tmw188

Yes I’ve done solar on my last coach and use the old refrigerator vent as a chase. Asking about those wires though.

So it’s worked in the past for you Gary?

When I sealed off my old refrigerator roof vent I notice what I assume is a terminal block for solar. I haven’t looked for it yet in my manual with all the wiring diagrams but was wondering what info some of you may have. I did check for voltage there and there wasn’t any. I haven’t looked any further into it, but may be a empty dc fuse space dedicated to that terminal block in the bedroom.

I checked in my OM and the torque specs say 500ft lbs. wow that is a lot for sure.

This is while using the phone app.

Is this band across the screen always there on Quick Serve? I can’t get it off. I know you can scroll up and down past it but it is annoying.

Jim, which brings up another question. How big a deal is it to balance these front wheels? They could already been done from the PO, they have roughly 2800 miles on them. I just had new shocks put on the other day and thought I might get them balanced. There is a large reputable place near me that said it was $40 a wheel, which I thought was cheap? I hear there is a good place in Orlando that does alignment work on these Roadmasters? It drives nice and I may choose to leave it alone and not spend anymore money on these things. AH PO wouldn’t wouldn’t let the broker give me his number. There were a few things I had him do and he probably wasn’t happy. Figured you would clarify that. 🤪

I’ll look in my manual tomorrow when I get back to the coach. It sounds promising that most probably finish up with the proper torque. I plan on having the front wheels balanced if I don’t find balance wts on them. I’ll give them the values in my manual. Speaking of wts, do they use stick ons on the outside of these wheels?

What are the torque values on our Alum wheels, how many of these big tire shops really use them? I would think the procedure on removing them can be important too. Most just use them large impact guns and would think your crazy if you ask them to be torqued to spec I would think.

I’ve just finished converting all the lighting (except the vanity lights) to 12v LED strips. I did the same thing on my last coach. All I do is cut the BLK12v wire after the switch leaving about 3”, doing the same to the WHT ground wire. Purchase the correct width pigtails from the LED supplier to fit the light strips. Wire each strip to the the two wires that were cut. I use small wire nuts to join them together. I leave the abandoned ballast in place, put the cover back on. I purchase everything from a local company and pick up in person. SuperBrightLeds.com When to cut these strips to length as you know it shows where to cut them, but if it falls on a solder joint made in manufacturing you will have to use use the pigtail on the other end of the strip on one section of that strip you cut in half or the pigtail will not slip over the strip. Because of that the polarity will be out 180. Keep that in mind when wire nutting them together on that modified strip. Sounds confusing but you will see if you do it. I can provide a mock-up of what I’m saying in a picture later if needed.

😁

A wise man once told me nearly 6 yrs ago on another forum get rid of that POS (sound familiar). Since then I picked up on that taken that same message and passed it on. They are even older now those units. All the kits and fans and thermal cut offs will never do what your expectations are. You travels won’t be consumed with worrying about the food, how long your wife has the door opened looking for something, getting a site with shade on the refrigerator side, and waiting 2 days to get it cold just to loose it all when putting food in it. Don’t spend another dime on these units, they don’t have much room in them anyway. Your motorhome will take on a whole new meaning when its gone.

Looks like the bottom freezer pulls out further and is more accessible too.

Your PI unit shut you down is my guess, doing its job. Your neighbors didn't have any issue if they didn't have a EMS to do it for them. Your coach was smarter. As for as the IOTA others will chine in.

Ok good. That’s what I did. So they are in the order of relay 1 on top, then 2 and so on the way they are numbered. Other than actually checking the shedding capability they are passing thru the relays and working.

Yes washer dryer is working. I didn’t check the wtr htr circuit because I have a tankless LP htr. I can check it with my meter though if I open it back up again. I’ll assume for now it’s working. So is the load shedding pecking order on the relays pecking order 1,2,3,4? That’s what allows you to pick and choose?

Perfect thanks Richard I’ll keep it on my phone too.

It doesn’t state it on pg 14 Setup Menu shown below top of the page fig 23 for setting the clock. I did just find it on pg 8 this morning under Operation. I went to clock setup as suggested first the other day. I’ll be going to the coach today to see if I can get it set up now. I guess I’ll need to read it cover to cover to perform one function.

Either one, the QD has a ball valve in it and is for LP and NG. It’s not a air fitting. You can buy what you need at any big box along with the gas valve above.

Find the shortest route however you do it. The parts I listed are low pressure.

Yes I have done the same thing on a different coach. Some parts you’ll need. Plan on doing it to this coach too.

Oh I will try it for sure. Kind of under the weather today but look fwd to trying it. It’s amazing how much stuff is not thorough enough to follow and you have to navigate around it all. Thanks to the forums!

I’ll certainly try, but manual then is messed up.

I can try that, but from what I’m reading that sets the start/run parameters in memory pg18.

No. It will scroll down to Gen Start/Stop but will not enter any of the menus it states in the manual I posted