tmw188

I have the tools for soldering CB’s and a little bulb vacuum that removes the old solder. If you could post the relay PN’s you used I’ll probably do that. That would be less money than complete boards. I’ll need to determine with certainty which relays are bad, but probably pretty typical failure.

Bob hey thanks for the observation! I checked all the wire terminals going into all the breakers and all were tight. I believe it looks concerning in the photo more than in person, but I will look at them again. That Neutral looks a little like those hots if you look closely following the wire. Insulation looks twisted? I’ve seen that before on heavy stranded wire. Good observation I will certainly look at them again. Could be, my labeling for the breakers are probably the same as yours. I’ll try to diagnose what parts or board has failed. I think there are two boards there if I remember correctly. One might be just the terminal block but I think there were some circuitry on that board too.

Here is a full picture of my panel opened up. I did trace down the above bypassed circuits against the panel cover labels just for curiosity. Before someone ask the panel is Not hot.

Thank you all for your input.

Thanks for the info, I’ll record the info you posted in my service manual. I think it’s going to stay the way it is for now. Front shocks are way more important on my list.

I’ll look into that wiring work around to get familiar with it.

Yes I noticed the wire nuts. That maybe explains my theory. I can provide a full view picture of that panel revealing more tomorrow.

Where are you seeing that bypass?

Pages 11-14 in the Service Manual trouble shoots the system and what I’m experiencing. Again I have a feeling since it’s been unplugged it may have been determined at some point the Board or the Display is bad and just left unplugged. May have been too costly and not used enough or never used at all by one of the previous two owners to repair.

Ok the fuse is good 3a. I also found these two multi connectors unplugged no notes on why it was left unplugged so I plugged them back in. Started the genny and still no display. I’ll have to pull the display later if it continues to lead me down that rd. It’s over 100deg in the coach right now. In the meantime I’ll price out a new display. I have a feeling it may have been determined it was bad and that’s why it’s unplugged. My guess would be the smaller of the two connectors which is jacketed in a gray sleeve is the display wiring?

Ok yes, I wasn’t at the coach and was focused on the display board I posted when referencing the use of a putty knife. You showing the breaker panel helps clear that up. I see what appears to be the fuse you are referencing? I’m heading over there now to look and I have extra fuses onboard. I’ll check it out and get back-thanks.

Hmm? Ok I’ll look at it again, but it is flush mounted with a trim ring and I assume it snaps into that trim ring looking at the photo, you say no?

I hope that display board pops out easily with a putty knife. I’ll look thru my case of paperwork and see if there is something in there on it. I’ll then check for that fuse.

That’s what I thought. There is nothing being displayed at all. So that being known, I’ll have to look at the wire diagram. Well I can do that and I am use to managing loads on my other coach if needed by monitoring the remote display on the P.I. display. I wouldn't think that on my ‘02 it would have the display monitor if it wasn’t wired?

So we took our coach out for its maiden voyage and one of the things I wanted to check real life operation was if I truly had load shedding. I have 50a at home and wanted to try it plugged into 30a thinking maybe that’s what it would take to get this display to come alive? Well it didn’t so maybe I’m missing something or I don’t have it. I wouldn’t think the display would be installed and not wired in? The inverter/charger controller steps down from 30a to 5a I think it is. The Load Meter doesn’t come on at all no matter how far down I drop the setting on the inverter/charger controller.

I had the switch mentioned above in my last MH. I had a long time issue that I finally traced down and fixed. The board below the contactors has the logic in it and was a issue with the way the board fit up to the contactors. I never relied on it to be smart enough to safely allow power to be sent to the panel from only the genny or the shore, if I loss shore power. It hummed occasionally but not all the time and was hardly noticeable.

Yes inquiring minds want to know.

Let us all know what you find out. It would be nice, if you can trust someone else doing it and waiting two months to get it done.

Oh that’s for sure Jim absolutely.

So what are good replacements. The LYGHT LPT50BRD? So is this a touchy subject? It obviously must have a history of discussion. One of you said you didn’t want to start anything and the other said you didn’t want to give your opinion? I am looking for opinions and I will change it. Thanks for the info on the recalls Scotty and James.

Ok what’s the history, problems, and dangers with these transfer switches I heard mentioned on here? Working my way thru the coach looking at things. All wire connections in the box were tight and I didn’t notice any signs of heat damage. What are the issues with these.

This is a Cummins PN 84101B-20 Google it and there will be numerous options.

Good pricing.

I just replaced my filters and changed fluid. Fluid Dextron III (basically equivalent check label it will show the # your looking for) from Auto Zone. Filters from Modern Group $40.

Looks perfect!