Gweedo

ok i saw the fitting with the line, so pull the line and unscrew fitting or just pull the line. I'm assuming they are push connectors

I don't recall seeing drain fittings on my tanks. I'll look again. I was under the impression they drained through the release valves.

Okay all is well, you got me too curious, I muddled my way out there, filled the tanks, emptied them and it started with no issue!! go figure. in front I have two valves see attached. I filled the tank the other day with the top one. What is the bottom one for tow truck? regarding the drains, I drained the two valves in the picture and the rear tank.

I'll try to answer what I can from all of the above. batteries have no issues. wait start went off, all lights came on, regarding the 30lb, that is what I manually put in to see if it would start , I didn't want to put in too much air. I am down with an illness right now, when I feel up to it, I'll run the rig get it to full air and drain the tanks again to see what happens. I'll also get a picture of the starter. I know my manual says I can add air, I just don't want to screw anything up, especially since I have never in 7-years drained the tanks. where would I look for the third purge tank?

I am down for the count with the C illness, I'll send a pict as soon as I get some energy up

No, not a sound when I turn the key just all the dash lights. p=Pretty unlikely the PO did anything to it. I realize others can start theirs with no air, but it doesn't change the fact I couldn't I have been really low on air before and didn't have any issues, not until I manually emptied the tanks.

I have the manual and I have read that section. I opened all the valves, no moisture. as stated it would not start when one tank was empty until I added air. same thing on the rear tank. I am able to add air per the manual. You guys know more than I, but all I know is it started once I manually charged the system. the chime is normal, but I don't recall being completely out of air

So I emptied both tanks and zero moisture. The dash said low air. The no start was fixed after I put manually put air in the tanks. so its good I only put in about 30 lbs, then the engine started and the compressor filled the tanks like normal. you are right it says not to do that, crap, i'll run it and make sure nothing went wrong. I thought maybe it was a safety because of low air. I am wondering if because we live in the arizona heat I don't get moisture. In my manual it says the air system can be charged from an external source. so I think i'm okay. I'll have the wife test drive it..LOL

I opened the front air drain, zero moisture came out. tank is empty but now i have a no start, dash says low air. do I manually put air in or? should i have had the rig running? Looks like i can add air from the front air supple fitting. I'll go try that

I'll look thanks

First I want to say you guys are the BOMB. I've had my rig for 7-years, always went onto IRV2 for info (n still do) until I came across this site. IRV2 is a great resource but I am impressed with the wealth of instant knowledge on Monacoers! So since you are on the air tank subject I have a question please., or am I suppose to start a new thread. Reading through the threads I see you empty your air tanks of water, I have never done this. I was under the rig doing a lube yesterday and I didn't see what appeared to be a drain valve on the air tanks. In looking at the pics above I don't see one unless it's the fitting with a line attached? or do I need better glasses. Thanks

Thank you guys, I do have the hughes autoformer. I'm so dizzy now I think I may get vertigo, lol. I have basic knowledge of electricity so I understand what you are saying and I really appreciate the responses. When it comes to the rig I error on the side of caution since everything is so sensitive. If it gets to hot at the river I'll just float with another beer, that always works. I hope to tackle the GFI issue I spoke about on another thread soon. Have a GREAT day!!

Thank you for the responses, I talked to one guy at the river who had another 20amp outlet on his pole, most do not have them. he said he made an adapter/pigtail that he plugged into the 30 amp and 20amp to create a 50amp service into his coach. As stated in prior threads I'm not an electrical dude by any means, I don't think I want to try his set up.

I had the Centramatics installed front and rear with new Toyo M171, time will tell. Thanks everyone for the info..

?, I have two ac's, the place we go to at the river only has 30amp on the shore and 50amp 100 yards from the shore. Since we take our boat we like to be near it on the shore. The outside temps range from 105-120 (we don't go after 105) When the park is full the volts drop to 104-108, so I use the Hughes Autoformer to boost the volts up. Can these easy starts be used in order to run two ac's? or can I install one and run both? Our coach is an 07, Ac's work great but it would be nice to have two ac's during these temps. If installed, do you use the same thermostat system? I thought about the newer 15000? ac units, but I hear they are loud, and I don't think that would change anything on a 30amp. Pros cons, thanks!!

No need to reply, no worries, it's not the $20 it the time frame. I'm just going to order the dynabeads based on the advise here, I trust the advise here more than a tire shop. The toyo M144 are extremely hard to get going with the M171 instead.

has anyone tried the tempered glass beads? I see dynabeads are ceramic. two tires shops I called use the tempered glass. not much of a price diff except dyna needs to be ordered plus $20 in shipping.

Kroil is my #1, has never let me down. currently rebuild a ford 460 on a 76 pick up I'm restoring, been parked for 21-years, soaked everything in Kroil, no issues. There are several I'm sure work just as well, but being old school, well you know the rest.

I had mine resurfaced 4-years ago, make sure you use new bolts as these are torqued. It's a very doable job but a couple tough spots. Put some penetrant on the bolt the night before, when removing bolts use a wrench/rachet (Not an impact) and slowly loosen, then back towards tight then loosen, back and forth a few times until you feel the bolt is free enough to be removed. TAKE YOUR TIME you don't want to snap a bolt! You can take your manifold to a machine shop to see Far far out they are, contact Cummins and see what the safe parameters are for resurfacing. Sorry I don't recall what mine was but it was a lot. hope this helps.. oops sorry, OEM when it comes to these types of parts,

THANK YOU Tom, I will absolutely do everything you listed when we return home next week. Just one clarification, behind the fridge I have one outlet, one is marked gfi, at the end of the day does the Samsung stay plugged into the gfi side or non, I am very mechanically inclined and have some electrical knowledge but more of a dunce when it comes to electrical and not afraid to admit it. thanks again!!!!!! I’ll absolutely let you know how it turns out

Trying to wrap my head around this entire issue everyone is talking about. You referenced board and remote. Are these two different items? When I unplug from shore my GFI pops, I have to reset it three times before it stays on the inverter. In the meantime my Samsung has to be reset making sure the ice maker is off. Shouldn’t go straight to inverting without interruption of power. Thnx

Okay great advice thank you, so I’m assuming you beaded all wheels not just the front. Saw some posts where they didn’t do the rears , I think I’d rather do them as well. thnx again

Thank you for all of the responses, sounds like the right beads are the way to go. Thank you for the chart Twomed, I’m going to reference this with the tire shop. Did you also put beads in the duals? My shop can’t get the Tokyo M144 which so I’m gonna have to go with the M154 unless I can find them and bring to them. They only balance with beads, just need to make certain they have the correct ones,

Good morning all, I'm about to purchase the Toyo M144 most equivalent my now 7=YO Michelins. My question is, the tire shop said they use "bead" balancing. I hadn't heard of this process until I spoke with a buddy. I guess he has an issue with one wheel every time he fills with air, apparently a bead becomes lodged in the stem not allowing it to seal. He's got to try over n over until he gets it. Have any of you had the bead balancing in place of the normal weighted balancing, isues/no issues with the stems or tire wear? Thnx

Thanks for the response. so it is the GFI itself that pops. drove off to get the tire looked at (which they won't touch since its 6-years old btw) I ran the genny for 4-hours. While driving I had my wife shut down the genny. went onto the inverter and it popped 5-seconds. left it off for ten minutes until I got home. with the engine off I reset the gfi and it stayed on, I started the engine and it stayed on, I turned off the engine and it stayed on. I thought maybe a loose wire, but it did it this morning while stationary.. we leave in the morning so I'll see how it goes. also I looked for a breaker for the micro, couldn't find one or a fuse for it. all I see on is the micro timer, tv power and fridge