FLynes

I would love to install True Toppers and Seamless Slides, but my budget.....

Hi Martin, Yes, we have the W24 chassis. To answer your questions: 1. A combination of reasons. Koni shocks being more expensive than Bilstein was the biggest reason. Also, I have never had a single issue with Bilstein shocks...I have them on my Jeeps and love them. Finally, Bilstein was what was installed on the chassis, when it was built, and I'm one of those OCD weirdos that likes to keep everything as OE as possible, within reason. While the Koni shocks would have probably been easier to install, since they aren't gas-charged, all of the research I've done says that rigs with Koni shocks ride very soft, and that just doesn't sound like something I want with a top-heavy rig. I will tell you that since installing the Bilstein shocks, I have noticed that things that rattled no longer rattle, when I'm driving. Coupled with the UltraRV Trac Bar and the Safe-T-Plus, it is a night and day difference. 2. The Bilstein shocks I installed were the B6 model. I bought them from www.shocksurplus.com and paid $443.02 shipped for front and rear.

I installed the Safe-T-Plus steering stabilizer and a new set of Bilstein shocks last weekend. The old Bilsteins were installed in 2011. Before I did the Safe-T-Plus install, I ordered a new u-bolt for the passenger side leaf spring, and I'm glad I did. Rather than fight with 18 year-old rusted nuts, I used my zip wheel and saved myself a lot of time & cursing....30 seconds and the old u-bolt was off. The Safe-T-Plus installation was a breeze and took me less than 15 minutes. The Bilstein shocks took a bit longer, but that was because the new ones were a giant PITA to compress into place. I figured that the old ones would have no rebound, but they bounced back pretty fast. Last year I had the alignment done at the tire shop, when they installed the new Michelins, but I was never happy with the results, so I contacted a local shop that specializes in RVs and big rigs and brought it to them for a new alignment and Safe-T-Plus adjustment. They added a caster shim on the passenger side, to counteract the sloping shoulder of the roads. The final result is a MH that rides drastically different than when we bought it, it stays true and straight, and the ride is noticeably smoother and less harsh, which goes to show that even though shocks rebound quickly, they're not necessarily still in good shape. The final alignment numbers are: Front Axle Cross Camber: 0.4° Cross Caster: -0.5° Total Toe: 0.04° Cross Turn Diff. Set Back: -0.01° Rear Axle Cross Camber: -0.2° Total Toe: 0.01° Thrust Angle: 0.03°

Didn't Girard make some of the toppers for our rigs? IIRC, Lippert bought them.

We have the long trucker's gauge, as well as the factory digital gauge we kept from our Range Rover when we sold it...that one stays in the toad Jeep, and both read the same.

The only thing keeping me from installing it is that I know the u-bolt nuts would snap the u-bolts, and I don’t know what size I need, so I’m going to call Brazel’s and order some replacements, just for peace of mind.

I finally got around to installing the Ultra RV UltraTrac bar on our LaPalma. For those of us with W-Series chassis, this is a MUST. I took it for a test drive, and it was very windy….the coach stayed straight, no wiggle whatsoever, and my pucker factor stayed at 0. Next installation will be the Safe-T-Plus steering stabilizer.

Sorry for taking so long to reply, but we’ve been using the motorhome! 🎊🎉🎶 The countertop guy came out and pointed out that the structure underneath the counter was poorly engineered and constructed by Monaco. As such, he didn’t want to waste my money by re-engineering the entire structure. The framework for the cutting board, which sits under the stove, is attached to the face of the cabinetry but is then free-floating the rest of the way toward the wall. The framework for the sliding drawers were also wobbly side to side, so I shored everything up and glued the sunk-in Corian portion, using Liquid Nails, clamped everything together and let it cure for the next 12 hours. The next morning I installed the stove and we left for Joseph, Oregon. I’m writing this five days after our return and I’m happy to report everything is still holding, fingers crossed. In the picture below you can see the free-floating framework of the cutting board. It almost makes me wonder if they were in the process of building it, got called away, and then forgot to finish it.

Thanks everyone for the replies and suggestions. The guy who did the original repair is coming out next Saturday. I’ll post the result.

I completely forgot to follow up on this post.....I contacted a countertop repair place and "The Stone Medics" came out in an old ambulance that had been converted to a tool truck, looked very cool. The guy, former Soldier like myself, has been doing this for several years, was very knowledgeable and friendly and took on the job. He used a two-part epoxy and put everything back together, clamped it with my clamps and we left it to cure for several days. I then reinstalled the stove and added metal strapping underneath, to act as a cradle for the stove and keep the weight from breaking the epoxy seal again. Today I went out to the coach to reinstall the bathroom Moen faucet (rebuilt with a new valve) and saw this:

Camping World sent me the same thing....this was when we had our 1976 Monaco Winchester (Class C)....so I filled the form out anyway, for grins and giggles. I had three different CW salesmen call me, and each one was silent for a few seconds, after I told them the year, and each one hung up on me.

Carey, the clips came in a couple days ago and they look great! Your grandsons thank you cards were class, and I can’t thank you all enough for doing this for us members.

I’m excited to get ours, they look great, Carey!

We bought a cover from Camping World for ours and it fits like a glove, like it was custom made. Yeah, it’s a royal PITA to haul up the ladder, but I had my nephew help me and it wasn’t that bad. We’re down south from you, in Nampa. The Treasure Valley gets some pretty good wind, but the cover stays put, thanks to the bottom straps. Best $863 we spent.

Mine looks like the one Steve P posted. I’d take a pic, but it’s winterized and covered.

Jim, on a side note, how is your box wired? Since I had to get a new one, it came with bare red & black 12v wires.

Carey, they look great!

https://www.rvtravel.com/norcold-shut-refrigerator-manufacturing-rvt-1077b/

Scotty, I am a very patient man. If you can make me 20 of each, I’d be eternally grateful and gladly pay you for them.

There’s a guy on eBay who sells the ones we need. He makes them, they’re labeled Left and Right. He posts a link redirecting you to his site from eBay and charges $23.00/pair, which is insane: https://www.shapeways.com/product/J3PQ6BCJV/left-right-weep-hole-covers?li=shareProduct&optionId=267954978

After realizing that there is a left and right side, I need 15 on each side plus two for the rear….are those a different design?

I didn’t even realize that those things existed, until I actually looked at our rig…I need 30 in black.

No, I completely appreciate it. So far I have contacted five different countertop places in my area and only one has a very slight glimmer of hope… While they will not come out and work on it, the secretary has put the word out to see if any technicians might be willing to do it on their day off as a side job. I’m not holding my breath, but we’ll see.

Denatured alcohol I do have. I'll contact a countertop place tomorrow. Thanks for the info.

I’m one of those guys who, as a kid, always asked why. I’ve never had bad luck with Liquid Nails or Loctite PL Max…does it not adhere properly to the Corian? I definitely see and appreciate the benefit of bracing.