Georgia Mike

I was leaving the campground to return home and after 5 minutes on the road the wipers pulsed one time on there own. It happened about 10 minutes later and when I got on the road I went to activate the cruise control and it was dead. Then I realized all the controls on the smart wheel was dead. The wipers kept pulsing every so often till finally they stayed on so I had to pull over and pull the fuse. I have found quite a bit of information on the forum about this problem and I downloaded the troubleshooting guide. Im not sure on my year Dynasty we’re to start looking for the smart wheel control box maybe someone around this year might know. My symptoms are not having any problems prior to this at all and just suddenly going dead. I found someone that lost controls on one side and another with my symptoms but it was a 2009 with chassis multiplex system. I was wondering I had some work done at Josams and they had to center the steering wheel for me and I wondered if they pulled it off to do this and might have messed up the clock spring. Also I checked the 5 amp smart wheel fuse in the frb and it was good. Any tips would be appreciated and the location of the smart wheel box if anyone knows. Going over today to start troubleshooting

Thanks Ben for the info….makes me feel much better

I replaced my Thomas with another Thomas I found on eBay for less than half the price. The Thomas compressors don’t seem to be very water resistant and dirt resistant. My old one had dirt caked all inside the motor brushes that caused it to fail. When I put the new one on I got some breathable foam and basically incased it to keep the dust and dirt out. Some others on the site have built a box to protect it or even moved it to a different location. Mine has been working fine for over a year. I just recently had a bunch of air bags replaced that were slowly leaking but prior to that the compressor came on a lot keeping the coach level and has worked great.

Did you pull both fuses or just check them in place. I have had many problems similar to yours and ever time I pull the fuses it works fine.

We are on a trip to Vogel state park and the voltage has been steady in the 13.5 range since after the first hour when a plugged it in Friday morning. I’m glad to know that isn’t the original battery sensor. When I got the new Magnum last year it came with a new temperature sensor but I didn’t install it because one was already there so I will do that. It’s seems to do it only on startup for a short time after it has been off and it just concerns me a little because I now how sensitive some of these 12 volt systems are with high voltages. When I replaced the Magnum last year I went through the setup screen very carefully and got all the parameters correct and just rechecked them and I have checked the batteries for any bad cells and they are all good so hopefully changing this sensor will help. I will try and disconnect it on startup next time first. Btw first time to Vogel state park and it is one of the nicest parks I have ever been to but a little tight maneuvering this big beast in here.

Thanks for all the replies. Rocket man asked about the temperature sensor so I went and looked for one but found nothing attached to the batteries. After some investigating I found this wire laying on the bottom of the slide out tray for the batteries. All three ports on the Magnum have phone cords plugged in the yellow one is for the battery temperature sensor so there is a wire leaving there but im not sure what this is. I cut it open and there is two very small gauge wires in the heat shrink that was put on the end. So could this be the temperature sensor put this way from the factory? It looks like it has been here a long time. Also I have all lead acid batteries.

I replaced my Magnum inverter/charger over a year ago and recently noticed a few times the charge rate is up over 15 volts. It happened for a short time when I first plugged in at a site this last trip and today when I plugged it in it’s up over 15 volts. I made sure my solar charging system is off so that’s not an issue. Is this something to be concerned about? 99% of the time it’s at 13.5 or in that range.

We went down to Melbourne this week for a wedding and stopped by Josams to get some maintenance done. I had 3 more air bags replaced and the steering wheel centered and alignment. When we arrived back home I noticed one of the front hub caps was missing so I called Barry to see if they forgot to put it back on. He was very apologetic and said he has told his guys if the tabs are broken don’t put it on. He said just send him the receipt and they would pay for it. I never expected that so I just wanted to share another great experience with them. And my Dynasty never drove so good after the front end work. Also after 5 days at the campground I had 60psi in both air tanks I couldn’t believe it.

As Stephen said yes you use the Norcold controls on the door. I have mine on 3 or 4 I believe 9 being the highest setting as you know I’m sure so it can go much lower. When I had the previous gas coils it was always at 9 and never colder then 20 in the freezer. It says it uses about 11 amps dc from the batteries but that’s both compressors running. When it gets to temperature it only uses each compressor as needed one for the freezer and one for the fridge part. I noticed once it gets to temperature the freezer compressor runs very little but the fridge compressor runs more often mainly because we open that door more often. All in all it’s been a great upgrade as I said.

If your Norcold box and doors are in good shape and your cooling unit is bad I would consider the 12 volt dual compressor from JC refrigeration. I installed one last summer and it’s the best upgrade I’ve done to our motorhome. It works just like a residential and no modifications. It cools down In a few hours and stays 0 in the freezer and 36 in fridge no mater what the outside temp is. https://jc-refrigeration.com/product/norcold-1200-1201-hvac-12v-dc-replacement-unit/

I purchased these Jack stands right after I bought my Dynasty. They are pricey but I feel safe when working underneath. I have never liked those ratchet type stands. When I was in my teens a friend of mine was working on his Mustang and had one slip. Lucky he didn’t get hurt but I never trusted those type again. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GTMIQO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yes there is a dual bank solar charger that is made by Morningstar. I installed this system on my previous Motorhome and my Dynasty now. I don’t know If it will work for you because it’s only for 25 amps max. I only have 200 watts of panels just to keep both banks charged when I’m not using it but could expand to 400 watts max. https://www.morningstarcorp.com/wp-content/uploads/datasheet-sunsaver-duo-en.pdf

I finally finished up my Drag Link replacement. With the guidance of Capt. Dean who did this already I cut a grove down two sides of the crimped on tie rod end. I had to use a 5 foot bar on the end of a pipe wrench and a lot of heat. The other end came off a little easier. Before I took the ends off I laid it down on a sheet of Masonite and traced out a template of the length and orientation. Getting the ends screwed back in was a PITA. I had to have my son help with another cheater bar going the opposite direction. I then welded the one end that was crimped so it wouldn’t move. I have about $150 in it. I know those Drag Links cost about $1600 and what ever Josams charges to install it. Hopefully I will get many miles out of it. If anyone is going to attempt this you have to have a big bench Vise that’s bolted down very well.

The plate on the generator calls for the rectangular fuel filter. My friend ordered all the parts from the info on the generator but it has the round inline filter. He has ordered the round one now. I saw it had the Oetiker Step Ear clamps on there now and was confused why they would use those because it has to be changed. Those type of clamps are used for more permanent installations. You don’t think that hose clamps would work? That fuel line isn’t very high pressure

I am helping my friend with his Onan 8000 QD doing some maintenance. He ordered the fuel filter according to the manual and it’s the same one on my 10k and my previous 7.5k generator. It’s the rectangular one that I have always used so I thought. When I went under and opened the little hatch on the bottom I was surprised to a round in-line filter. The number on the side is 149-234101. When you look at the picture it looks like both ends of the hose is crimped on. I have never run across this type of filter on any Onan before. Does anyone else with an 8000 have this type of fuel filter? I guess you would use small hose clamps or something to change it out?

Would it be possible to make something like this work? It’s .6 inches tall so it’s just under 3/4 and I think you can cut these to the length you want. The only problem is the wires coming out of the one end but might be able to make it work. https://www.ebay.com/itm/165368929710?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=ee_zZfOyRZ-&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=odM01NFXQDC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Matt, I had a Fleetwood Discovery prior to owning my Dynasty and the Discovery roof was very hard like walking on concrete. When I first stepped on my Dynasty roof I noticed it wasn’t as hard but still solid. I was thinking at first like you is something wrong but then realized that’s just how they where made nothing wrong at all.

I have the Essex system

I asked this question when I first got my Dynasty a year ago after I changed that filter on the engine. It is in a terrible location. Laying on your back you can only reach it with one arm no room for your second hand and just barely enough room to get a strap on it to loosen it. When you spin it off it is not a straight shot down you have to turn it sideways to manipulate it out so fuel spills all over you and you can’t prefill the new one for the same reason. I am getting ready to change it again so I bought a disposable bio hazard suit and long rubber gloves to try and stay dry this time. Also the little rubber o ring that goes on first was a loose fit and would drop off before I could get the filter up there a real PIA with one hand. So I am more than interested in finding a way to relocate it to the back or anywhere else for that matter.

If you need to remove or tighten a loose ignition switch bezel this is the correct tool on most of our Monaco’s https://www.ebay.com/itm/68-69-70-71-72-Ignition-Switch-Nut-Tool-Chevrolet-GMC-Truck-Van-C10-398893/204163139916?pageci=5a7fd145-a2aa-4667-b43b-279a7eba423e&redirect=mobile

Man, I didn’t know this could be a real problem. Terry R if you have any info on the actuators you bought that would be great or if anyone else has any information on ones that will work without locking you out. I would like to start replacing them starting at the most critical doors.

Rather than start a new post I thought I would ask my question on this thread. I am in the process of removing my drag link and noticed some leaking on my steering box. It looks like it’s coming from the top because it’s wet down the entire side and it looks like one of the hose fittings is discolored in the picture. I think I will have someone inside turning the wheel back and forth to see if I can find the seepage. Can anyone from the pictures determine if it’s a Sheppards or TRW box?

I went with the the 12 volt dual compressor Amish unit and it has been fantastic. Works just like a residential fridge and cools down in about 2 hours and stays at 0 in the freezer and 36 in fridge consistently. My Norcold 1200 box is in great shape so it was a better choice for me because I didn’t want to deal with removing windows and seats to get new residential in.

I started looking into my starting problem. I checked all battery connections and they were all very tight. I decided to replace the ignition switch since it was fairly cheap. All went well except when trying to spin the bezel back on. It won’t tighten down all the way and seems to bind up but when i have it out of the dash it spins freely. Anyways I know there is a tool to use on these but not sure which one to order. Here is picture of the bezel I have with the three indentations and a couple of different tools I found. Anyone know which one will work? Using a screw driver and hammer is to hard you have to have 3 hands. https://www.amazon.com/3918893-1968-72-TRUCK-IGNITION-SWITCH/dp/B004IWZRJ0/ref=asc_df_B004IWZRJ0/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=390880032701&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4580939133929202231&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1015464&hvtargid=pla-838444879129&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=79833126213&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=390880032701&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4580939133929202231&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1015464&hvtargid=pla-838444879129 https://www.classicindustries.com/product/all-years/chevrolet/chevyiinova/parts/T10010.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4am3w_mo_AIVwxmtBh0ACgtxEAQYHyABEgIJZPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds https://www.zip-corvette.com/60-65-ignition-switch-bezel-tool.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIytaHmfqo_AIV4Rd9Ch1-rgH6EAQYEiABEgLFMvD_BwE

Another member got this monitor and loves it. Im going to upgrade my monitor and am going to get this one or the 10 inch version. The ones on Amazon are not that reliable. https://www.beetronics.com/8-inch-monitor Also. On some Motorhomes the rear camera gets its power from the monitor so in my case I have to get a separate transformer to power the camera