tmw188

Never met John but he was good at contributing to many posts since my short time being on this forum. Rest In Peace and may his family find peace.

You can turn them off (somewhat) on the freezer control panel by pushing I believe it is the two buttons on the right of the three that are there. Without looking I believe I have it right. That puts it in Salesman Mode the lights will be on but the unit will not cool. I often thought about putting a switch on it but I don’t need another project. This is my second RF18 in two different coaches.

Yeah I know that’s why I bought the SG. The water temperature analog gauges are notorious for being off but this one has never been in the area it was until after I put the scan gauge in that’s what struck me as odd it has never read that high before. I didn’t know if the signal was getting messed up.

So I installed my new SG recently and yesterday took the coach back to where I store it. Looking at the SG after a few miles it was reading in the 180’s water temp. I looked down at the analog gauge and it was showing it was up in the red zone. It has never been in that zone before, usually just under200 or slightly above. I trust the SG however not sure if anyone else has experienced anything similar. I’ll have to unplug the SG and take it for another drive and see if that changes the reading on the other gauge. It’ll probably call SG and see what they know too. Display on the upper right corner is the FWT(Fahrenheit water temp)

Ok well I may need to try that. There is no pressure on the lines unless the pump is running correct? The pump and system I assume is self purging of air after opening since it has a vent on the reservoir? This all started immediately it seems when extended I notice the extended fluid level line showed it was low so I filled to the line with maybe 4-6oz of ATF

Can you explain the lock valve?

I will inspect that bracket, the blades looked perfect. Thanks for the suggestion. I counted 9 blades on my Windsor.

Good one Woody!

It’s a side radiator with hydraulic driven fan motor.

Yeah for sure. I don’t need to change anything I was just curious about the design. Thanks for the info.

I wonder then if there are some different detents on the spindle so they can all be set the same. Interesting design.

So I was under the coach the other day looking around and getting acquainted with things, making sure the flow valve was in the on position on my coolant filter, taking pictures of filters, transmission tag and the hydraulic fan motor tag. I rotated the fan blades to inspect them and noticed they appeared to be variable pitch blades. Do these blades have the ability to change pitch like a some people driven aircraft? If so I guess they have some thermostatic control that changes the pitch when the demand calls for more air? I could be wrong and maybe they are just individually replaceable.

Good to know Richard. BTW I too still have the IOTA, but I just bought my coach 2 mo ago. All my connections were tight and looked good, so for now it will stay in the short term and I’ll monitor. It is not going to be easy to swap.

I had the ES50M-65 TS in my last coach. I had issues with it for quite awhile until I really got into it. Esco was some help I even visited their business in Elkhart, they gave me a new board, I bought a new relay(contactor). All a waste of time and money. Their board was out of fit terribly with the relays. It was a PITA. Would I buy a new one, I doubt it because they are expensive. The Hum not enough to bother me ever. Richard is correct on how that works. I learned a lot about them. I have pictures of what I went thru and I blame it on the board and the the dimensional specs it was built to. I know what to look for now if I was to encounter another. I’m sure they have fixed it by now.

That’s what I thought, I don’t dump mine .

Do you all store your units aired down? Is that necessary or just a personal choice?

On many of these State inspections once they start the inspection on the computer they can’t back out, they either need to fail or pass. I’m in agreement with the PO however, bad circumstances. Suncoast does a very nice job I might add.

Well here in MO when you return for a re inspection they can only inspect what failed, and you have a certain number of days to get it done or it is a complete redo $12.50. My last MH failed for one time for a bad wiper blade. I put it on in the parking lot and they then passed it. The state likes to see some fails and re inspections now and then.

These switches usually pigtail or jump from one of the other switches, have you tried to go backwards from the light fixture?

If you have telephone wiring in the coach you can send that signal to any jack near where you want to put the display. I did that on my last coach and all you have to do is cut the end off of one of your pigtails that you would use to run from the phone jack to your remote display and turn it around 180° and put it back on so it will take a special telephone plug tool. I did it and it worked perfectly.

Yes the designed range parameters, good to know. If you have the small remote monitor inside the coach you can monitor it live and also bypass it if you need to. The modern power grid should be 120v many yrs back it was 110v/115v. You will experience some voltage drops during high usage hrs especially at older remote areas. That’s were it comes in handy.

The code may still be displaying with a PE (Previous Error)in front of the code number.

Looking for that page 26 in back of the OM? I don’t see the page numbers? I don’t want to turn this thread into anything too long but do want to find the diagram.

To clear up any confusion. When I mentioned I check for voltage at those two wires was just to see if it was possibly wired to the batteries, thought possibly it went thru the dc fuse block. NP, there JD

Good I’ll trace these down when I’m changing the damn TS in the near future. Thanks All!