FLynes

Anyone ever have this happen to their coach? I’m thinking liquid nails is in this stove top counter’s future.

That’s what I like about the Weldex, it’s not a fish-eye. I use it more to make sure our Jeep (Sahara) is still attached, when we’re driving….our first trip out we had our other Jeep toad (CJ-5) and the nut on the stinger stripped right off and the ball disconnected…thank God for safety cables and the fact that I was pulling in to a Texaco station when it happened.

Ours was a Weldex B&W from the factory. Thankfully they’re still in business and make a color replacement that was a direct drop-in and plug-n-play.

Sorry, I was extremely busy today and couldn't respond until now. My supply hose for the ice maker, which is a white, opaque plastic line, is located under the fridge, in that furnace intake area, on the left side. There is also a shutoff valve on that line, in that same furnace intake area, which I closed.

Undo the screws to that grille under the fridge (it’s the air intake for the furnace, btw) and you’re going to find lots of ugliness…ours had different colored molds growing.

Our LaPalma layout is different…do you have an air intake grill under the fridge? The Norcold 1200 was an option for our rigs…maybe it had one originally?

Do you have the Norcold 1200 with ice maker? That’s your culprit. Undo the air intake grill under the fridge and you’ll find the shutoff valve there, along with a bunch of mold, probably. That’s what happened to our LaPalma. Same thing with the toilet, lots of rot, because previous owner never bothered to replace the wax ring. Also, unplug the ice maker, once you shut off the water to it. It’s a useless POS and was notorious for not working properly.

Because I'm OCD as hell, and I don't like having wires that go to nothing/serve no more purpose just laying around looking ugly and taking up space. Neat and tidy, as JD said. You should have read everything then. I'm not removing the satellite coax, I'm removing the data cable for an old, obsolete system that serves zero purpose. I have a Dish King Tailgater that I'm installing, so the coax still serves a purpose. As for the CD changer, auxiliary brake, CB, etc, I never once mentioned I was getting rid of any wire behind my dash. While I appreciate the input, reading the entire thread will save you the trouble and effort to type out an irrelevant answer.

I’m in the process of installing the Ready Brute Elite system, which I bought used on eBay, in order to tow our ‘08 JKU Sahara. I’ve already installed the BlueOx BX1126 base plate, which I also bought used on eBay, to the Jeep and it was a breeze, but I did have to buy the nuts and bolts from Tacoma Screw and then weld 14” pieces of wire to the serrated flange nuts, in order to hold them inside the frame…BlueOx provides these nuts with the wire already welded on, which they call “whiz nuts”, with a new base plate but not separately. I’m following the YouTube channel “WeRmudfun” for the ReadyBrake cable installation. Their electrical install is a bit different from mine, though, because they have a ‘17 JK and the brake switch design is newer. It’s been a bit of a learning curve, because I didn’t know that NSA made their tow bars with either steel or aluminum. I learned that fact, when I ordered the clevises for the BlueOx base plate and they didn’t fit on my tow bars; turns out mine are 1-7/8” diameter aluminum, vs. 1-1/4” diameter steel bars. The difference is 6,000lb towing capacity for the aluminum vs 10,000lbs for the steel.

Here's a great link showing how to do it. There's an alternate way, but it involves taking the compressor off of the vehicle and filling it:

I have no idea. When we bought it, there was nothing on the roof, just four coax cables and the other end of that green connector. Whatever was there, though, was pretty big, because the screws are still in place on the roof. Here are the pictures.

Perhaps. I almost wonder if it was a prehistoric satellite modem cable.

I'm in the process of getting rid of extraneous wires in the A/V cabinets and found two wires with connectors that I know aren't original to the coach. This is more curiosity than anything else. I know that the previous owners probably used the blue connector to plug into the TV...I found the other end in the TV cabinet...and use it as a monitor for their computer. I'm guessing the green connector was also for a computer, but what was its purpose? I've looked online but am coming up empty on anything that fits the bill. The other end of the green connector terminates on the roof with a gray 9-pin that's tied together with the satellite coax cables.

You're making too much sense, Craig! 😄

Costco here in ID cuts you off at $100, which was a real pain in the butt for the people behind us.

I think it's a great idea. What would be awesome would be to get Jon Brazel, or someone who was a Workhorse factory guru, to give a class on our chassis, maintenance tips and what can be done to improve it....I bought the upgraded ECM & TCM, as well as the Safe-T-Plus front steering stabilizer and the TigerTrak rear stabilizer...I have yet to install the latter two, but I'm looking forward to seeing the results. My understanding is that Workhorse doesn't acknowledge the W-series chassis anymore, much like REV doesn't acknowledge pre-'09 coaches...the last time I called REV, I was told that that was a different Monaco company, and they have no information to give on those coaches. The other factor to consider is next year's location vs the price of fuel. Two years ago we would have paid less than $150 to fill up from completely empty; the last time we filled up (Costco) I had just under 1/2 tank and it cost us $210. It's not that we can't afford it, it just pains me, every time we go to the pump, to see those numbers. I just read an article this morning stating that the CPI is now at +9.1%. Fuel itself was up 59.9%.

Yeah, that link is different from the style I have. There’s cheaper places to get the ones posted in that second post, since every penny counts in this economy: https://www.ebay.com/itm/284107604459

I didn't pay anywhere near $400....total out the door was $149.90. I bought them from 2KRacing.com

Add in a few Workhorse classes and I bet there would be a lot more people attending.

I’d love to go, but it doesn’t sound like there were any seminars for those of us with the Workhorse chassis.

We have these but with the carbon fiber effect. I had to trim some of the fiberglass to make them fit. They’re okay, but they don’t make me say, “Wow!” and they do get dirt around the housings.