Bob Jones

You nailed it. It's really quite surprising what some of the benefits are. I actually put a Green Goblin down the bowl after every black tank flush. Just being able to say that makes me smile 🤣 They are cheap and when I flush the black tank the toilet paper is, for all intents and purposes, dissolved. And I use regular Costco TP. The park I'm in has something like 200 or 250 units in it and it's on septic!! I smile every time I flush a Green Goblin knowing I'm doing my part !! 💩 It was a bit of a long-winded post but I felt the washer was worth it. Both the old one and the new one. If someone is looking for one it could help them consider a lot of the things and even cause them to just repair their Splendide if they have one still.

Sure do. It's now a self-cleaning toilet. 😇

*Delete*

The seller was very good with respect to shipping quickly and cheaply. So, in that respect, they are highly recommended. The site makes it way too complex and hard to understand. It is a replacement for the existing stock thermistor that is adjustable. You just cut the two wires to the existing thermistor and join them to the new one and then find a good place to stick it. It comes with everything you need and is a 60 second install. You can then just turn the dial to the hotter or colder setting until you get the perfect temperature you are after. Adjustments are pretty minute and you can really dial it in. Here's a picture, not the best quality, but it has a scale on it showing hotter to colder so you know which way to turn it. I believe they also make them for the Dometic line. Highly recommended and very reasonable in price and shipping.

Just an update to this thread, the Articca Snip the Tip came in a few months ago and I can confirm that it is an adjustable thermistor. This has enabled me to dial-in the fridge temps very precisely on the Norcold 1200 LRIM. I'm very happy with it and highly recommend it. The Fridge has 9 temperature settings with 9 being the coldest. This is what I got on setting number 2, second warmest. The upper temperature is the freezer, the middle is the fridge and the bottom is the ambient. Excellent performance from the 20 year old Norcold 🙂

On my Spledide 2000 if the drain hose is lying on the floor it will self-drain. This is why they require an elevated stand pipe for the drain hose. In my case, it's not very hard to take the drain hose and re-route it to my shower drain if I needed to drain an over-filled washer.

It's often just needing to know what they key words are to search for.

Exactly, or someone that installs car alarms. You could also do a search for contact switch and even put one of those magnetic ones in like the one that activates the front steps. Here's 3 for $7

Yes, the cluster is too dark for his eyes and it makes it hard for him to see the gages so he's been after me to make it brighter. The idea was to put LED strip lights above it. Odd, I searched for LED strip lights and found big ones only. It's a new Ford Chassis motorhome. I'm not sure if it has bulbs or if they could be upgraded.

Nice, Any chance you got a link to those LED strips? My Dad finds his instrument cluster a bit dark and wanted me to put a light in it. Try as I might, I could not find a 'normal' LED strip. Either I searched for the wrong key word, I don't know, but I would appreciate a pointer 🙂

Ditto. All we have ever done in 21 years (including using the unit in the snow almost every year) has been to periodically drain the tanks and maintain the air dryer. It's job is to keep the air clean and dry. If it's working right and you regularly purge the tanks you're golden.

On ours I did a little re-design on the rear lights (new sockets/dielectric grease/resealing etc) to keep them operating consistently. Good to hear that the conversion to LEDs on the fronts was worth it. It's more than I wanted to do but on the other hand, I don't have to polish the housings.

Nice! The ones that were on the Diplomat from the factory were the Chinese ones TYC 20-3074, which kind of surprised me. I know they are the originals. How did you find the improvement with new lens and the changeover to LED ? Was it significant?

I'm surprised how many people have 2000 Diplomat's on this site!

Interesting....Looks like a nice job! Did you power them with a relay? I have the same unit but with an LP generator. I love it. No radiator and the oil is always clean 🙂

Did you get the bulbs in with the correct orientation? It seems to be a common issue resulting in poor performance.

This all started with the idea to replace them with LED's and polish the lens. I did find some Robertson sheet metal screws but one of them appears to be inaccessible...... I really didn't want to replace the lens themselves but other folks seem to indicate that you have to break them to get them out. I will try again tomorrow (just for kicks) but am pretty sure I can't get anything on the back of one of the screws. I guess I shouldn't be too angry with new assemblies being $90 CAD ($70 USD) for both. But it really looks like you cannot remove the bulb without removing the entire assembly. When I get it figured out I'll document it with pics because this seems to be a really popular question... With respect to them fogging up again, this is because the plastic is not UV-Ray proof. In other words, cheap Chinese plastic. The original units in mine from the factory are TYC 20-3074 which translates to Doorman #'s 1592051 & 1592052 (seem to fit Econoline 350's etc). I cannot see any way of replacing the bulb without removing the assembly. Perhaps mine just has less clearance than others. I guess, looking on the bright side (haha), with LED's and clear lenses they should be very bright.

Unfortunately, it looks like there is not enough room to remove the bulb from the back. Worse yet, from research it seems that to remove the headlight assembly you pretty much end up breaking it. So it looks like when the bulb burns out, you buy a new bulb and headlight assembly. I found two new headlight assemblies for $90 CAD delivered so I'm going to break the old ones out and then see if I can re-design it so that at least you can replace the bulb when/if it burns out. What a joke of a system. Now I'm going to have to re-align them as well.....

Hi Folks! Just wondering if anyone has successfully removed the headlight assembly from a 2000 Diplomat. I picked up some LED's for it so the idea was to remove the headlight assembly and polish them. Its looking more and more like the only way to remove them is to break them. I then changed tactics and thought I would just replace the bulbs and polish the lens in place. Looks like you also cannot remove the bulb unless you remove the assembly...... At this point much cursing & swearing at the idiots at Monaco that designed such a poor system. Here's a pic of what it looks like stock

That's a good work-around - I need to get one for the just in case bin.

If it's the aluminum boss that the hoses screw on to it makes me wonder if it might be cracked 😞 I'd take a really good look at it. In a worst case scenario, if it is cracked, or cracking all the way around, if you lost a chunk you could have a very serious problem. Not trying to scare you, just concerned about it possibly being cracked and what the implications could be. There also appears to be a bolt or hole in that area, maybe it's there? If so, then it might be as easy as removing a bolt and resealing? I'm curious to see what you find. If my memory is correct, I don't think entire dryer assemblies are cost prohibitive.

Glad you got it cased and thanks for posting up the answer - it can help others 🙂

Don't you have an access panel on the outside of the unit? My guess is the original fridge would have been a Norcold and they have an access cover on the outside.

I'd have to see a picture to get a good idea of what you're working with. What makes the dish ideal is it's high gain but that makes it directional. So you have to be able to turn it to tune in the signal for best performance. Being able to change the elevation a bit is a bonus. You can think of it in terms of a shotgun or a sniper rifle. But...if there's WiFi out there, it will get it. I saw pricing on batwing antennas the other day from Winegard and they weren't that much. For me, Internet is vital so I'd certainly go as far as installing a batwing to get it.

I've been using mine for years now, it brought the entire WiFi issue down to, if it's out there, you can get it, and that's about all that a person can do. It's much easier with the configuration file. Just load and go, so to speak. As far as I'm concerned, it cased the WiFi issue once and for all. 🙂