FLynes

I got the quote from my locksmith… If I bring him the motorhome, which I will, then it’s $30 to make an impression and, once that key is made, it’s eight dollars per copy, so my total would be $46 plus tax. That, to me, is well worth the cost of not having to deal with the headache of taking that lock apart, buying some aftermarket POS made in China, and hoping that it will fit and work like my existing lock already does

Well, as simply as I can put it, because the lock works, and I don’t want to screw with it. I just need a key made. It’s not rocket science. Respectfully, I’m done discussing this.

The reverse polarity harness part number from Lippert is 365884. Here's a link where you can buy it. https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Lippert-365884-Wiring-Harness-For-Kwikee-Steps-p/365884.htm

When my locksmith did the exact same thing for our '76 Monaco two years ago, it cost me $70 for two keys and was well worth the price.

No clue, I'm practically nil, when it comes to electrical. I spent the better part of an hour on the phone with the Lippert tech, who walked me through the process of eliminating what it could or could not be. The reverse polarity harness did the trick, and we haven't had a problem with our steps since then.

Tom, there's nothing wrong with the latch/lock assembly, I just need the key made for the deadbolt. I ordered two KS201 blanks and, when they arrive, I'll have my locksmith cut them for me.

Here is the official response from TriMark:

Richard, it's a good idea but, having been in Military Intel and having ZERO faith in humanity anymore, I like to think like a scumbag criminal, and that's probably where I'd look first.

The funny thing about LED bulbs is that they're supposed to be the be all end all to power consumption and reliability, but I can truly say that I've replaced the LED bulbs in our house bathroom more than I ever did with incandescent bulbs. The only down side I can really see to the incandescents, and the reason why I would consider replacing the ones in our coach, is because they get so d*** hot.

Martin, great idea. The next biggest challenge would be to remember where they're hidden, LOL!

Tom, do you have a brand and part number for these LED bulbs? Our LaPalma still has the original incandescent bulbs, and they get hot as hell, even though they still work.

Okay, I have an answer...sort of, courtesy of the winnieowners. The Deadbolt key blank needed for the Trimark 030-0900 lock is the Trimark KS201. The Latch key blank needed is the Trimark KS101. I just ordered two KS201 key blanks and will have my locksmith cut them. The only thing that the lock itself has on the inside is the part number of the lock itself, there are no key codes inside. I don't yet know if the "1P" that's etched on the Latch keyhole will help the locksmith or not. If it doesn't, then he'll do what he did with our 1976 Monaco and cut them the old-fashioned way.

Thanks, Tom. The only code on the lock is “1P”, but it’s on the latch keyhole, not the deadbolt keyhole…here are pics.

Tom, I’m supposed to have three keys, like Martin has. Please read my above response to you.

Harry, you are a man after my own heart. I was raised that a clean engine is a happy and healthy engine. When I was a young Soldier, my unit had Gama Goats, and mine had the cleanest, leak-free Detroit 3-53. Same thing, when I was a UH-1 crewchief. Every time I take any of my vehicles to the dealer for maintenance, everything gets thoroughly washed. It’s been my experience that mechanics put forth a little more effort, if they don’t have to get filthy in your engine bay. My mom, who was a realtor, always said that you can always tell how clean a person’s house is by how clean they keep their car.

I no longer have FB....got rid of it five years ago, and it's the best thing I did for my mental health. In fact, the only social media I have is this site and the Jeep Forum, which I'm rarely on these days. I'll call Brazel's on Monday. Come to think of it, was the 2nd battery a Workhorse option or a Monaco option?

Tom, No, I have two different Trimark keys, one a 2001 for my bay doors and a 1091 for my main door "pull" latch. The 2001 key does fit into the deadbolt but it will not turn the lock. The main door lock is, per Trimark's website, part #030-0900 and is not electric in any way, shape or form. The only code is located on the bottom keyhole and it says "1P". I'll call Trimark on Monday and see if they can help, per your suggestion. Here's a pic of the latch and keys, which does not match up at all with the original pic I posted, sorry about that....between what I think I remember it looking like and what it actually looks like are two different things.....five concussions and a heart attack have really swiss-cheesed my memory....I've removed the pic I posted in my first post. on edit: Tom, if you would, please, change the latch model in my title to 030-0900, instead of TM500...the TM500 is the bay latch model, not the main door latch.

For those of you Workhorse owners who have the optional 2nd chassis battery, where is it located and would you please post a picture of it? I’d like to add one to our W24. I think I know where it’s supposed to go, but I’d like to be sure. Thanks.

Okay, so I'm missing a key it would seem. Next question, there is a code that is only printed on the bottom keyhole...do I use that code to have a new key made for the deadbolt, or do I just have a locksmith cut a blank, using the deadbolt lock itself?

Is the baggage lock key supposed to lock the deadbolt (top keyhole) on the main door? I ask, because, while the baggage key does fit into the deadbolt keyhole, it will not turn, and I only have two Trimark keys. The bottom keyhole locks just fine with the key I have. The other key, the baggage key, does lock all of my baggage doors.

Tony, when you get yours, do a VIN scan...I'm curious how yours turns out. When I scanned mine, it showed up as 1GTJK33G34F202522, which is a 2004 GMC Sierra 3500. I wonder if it shows up like that, because I have the upgraded ECM and TCM from Brazel's RV.

Martin, I would recommend you buy this gauge, as it is some thing all Monaco owners should have…I believe the one for DP owners is the ScanGauge D. The reason that neither Workhorse nor Monaco included more gauges is because they were too cheap and wanted to save money. Personally, I don’t know why I didn’t buy this sooner.

I love Amazon…

If anyone is curious, the LaPalma does NOT have them either. I was curious about this, after going up on the roof several weeks ago, and noticing that I was leaving somewhat muddy tracks on our white aluminum roof. I suppose Monaco figured that it was easier for the water to shed off of a radius roof, than it is to take the risk of a drain tube clogging, which makes sense. Funny enough, our 1976 Monaco Winchester (Class C) DID have a drain tube, and it was clogged when we bought it.

You bet! Kevin is a great guy and is incredibly knowledgeable about the Workhorse chassis models. As a matter of fact, I took my own advice and just bought one, using Kevin's Amazon link. It'll be here tomorrow.