Gweedo

Update all finished: So I believe it contained hydraulic fluid based on the smell and fell. I broke loose the two lines at the steering box and allowed it to drain over night. Then I used air through the return line at the reservoir to blow out residual. Blew air through pressure side but could not get it to come out the other end, so rather than pushing the limit and not wanting to take a chance on damaging the power steering/seals I elected to flush with trans fluid. I re-attached the lines at the steering box, then removed the return line (the smaller of the two) from the bottom of the reservoir and zip tied it to keep it pointed down into a bucket. Filled reservoir 1/2 way, had a buddy start the engine for a few seconds and watched the fluid go down to make certain it was the pressure side. Shut off engine, filled again started engine and kept pouring until the ATF fluid pushed out all the original oil. Did a few more quarts for good measure. Filled up the reservoir, installed filter and ran up to temp while checking for leaks. All is good. My system is a smaller reservoir with one filter: Nelson 84365a or Baldwin PT951. I prefer Nelson because there are at least a 3rd more holes I used Transynd 668: Total was 3 1/2 quarts, I flushed the system with 4 quarts of a cheaper brand (not much) that is compatible with Transynd. Air pressure: I used about 30lbs PSI, with a rag over the tip to prevent moisture from entering the system, put a rag at the other end to prevent blast of fluid After filling I ran up to temp "Before" turn the front wheels side side twice, this helps bleed trapped air. Get a friend to assist. I received a lot of good advice (on the forum and PM) from everyone, took a little from each and I was successful. Simple DIY just make certain not to run the system dry! Air is your enemy!!! Thanks for all of the advice, I really appreciate it! Safe travels..

Lmao Actually feels n looks more like hydraulic Two line from the reservoir lg n small looks like they go to pump the one into steering box n back to reservoir. Anyone know which is low pressure side. I have a 50% chance of being right.., lol just don’t want to get blasted.

Gotta laugh I guess, went back to check manual, one paragraph says filled with 15-40 at the factory very next paragraph say check level and top off with Dextron aft.

Okay gotcha, did my trans last year. thnx

Hey thanks for sending the info. just picked up 4-gallons of 668. how much did you use? how did you flush yours, I think your system is much larger than mine.

Thnx, I used transynd in my trans n I believe that was #295, I'm seeing 668 now. Good idea on using less expensive to flush, not sure how much the entire system holds so I will buy a 5-gallon bucket and replace the filter again after flushing. I guess I'll go with the 668, it's the same thing but only better now.

Moderator EDIT This new tooic was just a “follow up” or what the OP decided to do. It had to be edited and then merged with the original topic. FOR ALL MEMBERS INFORMATION…. PLEASE do not create a NEW TOPIC. Use the original. Doing the housekeeping to tie the two topics together so there is one cohesive discussion is cumbersome and creates extra work for the staff. THANKS END of EDIT. …..Good morning, I recently posted a question regarding the type of oil I have in my power steering unit and I received a lot of great info. However in light of this info and not knowing for certain if I have engine oil or hydraulic oil, and, the fact I added several ounces of oil to the system and possibly contaminating the system, I have decided it's best to transition from oil to AFT just in case. Tom Cheery furnished a lot of info and Frank McElroy has furnished me with some very good advice on draining and a lot of other important info to consider, thank you Frank and Tom. I am wondering if anyone has done the transition, about how much fluid it took, what filter you used and how you drained the system. my reservoir is 8" tall with two lines coming off the bottom, I do not see a spin on filter and I have a rear radiator. Thanks, Guido

I agree with, I only have one filter. And even the filter looked really good, light shined right through it. I'm letting the filter drain so I can get a good look at it. I will do my best to get a definitive answer on which fluid was used. At the very least I will contact some reputable shops and get their opinion. Thanx again for the info I'll take all I can get.

I am not swapping out the steering box yet, when I/if I do I will do what is required. As for the photo that is what I have, prior to changing the filter I looked at the oil and it looked like new. Normally because I am annal I would change out all the fluid, but we are leaving and don't have much time. so I gloved up and replaced just the filter and topped off the fluid cold. Hope this helps clear things up. If it is hydraulic fluid and if the system is 3.5 gallons, I don't think a few ounces of oil will hurt it, at least I hope not. I don't know if there is something out there that can tell the difference between the two. Thnx again

That is awesome, thank you! I very much appreciate everyone's response. the switch out info couldn't be better. going to see what I have this morning. If we decide to keep it (probably will) I will switch it out. I noticed a bit more sea saw last couple trips.

awesome thnx

Thank you guys for the info, now I'm a little more concerned just in case. I did some research on the vin decoder, it was built in Elkhart, Tom mentioned a nelson filter which I took out and replaced with a Baldwin filter, the only difference was the nelson had rubber on the endcaps and Baldwin were thinner gasket type material. I have the build sheets and nothing states anything about the steering or hydraulic system. Is there a website for this info? Not a problem if I have to drain the entire system but I need to do it before our trip next week. If it's oil then I'm good, if not...well you know. So now I'm going off where it was built and the info provided by the Rev grp. I certainly do not to contaminate the system!!!! Not sure how much the entire system holds, but I am estimating I added 5-6+ ounces of 15-40 TRW steering box, I have seen this mentioned several times, how do I determine what steering system I have. The whole reason behind this endeavor (pardon the pun) was to change the filter I didn't know I had, and I could feel a slight jerking on the wheel, the fluid was down to the add line. I've owned this for several years so I know it hasn't been changed. Thnx

Thnx Tom, I read numerous threads on this, they are all over the board, atf, hydraulic and oil, which why I called the Rev group. The person I spoke with furnished me the pdf which calls for 15-40 oil. Now, when I opened the canister and removed the filter, my first thought was, it's regular oil, and smelled like oil and that was before Rev grp responded. One of the tech's there also worked for Roadmaster back then and remembered it being oil. So I was comfortable toping it off with the 15-40, probably about 5-6 ounces. I let it run for a bit and no noise or leaks. Below is the email I received... According to the attached (see pages 14-15 for the Endeavor) – this would have 15W40 engine oil in the hydraulic fluid reservoir. I did confirm this with one of our technicians who used to work in the Roadmaster plant back then. Hopefully that helps! Best Regards, Denise Tucker Senior Administrative Specialist REV Recreation Group PRIOR TO JUNE 2009, THE AMERICAN®, FLEETWOOD®, MONACO®, HOLIDAY RAMBLER®, BEAVER®, SAFARI®, McKENZIE®, AND R-VISION® BRANDS OF RECREATIONAL VEHICLES AND THE ROADMASTER® AND MAGNUM® BRANDS OF CHASSIS WERE OWNED AND MANUFACTURED BY OTHERS. FOR CONVENIENCE, WE MAY OCCASIONALLY PROVIDE PRODUCT BROCHURES OR OTHER INFORMATION ABOUT THESE OLDER PRODUCTS THAT WE ACQUIRED FROM THE FORMER MANUFACTURERS. THESE DOCUMENTS ARE NOT UPDATED, APPROVED, OR MAINTAINED BY REV RECREATION GROUP. THEY MAY CONTAIN MISTAKES OR BE INCOMPLETE.

Rev group got back to me quick, calls for 15-40. They sent a pdf I’ll attach for all 2007 models with all lube points n maintenance charts. 2007 Roadmaster Lube Guide.pdf

I appreciate the response. Now just trying to figure which oil goes in. Definitely not dextron in there. Sent an email off to rev group

Thnx.

How do I get the lid off?? I’m assuming it just pops up but it’s stuck on pretty good. I got it off thnx

Hello all trying to replace power steering filter. Looked under tip but it’s different. HD. Center bolt and level check. Tried pulling up on the lid, nothing. Tap gently with hammer nothing. Don’t know if this ever been off. Notice a bit of jerking on the wheel. Fluid is low. Anyone take this lid off before?

I normally use the auto, tried the manual once and the coach looked like a pretzel, why the windshield didn't pop or break is beyond me. Apparently i did something wrong. I think i need to recalibrate, sometimes one or two won't retrack quite all the way, could be the adjuster but I think I'll do the leveling procedure first. I park, slide out, dump and level, any other way and one basement door will just hit the slide, I had the slides adjusted. Thanks DennisZ for posting the level procedure.

I have used all of the above and in MHO their okay. I have off road toys and boats and been turning wrenches for a while now. I used the above listed until a friend (master mechanic IMO) turned me onto to a product called HELIX. It's referred to carb rebuild in a bottle. It boosts octane by 2 and if you add extra you can store fuel up to two years. Safe on seals. I put this in all gasoline engines, super charged outboard boat motor, log splitter, snow blower, dirt bikes, UTV's MC Etc. zero problems staring a year later and never a fuel related issue. Keeps everything clean. Example: take your dirtiest jet and place it in a cap, put a few drops of Helix and gas, let it set over night and you will have a pristine jet on the morning. Take a sputtering motorcycle, put in fresh gas with Helix and let it run, you will hear it clear up. Just thought I'd share the info as another option, I don't sell it, just a strong believer in the product. Helix Racing Products 5-in-1 Fuel Treatment - 700604500837 Eliminates water from fuel systems Works with 2- and 4-stroke engines Revitalizes old gas Boosts octane by up to two points Stabilizes fuel for up to two years Cleans injectors, carburetors and fuel system components Alters burn chemistry for more complete combustion Proprietary formulation of complex organic bio-based (green) compounds Regular use results in more power, better mileage and a cleaner environment Treats 16 gallons 8 fl. oz. bottle

From Shell Oil. FYI. DEBUNKED: 5 COMMON MYTHS ABOUT SYNTHETIC DIESEL OIL Synthetic oil allows all parts of your engine to work together and protect it from damage and failure. There are several preconceived notions about engine oil that are not correct, Shell Rotella is here to help you separate fact from fiction. 1. You can’t switch back to mineral oil after using a synthetic oil Switching back to conventional oil from synthetic is absolutely safe. You can change from the 5W-40 synthetic oil you used in the winter to a 15W-40 conventional oil in the spring. We offer Shell Rotella T4 15W-40 conventional oil and Shell Rotella T6 15W-40 full synthetic if you want the added benefits of synthetic oil technology. “During colder months, it's a good idea to switch to a lower viscosity oil – in this case, synthetic oil – to provide improvements in engine stability,” explains Karin Haumann, OEM Technical Manager for Shell Lubricants. Haumann adds: “Because a synthetic oil can meet the same OEM specification as a conventional oil, the question is, are you willing to relinquish the inherent benefits a full synthetic product can give you?” With the proven benefits of synthetic, you can use it in your engine all the time. 2. Synthetic oil is too expensive While synthetic blend and full synthetic oils may cost more upfront, the benefits they provide make them worth the investment. “The benefits Shell Rotella® synthetic motor oil provides in terms of engine protection, longer oil drain intervals, and equipment durability over the lifetime of the engine easily outweigh the cost,” said Haumann. Shell Rotella® T6 Full Synthetic engine oils provide protection that can save money with enhanced fuel economy capability, without compromising engine protection or durability. Key performance and fuel economy benefits of synthetic include: Lower oil consumption to help reduce maintenance costs Increased protection against oxidation for increased fuel economy Excellent corrosion control to help protect key engine parts Low Ash formulation for emissions system compatibility 3. Only newer engines need synthetic oils Synthetic engine oils are designed to provide improved protection for a range of extreme working conditions in new and older engines. Whether you’re stop-and-go driving or working in freezing cold or desert heat, synthetic engine oils are designed to: Improved engine protection Promote engine cleanliness Keep operating temperatures cooler Lubricate the engine quickly when starting in cold weather If your engine is designed for higher performance that will put higher stress on the engine and the oil. It’s best to have a synthetic oil that's better at withstanding that stress. “It’s well known that synthetic products can protect engines better than conventional oils,” says Haumann. “Most new vehicles require a XW-40 or lower synthetic blend type oil because it improves startability in heavy-duty engines and offers real advantages in fuel economy.” 4. You can't change brands of engine oil As long as the specifications and approvals of the new oil meet what is required by your engine’s manufacturer, you can switch between brands with no issues. Though several brands of oil may meet the same industry and OEM specifications, they often have different performance levels. Shell Rotella® offers a complete portfolio of synthetic and synthetic blend heavy duty engine oils that are suitable for virtually all modern low-emission heavy duty engines and older hard working diesel engines. With its wide range of specifications, and approvals from many of the world’s leading engine makers, the oils are an excellent choice for on-highway fleets, general haul, construction, agriculture, public-transport operators and diesel pick-up trucks. Drain the oil and you can change brands. Shell Rotella meets or exceeds current CK-4 and other standards 5. High viscosity oil is best With Shell Rotella T5 10W-30 synthetic blend, you get the strong wear protection of a 15W-40 with the added benefit of fuel savings.1 In addition, Shell Lubricants has introduced Shell Rotella® T6 10W-30 full synthetic heavy duty engine oil, which provides the benefits of a full synthetic engine oil in the fastest growing viscosity grade for diesel-powered vehicles. The versatile oil offers fuel economy benefits and excellent engine protection for hard working trucks. Shell Rotella® T6 full synthetic engine oils provide protection that can save money with enhanced fuel economy capability, without compromising engine protection or durability. The oils also perform extremely well in heavy duty diesel engines even in extreme temperatures, meeting and exceeding industry performance standards. Shell Rotella® T6 15W-40 Full Synthetic is for diesel engine drivers that prefer the higher-viscosity but still want the benefits of synthetic technology. See Shell Rotella Products

Amazon didn't show one so I ordered from another company, 843 297-8348|info@rockerswitchpros.com . Now when I have a moment I'll pull the switch and order a new one. Thnx info@rockerswitchpros.com

Mine just started messing up. The dash starts the gen but won't shut it down. I am assuming its a bad switch. Mine is a 8K on an 07 HR. You think it's the same switch as mentioned above? Or do I need to remove it first. thnx Regarding the tool, there are diff makers but they appear the same. does it matter which tool? Is this tool just to get the face off or removal from dash? does a new switch come with the face or do I use the old one. thnx

Good stuff, put that in mine!! runs cooler

I'd put a good stiction cleaner in there with the new oil, I use the Secret Hotshots and their FR3 on the future oil changes W/O stiction cleaner. I also use their Diesel Extreme every 6K miles in the fuel and I use their Everyday diesel on each fill up. Many brands to choose from. FWIW I run full synthetic Amsoil in the motor and Genny, I use to run the Rotella T5. Congrats on the rig! Safe travels