tmw188

Had the manual in hand and it will not go into clock setting mode.

Just a thought but sounds like it’s only reading one house battery?

That’s what I have yes. I have the manual I just haven’t looked at it close enough with all the other things I’ve been figuring out. This is next in line.

You guys have helped me out with many things since getting this coach so here is another. Do I, or do I not have auto gen start? So I have some labeling in different locations of being careful and aware of the coach having auto start. On my inverter controller I can scroll thru the settings and one of them is the gen auto start. When I select it to set it up I get no other display. So I hope I’m explaining that right because it’s been a few weeks since I looked at it. I wouldn’t think they would have the labeling if it wasn’t equipped with it. Now it’s been a few weeks but it might be possible that it says that it may be equipped with generator auto start. What do you think?

Oh, well that’s a different story then.

Sounds like you already reasoned yourself out of taking 40.

Can you post some pictures either from the gen or from the manual.

I think it was about the bypassing of the system and trying to manage the loads yourself. Not all can do it safely and could forget to do something. The wife won’t understand any of it that’s for sure and could turn something that you specifically told her not to. He probably probably want to walk thru exactly what you lined out.

Thanks amphi, not sure about that. I talked to a Chris again today at Intellitec to get his opinion on whether or not things may be operative because of what I was getting on my display. He said said Maybe. I asked him about stepping down at my house from a 50-30 then plugging into that? He didn’t know for certain but didn’t think it would be a good way of checking it out. I then said what if I plug into my 20a in my garage and then use my adapter to go up to the 50a on the coach, then go in and step down the display to a 20a feed. He said if I was wanting to do that to call him and he would walk me thru doing that and there was some things he would have me run thru. He said those bypass work arounds are dangerous even if you think your managing your loads. I think we all understand that statement.

Maybe?

Yes LP only. The run at the wtr htr has been abandoned. I’ll look for the wire up in the panel. It must still be hooked up in the panel because there are 4 runs in there. I’ll look at one of the pics it probably is switched off?

Richard no I did not check those loads but definitely will today. My wtr htr has been replaced by the previous owner to a tankless. That could explain the reason that was done too, if they stayed at the same place with a small service? Not crazy about that wtr htr much but it will be ok for now.

Well I have a display! This was with both AC’s running on the gen. Now whether it will shed when on 30a shore power I don’t know. One of you amphi might of been onto something or some variation of his theory? Anyway it’s come along way since my first post. I have learned a lot as to what I was looking at and what was in front of me. Didn’t know crap about it, but now have some understanding at least thanks to all that helped. So like I said I guess it doesn’t mean it will worked like designed but this has to tell us something?

Good question Richard, no real NEED to do it. On my other coach I watched it because I was monitoring at times what receptacles were on what Line, 1 or 2 based on temporary loads like coffee pot and a portable htr. during the winter in FL. That’s the only reason. The boards on the PI’s are off sometimes and can be calibrated with the calibration screws per instructions. I’ve had to do mine by PI suggestion because they were off. Yours could be off too but I think the swing woul d have to be over 125 I think. I would get a PE7 often seemingly no reason. I forget what it is now. I also had a high Hertz display which is very odd. They sent me a new board but I never put it in.

BTW Richard no the board shows no signs of heat or burnt spots that I can tell. You can however hear hear the relays if you rock the board back and forth. The coach is not kept at my house so will I get a possible display on generator power if one or more relays work?

Yes that’s what I was saying.

If I hook this back up I’m assuming I go to the relay side of the terminal block with the 4 different loads and then to the breakers from the breaker side of the terminal block?

Well I wonder then if it is only by chance one relay and I only have 50a and 20a at my house to check it if it’s really going to be worth the trouble if I can’t monitor loads while on 50. I’m use to having a PI EMSHW50 that I installed on my last coach with my display in the coach to monitor loads. I was hoping I could at least monitor things with this hooked up even without the shedding capability. A new PI unit is better money spent I believe going forward.

Ok Richard your right on my friend. I just got off the phone with Intellitec and I will need the whole setup, excluding the current sensor. He said these boards aren’t user serviceable. Not enough info on the relays to even search for them unless I would unsolder one and look at the underside? Here are the prices of the components. He said the display has to be replaced with the other components. I guess at this point I could just hook everything up the way it should be and see if my Display lights up. It would be nice to at least monitor the loads I have. I didn’t think to ask if I can do that. I don’t really care about the Shedding capability at this point. The current sensor was still plugged in on my board but no display. I’m assuming it’s because the board is bypassed so it won’t display any current? What’s your thoughts on that? I think in our phone conversation he mentioned something about when your plugged into 50a it wouldn't display something? When working correctly it should display current in real time shouldn’t it? So there are a few questions here thanks for everyone’s input. Display $129.60 Control Board $345.60 2- Harness $25.00 ea Total $525.20

Yes to remove it.

If I could find the relays I might try one. If they are NC I should be able to test them pretty easy if I pulled the board off. Being it’s bypassed and nothing is plugged in I should be able to remove it seems?

I have this manual. There is info in there that might say. I would have study this some but it seems they could be either depending what pin they are on maybe? Right now over my pay grade.

Here is the board with the relays. I can hook them backup I suppose and plug the connectors back in on the back. Until I look to verify but I assume each one plugs into its own relay 1,2,3,and 4, in whatever order the std setup is. Maybe I can find the relays online and solder them in?

Not sure why above looks like I’m doing a dbl quote? I’m sure I submit reply before quoting another person- weird? Still figuring this site out.

Ok well I appreciate the effort looking. I will look into it. Busy installing new LED lights and faucets, and cabinet hdwr but I’ll get to it. I have one of these for that situation. Good thought, I will be checking into that. Thank you.