Gweedo

Sorry I don't know how much room you have, but one of the tricks is to SHOCK around the bolt with a heavy duty punch/hammer. If need be cut the punch down, soak the stud with KROIL lubricant. Then try a LEFT HAND drill bit, slowly drilling it, heat and shock works a lot of times and when I used to turn wrenches, more times then not the left hand bit worked best. Many like already listed above work as well, but the left hand bit can go deep and you never know when its going to grab. Just go slow, you are not trying to dill it out you're trying to get it to grab. I replace those bolts with new most of time with a very small amount of oil, the oil won't change the torque value. Good luck, that jobs sucks!!!

Performance Tool Stud Extractor - W83203 Part # W83203 Line: PFM 3.9 out of 5 stars. Read reviews for average rating value is 3.9 of 5. Read 39 Reviews Same page link. 3.9 (39) Write a review Ask a question Check Vehicle Fit $22.99 Each

We use Irish spring in bays, mothballs at the tires AND since we are plugged in to shore power, I use a heavy paper plate, cut a slit in it to the middle n slide it of the electrical cord cutting off their bridge to the rig. The mice can’t get around the plate, it a trick we use on our houseboat.

Mine kept blowing the fuse. they replaced the compressor, the fuse kept blowing. the short was in the condenser fan motor. replaced fan nor more problems with the fuse

Silicone is NOT over rated. When I had my hoses replaced I used silicone on any one we could, less worries for me anyhow.

Exactly, I am pretty mechanically inclined and back in the day I managed an automotive shop. To this day I still do all of my own work because of the trust issues, unless it's something beyond my capability (still learning about diesel) or covered by warranty. I'm not knocking all shops, there are some very reputable shops out there, it's a matter of finding the right one.

When I had my turbo replaced they put in the green stuff, the wrong stuff because I went from an average of 182 degrees to 192. I went to the OAT, I flushed the system 3-times. Now I run 179-180. You will probable never have to change it again.

You have worked for retirement, everyday is a Saturday except SUNDAY! I retired several years ago at 55 and never looked back. Having too much fun doing whatever whenever. Each morning when I wake up I thank the lord. Many great ideas previously mentioned, lots to think about. With all the knowledge the other guys have on this forum he doesn't need training. Good luck on whatever endeavor (not the motor home) you choose.

I wonder what he charges. I have seen others for $400+ mine looks good but it would be nice to know. Thank you

Thank you for the responses and tank info. Not sure where the hoses go but I will soon. Going to replace them as well since I'm in there. These were supposed to be changed 6-years ago when I asked to have every single water hose replaced.

Yeah no clamp on it, I'm sure the fitting is leaking because it turns easily. I'll cut it tomorrow and see what's what. The hose doesn't have much play to it. I'll probably get in there and put on a new hose as well. I just wanted make certain I wasn't going to do something to the tank. Thanks, enjoy the weekend..

Good evening all, Just wondering if any of you dealt with this fitting before. My Rad overflow tank is seeping out of the front screw and one of the top fittings. the top fitting has a yellow ring around it, just wondering if this is something special before I rip it off. Already re-sealed the front one. Thanks! And Happy Memorial weekend to you and a special thanks to all of the Veterans!!!!!!!!!

What are you drilling into? what is the rivet grabbing onto? any electrical to worry about? thnx again

Great video, one question. You said the caulking is very sticky, about how much time do you have to clean the excess off the coach. Thanks for the video

Okay gotcha, I had my chassis AC unit replaced 5-years ago, last year I had to add freon, took a little while but it got cold. I'll see how it is next month. They didn't want to replace the long AC lines, but everything else was. Probably have a slight leak somewhere. So is it safe to assume if the above mentioned valve is replaced, the system needs to be evacuated and recharged? Thanks for the info.

What are the signs that it is bad?

Good morning, I am not electrical Guru but this is what I found and how I repaired it. I was losing voltage and you can clearly see how corroded the connector was. I hollowed out the connector and eliminated it. I kept the connector and wired the wires directly through. If you choose to do this, try and cut the wires at different lengths, this will avoid trying to fit all the wires AND new connectors in the small opening of the connector to the MH. This made a difference but it was still slow, the motor isn't very big. I agree the wire should be larger, but that is a tough run. Good luck!

When mine wouldn't flush, I used the air fitting I used to use when I winterized, lowered pressure to 30PSI, couple short blasts and it opened right up, two minutes. Put in some Purogene and started using Borax to help keep it clean, been good for two years thus far.

A little late to the party but I have a question. so I read through all of the threads regarding the use of the exhaust brake and lubing them. Some have a 3 position button, a Foot button?, and an on/off button like mine. Mine is a 07 isl400, cummins care says I have engine compression braking, so I attached a photo of the e brake. If I slightly lift up on the accelerator the engine lightly brakes, I take my foot off completely and it goes into major engine braking until I step on the accelerator. is this different front the foot button?. not sure if mine works while on cruse but I am going to try it n see and I have never noticed of the gear display changes but I'll look. Regarding lubing the ebrake, I would have to take the shaft off in ordered to lube it, it will not move otherwise. I have absolutely no issues and it works great. I have never lubed it but after reading the threads I bought the lube. Are you taking it apart to lube it? Thnx

I would love to have these, I don't have any and haven't had any in the 7 years of owning the rig, never knew they existed. Be great to get rid/lesson wind noise. The silicone on each to keep in place is a great idea. I don't know how much these sold for, (assuming they fit an 07 HR) but if anyone purchased extras and plans on using the silicone idea to keep them in place, and is willing to part with some I'll pay dbl what you paid +shipping. 16 R/S and 20 L/S total of 36. Or if someone else is making them please let me know. BTW the you tube video to strengthen them is a great simple idea. Thanks!!!

Here is the answer. The hydraulic cannister is in the rear compartment next to the dip sticks. My manual says "filter" so I am assuming its one. The manual shows the Nelson 84365a, which crossed over to a Baldwin PT951, so I ordered one of those.

sounds good, especially at twice the price. I'll plan every years, thnx

I replace the dryer filter yearly with the trp filter. But after reading some threads I’ll change to the Wabco because it is also a coalescing filter.

cancel the request I found it on the diagram. thnx

The last couple trips I noticed a very slight (for a lack of a better term) a rubbing or grind on the steering wheel, only when driving straight with slight movements on the wheel. anyhow I was reading the the manual and it says the hydraulic filter in the engine compartment should be changed periodically and the fluid level checked. anyone know where this filter is located? thnx