Georgia Mike

Thanks for the info. Now I know that the Dynasty on up is wired different then others so bypassing it isn’t a good idea. Trust me I do read a lot. I am always browsing over those electrical prints but after a while they all start to look a like 🙂

Great, thanks Tom. I was just about ready to order a new one from an authorized dealer of course but I’m glad you gave me this information. I am going to go back over tomorrow to the storage lot and give one more Hail Mary to make sure this thing is toast or not. Who knows maybe I’ll score a TD

Yes I have two main disconnects at the battery banks but when I turn them both off and go to the salesman switch by the entry door and turn it on all the lights will work and the dash radio, cb and I believe the ac thermostats power up from what I remember. So if I bypass the switch I will never be able to shut those items off. Does someone around the same year or model know if that’s the way theirs works or is something wired wrong? The two rear disconnects do kill everything else like the slides, steps won’t come out, refrigerator won’t power up and so on. I know Monaco wired things differently from year to year so maybe this is the way it’s supposed to be. Everything works fine I was just trying to be proactive In case the salesman switch fails.

Mike, I have the NSA surge brake on my Saturn. It works great and it’s all mechanical. A cable runs through the fire wall and connects to the brake pedal. It’s so easy when hooking up nothing to take out or put in when hooking up. We bought the car with it already installed because the previous owner sold there Motorhome. I would recommend it for sure.

I have been following some discussions lately about the salesman switch and I see a lot of people say to bypass it using the jumper you get at Napa. On my Dynasty when I turn off both disconnects chassis and house I still have power inside to turn on the lights with all the touch pads and the dash radio works as well. I have to turn the salesman switch off to kill those things. So if I bypass the salesman switch those things will never be off and causing more battery drain. On my old Discovery when I turned the two disconnects off everything was dead in the Motorhome. I know that certain safety laws require that the propane and carbon monoxide monitors stay on but I don’t understand why they went to all this trouble wiring up this salesman switch. I don’t see how I can bypass it because I don’t want all this stuff on draining my batteries.

We don’t know what year/model you have but on my 06 I have the Sony monitor and on the face there is an input button that says A,B,C the kids might have changed it.

Yesterday after I did the hard reset and the same error came up on the screen “internal fault-1” I went back outside and tried to do a soft reset by holding the button in until it started to flash. As soon as it started flashing the generator cut off. I went back in and started the generator back up and it was fine but still no ac passing through to anything on the sub panel. Now I did have the remote still plugged in and today I did the hard and soft reset without the generator running with all the phone plugs disconnected but i still got the internal fault error on the screen within 15 seconds or so. I will try tomorrow one last time as you said with Generator running and remote disconnected and do the soft reset but I’m pretty sure it’s going to kill the generator again. That should eliminate the remote panel for sure.

Richard, according to the brochure the 06 Dynasty came standard with a 2000 watt pure sine wave charger/inverter that’s what I have and it’s original and it’s the MS 2012

Thanks Tom for the information. Yes I have checked all the connections in the breaker panels they were all tight and I also ended up replacing one of the breakers that just seemed a little loose. I went over today and did the hard reset on the inverter I pulled the cover off and checked all the connections inside the inverter they were all tight. I checked the grounds near the battery banks and they were tight and clean as well very hard to get to the backside of the cut off switch’s from where they are located in my motorhome but the connections seemed very clean and not corroded whatsoever. I checked all of my batteries house and chassis which are all new in 2020 and all connections were tight and clean and all the voltages we’re good on each individual battery. I also unplugged the three phone cable communication wires to the inverter and disconnected the two main battery cables and clean them and re-terminated them as well. After all that I turned it back on and it immediately went to internal fault again and the internal transfer switch isn’t passing through the voltage as well either because none of the inverter circuits on the subpanel have power when the generator was on Which was the microwave the TVs in a bunch of other outlets were all dead the Air conditioners were running fine because obviously they aren’t on the inverter sub panel. So it sounds like I’m gonna be ordering a new inverter from what I can tell and as you mentioned getting a new magnum remote screen.

I just returned from a 8 day trip. I had no issues with the electrical system at all until about an hour before we were ready to head home. We went to use a toaster and the main park pedestal 50 amp breaker blew. I was surprised because there wasn’t a heavy load at the time. When I reset it there was an error on the Magnum panel saying “ac overload” I reset the Magnum and it was ok but I then noticed the batteries were low 12.3 on one and 12.4 on the other. It would try and charge but after a few minutes it would say internal fault and stop charging. I did notice a few days into our trip that one of the banks seemed low around 12.4 when plugged into shore power. I went over to the Magnum panel and realized I still had it on 15 amps so I changed it to 30 amps. A few hours later they were both around 13 volts so I thought ok good. A couple of days later I noticed again one of the banks was low around 12.2 and I thought it shouldn’t get this low when the charger is on. I kept watching and later in the day it was back up so I don’t know if that’s normal but it doesn’t sound right to me. So now when I have it on shore or generator it starts charging for a few minutes but then stops and says internal error. Another thing is when looking at Aladdin screen it shows 0 amps being drawn on one of the legs but it shows 120 volts on each leg. There is always at least 1 or two amps showing so I don’t understand that at all. I checked the shore outlet and it had both 120 volt legs working. So my question is being since I’ve had all these issues on the trip before and now this do you think my inverter is shot that’s what I’m thinking just wanted everyone’s opinion. 8730910E-FE63-4A4E-B0D0-30A672CB5E67.MOV

I have used Sta-bil diesel additive for over 10 years in my Motorhomes. I used It exclusively in my 5.9 Cummins and always kept a full tank when sitting for long periods. I used the gasoline version for decades in my home generator and lawn equipment and was amazed at how well it worked. I had a generator that sat for over two years during are move from Florida to Georgia and thought for sure it would be gummed up from sitting with fuel in it but it started right up no problem. My old Discovery started right up every time for 10 years no problems so that’s what I am sticking with for my Monaco. I did buy some Biobar JF to add from time to time as well. I think most of the additives will do a good job as long as it states it will remove moisture that’s the top priority for this bio diesel stuff we have to deal with now.

Thanks for that information. That will be a great resource to have.

Thanks for the replies. My salesman is on and it has been working fine since the one time issue. I think what Ivan said about loose connections on the touch pad is where I am going to start looking if I have the problem again. Leaving today on a trip so hopefully I won’t have any problems.

Richard, my interior handles light up as well as the outside so yours should as well since we have the same Coach.

I don’t have hydraulic jacks just the air leaving system. I don’t think it would be a blown fuse since it came on and has been working ok. I did hear that click under the dash so I assume there must be a relay under there that might be lazy or if the pad itself might be going bad. I was just wondering if anyone had a intermittent dead pad and found the issue.

I went over today to bring the Coach home for a trip and on start up the Hwh panel was dead. The air pressure gauges on the dash came up to the correct pressure but the air bags didn’t air up. I pressed the on off button and travel mode many times and nothing. No lights on panel. I restarted the engine and still nothing then I put it in Drive and released the air brake and I heard a click under the dash and the green travel light came on and everything was fine. This hasn’t happened before so Im kind of concerned heading out for a trip. When I got to the house the key pad powered on and off just fine no problems. Has this happened to anyone before…maybe just a rare occurrence?

As long as it is the same amperage I’m sure it will be ok. I think on my Sharp it was a 20 amp fuse.

I don’t know what your exact symptoms are but my Sharp just stopped working…..no power at all. I did a lot of research and found that the capacitor was the culprit a majority of the time. Since it was fairly inexpensive I replaced it which involved taking the unit down but wasn’t that bad. It has worked fine since. There was a small internal fuse that blew originally that I had to replace as well. Convection ovens along with everything else has gotten quite pricey.

On my 3 units there is no air dump it is strictly in intake at the 14x14 openings.

If i am not mistaken the range should be between 15-20 degrees cooler correct? I need to run a test on all my units to see how they are preforming.

I used PVC molding I had already that I got from Home Depot https://www.homedepot.com/p/2448-1-1-4-in-x-2-in-x-8-ft-PVC-Composite-White-Brick-Moulding-0244808012/100077259 And yes that is 1/8 laun I had also. I just used a router to make the groves. I had some felt left over that is used for a base for laminate flooring and that is my sound deadening material. I found spray paint that matched the off white ceiling pretty close from Rustoleum called ivory bisque and that was at HD also.

I was worried it might restrict the air flow some but it’s the same air flow out of the registers when it’s open or closed.

My rear ac in my bedroom is noisy when we sleep so looked at the Wacko Silencer for $200 and I didn’t want to spend that much money so I decided to make one. I looked at some you tube videos to see how it was made and found some scrape wood I had and put it all together and installed it today. I was very happy with how much it reduced the noise by a lot. Here are a few pictures if you want to try and make one.

I had Silverleaf on my previous Motorhome and really liked it. The only thing that was a negative to me is you have to use a windows based operating system and it’s hard wired. Another alternative is a system called Blue Fire. I am looking into buying this for my Dynasty because it’s blue tooth(wireless) and can work off an IPad or Android.

I found this thread a while back and saved it. This company makes door seals for the Norcold 1200 or an other refrigerator. I haven’t had to use them but it’s an alternative. https://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/source-for-refrigerator-door-seals-412632.html