RoadTripper2084

I was thinking the same thing, it's a pretty basic shape and can be easily bent once cut. What did you use to cut the stainless?

Nicely done.

Thanks for the information. Yeah, I'm gun-shy when it comes to A/C systems, always seems trickier than it should be. I haven't tried to add freon, if you turn on the A/C, the clutch doesn't engage. But why spin the belt for no reason? Might as well remove it, no?

On my '97 Dynasty the dash air doesn't work. I presume in a coach of this vintage it has a coolant leak somewhere, possibly other issues. Living in the northern climes I'm getting by using the genny to run the roof A/C when necessary while travelling, so no immediate plans to try to revive it. I'm wondering if it would make sense to remove the belt from the engine to the A/C compressor to avoid the possibility of a future compressor seize causing me problems? Any harm in doing so?

On my '97 Dynasty I am looking for a couple of replacement parts, hoping someone here will know where to look. My right-side ladder bracket is a rusted mess, any idea where I might find ones like it to replace? Barring that, are their similar brackets I could substitute, maybe ones that are easier to unhook to lift the ladder out of the way? Also, one of the tail light bulb holders is corroded up, can these be sourced separately from the entire assembly? NAPA?

I recently replaced a bunch of mine, found the same type at a local hardware chain "Princess Auto" aka "China" auto. Kind of like an off-brand Harbour Freight, but in Canada. Anyway, wasn't expensive at all.

You must live in a different climate than I do. I consider that a "feature", not a bug. lol.

😉

Yep, we've all been there. lol. On the upside, you probably know a little more about your coach's wiring now than you did before, and the solution was simple and cost-effective. 🙂

Should I be okay removing it with oil in the engine? Seems like I should only lose minimal oil.

Last fall I noticed that what I believe is the oil supply line to the turbo might be starting to seep a bit. The line is a braided one and it crosses and touches a solid metal line on its way to the turbo. Looking at it (without the camera) I could see the faintest small section of darkness around the contact point, now looking at the photos I looks like the entire line is saturated with oil? It didn't look that bad with out the flash... So it would appear prudent for me to replace that braided line if possible. Thoughts? Any idea where I could get a replacement? Also not relishing the thought of trying to remove that rusty fitting on the turbo. Cummins C8.3 (mechanical).

Understandable, you need a bit of time (and $) to complete a proper upgrade to lithium. Once you do, there's no going back. 🙂

I'm pretty sure I do have this paint code that a previous owner had written in my Owner's Manual. But that is stored in the coach at the lot right now. Next time I visit I'll try to remember to get it. But I would concur with the other's advice and get a qualified shop to match the colour for you with their fancy equipment vs just mixing the original code and hoping it will match after 20+ years.

My buddy printed me a couple in PLA as that is what he had handy. Do you think PLA will be strong enough? I'm going to test fit them on Sunday. Many thanks for posting the files!

There should be a similar solenoid to dump the rear bags in the rear engine compartment. If neither are working I'd highly suspect an electrical problem between the switch on the dash and the air dump valves. Most likely the "Bag Dump" fuse in the outside electrical bay has blown, so check for that. On my older rig it's in the outside bay under the driver's window. You should check your manual for the wiring diagram for the "Bag Dump" feature. Here's mine ('97 Dynasty) to give you an idea. BagDumpWiring.pdf

That is absolutely ridiculous, but sadly these days, not at all uncommon. I would chalk this up as an expensive, but extremely valuable learning experience. Try to find a local independent diesel shop with good reviews.

And of course, on downhill slopes!

I too need almost a complete set for both sides. Was going to give a buddy one off my rig to copy for 3D printing and then make them available over the winter, but if the work's been done, all the better!

I don't disagree, it would be great if someone could figure how to keep these experts "available" on a remote basis that makes sense financially for both parties. Until then, we'll always have Youtube... 🙂 https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=how+to+remove+rv+furnace

Thanks for the tips guys, I really appreciate all the help I can get. Not necessarily, because the ground wires on the lights are daisy-chained as well, so if the ground connection is broken none of the lights will light. It wouldn't be the first time. 😉 This is correct, the terminal is just a connection between the left-right side. Here are some diagrams to better explain how I tested for voltage. First I disconnected both the wires on the left side of the terminal, which I believe are the wires to the front and rear clearance lights (these are on the right side of the terminal in the wiring diagram). Then I put my red meter's lead on the terminal and the black lead on each wire (individually) and recorded the voltage present. Rear Lights (rear lights work but go out when this wire is disconnected) Front Lights (not working when wire is connected) I hope that makes things a bit clearer. I notice on the wiring diagram that the front light wire goes through a connector?, M13 or maybe M1.3? pin 9. I think I'll see if I can find that connector, as if I can I can use it as another test point to see if the "bad" wire has continuity from the terminal to the connector or not. If it does not, that tells me the wire is cut between the two. Had to winterize the rig as we're expecting some "seasonal" temps this weekend dipping down to 20F overnight and into next early next week, so might be a week or two before I can get back to this.

Thanks, it's been a process for sure. Re: TS1, well, that's my assumption. I also noticed the color discrepancy, but then I saw that in the wiring diagram once the red wires got to the first set of clearance lights they reverted to black wires, so I supposed the factory might have just stuck with the black all the way to the junction? Guessing here. Yes, with the zip tied wire removed, the rear lights still work. The two wires are meant to be "hot". If I disconnect them from the junction and put my meter positive on the right side screw of the junction (incoming wire) and the negative lead on the working black wire, it shows 11.5v. However, if I do the same on the zip-tied "non-working" wire, I get no voltage (aka, the zip-tied wire isn't grounded). I'm leaning toward removing the insulation batts immediately behind the CRT TV cabinet (EZ access) to see if I can find one or more clearance lights. The wiring diagram makes it look like the black wire should feed into the top left light, which I *might* be able to get to via the TV cabinet. If I can find that I can test for continuity from the zip-tied end of the wire to the light end and that will tell the tale in terms of if the problem is in that wire or further down the circuit for the lights.

Well I'm pleased to report that this repair job is nearly complete! 😅 Installing the replacement dash and console plastics turned out to be a much bigger effort than I was anticipating. Apart from having to hand-cut each button hole larger there were several other holes that were drilled backwards, or mirrored from the correct positions (must have had the template upside down?), so I had to field correct those, fortunately in each case the original holes were hidden after final installation. At this point everything is connected, but the dash, console, etc. is not secured back in place just yet to allow for access. The coach drives, and I was able to adjust my speedometer to be accurate for the first time since owning it. I added an additional ground wire to the dash instruments as well, and that also seems to have solved an issue I had with the tach and speedometer randomly jumping to higher values and later returning to closer to correct ones as well as an issue I had with the temp. gauge jumping up a bit when the lights were on. 😎 The big news is that everything works again! ...except for the top front clearance lights. 😞 The rear clearance lights work correctly. Based on the wiring diagram, it appears the the front and rear clearance lights combine in the power distribution / fuse bay below the driver's seat. This would indicate that everything "up circuit" from there is working fine (ECC switch, fuse, etc.). The black wire with the green zip tie on it is the "bad" one that I think is for the front lights. When I test the two black wires with the lights on, the other one (with no zip tie) clearly acts as a ground to the 12v at the Clearance Lights post, but the zip-tied wire does not, and also does not "buzz" to ground like the working wire does. So it would appear that I have a simple break or misconnection on my front clearance light circuit. It's possible that I cut the wire meaning to replace it and simply missed it and forgot to connect it. The other thing that occurs to me is that I stuffed a bunch of fiberglass insulation in the top cap earlier this summer, it's possible that in doing so I disconnected a wire on one of the clearance lights at that time and they haven't worked since then. Being summer we haven't needed to use the lights so could have gone undetected. So I'm faced with a choice of two unpleasant options, either I cut open all my nicely bundled wires beside the driver's seat again and try to trace the bad black wire all the way to the front pillar, or I try to remove the fiberglass insulation that I wedged tightly in some cases into the top cap to see if I can gain access to the clearance lighting circuit there.

Thanks Bob! You totally sold me on that cleaner. I happened to look on amazon.ca and they had a pre-owned one in good condition I was able to buy for $150 Cdn!

Nice job with the fridge. We really like the residential fridge that our rig came with as well. Biting my tongue on your dietary choices though. 🤔

Here's the link to the video in question: