tmw188

I guess it’s like when growing up when things were made in Japan.

They do the painting too or just your service work?

I recently had intermittent issues getting mine to extend. The one time when it did extend out again to the stop I noticed the fluid level was not quite at the extend full mark. It took maybe 8oz or more to bring it to the line. So far it’s been working. It makes a loud shake and rattle noise when I start while in the closed position however, but not while extended. I figure it’s the tray on the rollers. I will need to check those at soon.

Now you have me worried about my recently purchased Fleet Guard from AMZ? Not the same filter PN though as yours. They are spares and will only need them while on the road or at next filter change. Made in Mexico STRATAPORE? It appears maybe the Stratapore is for both 12&24 valve engines, verses the std Fleetguard are for 12 valve?

You might want to stay in Shipshewana and drive into Elkhart.

If you do tape it, I would probably use some clear packing tape instead.

That fixed the problem. Loosened the feed line loosened the mounting nut. Pulled away the feed line to inspect for damage by feeling the flare. All seemed fine. Resecured the line then tightened the mounting nut. Very important step Richard that I didn’t do. I felt confident that was going to fix it. Now we will move onto something else. 🤪

Thanks Richard I did see that in the manual. I didn’t however leave the mounting nut loose. I probably don’t have it tightened anymore than one flat. I will have to back out of this and start over. The fitting did thread on by hand with no difficulty and no resistance with the wrench until it bottomed out. I’m curious though outside of this why that other seat looks different.

Yep that was my next question. The ole forgotten oil change I’ve heard it referred as.

I guess we’re old school guys on that terminology. What was really messed up was you can’t use a line wrench on that one line because it won’t slip over the fuel line to get to the nut. Nothing is ever easy.

I used flare nut wrenches(line wrenches same thing diff name). Finger tightened very easily many turns. Yeah I wouldn’t think there would be oring especially on fuel, but the seat looks different compared to the other seat on the filter. I looked at the other filter to see what might be the reason. I know it’s not cross threaded but your suggestion on leaving the nut loose that holds the filter onto the bracket might be the answer anyway, allowing it to float a little. I know sometimes that letting the line float a little might help it square up when tightening. Top pic line going to the motor, looks like a typical flare seat, bottom pic line coming from fuel pumps looks different.

I stubbled upon this Gathering and would like to attend being we will only be about 50mi away. I would have not known of this if I didn’t happen on to it. I’m new to the Monacoers but wish I would have received an email telling me about it. Hope to make the decision soon and get signed up.

How many miles you have on that rig?

Nice upgrade, but I doubt I’ll be doing that. I like the idea of the water separator filter. BTW you can’t get a line wrench on the rubber hose fitting leading to the engine. It’s a 7/16 and you can’t slip it over the hose to get it on the nut. I opted to use a slim crescent wrench to get a better tighter fit on it because the 7/16 wrench seemed like it wanting to start to slip. It was successful.

Well it was the filter, however I have some seepage now at the fitting going to the filter from the pump. I tightened it sufficiently for a flared fitting but I needed to continue to tighten a little more while checking for leaks. After looking at the inside of the other filter it doesn’t appear to be a flared fitting but maybe has an oring style seat instead. The other end (small end)of the filter leading out of the filter Does look like a flare style seat. So I’ll need to pull it off again because it shouldn’t need to be any tighter than it is. We will see. That’s unfortunate and sounds like it is a PITA. My door drops down vertically totally out of the way.

Not me, sorry.

Yep on the maintenance. That’s all I seem to do with previous coach but it paid off when I sold it. This coach is only month old to me so I’m doing a lot of maintenance right now to start with a clean slate so to speak. I’ve put about 12 hrs on the gen over the last two weeks while doing things inside and it just quit. It had a complete service in 11/19 then sat almost 1.5 yrs but has ran good since I bought it. I’ll be checking more when the temps drop some. I’ll look at the belt before changing FF. Air filter is brand new and from the looks of the FF it may be too. As soon as the primed fuel is used up it dies.

Mine took 12 gal 350 ISC Side Radiator I used

I think that’s right, I was thinking that myself. I will let you know for sure. My gen is on a power slide and today is one of the days it doesn’t want to open. I’ll have to check into that too.🤪

I’ll feel feel for air flow-thanks

Ok my diesel 7.5 gen has been running fine but recently quit. I thought maybe it was the fuel tank being too low, it was at about 3/8 of a tank when it died. After getting fuel a few days later it didn’t make a difference. It will however start and run when primed until the prime runs out. I’m going to change the fuel filter first but the fact that it runs until the prime is used up, does that still lend itself to the fuel filter? I’m assuming the fuel pump is working ok being it is priming, but that is a manual call for fuel maybe when it’s running it’s not getting voltage. Anyone experience this before? Typical Code 36

I was just online last night looking for one! I might go ahead and try them, they are less expensive and they won’t break on you.

Thank you to all the posters to this thread. I decided to have it done at a reputable diesel truck center. I provided the coolant because I didn’t want to use the EL and OAT coolant they had in stock. They did some other things including a state inspection. Checked out my steering hydraulic noise and gave their opinion. They have a grate it appeared that they drain the coolant into, it must lead to a sump pit that gets pumped out from the looks of it. Easy! Drained, flush, back filled and drained block.

Thanks Gary, disposal is a big deal I know, along with other logistics I’m having it done and they let me provide my own coolant.

Ok thanks Roy. Posted that question twice by mistake. Thought I put it in another thread. Running around and forgot I had asked earlier. Getting forgetful I guess.