Bob Jones

One thing's for sure, no-one can make something more complicated than an RV'er 🙂

Or you could just make it easy on yourself and read the tire placard in the vehicle and run those pressures with the tire cold and leave it alone.

You're very welcome 🙂

I put a link to it with description in the post above.

*Delete*

I give. You win ! 🙂 at least until you get to the point where you understand there are two water pump switches, one in the wet bay and one by the vanity.....best of luck!

Did you even read the replies or look at the pictures? Yes, you're still missing the water pump switch. As well as the gas switch. As already stated complete with pics

I don't now why it escaped my notice. It was Dad's motorhome at the time. I installed the new heating element today and pleased to say, it addressed the issue. It's also longer so perhaps more even heating in the tank.

Btw, Ed, if you look at your panel you will see in the top middle a tab. If you have a small screwdriver you push that tab down while prying back with the screwdriver and the cover will come off. The circuit board will be stuck to the backside of the cover with two tabs. Either way, once the cover is off you will see 4 screws, if you take those off then you can pull the bezel off and see what the story is for those two switches.

The middle on is for the water pump on/off and the right one turns the gas on/off for the hot water heater. Yes, they should be there.

Well, it's now official - these are the world's biggest POS headlights ever made. I got the passenger side headlight in and then found that the long adjustment rod would not move the lens. This meant taking the whole assembly out again and looking at it. Turns out, the long shaft for the adjuster gear has splines on it. The gear does NOT. This means that the rod will easily slip in the gear making adjustment impossible. So I took the adjuster out of the original headlight and swapped it over. Same thing. Take a look at the picture to see what I mean. I STRONGLY suggest that an owner uses a LOT of caution before monkeying with the headlights. They are a very poor design and even adjusting them is problematic. Btw, the original headlights are the same brand as the replacement ones.

I spoke too soon! I managed to get the passenger side in, complete with all the factory screws, which was not easy. In fact, one of the outboard screws was not accessible from the inside. This is the screw closest to the side marker. So I used vice grips on it and turned it back, almost all the way, until the frame released. ALL of the screws required me to use a short Robertson bit and a wrench on the bit to get them out. Every one of them. Anyone that has done that knows what a pain it is. When I got the new headlight installed, I must have adjusted the one adjuster too far (the long rod). It's now out of it's place and does nothing. Tomorrow I will take a hole saw and see if I can drill a large hole in the bottom of the fiberglass housing for an access port. This was, and is, a VERY poor design. I could not get all the factory screws back in without radically adjusting the lights. Many of the pre-made holes from the factory were not used and due to manufacturing tolerances, they drilled and used new holes. Lots of points of confusion and it took some real thinking to get it done, and, as it turns out, it's still not done as I need to fix that one adjuster so that it works again.... I'd have to call this one, not recommended. If a person has enough room to get an LED bulb in there, with the existing housing, it would be much smarter to do that and then just polish the lens. I could not as there is not enough room between the firewall and the housing.

Well guys, some months later and I still can't get the headlights out 😞 I'm thinking they will have to be destroyed in order to replace them. The sheet metal screws on the backside are unreachable. It's also not possible to install the LED's without removing the lenses (not enough clearance). Monaco really screwed the pooch on this one. And then some.

I would concentrate on other areas first. On my 2000 Diplomat, in the early days, it was always really cold lying on the couch in the winter. Found out later there are three rollers under the couch/slideout in giant rectangular holes that lead directly to.....the outside. I filled those in with spray foam and trimmed the bottom under the rollers so they could still be adjusted. Massive difference. Under the slide out, on the outside, was a rubber strip that ran the length of the slide out. It had 3 screws in it from the factory. Should have had at least 12. That fixed a massive draft. I then used sprayfoam in other areas wherever I found through holes. Same thing, big difference. Then I aligned the main slide - another huge difference. I popped out the kitchen window and resealed it - that made a big difference. I'm going to pop them all this year. Let me put it to you this way, in the first two years I had spiders as big as your fist running all over the place. I then bought a Dyson and ran all over the place. Now, I never see them. I saw ONE this winter, a tiny one, on my bedroom ceiling. He was so small I let him be for a couple of days. I felt sorry for him. Pretty sure he landed on me outside somewhere and came in with me. There's not a lot you can do about the front other than spray foam it, I'll get to it, but at this point, the ability of my unit to hold heat must have doubled, maybe even tripled, just by going after the massive holes like under the rollers. My gut tells me that after I do all the windows I'll be very impressed with the heat retention and the drop in outside noise coming in. But I can measure my success in the drastic drop in spider incursions. The first winter I was in the unit it was -8c and I was located on the side of a 5 acre field. The wind and snow ripped across it and right through the motorhome. The furnace ran 95% of the time trying to keep the heat in. Today, if I was in the same location, it would be a much different story. I'll get to the dash area at some point but I think the next big improvement will be resealing all the windows.

Congrats on your purchase! That's my dream motorhome. Lots of good people here to help, and, as others have said, I'd love to see pics!

They're actually scale. It's caused by the water being a bit hard (well water). Apparently when the hard water goes into the tank and gets heated they appear. From what I've read it's much more prevalent on boilers, ie, the higher the tank temperature the worse the scale problem. This is probably why I have to deal with it annually. But when I got the unit from my Dad, after he had it for 30 years, it was way worse. We had never known you needed to flush the tank so it had 20 years of scale buildup in it !!

A pin hole/shorting makes a lot of sense. My gut said it's on the way out since it seems to be getting more noisy. It's not lasted even a full year but I do recall that when I bought it I had the choice of buying one that was $10 or one that was $29.99 - I went with the Camco one for $10...I had a feeling at the time I should have bucked up! The good news is I found the one I *should* have bought the first time.

I kind of doubt it but I couldn't say for sure. It is, for all intents and purposes, just a solid steel loop. But it is definitely the element. It makes more noise when it starts up when the tank is cold. When it's fully hot it's silent again. Go figure. I could find nothing about it on the Internet other than if it's submerged in scale then it will do that. The new one I have coming is considerably longer and it's much higher quality. It may give the tank a more uniform temperature due to it's length. I just thought someone might have run into this before? I'd like to know what causes it. It will be interesting to see how much power the new one draws though. This one seems to be about 180 watts short of it's rating.

Hi Guys! Over the last few days I noticed my water heater was creaky when it came on. I shut the electric off and the noise goes away. Turn it back on, noise comes on. I looked into it and it seems if the element is submerged in scale they can make noise. Flushing the Atwood is, largely useless. I found out a long time ago that the wand won't get it all, flushing through the blow off valve hole won't do it, so I pulled after a two hour wand session. Amazing how many rocks of scale came out. Anyway, now it's as clean as it can get so I put it back in, bled the air off and fired it up. Exact same noise. Turn off the electric, noise goes away. It's a 2000 watt element but I see that it typically is using 1821 watts. Never heard of that before (an element being noisy) but I ordered a new one, this time NOT a Camco, a Dernord, which is 3 or 4x as much but it looks like it's longer too. So we shall see. It literally sounds like the tank is expanding and ready to blow! But it IS the element. So go figure.

Please let me know if you hear anything!

Hi Folks! I have a KIB monitor that was going south and the other day I connected the power feed to it off by a pin or two and it appears to have killed one of the LM 339 Chips. I managed to find some in China so I'm going to attempt a board level repair. In the meantime, I keep seeing these orange things in the wet bay (see pic). What exactly is that orange thing? It is just a sealed connector for all the wires (similar to a wire nut)?

It's an extended length steel valve stem. All one piece. Typically used on some truck applications. You have to dismount the tire to install them. Like this, but much longer. They were hard to come by.

This is what we found. We ended up getting solid extensions from a truck-specific shop, ie, the entire valve stem is a solid one piece extension. The difficulty with them is that you have to remove the tire to install them. The benefit is they never leak. That put an end to our issues on that front once and for all. Years later, they never leak. Same pressure every time I check them.

If it's a regular incandescent with a brass or silver base use a pair of needle nose pliers to grab the remainder and twist.

I'd have to agree. I used to run several forums back in the day and mine used to strip off any extra white space. But given that some of his posts are OK and some aren't, and everyone else's are OK, it's going to be an issue on his end. Just my .02 for what it's worth.