III Automatic Transmission Fluid.
    "

    - bob

  3. After lots of shopping I ended up buying a set of Sumitomos for the old Fleetwood through Akins Ford in Winder GA.  They're a truck dealership as well.  They had the best tires for what I could afford.  I wanted Toyos but they were out of my budget.  Goodyear and Michelin were way up there, and their reputations were eroding  Tire Rack, when considering installation, they weren't such a great deal.

    Not saying the vendor I used is the best deal.  Just sayin you'd be surprised where you can find the deals at. 

    Good luck,

    - bob

  4. Scotty, you're absolutely right about mixing halogen reflectors with HID or LED bulbs.  There's gonna be issues to deal with.  With HIDs light went EVERWHERE and I'm kinda surprised I never got a ticket.  Both those vehicles are gone so don't flame me!  Our Endeavor came with TYC / LEDs.  The high beam is pretty good but obviously can't be used in traffic.  The low beam has a lot of shadows, and not much distance.  It's a matter of getting them "acceptable", but I'll never be happy. 

    It might be worthwhile to find some junkyard assemblies (2000 Lincoln LS for me) and carve the projectors into the low beams.  Clean up the lenses and they'd be good.  Mess them up and the investment loss is minimal. 

    - bob

  5. I bought these a month ago.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08NFTFQ8M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    The drivers side simply drops in (with a gap for coffee cup handle.  The passenger side is a little more complicated.  I though about cutting the Monaco holders and these and basically marrying the two into one, but I rarely have a passenger and I can live with an open hole for the coffee cup handle on drivers side.  They (ok, the one) work really well and now my 20 oz bottle no longer tips.  Just wish it was further forward, like where the transmission selector is. 

    - bob

  6. Project Farms.  I love this guy!  His name is Todd and he's like the Consumer Reports guy for guy-stuff.  Here's a video he did on car batteries (4 flooded vs 2 AGM).  Not only is he thorough without the use of a million dollar lab but also very informational.  And like CR he's not on the take.   Enjoy!

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h7rTcBanpMk

    Keep in mind there's 3 battery manufacturers selling under the many brands we all know.  That doesn't mean all those brands are designed the same but quality control and base materials might be better at one plant than another. 

    - bob

  7. I Googled AGM vs Flooded cell and got this -

    https://www.crownbattery.com/news/agm-vs-flooded-batteries-what-you-need-to-know

    Not a black & white answer but it does spell out pros & cons.

    My coach batts are flooded cells.  When we picked up the coach in Feb ALL the cells were dry as a bone.  Bummer, but now I keep a gallon of distilled water in the compartment and check them regularly.  I've had to top them off once (still above the plates but not by much).  They perform ok but when I arrive somewhere the coach goes into recharge mode. 

    The chassis batts are AGMs.  So far no issues. 

    On our Mini Cooper the computer had to be programmed when the AGM was replaced.  AGMs do charge differently than flooded.  Apparently they're a little more finickey but not as extreme as lithium ion.    From all the reading I've done I think I'd be happier with flooded cells and more money in my wallet but only if the recharging system is generic. 

    Batteries Plus has additional perspective -

    https://www.batteriesplus.com/blog/power/car-battery-types

    If the system is designed for AGM then AGM should be the replacement (like the Mini).  And AGM has lower internal resistance, meaning more cranking power.  For a diesel that sounds great.  So maybe I wouldn't be happier with flooded cell for chassis batteries. 

    My 2c, and probably not even worth that. 

    - bob

  8. 1 hour ago, Dennis H said:

    RVrs travel at NIGHT? Why?...asking for a friend..😉...Dennis

    #1 - I like to get home ASAP

    #2 - I don't like driving in Atlanta during the day . . . . and I live in the Atlanta burbs!

    #3 - There's less traffic at night.  And less crazy people.  Also the winds die down at night.  That said the HR is MUCH better than the Fleetwood in windy conditions. 

    #4 - Dash AC doesn't keep up with daytime heating.  OTOH I travel year round, and it gets cold too. 

    Typical scenario is to pull out on Friday or early Saturday.  If driving through ATL it's a 5 - 5:30 departure before the morning commute builds.  Chill out at camp site (cow pasture) with 300 - 900 of my best friends on Saturday.  Race on Sunday.  Leave race anywhere between 3pm - 6pm.  If I get tired I'll stop.  Arriving at 1am is typical and 3am isn't unusual but I've been known to drive until daylight the next day. 

    Rest areas aren't the best security, and they fill up early.  Truck stops are ok but they fill up early too, and it's tough backing up a 10 ft trailer with a 39 ft tow vehicle between two 18 wheelers in the dark.  I've had my fill of Wally World, way too noisy if they're open 24 hrs.

    Worst part is I don't have a job to get to on Monday.  Just something about home. 

    - bob

     

  9. I had HID's on the old Fleetwood gasser (F53 Ford F150 headlight shell).  Yes, it took maybe 30 sec for them to warm up to full brightness.  That's acceptable.  But HID's in a standard housing spit light everywhere.  Trees, ditches, road signs 1/2 mile away.  In 80,000 miles driving the gasser, much of it at night, I'd only been "flashed" twice.  They did light up the road nicely and I could pick out things like road gators at 65 mph before running over them. 

    The HR came with Lincoln LS TYC LED headlights.  Very sharp cutoff.  Low beams are good out to about 50 ft.  Hi beams are the bomb but can only be used on roads without traffic.  I'm working on them for best long distance without blinding people (now maybe 150 ft out), but has to be done in a flat dark area with lots of distance.  It's on my to-do list.  The LED pattern has dark spots in it. 

    I still do ~ 30% driving at night, 10k - 15k mi / yr total.  Right now I just pray there's nothing in my path at night.  I might look into projectors but # 1 don't want to modify the existing shell and # 2 not real keen drilling extra holes.  The fog lights are oval in shape and worse than useless.  Having a spot or projector in those holes would be ideal.

    I had HIDs on my motorcycle.  One morning about 5am I had a car, dead with no lights *IN* the lane, on dark interstate at 70 mph.  It's quite possible those HIDs saved my life. 

    - bob

  10. 50 minutes ago, JDCrow said:

    You can also take out the 12v lighter sockets and replace. Did so on my boat and will do on the coach 

     

    Quick Charge 3.0 Dual USB Charger Socket, Waterproof 12V/24V USB Outlet QC 3.0 Dual Charger Socket with Touch Switch DIY Kit for Car, Golf Cart, Boat, RV, Motorcycle, Truck and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082PNLMDS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_5V1F14JBVBEZ145GZCB6

    Those could work in a variety of places - bedroom, dinette, couch, galley, etc.  There's a version with a built in voltmeter, too.

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08PTZ17NS/ref=wl_mb_wl_huc_mrai_3_dp

    - bob

  11. JB Weld?  Tape the front so the seams are even then epoxy the backside . . . add some steel wire or screening for stiffness.  When the epoxy has cured remove the tape.  You'll still see a crack but only if you know it's there.  You could try this as a "next to last" resort. 

    10 minutes ago, JDCrow said:

    Just took mine out. I can take those parts off and send to you. 

    An event better idea!

    - bob

     

     

     

  12. I'm suspecting fuel contamination also. 

    How deep into this are you willing to go?  Some owners aren't comfortable getting dirty troubleshooting mechanical issues . . . .

    If it doesn't have a clear bowl at the bottom, I would remove the primary fuel filter and pour it's contents into a clear (or at least white) container.  If it does have a clear bowl shine a light through it.  Mine had a lot of junk in it and I barely got home that trip.  Replaced the primary and I was good to go . . . but it was very hard to start because the new filter was empty. 

    You should have a quart of clean diesel to put back into the filter (or new filter). 

    Question for others - How do you store a small amount of clean diesel for filter changes? 

    Best,

    - bob

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