Georgia Mike

I found this thread a while back and saved it. This company makes door seals for the Norcold 1200 or an other refrigerator. I haven’t had to use them but it’s an alternative. https://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/source-for-refrigerator-door-seals-412632.html

I want to add a fuel pressure gauge to keep an eye on it. On my high pressure rail fuel system I think the lift pump that runs for 30 seconds feeds the mechanical fuel pump then goes to the fuel filter in the rear of the coach. On the line coming from the mechanical pump feeding the high pressure fuel pump am I correct that the pressure should be in the 70 psi range? I need to know so I can get the right gauge.

Ivan, I just repaired a leak on mine about a month ago. I put in almost 5 12oz cans and my low side was about 25psi at 85 degrees. I think you are correct about the pressure reading lower at the compressor then at the evaporator. High side was at the target range for outside temperature. It has been blowing ice cold so I didn’t add any more.

I have looked all over for a sensor cover like the one under the bathroom cabinet. There is a wire going from the middle unit to the bathroom but it seems the rear bedroom just had the sensor balled up and stuffed up in the return air box. There is only one of those sensor grills and it’s in the bathroom. So since I have disconnected it from the rear ac from what you are saying it will cycle from the thermostat now or do I have to connect this sensor and run it somewhere. I think I could figure out some way of installing it but if I don’t need to that would be great. Here are a couple of pictures of the wiring in the rear ac. I have unplugged the sensor wire. This is the sensor that was stuffed up in there that I took out

The owner I bought it from said he didn’t replace any ac units. He bought it from a dealer so I’m not sure. I do know that the middle ac has a different compressor then the other two. It is on its side and the other have compressors that stand up. I’m thinking it must have been replaced or the control board replaced. It doesn’t make sense how the dip switches got changed. I would have to look at the model number to see if it’s a penguin 2.

Richard, from the day I got it both AC units worked in tandem I could not work them separately whatever I set the thermostat at that’s what they both ran at. When I got the new thermostat it did the same thing nothing changed that’s when I started investigating the phone cords and all along it was the DIP switch setting.

So I went over today and ran new phone cords between the units and the thermostat and it did the same thing. No zone 2. I cleaned all the contacts with alcohol I went up on the roof to clean the contacts on the boards and noticed the dip switches. On the middle AC unit zone two seemed to be off so I switch that on and Wala everything is working perfect. I can’t believe it was that simple so freaking happy.

I went over today and unplugged the long sensor wire that was balled up in there. I fired up the generator and the rear ac ran non stop for about 15 min until I shut it off. I had the thermostat set at 65 so it seems like that sensor being up there was causing the issue. And when I say it ran nonstop I mean the compressor ran nonstop. Thank you all for the responses.

Yes I have turned the thermostat down and it still only runs for about 30 seconds. I am going over today to work on another problem and plan on running the generator so I will unplug it and see what happens. Since I have the sensor out of there it might work better as well.

I second the RainX. It will at least get you through your trip till you can get home to troubleshoot better.

Along with all the problems I have been having my rear ac is short cycling. Fan is running all the time but the compressor comes on for about 30 seconds and turns off. When I was troubleshooting my phone wire connections I found this wad of balled up wiring in the ceiling. I think this is for the temperature regulation so I don’t understand why this 15-20 feet of wire is balled up in there. I have a sensor in the bathroom under the cabinet and verified a wire is going to it so I’m not sure what this one is for or where it’s supposed to be. Is this supposed to be there right next to the evaporator? It has a little black sensor on the end of it.

Today I went over and started trouble shooting my thermostat problem. I found two phone cords coming down as you said and then went into a coupler. I replaced both phone couplers and then went to the middle unit. I found two cords coming down but only one phone cord coming from the rear ac unit. The other one is vacant. I replaced that coupler as well. I went on the roof and checked the connections on the boards and they looked shinny and gold no corrosion. I unplugged and plugged them back in a few times to make sure they are making connection. Went down and reset thermostat and still no zone 2. I then ran a new phone cord between the two units and then it wouldn’t work at all. I found out the cords they use for ac are reversed from end end so I’m going to have to cut off one end and flip the plug. Going to have to purchase a RJ11 crimping tool and some ends. I was able to tone out the cables and the two cords in the rear one goes to the thermostat and one goes to the middle unit. I don’t know for sure if both cords are 100% good but I don’t see any visible problems. Picture is middle ac. Could it bo possible the dip switches have been changed? I’m not sure what they are supposed to be. Also where does the Aqua Hot tie into this phone cord?

Wow this is great information. I have downloaded that 2006 wiring diagram but never found that page with both main and sub panel schematics. First thing I am am going to verify is that all the wiring is the way it left the factory and nothing has been moved from one breaker to another. I will then decide based on our usage what I might move. This last trip I had the Aladdin screen on monitoring both 50 amp legs since we were having so many problems and it seems that leg B was constantly at or near 30-40 amps. Leg A was always very low. I could just turn off the middle ac unit and that might solve the problem in fair weather. I also could just run the diesel burner on the Aqua Hot to save amps as well. Anyways I have a lot of investigative work to do. Thanks again for all of the help especially when we were camping. The first few days we were ready to pack up and go home but with advice from the site we managed to get things working again and ended up having a good trip.

Yes at the time that picture was taken i was having issues with the site i was on so i was only running two ac units.

Rick, thanks for the information, it really helped me understand how the inverter sub panel is wired. On those drawings the middle and left are exactly what I have. I do believe I only have a 2000 watt pure sine wave inverter according to the model number. The brochure for 2006 shows standard a 2000 watt and if you go to a residential refrigerator it upgrades to a 2800 watt and 4 extra batteries for this year. I do believe I have a load shedding device just in the one 20 amp leg that others have stated that controls the washer/dryer combo and the rear ac. As soon as I turn on the washer the rear ac turns off and when it’s finished it comes back on.

Thank you for all of the detailed responses to this issue. To answer some questions that Tom asked, I have a Norcold 1200 refrigerator and 4 house batteries and as far as I can tell I have one 2000 watt inverter/charger unless another one is hidden somewhere which I doubt. What I don’t under stand is why I have two 30 amp breakers that say L1 and L2 in the breaker panel for the inverter. The only breaker on the inverter is a little round push button one and that’s it. Also I have a gas stove top. Here is a picture of my one breaker panel. The bottom 20 amp breaker is the middle ac, the two 30 amp breakers are inverter L1 and L2. The very top breaker 20/15 one of them is the front ac and the rear ac shares the washer/dryer. The shedding system seems to be working as It should as I stated earlier in this post because when you turn on the washer the rear ac turns off. I have verified the breakers I have stated above but I need to verify the rest of them.

I have verified in my coach on leg 2 has the middle and rear ac's, washer/dryer, microwave, and all kitchen outlets as well as bedroom sink/vanity area. I have verified that the front ac and 110v aqua hot is on leg1. I just got back from a trip so the next few days im going to try and verify where all loads are. Right now i am thinking of just moving the rear ac to load 1. As it stands now if rear and center ac is on and wife is using blow dryer or curling iron in bathroom and i go to warm a cup of coffee in the microwave......boom fuse blown.

This is a picture of all 3 ac compressors running….two running on leg two and one running on leg one. I have found also on leg two is the microwave and the bathroom so if you turn on the microwave that jumps up about 10 amps and the entire kitchen and all the outlets are on leg two as well for a coffee maker a toaster oven….it just seems crazy that all of that is wired to leg two when two air conditioning units are wired to it. doesn’t seem that the load is balanced well the highest I’ve seen leg one get is about 20 amps. I haven’t investigated all of the outlets yet but When watching the Aladdin I have seen leg two get close to 50 amps many times and leg one 10-20 amps

I checked all the connections and they are all tight inside here is a picture of the inside

I was outside this afternoon and saw one of maintenance guys and told him the problems I was having and he was the head electrician for the state park we are at. He went over to the main distribution panel for a bunch of the sites and found my site breaker was way hotter than any of the others. I only had two ac units running and not much else. He said that breaker was going bad and tripping easier than it should. They ended up moving me to another site that is much nicer and now everything is working fine. Running all 3 ac units and outside breaker and main inside are barely even warm. I did have a bad plug end but also a bad park breaker that compounded the problem. We are with some friends of ours and there Motorhome had one of there two ac units stop working. I went on the roof and found out one of the capacitors was bad. Found one locally and all is good for the ac’s. Then his ice maker started to fill his ice tray and never stopped and flooded his freezer compartment and started leaking down the front of the refrigerator. I went over and shut of the valve feeding the ice maker. This has been quite the adventure this week.

I think the one that ends in RVC is a newer model. I can’t find a manual for a model without the RVC at the end. Mine just says 40250. Not sure of Joules rating it has.

This is the one I have. Not sure if it’s a good one or not.

I ended up finding out how to do a soft reset on the inverter. I tried it one time and it didn’t work then I shut off the AC breakers to it and tried it again and it worked and now everything is back up and running. I’m just baffled as to why my breaker is the only one that blew out of all these people around me in this park I’m hoping it’s just a lazy breaker that’s tripping easy

Everything has been working fine till this morning around 630 all the power shut down I thought the park power had gone out only our pedestal blew the breakers at the main box again I went over to the Magnum inverter and it was flashing red saying there was a back feed problem. Everyone next to me experienced the power fluctuating went out for a split second then came on only I had the issue of the breaker blowing at the main box anyways we got it reset and power back to the coach. Everything is back on and running normally except the inverter is dead and I have this backfeed error I can’t seem to get the inverter to turn on. The green light is off on the inverter and none of my batteries are charging. I have turned the breakers off to the inverter and disconnected the 12 V power cables to it hoping to reset it somehow. if there was a power surge the transfer switch has surge protection built into it it should have stopped it I would think. this is becoming the trip from hell. And my generator wasn’t running and it does not automatically turn on so no back feed from the generator could’ve possibly happened.

Found a new 50 amp plug end installed yesterday and now the plug is barely warm…..huge difference. So I definitely had a loose connection in that plug. Now I’m getting some issues when I run all 3 units. I m trying to get as much info on what’s happening so I can relay it accurately. one thing I don’t understand is when the rear ac is on and we turned on washer/ dryer the rear ac shut down and no breaker was popped. After 10 min the ac tried to come back on but immediately shut back off. We turned of the washer and after a while the rear ac came back on and ran all night just fine. Is there some kind of shedding system?