JohnC3

Thanks for all the help. My issue turned out to be the resettable circuit breaker on the slide controller board. (Looks like a slightly larger metallic 12V fuse) It seemed to be tripping due to engine heat after a trip. I replaced with a spare from NAPA and used some reflectix to line the bottom and sides of the compartment and the slides work normally again after a trip. Thanks again. John

Don't think it would take 4 but would problely take about 3.25-3.5. My 36ft took about 1.8qt for 2 coats. It covers well and goes a long way. Check Walmart for 2067000 it's still $61ca/qt but it's a little better. They seem to have some in canada. Home Depot was very expensive. This is 27/qt in the us from Amazon. Good luck.

Hello Everyone, I searched for this issue, but didn't find anything that seemed to fit. When I travel, my 2 rear slides in my Monaco won't go out. Front (Hydraulic) seem to work ok, but the cable (curbside) and bed slide don't even try to move. After a while is works as normal, once one works, the other works as well. The "While" time is increasing it started at 5 or so minutes and today was maybe 30-40. I suspect the slide room control module (and the 20A Auto-reset circuit breaker) that is located under my combo washer cabinet. I am hoping to find someone who had similar problems. Maybe get a source for the Circuit breaker or another theory all-together (I Really don't want to manhandle the washer out just to find the breaker isn't the problem. It's no fun to move in and out of the cabinet. All thoughts are welcome. I am in AK for the next 2 months so trying to head off this problem before it dies completely. Thanks, John Crowder

I have a 2008 Camelot with ISL. Blew my top radiator hose. NAPA had hoses that worked fine. Most of the hoses were 90deg turns with only a couple straight runs of 8-10 inches. These were in stock. They have a catalog with hose specs that let me bring in my old hose and they matched it. All the 90deg hoses could use the same hose. I had to go to 2 different stores to get the number of hoses I needed. Hope it helps, John

I did this about 1.5 years ago. I have a 36 ft Camelot and it took a little less than 1 qt/ coat and I did 2 coats. Fixed any old dicor (I replaced with Heng's leveling not included in time.) 1 day prep (power wash, scuff with orbital sander, power wash again (low power 1700 psi both times) and mask painted areas.) Day 2 day apply with 4 inch roller and brush. dry 24 hours. day 3 apply 2nd coat. Let dry 24 hrs. Day 4 spend 15 mins removing masking. Painted over some dicor and Heng's, no problems yet. Paint goes down quick and easy, just plan your escape off the roof! No streaks and roof looks 10 years newer. Used 2 inch painters tape to let me run onto the tape with the topcoat and get a clean edge. Prep was the hardest part but important for best adhesion. Supposed to last 7 years. Just need to find a 3-4 day window with no rain. l would do it again in a minute. Hated those streaks from the deteriorating gel coat. good luck. John

In addition to your slide, check the molding between the side and roof radius. According to the YouTuber and rv tech azexpert, that is a common failure point on Monaco and hr, beaver etc. I had a leak that was staining the storage compartment door. Turns out that flashing had a small separation just behind the rear slide where the side meets the roof. Had the cover removed, the joint reattached with larger screws and recalled and the leak was fixed. Took me 9 months to find it as the leak was a good 12ft aft of where the damage was. Water runs inspect any above the damage. Be sure to check the eternabond tape on the slide roof, mine needed to be replaced on 2 slides so far. If you need to replace it and have a metal slide top, a vibratory saw with a scraper blade will make it Much easier, also the easiest thing to take off the residue is gasoline works better than anything else I tried. Good luck!

Just a thought and I am not tranny guy, but could low sump temp be an alert that the tranny temp is to low to do a hot check?

Roam is like portability except it's a 1 way change. Once you go on roam, you are at lower priority and higher price than residential. But if you RV in the east, using residential and changing service address won't work well.

On my 2008 Camelot, steps went bad with the clicking and I got under and found that the large bolt that the gear rotates on had worked it's way loose. When loose the gear plate was not aligned with the motor at the end of closing so click click click. Before looking I thought it was the gear plate. Screwing back in the main bolt got it back into alignment, along with some choice words for those spacers above and below the motor that were a PITA 🤬. Isn't it nice when something you need breaks on your motorhome and the fix is free! 🥳🥳🥳

Mine has an AV amp and cd player there. Based on the other wire( it looks like the wire I had going to my roof FM antenna), It might be some sort of radio?

This is strange. Took my 2008 Camelot in for maintenance and one of the items I saw in the on owners manual was to repack the front hubs. The service manager told me I have oil bath front hubs that don't need repacking. I know oil bath hubs are better (easier/cheaper to maintain). Can someone tell me if these were std on the camalots or how to determine if I have oil bath hubs without taking off the wheel? Thanks, John

Darn, I'm reasonably handy, but for some reason when I needed to replace mine (3 months in), I thought you would need to jack the frame. I took it to speedco and they charged me 100/bag to remove and install the new bags. Bracing the frame seems so obvious now. But I still didn't have the tools as I was full time newbe.😁 Live and learn!

Look up viaair remote intake. You may find cheaper versions but it's a place to start. They seel them separately. John

I have a 08 Camelot. I replaced mine last year. The OEM should be on your build sheet The mfg was Valid. I would not recommend the OEM as it is about $1175 from findmyrvparts.com valid partno was vtl10A014-01 it was 1.1cfm I think if my memory serves it came as a lot with pressure switch, hoses, etc. I way oversized mine using the ViaAir 425C. In hindsight I went too big. I got The Aux air compressor only fills your ping tank (maybe 1 -1.5 gal.) Look on Amazon for the ViaAir 350030 350c is the model number. Is it constant duty 1.1 cfm and runs $216 w/o pressure switch. If you want a new pressure switch it's about $12 a 90/120 would work fine. My pump only comes on very rarely usually not at all. When it does it runs for 10-20 secs, sometimes at 2am! Hope this helps.

I had a drying failure on my splende. It turned out to be wire fatigue in the connections to one of the 2 sensors. Fixed it once by putting a new fitting on the wire and it lasted a few cycles before breaking again. I then fixed it by lengthening the wire a few inches and it had worked for over a year. Need to remove the shelve above to access in place, but otherwise the sensors or connectors are on the front right side of the unit as you look at it. Good luck.

I also have the flagpole buddy system and like ie. I bring the wire in through the top seal of the slide. Just bring the slide in 6in and feed the connector through. I then run it to the tech cabinet I have made in the curbside front slide. Takes about 3 mins to setup a ladder and run the wire and no ladder to take down. Top seal has spa e so no issues with seals.

Had a friend who had the genny running rough. His situation turned out to be a crimped fuel line. He found it be removing the fuel filter from its mounting and finding that the nylon stint that keeps the line from kinking was out of position and the line was kinked. Running rough can easily be a clogged fuel filter (maybe algae in the tank), but this is maybe something to check as it requires no parts to fix. before digging in too far, get the full diagnostic code by the method mentioned above, then go from there, Hope this helps, John

Thanks everyone for the great responses. Since I will be storing my Camelot near Phoenix, I don't believe winterizing will be required. I will leave the Freshwater tank dry and the black and grey tanks Clean except for ~10 Gallons of water and a treatment of happy camper. I appreciate all your comments and suggestions, John

We are storing our full time RV for the 1st time. We will be gone for 3 months. It will be stored in AZ from OCT to JAN. The tanks will be flushed as clean as we can make them before storage. I am wondering is it better to store the Black/Grey tanks with water or dry. I am thinking that if I put water it will just allow for growth in the tank over such a time. What's the prevailing wisdom? Thanks, John

When I installed myline. I found the screws on the terminal block to be a little soft. You can strip them with a Phillips screw driver if you crank down on them. I would have preferred slotted screws, but that's just me.

Mine already had the 50BRD. I Replaced it with the same when it burned out a relay trying to switch with the ACs on. It is rather flexible, All my AC connections came from one side and this was one of the few that could accommodate that. This is well labeled and pretty quiet. John

Mine is a few years newer and had the 2 Horz. arms to support the awning. It had a wind sensor attached to the awning that looked like a 2x2x1 box with a telephone cable coming out of it. This was the wind sensor control wire. Earlier types may have had a wind vane on the roof instead (with its own control wire). These would rout to a control module not far from the awning motor (front side) inside the cab in the overhead. Mine was behind a false panel where the cabinets over the passenger door meet the front cabinets (so it was in the corner where these 2 meet that is just dead space). There was a 120v control unit up there that had a wire going to the control pads by the door and that is where the wind sensor plugged in. if you disconnect the wind sensor, this will stop it from going in. You could also disconnect the teleco wire at the control pad, but that would turn the unit off (But its easy to get to. I believe the control pad is all low voltage, the power for the motor comes from the control unit I mentioned it the overhead. I would call Carefree of Colorado. They sold me a replacement wind sensor and cable when mine went bad. hope this helps, John

Myron, My EMS display shows the amperage used on L1+L2 on the display when the generator is active. I talked about the EMS generator mode with the great techs at MM electronics when I was upgrading to a victron multiples Ii 2x120. They told me there was a jumper on the system that limited the generator max power. 45 or 60A depending on which gen was installed. My ASSUMPTION would be that the shedding would begin at those levels, but I don't remember hearing that from the tech. I used this info to create a setup that allows me to run 2 ACs on a 30A shore power (30A shore + 20A power share from the inverter) by simulating generator mode. I have used this and it works well if you have stable 30A power.

Thanks Tom, So with depleted 12V House Batteries (or a broken inverter control board) You would be unable to charge 12V Batteries, So with a bad inverter, No power to the 2 circuits on the inverter and in time no power to the 12V house power system. But if you were on Shore power, would this lack of 12V House power prevent the EMS from functioning? (My instincts think it could, as the EMS relay control board has 12V input to it.) Useful info, I should have thought of the 12 and 120 volt system control being intermingled in the EMD control board. Thanks, Its always useful to learn a little more about our snowflakes!

I may be mistaken as I don't know your rigs electrical setup, but my old Magnum 2012 ran off a breaker in the circuit box. If you have NO power, the Magnum should only impact a few receptacles and the microwave. Even if the Magnum was somehow impacting the system, I would THINK you could isolate it by turning the inverter breaker off and that should allow you to have shore or generator power to everything except the microwave and a few outlets.