Tom Cherry

google ratings motor home repairs elkhart in
 

OK…CUT AND PASTE THE ABOVE INTO THE  GOOGLE SEARCH BAR.

Look at the screen shot below….that is what popped up.

from there, you can click on each one….read the reviews, including dates.  Note the rating stars and number.

I did see similar information on one shop previously mentioned with “a critique’.  The Google ratings were 2 stars or so and comments were not “good”.

As a Moderator, it is a tightrope for a question like yours.  I used a search technique that i frequently use to get supposedly current and valid information….not PERSONAL experience.  Likewise, I found certain information that supported a previous post.

THAT is my “weasel” text.  Real world, if interested, example….There are ways if you persevere….to get information.  You have to decide.  

I once was a Trustee on our church board.  A roofer came by and guaranteed us a new roof….he said he was a “door knocker” and he knew there had been a hail storm.  His free inspection report for our insurance carrier said total tearoff and replacement.  He had asked what our deductible was.  He knew our “carrier” and their claims adjusters.  He said, our out of pocket would be ZERO….as he marked up the costs…so we would get a check, less the deductible….and that was all he would charge,

FB SITE or Page had hundreds of glowing reviews….interesting each one said, didn’t cost me a dime.  A few Google & Yelp had comments about quality and responsiveness to followup issues….some major.

but a deep dive….had filed for bankruptcy in several states after court ordered repairs or damage awards…

The board was totally mesmerized.  Accepted contract….no other bidding was done.  A few years passes….he’s GONE…no promised lifetime warranty.  Found him with another company.  His partner has a “granny” that got a GC (general contractor’s) license.  They now get priority bidding on state contacts…minority owned, as in a female…

SO….google.  READ….find other sites that have information.  But, common sense says….folks with quick and glowing ratings but are almost copy and paste might not be realistic.  I always look for old time businesses…and then check out the current owner or manager and make sure that the folks that were loved …..10 or so years ago …. are still running the place…

SO. The ones I found look good…the other place…not SO.  But this is all cursory….and just understand how social media can be manipulated…

If you find a great shop…let us know…and post a followup…

34 minutes ago, MyronTruex said:

Quote: 

 

Posted 36 minutes agoI checked the edit history,  you edited, within the member time frame, two posts… no staff or moderator edits.  There are clickable link (2) to an Amazon site…..and they resolve. 

 

I am a bit confused as to which two posts I may have edited. Is this regarding posts made today? That is, one was four hours ago and one was three. I see no links addressed. Must be some crippled finger event.    Curious. 

OK…this is how it works.  The “staff” or moderators and such can see the entire history…. You have limited access as a member.

MEMORY as going back and forth from pages on an iPad and then clicking really requires several tabs to be opened.  On page 1…..the first May 3 post…the edit history has every “post” or each time you went in….listed (yes…the site keeps such, but only a Moderator can access).  Bottom line…we could copy and past each one into Word….as separate files and then run the compare and every word or punctuation mark that was “different” between each of two texts would be MARKED.

The edit history shows 6 panels or posts…all by you…not any by staff.  You had one that said  add pictures….you can’t see or access…every time a post is edited, we, the staff will have an EDIT HISTORY link…click on it…as I did.  Myron edited all or if i scroll and count…6 panels or versions….moving on…

NOW….we have never, or at least I suspect the staff has ever had to do that ior did that….but having a copy of everytime a member, OR ONE OF US, is there…don’t read anything sinister…. I probably have thousands of them, but they are ONLY kept for 30 days.  I’ll have a typo or a brainfreeze….the. CORRECT IT.  WHY…lots of reasons….maybe one of us found a mistake and inadvertently deleted or corrected….OPPS we were wrong.  Then the original can be copied EXACTLY as submitted and the “edit” is gone….   The list of why’s is endless.  But…that’s what I can see.

NEXT UP…. Your May 6 post on page 2 was edited, by YOU….it has two panels or probably the original and then the second one.  That’s the history.

NOW…I researched and responded to “missing photos” comments.

And the first (6 edits by you) had an “ADD PHOTOS” as the reason in the box.

MY TAKE…you tried to add photos.???  But there is only ONE link on that post….as a “photo”.  If you go back to it…you’ll see that.  But there are, at the end, two hyper links.  They work.  Amazon pops up.

IF you meant for these to be photos, they have to be a JPG.  As I said, I can open…screenshoot as save as JPG and insert and delete the hyperlink.

BUT…if you had a photo and tried to include and it never made it….then PM to me.

No one, nor the site, changed or deleted anything and the edit history shows only YOU.  Had I corrected a critical word, spelled incorrectly, which we often do…the  myself or the moderators name would be on that panel and be in the EDIT HISTORY.

YES….housekeeping is a PITA, but the site keeps a 30 day history….built in….not some sinister Big Brother feature.

Look.  See what’s missing or what you tried to include…send it to me…it’ll get there, one way or the other.

Hope this clarifies it….

thsnks,

2 hours ago, MyronTruex said:

Daniel, I posted a thanks for the picture post but it seems to have gone into space.

My buddy recently reverse engineered his AC system showing one of those controllers, and now this makes a lot of sense to me. 

I plan on building or buying a breakout box to put in place of the RJ inline couplers while testing. This will allow testing of the DC along the way.

In the post that went into space I mentioned that the Blue wires Tom mentions, that those go to my propane furnaces since I do not have Aqua Hot. 

The DC supply for my units starts at the batteries, goes to the fuse panel in the closet in the bedroom, then forward to the front AC unit, then back to the rear AC unit. Knowing the DC at each location would be helpful.

If someone has some software that could be used to draw block diagrams it would be helpful. My freehand stuff is not pretty so I usually keep those to myself. 

Comment and clarification to a “generalization”.  Myron’s post triggered a “tidbit”.  So…to supplement.

On the Dometic system, per the Dometic installation instructions…which has great illustrations and also the color coding, on each end of RJ DATA COMMUNICATION cable…and specifically says….”It ain’t no phone cable”…..

There is a note or such,  it is ONLY necessary to provide 12 VDC to one Control Module in a system….the power pair in the Data Communications cable will power the other modules, as well as the thermostat…and there is NO 12 VDC power to the Thermostat.

NOT….Monaco, GENERALLY wanted redundancy…or MAYBE the ability to run the OTHER unit if the power (one pair) of the Data Cable was damaged.

SO, generally speaking….and I say this based on reading all or most posts, Monaco adhered to that.  BUT….all Monaco’s are “snowflakes”.  We have had one report, in 15 years, and I THINK, I found the print….where Monaco did NOT run a 12 VDC line to the rear.

Myron makes a good point.  Monaco was “also inconsistent”…memory from looking at way too many of the prints in HOW they got the 12 VDC.  Mostly, again, memory…there was multiple lines from the “Distribution Panel HVAC (not usually labled as that….GRRR) Fuse.  So, a discrete feed to every unit.  BUT, as Myron points out, his, I think, he means, has a “Daisy chained” 12 VDC.  One can debate on which…individual or daisy chained….is more preferred or robust.  Monaco, my guess, never addressed that philosophical/technical question.

So…if your prints show individual…then go with that….but, if no juice…then the “art of troubleshooting” or tracing or toning out comes into play.

BUT, as I posted, the Dynasty Zone 4, standalone, controller “violates” the traditional Monaco technique of a discrete feed (12 VDC) to every control module….  WHY??  Ask the Ohm’s Law God…. LOL.  But….we have yet to see a “lack of 12 VDC” at a Hidden Z4 box….  I knew this NOT, until Frank M commented and had verified and that was what his print called for (2008 Dynasty).  It surprised me…based on all the other prints and models….but…they changed philosophies.

As Myron and his tech background pointed out…you gotta KNOW what’s in your bus and it might NOT match the prints or the “Monaco WAY”.

MYRON,

I checked the edit history,  you edited, within the member time frame, two posts… no staff or moderator edits.  There are clickable link (2) to an Amazon site…..and they resolve.  We each have, depending on our device, a preferred way.  When on my laptop with the docking station and two monitors….a screen print has BOTH screens and really a small thumb nail.  I sometimes take a picture of the critical info on the monitor and then email or pull down from iCloud photos and insert as a JPG.

Other times like now, I just do a screenshot and then insert the photo….as sometimes an Amazon link will crash.

BOTTOM LINE….do you want me to click on the two links to Amazon and do a screen shot and attach to the first page’s post. Not  big deal….I do stuff like this all the time for “housekeeping and clarity”…

Your call and the explanation.  If there was a DIFFERENT picture…PM snd tell me what post to add it to…that is also easy…

OK….DUMB OLD ME.  I used to get “stuck” sometimes….should NOT have been where I was…W/O 4WD.  Also had buddies that specialized in “Wedding Pranks”.

On a NORMAL auto or SUV the poor man’s Posi-Axle is to, when one wheel is spinning, gently apply the parking brake.  That then slows down the wheel with NO TRACTION….it eventually then transfers enough torque to the OTHER WHEEL and you get traction….how much….obviously depends on the terrain and surface.  But I have personally walked a few vehicles out when they got a rear wheel embedded in mud, but had hard ground on the other side.  The Posi-Axle has clutches and mechanically did that….modern ATS systems monitor the individual wheel revs and apply the brakes via the “computer”.

My “friends” would place a bottle jack under the Groom’s ride…one side.  FUNNY ….up to a point.  The solution….rev up the mill and apply, gently, the parking brake.  BINGO pops right off the bottle jack.

OK….MY DUMB TEST…

Block the front (BOTH)  and ONE side of the drive. Jack up one side….maybe an inch.  Have an assistant.  Wear heavy leather gloves.  Have the assistant drop the tranny into gear….do NOT accelerate…while you hold your gloved hands on the outside of the jacked up wheel…tight, but not so much, you’d “SPIN”.  If it doesn’t turn or you can sort of hold it…have the assistant increase the RPM.  A speaker phone is nice for communicating…

NOW…reverse and do the other side.  ODDS ARE…you’re fine.  The POP was the drum with rust breaking free….

As Vito said…you would or should know or hear “mess”.  But, he just like me, agrees….and my “OK! I’m super worried” test above will ally your fears….OR show that the Differential or an Axle (broken?)…has done been “hurt”.

LET us know what you do and find out…

51 minutes ago, MyronTruex said:

 

Great write up Tom. As you suggest, some mileage may vary. As I do not have Aqua Hot, just propane furnaces, so the blue wires control that on mine. 

Someone with the right program might be enticed to build a nice "Block Diagram". 

 

 

This print comes as close to it as I have found.  NOTE... this print is for DUAL Thermostats.  In the 2008 pictures....which I decided to use....that is a Single Thermostat system. Same principle.  In this print...there are TWO Separate and NOT (Data Cable) connected.  They will work stand alone.  The Aquahot does not "CARE" which set of dry contacts or switch legs is used.

FWIW...the Atwood Furnaces work that way.  The same wires that come from a Dometic HVAC Control module are run to an Atwood.  The Atwood has a 12 VDC input...so, again....close or make a circuit in the Dometic AC Board (their name) which we call the Control Module...  The furnace fires up or an AH zone is turned on.

NOW...disregard all the Intellitc MPX wiring stuff.  This is only used as you can turn ON the front AH fans and also vary the speed.  TOTALLY Rube and Complex.  Frank KNOWS...and that, for all our sakes, is all we need to know.

BUT, the Data Cabling and the various inputs, including the remote thermocouples or Sensors is there.

Appreciate the Compliment.  I do NOT think that we have a "white paper" in the files..  maybe someday....when and if things quieten down...

2007 DYNASTY & UP AQUAHOT AND HVAC PRINT.pdf

10 hours ago, MIRIAM said:

I'm about to make myself look more green than I already have, but no going back now....what's "barrel" regulator?  I googled and didn't look like anything I have, but I did but a regular pressure regulator from Amazon (Renator brand - had high reviews) and haven't had a problem with that.  I even 'tested' it by playing with the dial and opening the line to see how it changed the flow, just so I could be familiar.  The rest of what you said seems pretty easy to try and I do have that manifold block, so something else I can check.  I remember 'playing' with at one time (can't remember why) but I set everything back to the way it was, so I can just triple check that, too.  I feel I do a little here and a little there and it gets better.  I changed my setup from spigot to my Y splitter and one side is my short hose to my pressure regulator, which is connected directly to inlet of my U25 filter - then, out the other side of the filter to my potable water hose and into coach.  (I had it different before) and this seems to be better, but I think I might change the connection because it has one with quick connect and I think it could be restricting flow, but right off the spigot and before the pressure regulator, which reads correctly, so that's why I never thought about that.

I'll try it all and if for nothing but experience.  I love doing stuff just to be familiar and learning something new...never know when you'll need to tap into the memory bank and I'm an hands-on visual learner, so trial and error are my go to in most cases..... I'm just a lover of learning.  Thanks for the help! ✌️

Back to BASICS

Google Camco Inline Garden Hose RV Regulator.  or put that into Amazon.  This is what many folks use. These have a small orifice and check valve and will not deliver a full 5 GPM flow.  Don't know about your regulator....lots of folks buy it.  The only way to test.  Use garden hose and and your your regulator. Get a bucket...say 5 Gallon.  Hook up hose to a home faucet without the regulator. Time the filling of the 5 gallon bucket. Now repeat with the regulator on the faucet.  You can adjust the regulator until the pressure STOPS going up...back off a smidge. That will be the line pressure of the faucet. if the regulator times out within 5%, then no restriction in the regulator....MORE...there is one of your issues. The Valterra is exactly the same.

OK...now I am confused about your "SETUP".  The MH did or should have had a filter in the system. It was just a Household filter....similar to the U25 (Assume Omicrom). I don't understand. Here's how MOST Monacos...or one would say ALL.  The potable water (reel hose) goes in and then there is the City/Fill valve and a maze of plumbing.  The plumbing schematic varies.  When on full city, the interior (or it may be in an outside bay...but it is a Household filter) filter is inline.  Thus, you get filtration. When you fill the Tank, some will filter the incoming water.  Some will NOT and then when the water pump sucks out the water, it is filtered. 

OK....here is how most of us hook up.  I use a Y-Adapter with 1/4 Turn shutoff valves.  That goes to the faucet. The Valterra (and it looks like yours) is on one of the outlets. I then hook up the fresh water (the "HOSE" on the reel) to the Valterra.  That regulates the incoming water. I hook up my "BackFlush) hose to it.  In a previous post, I may have called it backflow...or the iPad changed it...will fix it.  That hose stays OFF.  When I dump and need to back flow, I open that hose.  SOME will also close the Line to the Regulator to prevent backflow.  I don't see the need and just leave it open.

Next up is the selection of a Filter Element. Over the years, friends and members have experimented.  Some decided to put in a cartridge (same as your Omicron) that you could almost use in an FDA certified food processing facility.  OMG>>>DISASTEROUS.  The HIGHER the level of filtration or the smaller the particle blocked, the greater the pressure drop...and then, in a few days...they had almost NO FLOW.  Varies with the water and such...but bottom line.  The OEM Monaco filter was designed to be used with the LOWEST Rated filter....to give you adequate flow and pressure.  There are TWO rules of THUMB.  If you have municipal city water, then your "taste buds" are modified so that you don't notice the slight chlorine residual that the Municipal systems have.  BUT, bring in a guest that is on a home system and it, to some, is like drinking swimming pool water.  They do NOT like the taste of chlorinated water.  We fall into that category.  So, I use the cheapest Charcoal filter to take out the taste of chlorine and usually leave that in.  BUT, if we were going to be camping exclusively at well (non chlorinated water) CG, I would use the standard low end FOAM filter.  That is what I use at home...  BTW, I have a system and well that a friend, who is a professional geologist, designed and the water is great and I only use TWO filters.  The first one is a back flushable one (you can drain off any sediment or removed and clean the mesh filter element).  That is a PREFILTER and then a Foam in the 5 GPM full house.  REMEMBER, the Filter that Monaco put in was in the 5 GPM and the pump is in that same range.

NOW...many folks like double filtration and will use an RV "Icemaker" style filter as a PRE Filter on their systems.  They usually have it before the Regulator....doesn't matter.

That's the way the MH was designed to work. If you add additional filtration, then you run the risk....and it is a FACT....there will always be a Pressure Drop (which resulted in a decreased GPM or the flow will be throttled down).  The MH was designed for only ONE filter...and if a second, typically on the faucet, then you will have reduced pressure and flow....and that can be an issue in many CG...

Hope this helps.

If you can draw up the flow diagram, that would be helpful or shoot picture. Maybe I am the only one confused....

BTW...typically, the rule of thumb for this site.  When there are issues with ANYTHING...the first question usually asked....Is the system (Air, Water, Hydraulic, Electric, Fuel or whatever) OEM as in the way it left the factory or has there been modifications made.  Then, if Mods were made....sometimes the recommendation is to "RESTORE TO OEM" and see if that rectifies the problem.

That is why a schematic or pictures are needed, at least for me, to understand how you have your "WATER SYSTEM" plumbed or hooked up.

Thanks....

On 5/12/2024 at 8:04 AM, MIRIAM said:

Excellent - thank you - ordering now.

Assume you know that you can purchase an Aerator Adapter that converts an interior faucet to garden thread.  That is how the pro plumbers test lines inside...

16 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

Chances are they are LONG gone. The best you could do is try some RV shops in the Elhart IN area to see it any one of them could help.

I doubt it though.

Google “matching replacement fabrics for monaco motor homes” or substitute safari cheetah.

Richard is right….never heard of a source.  Monaco used off shore fabric….custom ordered….used it up.  Maybe a miracle.  Call NorthWest RV SUPPLY.  They know more about where “stuff” came from.  They bought out all stuff when the factory was shut down. The sourced the “stock stuff” like switches.  Been through their “treasure hunt” warehouse….never remember bolts of fabric….that walk around was like scavenger hunt…and a week later, I needed a driver’s side complete window…mine was one they didn't have…but worth a call

OK…congratulations.  You now get an award.

The way it works…..and the print shows this.

Each rooftop AC has a “control module”.  Per YOUR manual, you ONLY have ONE Thermostat….There is a data cable going from the thermostat to the front.  That control module’s FURNACE Dip (#7?j is the only DIP ON.  By DEFAULT, this is ZONE 1. There is 12 VDC running to it.  That powers the module.  The Thermostat gets its 12 VDC from one pair of the two pair data cable.

Cable runs to the center….don’t remember exactly the routings….but it is DAISY CHAINED….hypothetically to the MIDDLE AC….Zone 2 DIP is ON…FURNACE DIP is OFF.  Middle AC module has 12 VDC ALSO,  there is a Remote line to a wall sensor or thermocouple.  

Cable runs to the hidden one….most swear it don’t exist….it DOES…THIS IS A FREE STANDING AC Controller.  It has a “cover”.  It is the same as the one in the rooftops…except a protective case.  NOW…it gets TRICKY.  It is set to ZONE 4.  There is NO 12VDC.  It picks up the 12 VDC from the “12 VDC” pair in the data cable.  It ALSO has a sensor….and it goes to the bathroom….now the FURNACE DIP is on….

Finally, the straggler in the bedroom,  end of the data cable run….the rooftop module has 12 VDC running to it.  The Zone 3 Dip is on. The Furnace DIP is on.  There is also a wire to a remote wall sensor or thermocouple.

OK…Monaco, for some reason LEFT OFF the 12 VDC…on ZONE 4….But Dometic actually says….ONLY ONE Module in the daisy chained loop needs 12 VDC.  Monaco ran it to every HVAC UNIT.

NOW…there is a 2 wire (they are BLUE in the harness) run from the AquaHot.  One set to EVERY module that has the Furnace DIP ON.  When the controller closes the circuit (there is NOT any voltsge on the wires), that turns on the pump and “register” or blower fans for that zone.  DONT PIN ME DOWN.  There may be 2 or 3 AH registers or fan units up front.  No matter….what ever AH units (where the heated fluid flows in and out of)…..that one AH Zone controls it.  BTW…the AH Zones, in no way match the Dometic zone numbers..

OK…ZONE 2, see the screen shot….ain’t got no ZONE 2 HEAT or furnace….so, the Furnace DIP is off… NO HEAT or AH Zone here.

BUT the infamous Zone 4 controller….it controls the Bathroom AH Heat.  NOTE…Zone 4 has no connection to any AC UNIT….or HEAT PUMP…

Zone 2 WILL allow AC or HP…but there is NO Connection to an AH Zone unit.

Zone 3 in Bedroom….works like the front….but the THREE thermocouples in the middle and bathroom and rear bedroom send the front Thermostat info.

ANY TINY Break or intermittent OPEN (like one phone terminal on the male or a female)…the female connector are dual inline  and the DIGITAL BOND (Handshake) is history.  Clean and restore the connections.  Then RESET or reboot….then all will work.  If one zone goes…it can mess up others.  This is a Daisy Chained MTP or digital network…and all the modules and all the connections to the thermostat has to be good.  

Dropping ONE connection is what 90% or MORE of the issues that are posted here.  Fix and reboot…runs for years…

That’s how it works…STUDY HARD….Pop Quiz may be sent out by PM…. LOL…

2 hours ago, Les Hurdle said:

link sent back to Monacoers !

Link works….goes directly to a $220 KIT.  YEEOUCH.

BUT simply putting  WASH WAX ALL in Amazon search gets you this….see screen shot.

My solution is easier.  Rainex in washer fluid. Portable A FRAME LADDER. Two bottles of “InvisibleGlass” window cleaner.  One plastic mesh dishwashing plastic “Brillo Pad”….  Two GK’S who’s job it is to clean daily….if needed.

I or DW referee and point out spots missed or such.  GK’s learn “TEAMWORK” and bicker less.  I shot some pictures of them working….one outside and one inside.  DW added to their travel scrapbooks…

PROBLEM SOLVED!!!  LOL  They still laugh about their chores….

2 minutes ago, Jdw12345 said:

That switch on my coach is for the fresh water hose reel.

Bingo….  Now…help us out…is the second or what appears to be a “direction reversing” switch….which you have to push for the right direction?  Then, the top switch is spring loaded and is “POWER”.

In the manual, Monaco had an illustration….but the power reel hose was on the Service panel.  THINGS HAPPEN and Monaco made assembly wiring changes based on parts availability….

THANKS….

@Jim Dinwiddie

Please experiment and then post how yours works

14 hours ago, Scotty Hutto said:

I’ll jump back in with my experience.  In our coach we almost always use the water tank / pump option, and just fill the tank up with city water.  Pressure is always higher for the first few seconds after opening a faucet (any of them, but especially the shower!). As a mechanical engineer, I can tell you this is a normal phenomenon.  You notice it more in the coach than at home because the PEX piping is slightly less rigid than copper or PVC piping, and the amount of unsupported piping in the coach allows it more “expansion” under pressure when the faucets are all closed. Once a faucet is opened, the pressure causing the “expansion” is relieved giving you that burst of higher pressure water.

The other thing that can contribute to this is if there is a restriction somewhere in your piping (think a crimped pipe or clogged pipe).  With faucets closed, pressure build up to the city water pressure (say 45 psi), once the faucet is opened this pressure is relieved, and due to the restriction flow (and pressure) are reduced until the facet is closed.  The *worst* culprits for this are the cheap water “barrel type” pressure reducers.  They reduce pressure by restricting flow through an orifice.  They aren’t the only cause, just the most common.  It could be something as simple as a hose washer with a clogged screen, or pipe that’s crimped or crushed.

Hope that helps.

OK…following up on Scotty.

First…get rid on any of the cheap and ineffective “barrel” “pressure regulators.  They restrict flow as well as pressure.  My daughter and wife complained about CG pressure. You have an upper end MH.  IF you find a CG, particularly out West with high (125 PSI), you can do unbelievable damage to you water system.  Purchase a Valterra RV pressure regulator on Amazon or find one at an RV store. Purchase a pack of washing machine filter screens.  Purchase TWO “male” Garden Hose plugs.

Put the plug on a zip tie so you can screw it into the water hose.  Likewise for the backwash fitting.  Bugs will get in and stop up or restrict flow. Happens all the time.

Now, never hookup to a campground faucet without purging…only takes less than a quart of water to flush out bugs or trash.  Then attach the Valterra. It is preset….use as is.  Hook up your hose, using the water filter screen washer.

NOW…RETEST or see if the ”phenomenon” occurs. Lots of times, you will get a small pressure surge and then the CG water flow stabilzes.  Poor pressure isva norm when full.  Higher pressure when the CG is only lightly populated.

THAT is why some folks supplement and use their fresh pump all the time.  If the CG is on a private well or private system….it’s gonna be worse.  CG on municipal systerms tend to have higher and more stable flow/pressure….but again, the demand as in crowded or close to empty will make your system seem “flaky”

READ your manual. You MAY have the nicer “Mono Block” manifold system.  All valves should be fully opened.  If you have that, read or google and learn how it works…

NOW A BOGO. Purchase a 3 or 4 foot 5/8” or larger garden hose extension….AMAZON,  Putchase a 1/4 shutoff valve with Garden Hose ends.  Don’t bother with the itty bitty…Amazon has them that say “full flow”.  Use pipe dope or a small strip of Teflon tape (google how to use it properly).  Attach one end to the Black Tank back flush fitting…put in a screen washer.  Then put the valve on the other end.  Purge the back flush hose. Hook it up.  Leave the hand valve closed.  Turn on the faucet that has the back flush hose hooked up.  carry a full flow Y fitting with shutoff valves.  Now you can control the timing and amount of back flush at the point of use.  Use a zip tie and dangle one of the male plugs.  Always cap the valve after use.  No debris…

27 minutes ago, Jim Dinwiddie said:

I know it's not a battery but couldn't find a topic for switches. Found this switch in the wet bay. Any idea what it's for? 

Have you “tried it”.  There are a few switches in a Wet bay.  Based on the year, my first GUESS.  REMOTE WATER PUMP.  That is a spring loaded normally OFF switch.  Press it on and ir will then pop back to off.  Try that.  go inside and Turn OFF the water pump.  The PUMP LIGHT should be off.  Then go outside.  Push and hold for a second or so…is there a light on the box or go inside and look at any PUMP switch.  If now ON…BINGO.

IF YOU would read the label on it, post that. Blowing up the photo kills the resolution.

READ chapter 8 in the manual.  Usually all switches are detailed.  Read the chapter on water.  
 

90% of the “what is this and what does it do?” posts here are in the owners manuals.  Read and see if you find it…

1 hour ago, MyronTruex said:

Tom, the black box is the "pre-heat" panel. Basing that on my picture with the little dyno label. I have schematics for that. The black box on the left is the compartment vent fan. The control box is of course, the generator AGS module. 

The big black box in the back of my battery compartment has a power strip with self resetting breakers. One breaker for example feeds my macerator toilet. This is also where the Solar wires come into and go to my solar controller. I probably have pictures of it open. 

 

Battery Compartment.pdf 369.03 kB · 4 downloads

Thanks,

So, based on the three pictures from a 2006 Endeavor, where is the board or did their photos not show or depict it well?

I’m at a loss….or standstill….something I rarely admit….LOL.

GOTTA BE THERE….just WHERE?

17 minutes ago, Cubflyer said:

My feelings on this....

Bilstein's answers should have been:   Make sure you have the right p/n shock, (you seem to)....

The old bolt should fit (but in this case, I suspect an issue.., more later,..)....

I agree that you should not be removing the sleeve, I suspect someone did that to your old (removed shocks).

Questions:   Is the hole size at both ends of the new shocks the same?  Is the hole/bolt size the old shock where there is a steel sleeve the same size as the new shock bolts/holes?..... If so, there is no worry about bolt size carrying the load.... 

If it was mine, I would use bolts that fit the shock sleeve, if there are larger holes in the mounts on the motor home I would repair (down size with bushings or welding new plates with the correct size holes)  I would not suggest just trying to tightening the bolts expecting them to not start sliding/banging around.  

Hope this helps.

Ken

This is a mystery and we all are trying to help...and we each, maybe, understand it a bit differently, as as Vito says, we need some REAL photos of how things were measured.

My only comment is that...  welding or working on a shock bracket and refabricating it is a skill that MANY welders do NOT have...and the working area, even with the wheels removed, might be tight...plus I worry (probably needlessly) about welders and MH and the potential for shorts or spikes.

SO, I would add that IF the "refabricate" route is taken, then drive to Oregon (Hendersons) or Florida (Josams) and have THEM DO IT.  YES, there are probably many well qualified shops elsewhere...BUT, we have had issues when folks had "Thingies" fixed.  We ALSO have many members that are well qualified and have the tools and fabrication equipment to do exactly as you say...  BUT, when a non qualified shop has done repairs...like "Hey, I KNOW how to straighten up that crooked rear axle", the results have been LESS than pleasant.  One member trusted the shop to "lay down beads", which is the common fix...but the differential got way to hot.  He had seals and issues later on and had to have the rear end rebuilt.  SO....JUST a warning....and also from reading most every post over the past 15 years.

I have NO IDEA, what the fix will be...but, like the bulk.  The BUSHING in the NEW shock should be the SAME, within a few thousands...not SIXTEENTHS the same ID as the Bolt's OD.  IF some PO owner did some crazy stuff....FINE.  BUT, the BOLTS (the old ones) that came OUT SHOULD BE THE SAME Diameter as the holes in the mounts.  THEN...if those Bolts will NOT FIT into the NEW SHOCK....then the shock has the WRONG hardware and is NOT MADE FOR THE MH...

THIS IS VERY CRITICAL...and must, from a safety and ride comfort...be PROPERLY installed.  NOW...I KNOW from another member's experience...and testing...  YOU CAN DRIVE the MH without shocks.  BUT, for the suspension to function as designed and for the shocks to WORK AS DESIGNED...the holes in the Mount MUST be the same DIAMETER as the BOLTS...and the BOLTS must fit snugly in the NEW shocks...with the FACTORY BUSHINGS.  IF that don't work...then FIND THE CORRECT SHOCK...and Source seems to have that...based on another post...  Maybe Koni does... Don't KNOW, but the PN's received and the hardware, appear to be totally imcompatible...and that is a MAJOR ISSUE....

That's as SIMPLE as I can, for my own understanding, say it...

Thanks for your input....

3 hours ago, MyronTruex said:

Rear run bay. Right side, last compartment. The fuse panel is just like the two up front on mine but of course these have different functions. I should have taken a close up of the fuse layout in the lid. To the right of this fuse panel is the automatic generator start control board. Then to its right is a cover for the pre-heat and starter relay panel. 

The Magnum 2012 is on the floor of the compartment. There is a fan that cools the compartment and is controlled by a snap thermistor device.

I'm just tossing out some useless information but may help clarify things for someone. For some darn reason the pictures are turned 90 degrees. I'm too lazy to fix them. 

Myron,

THAT makes sense to me.  I did not blow up your photos (shame on you for not editing...  LOL)...but I'll bet that the relays in the print that I posted match up or are close to what you have in yours.  There were some "upgrades" and such...circa 2007 or so and your 2008 may be a bit different...but now the OP has a target.

BTW...Frank said that he had opened the mystery box...and was going to get better lighting and peer around in there..  it was a "maze" of wires...or that was my understanding.

SO, maybe he will shoot some pictures and maybe his is where your's is.  I went through about 10 adds for a Diplomat and Endeavor (2006) and the box above the batteries was the only thing that stuck out....I also pulled the manual before and after and NONE of them...or I MISSED IT...had any details.  The Manuals gave info on the two Monaco 1 and Monaco 2 FRONT Boards...but nary a sentence or illustration on the Board called out on the prints.

I guess we see.  I also search the posts hoping to find photos...but the black box in the battery compartment was the only item.

OK....CURIOSITY IS ADDICTIVE.

Here is a Link to the BEST For Sale ad for a 2006 Endeavor or Diplomat....as I said... I scanned 10 of them.  

https://www.rvtrader.com/listing/2006-Holiday+Rambler-Endeavor+Series+40PDQ+400hp-5029781670

If you open it and go BACKWARDS...almost 50 photos...you'll see the ones that I copied...to save you the trouble...here is the ONLY one that I found that I overlooked and it has the INVERTER... NOW...I wonder what the black box on the right side towards the top is (near the AGS)?

Please look at it and see if it sort of matches what you have... If you want to really find the needle, then blow up the last photos (in the high 30's or low 40's) and see if you can find it...  This is now a challenge....or at least for me....I HATE unresolved issues...

Thanks again....we'll see where it is...and then we'll all know...

YES...technically, even an OWNER can be forced to give up his property...happens all the time when a road or other "WORTHWHILE" project....usually roads, but also public buildings or schools or hospitals.  Varies from state to state...and THAT is the END OF THAT.

BUT, without getting into a constitutional debate or such...

When one buys a home and the land (and house and such) have a BINDING set of Covenants from a duly qualified entity, such as a Home Owners (Property) Association, then those rules stand.  In many cases, when the ENTITY (called HOA or POA) makes revisions, and the property owner protests, then the courts have (USUALLY...NOTHING IN THE COURTS IS ABSOLUTE), that the Revision or "DATED" level of the Covenants are the RULING one.  You can rewrite them all the time...but the owner does NOT have to comply..

OK...that was the PREMISE....

BUT the crafty lawyers (I can defame the profession as I paid to educate my son and get his JD...LOL) started to get wise.  THEN then said...."whatever the date of the covenants are at CLOSING are BINDING...as they should BE...

BUT, there is a back door or loophole.  The HOA or the POA has the right to ammend, based on due cause and there is a "sort of iron clad protocol" that they must go through to REVISE.

REAL WORLD...A friend has had to consolidate and rewrite the covenants for a rural mountain community.  MOST of the Property Owners are "ROCKET SCIENTISTS"....THAT IS A FACT.  One NASA Professional (Scientist or Engineer) found the community.  BOUGHT land...Built (himself) the home.  NOW...he was SO SMART...he designed it and then was his own general and did most of the work.  It is a 4 story or level house...with an elevator.  He brought in, towards the last, the HVAC contractor and said..  OK...need a Quote.  The contractor walked around....looked at the PROFESSIONALY (AutoCad) plans and said.  You can NOT install a HVAC system in this house.  SPLUT... SPLUT....you dumb hillbilly, of COURSE you can... I'll get someone one who know his craft...  

OK...the Hillbilly as he was leaving calmly explained...  You put in chases for water, sewer and electrical.  You left out the DUCTWORK Chases.  I can NOT run duct up and down....it ain't gonna work.  OMG....the guy turned pale.

THEN he apologized.  The solution.  The wife had to give up several of her closets or shrink then down so that the Supply and Return was installed and the supply registers were massive above the door of each closet...only ONE per level.

I was challenged to design a AC System for my Parents house.  They had Radiant Ceiling heat...  One big wire running about every 8" and then sprayed with popcorn.  Single level.  NO Crawl space big enough.  We finally got it installed with a trunk line or main supply in the attic and every DROP was into a Closet and then a 90 degree into the room.  Had them coming out of the garage roof and then into the kitchen and living room.

SO...BACK ON POINT.  These NASA Scientists sort of "RAN THINGS".  They controlled the HOA.  They wrote CUSTOM covenants for different sections and such.

An owner challenged.  The Covenants were combined and then 75% of the Home Owners had to VOTE...FORMALLY...in person.  SO the NEW set now is in place...and there is a clause the 80% of the Owners must approve any revisions.

NOT ALWAYS THE CASE.  There was a MEGA lawsuit where a dense townhouse community was controlled by some "Radicals".  They decided NO AirBNB.  Don't care which side one is one or not...  BUT the ORIGINAL Covenants never addressed short term rentals and then the "Radicals" added...  ALL Short Term Leases...as in owning a unit for investment, had to have the CONSENT of the HOA board or committee and the renter was then "INTERVIEWED" to make sure they were OK.

That got shot down... 

SO...in this case...  Whatever the Deed Restrictions were....and if there is an "ASSOCIATION", ODDS ARE...the purchaser signed on that form...sort of the SIGN HERE....KEEP MOVING.  SO, your RIGHTS are subject to whatever covenants or deed restrictions that you signed at closing...and that, generally speaking, is the law.

This is NOT a government take over...but the way the Associations govern.  I have friends that own expensive homes, one with a MH barn.  They NEVER, EVER would buy land in a development with any "RESTRICTIONS".  BUT, then the flip side.  Joe Shadetree comes in and starts a "fix on sight" garage.  He builds a garage...keeps adding bays...now there are 20 cars parked....down the road is a multimillion home....and then the FUN BEGINS....

This is MY understanding and I was president of an HOA for years and tried to "govern" and keep peace...and my Boat and MH were challenged by the HOA... and I fought and won...because the Developer, who was HEAD of the Architecture committee for years, installed a second driveway for anything I wanted to park...Boat, Utility Trailer or RV or MH.  The HOA went hostile and I sent them an explanation and copied the attorney that closed...who closed most of the houses.  He sent the HOA attorney a short note.  Developer approved, per the Architectural rules, the driveway, for the EXPRESS purpose of additional parking for vehicles or such....no restrictions.  THEREFORE, I (his buddy) HAD received Architectural Approval...and it was GRANDFATHERED and then I was FREE to do what I pleased.

I kept the letter.  Each time the HOA changes the "Management Company", they FLEX their muscles and I get a Violation.  I send back the violation and said it was approved and here is the note from the attorney and the BOARD, that did the ORIGINAL Griping sent me a letter saying....YOU ARE IN COMPLIANCE...

END of RANT>..

1 hour ago, John C said:

Could someone here please tell me what is the shock model number for 2007 Dynasty ?
I bought Bilstein 24-187312 Shock , Yellow because a lot of people have post that is the shock for both front & rear, now I believe I may have bought the wrong shock.
The reason is following:
Bilstein 24-187312 Shock new shock is almost identical to the my old shock, but there is one difference: the old shock doesn't have steel sleeve inside the eye while the new shock has it, because the old shock doesn't have the steel sleeve, the bolt go through the eye is bigger and it can't fit the eye of the new shock, I decided me buy a new bolt to fit the new shock sleeve , now a few more people suggested me that I should use the old bolt because it fit the chassis and the smaller bolt may have problem late on.
So I called Bilstain support, here is what they told me

 

• I may have the wrong shock .
• I should always use the old bolt
• I should not pull the steel sleeve out of eye because that will destroy the rubber brushing, because the bushing is melt with the steel sleeve when they make it.

So if it is the right shock, which I still believe it is, it is catch 22, I can't remove the steel sleeve, but I have to use the bigger bolt, which is too big. what do I do?

Thank you!

 

EDIT….after I posted this….I did some searching here.

READ THIS….Source has a shock for a 2007 Executive…..and all the Dynasty and ABOVE was on the same basic chassis…..you need to read the entirety of my post for the history……but, you BEST option….Source Shocks.  Send the incorrect Bilsteins BACK…..

NOW, you might call Koni and find out what they recommend and then have them send you the prints or a spec sheet and compare. BUT the Koni’s are in the same price range as the Source and there is NO COMPARISON….Source is designed for the Roadmaster chassis.

As I said before….there were issues with one member’s shocks and Source Engineering could not get the correct shock, specially valved to their proprietary “design”….but that was only one instance out of hundreds of posts on shocks,

Bilstein did NOT MAKE a shock with the “mounting brackets” or holes that would FIT. YES…You pulled off Bilsteins. BUT if the OEM shock was a special run for Monaco….and design changes were made later on, then, Bilstein may have discarded the tooling and is now, based on demand, offering it.

The Source special shocks may NOT WORK, but you have a vender that actually KNOWS something.

NOW….Did Bilstein give you the correct PN.  Bilstein actually had a Motor Home shock specialist in 2012.  I talked to 2 distributors….who ran the largest Bilstein replacement stores.  Neither ONE would sell me shocks without calling the MH specialist.  They gave me his contact info. He spent an hour on the phone with me. He was involved when Source contracted Bilstein to make the “roadmaster” special shock.  We had members back then that drove to Oregon and Source used their MH as well as buying and renting others.  A team of owners, professional paid drivers/testers and Source crew and Bilstein tested and finally settled in on the valving.  This was a multi week or maybe a month long project. Bilstein’s OTR Shock trailer was on site and the techs.  BTW, every NASCAR team has a clean room and two special shock techs.  They work with the crew chief and the driver and custom build, for virtually every track, the shocks for the cars. The driver’s skills and driving traits play heavily.  Toured Dale Earnhardt’s facility and we spent a lot of time talking.  Some drivers like a shock that has the car in almost a controlled powerslide in every turn….others do NOT like the “let it all hangout” and like a tight suspension.  They can’t “swap” cars….lap times decidely different.

BOTTOM LINE.  You have the wrong shocks.  If Source says, after you measure, that they have the right shock….BUY IT. The Bilstein shock guru’s son had a Monaco and he ran the Source shocks at his dad’s recommendation.

Frank and I have been back and forth on this.  Here is a picture from a FOR SALE 2006 Endeavor.  

MY BEST GUESS...

The cabinet with the Thumb Screw above the Batteries MIGHT (SURE HOPE SO) contains the board. Can't tell from the picture if there is a missing thumbscrew on the right side or if you loosen the thumb screw on the right, it will swing out...

The other picture with a LABEL that is affixed, now dangling, is in our topics and is a 2003 Endeavor....ODDS are...this is it...OR NOT...let us know...

Sometimes these searches take on a life or "career" of their own...

NO GUARANTEES....but TRY THERE....

27 minutes ago, dandick66 said:

Here are pictures of mine - 2012 Diplomat.  I had a heck of a time finding it since the drawings indicate the fuse is in the FRB.  Also, mine was marked ECM battery.  

Yours is different from the RRB in the Endeavor.  Your’s is a spinoff of the 2008 Camelots.  The 2006 Endeavor has a board, similar to your  front board….just not as big and complex.  The print I posted is a layout of the board with fuse and relay location. You got my curiosity up, so I checked my prints. You are correct.  One of the Relays IS the Trailer charging relay.  The other is very critical.  It is the BIRD (BiDerectional) and Boost relay.  If it fails….dead batteries or NO BOOST.  BTW…if your House Bank is DEAD….the Boost or Big Boy Solenoid will NOT work. If you need the BOOST to start the GENNY….ain’t gonna work.  You HAVE to turn off both disconnect switches and use a Jumper Cable….after you turn the switches back ON.  There is no other SAFE way to do it as you run the risk of burning up the coil on the Big Boy. The Genny will start….you don’t need, nor should you use the Boost. It is OK, carefully, to remove the Jumper cable.  Once the House gets enough surface charge the BIRD system comes back on line. ONE enterprising owner suggested a second “Boost Switch” under the dash. You wired in a fused (10 A) Chassis Power (Hot) to the power input on the up front Boost switch.  You had a push button Momentary contact switch on the Chassis line. THUS, you held ON both the hand switch and the BOOST switch and THEN had someone push the Genny Start.  That Chassis line temporarily powered the BOOST so 12 VDC went to the relay…. LOL?  Got all that.  A Jumper is always your friend….

BUT….your pictures makes a point that I just made on the post about an older slide issue.

The NEED to evaluate your fuses and carry spares.  The large Bussmann Ignition fuses are not at any big box or auto store.  If you blow one of them….DOA.  I finally found a shorter one and had to drill a hole and use extra washers.  My advice.  Find the exact BUSSMANN Ignition (heat proof) fuses.  Inventory snd get one of each. Amazon usually has, bit there are online electronic sites as well.

You also have a 300 Amp Inverter fuse…blow that….NO INTERNAL AC.  The Magnum HAS TO BE ON and it HAS TO HAVE 12 VDC (the fuse is on the Positive), OTHERWISE, the Magnum’s INTERNAL ATS will not give your 120 outlets POWER….even on Genny or SHORE.  Some do NOT realize that the interior outlet circuit goes THROUGH the Magnum….and it has to be on and working to provide AC.  There is NO direct or circuit breaker connection through the main 50A panel to those outlets.  

Just a tip we often post….frequently as folks don’t know that many of the fuses are high end specialty items and no where tombe found….even in a High Tech Area like in Raleigh Durham.

WOW….this is great.  My only comment.  Many of us former Boy Scouts carry way too many spares.  I have a spare fuse for every Bussman Ignition (up to 200 A) fuses EDIT...I found a picture and added it...END of EDIT on mine as well as the 300A Inverter fuse.

Might I suggest, being a non frugal spender and getting a few spare resetting CB. These puppies get as old and cantankerous as I am…

WHILST discussing spares.  Throw 4 or 6 of the Dual Inline Phone cable connectors that are inside the Plenum on the Dometic systems.  They get dirty, moist, worn(from the vibration) in your Amazon cart.  Much easier to pop in a spare than go through the hassle of trying to clean the contacts…and the contacts do abrade and wear….it only takes a few thousands of wear to break or make the connection intermittent.

Now, back to our regular programming….

FWIW….I had helped another member with issues and the RRB location and layout was in question.

OK….I used the INDEX in the above file and also located the print. Posted two PDF’s..s  These may be what Frank is referring to, but, here is the print of the RRB “BOARD” or such.

Hope this helps.  The relay and the 20 Amp fuse are plainly there…towards the mid to upper right on the print.  PLEASE remember….the IGNITION switch MUST BE ON to energize the relay.  Test the pin on the 7 pin rear plug…..without the key ON….NADA.  A common mistake that is made….

2007%20Diplomat%20%26%20Endeavor%20Wiring%20Diagrams%20INDEX..pdf 2007%20Rear%20Bay%20Wiring%2016622596.dwg.pdf

4 minutes ago, John C said:

I am in the middle of replacing all my shocks, just noticed the old shock doesn't have the steel piece inside the top bolt hole but the now one does.
The is no way for me to push the old bolt inside new shock top hole without removing the steel piece.
So I have two options
1. Remove the steel piece and use the old bolt and nut
2. Leave the steel piece in place, buy a new set of the bolts to fit the hole on the new shock.

What will you do?
Thank you

Assume you mean the steel bushing inside the new one is wider that your bracket?

Call Bilstein and ask for RV Shock Tech support.  Bilstein had some errors in the literature.  If you ordered from one of online distributors, most would get the MH information and call Bilstein themselves and verify PN before they shipped.

Based on your comments on the other thread, i assumed you had a stud nut on top.  

Bilstein or the distributor is your first call.  I am hesitant to advice a shade tree fix as you may have the wrong shock.  Supposedly all the Monaco’s were the same, but I have heard of some issues when Monaco did some weird things and there was not a Bilstein that would work on that model.  Source Engineering ran into that, IIRC, and the member ended up with Koni’s…

Is there a stamped Bilstein number on your old shocks.  Monaco also did buy off shore shocks and had them custom painted to match, but the word BILSTEIN was never on them….or so I was told by an EX Monaco employee…

4 minutes ago, John C said:

OK, then new bolt!

Thank you!

CONFUSED…

The bolt must be the same diameter as the old one….to fit in the mounting holes….otherwise the shock is gonna wallow around.  
Please read my post….

your description of the issue confused me….is the new steel bushing too WIDE or is the hole diameter wrong.?

I would not beat out a bushing.  Can you easily remove the new bushing?  Is the diameter the same.

Lots of questions….speaking for the staff, we recommend that you sort this out with Billstein and are concerned that a member might unknowingly advise something unsafe…and shocks are critical issues…

OUR POSITION….any advice posted here that may be incorrect for your situation must be flagged with a comment that anything done or modified during an installation that is questionable and not approved by the vendor could be a safety issue……and is to be considered as “incorrect until the manufacturer approves” and that you have acknowledged such…absolves the site of all liability….

This might be simple…but until it is clear….anything you do is at your own risk….

Thanks for understanding….
 

38 minutes ago, waterskier_1 said:

I just replaced both my Group 31 batteries this past winter.  The best price I found was Batteries Plus.  Looking at my records, the price almost doubled from the price I paid 5 years ago, for the same batteries also from Batteries Plus - the best price I could find at that time also.

  -Rick N.

Looked mine up....

June 2015.  Interstate - Distributor price...from Distributor... MHD-950   $240 for PAIR NET after old battery trade in.  Tax included.

October 2021. Interstate...same Distributor....talked to a guy on the phone on the service/sales desk and sort of conned him into a discount.  $257 - Pair. GROSS with taxes and no Core Deduct...

 Wife picked up and the guy ringing up the ticket (sticky note with my name and price) said...  OMG...  He really gave your husband a discount.  I think that is what we pay for them...laughed and then honored the price... 

HOWEVER, then we went back and got $20, so the NET price was $237 for TWO.  

I KNOW they are more now... They are now charging, no discount, the MSRP, I THINK.  $190 as I quoted a few days ago.  OUT THE DOOR...with cores turned in and taxes...  $405....or 71% MORE.  YEE DOUBLE OUCH...

1 hour ago, Indydyne said:

On a semi related note, I was breaking the pin in my HWH bedroom slide that does not have a current sense limit to my knowledge. I replaced the 3/16 pin with a grade 8 10/24 by 1.75 inch bolt and nut.  All is good now. Maybe that could be an option for your lippert slide as well. 

Others have done such and when the Grade 8 bolt didn’t shear…..painful and expensive.  The usual advice, plus the experience and wisdom of the group….from at least 2009 to now…and that had a LOT of owners with your system.  
 

CURIOSITY STEPPED IN….it took some doing…..but here goes….

First…find the data for the roll pins…but the test method description baffled me.  Then I found or tried or found similar data for #10mdiameter grade 2 and grade 5 and grade 8 bolt.  The graded 2 is a low carbon steel.  The grade 5 is a higher carbon steel, but hardened and then tempered or stress relieved.  Likewise the grade 8 is a higher grade….heat treated as well.

Folks that jumped to all the way to grade 8 had issues.  The numbers may be here if you search…but the advice from many owners….many of which were graduate mechanical engineers….take it carefully.  Go up one step above the OEM Pin Shear Specs…..and see, and IIRC, it did….IF that works…

OK….being, one time, the chief engineer for a fastener company…..i finally, at least to my brain and engineering background, figured it out…

A Roll Pin is tested on a Double fixture set up and a bolt or fastener is tested on a single. See the picture….

NOW..you look up the specs….

3/16 is the typical way a shear or roll pin is categorized….. while a bolt is different.  So…3/16 = 0.1875.  A #10 bolt is 0.190….DRIVE ON….virtually the same.

NOW the data… in POUNDS…

Garden Variety 3/16” pin…. 2,400….the HWH recommended

Higher grade 3/16 SS ……….3,150  or more that 30% MORE

Grade 5 #10 bolt……………….4,252…..HOLD ON….the chart says….. 2,126.  
YOU HAVE TO DOUBLE the SINGLE value….per all the research and what I read….so rarely is a BOLT tested like a shear or roll pin….

Grade 8 #10 bolt……………. 5,160   Or 2 X 2,580

Grade 2 #10 bolt……….. 2,550.  The RULE OF THUMB….an unhardened low carbon bolt has about 60% of the same size grade 5….or it would be the same as the garden variety roll pin.

So…no wonder the Grade 8 doesn’t break.  It is TWICE as strong.  But, the “folks in the field” say…it will BEND before it breaks…and when it does….it is then press fitted into place and is hard to get out….often takes disassembly and you have to remove the shaft or the entire mechanism and figure out how, in a hydraulic press, drive it out.

My recommendation would be to find the SS pin made for the hole….and try that….

NOW….we have a great number of engineers here and some with extensive backgrounds and testing experience.  One of our founders was a Mechanical Engineer - Aerospace…..the elite breed of ME’s.  He worked designing all sorts of things…..like the propulsion systems in torpedoes.  He cautioned about using a grade 8 Bolt…but NEVER added the background research. If I am wrong…..then someone with more materials knowledge and testing and such should correct me.  I was in charge of QC and did most of the exotic testing….or the ones required for special fasteners….and I learned a lot….

That’s my take on it…based on the published data and the difference in the test setup and the logic, generally accepted, that a bolt in s double set up will test TWICE as strong….

16 hours ago, windsorbill06 said:

I've got 4 electric slides.  The issue I'm having in on only 1, the front curb side slide out.   It's a lippert slide out.  Gears.  No cables.    Slide goes in and out smoothly, square and no jerking or bouncing.  There is no floor rot or damage.

 

The problem I have is when the slide reaches it's limit (either retracted or extended), the motor will keep running and torque off the sheer bolt.   This is the original motor.   

Can someone explain how the motor is to know that the slide has reached it's limit ?   I'm not aware of any limit switches.  Maybe motor senses a amp jump?  Maybe slide out circuit board in rear electrical compartment is acting up?

 

Without doing a LOT of searching and digging…now on my iPad.  You have a custom board for the slides….

Go to the link below…..then skim over the comments about Hydraulic….they were in error. There is a SECOND link further down.  Read BOTH carefully.

The OLD Windsor or the coveted  series DIED,  2004 (or maybe mid 2005) was the last. BUT Monaco KEPT the badge name alive. Your 2006 is the same, except for the pillow thrower’s “interior” and the paint scheme….as the Scepter and Camelot…. This has been confirmed from the prints . SO NOW….here is the rest of the story.

I worked with the lady and she disappeared. BUT all that research and talking to Lippert and others that had worked or had problems…finally made sense.

There is a “custom proprietary” control board for all the slides.  It controls the motor by reversing and such. It also, IIRC, has the circuits to limit current and controls and monitors the amperage.  Thus, if you have an issue on one slide in one direction….a BOARD issue.  These boards were not very robust. They were also prone to water damage due to location.  NOW…these are generalities.  

BUT….they are NO LONGER available and I do NOT believe that anyone works on them or repairs them.  I am also am fuzzy on who made them.  We have so many slide boards and there were companies that made them that closed.  KIP or similar may be one.

MOST of the time….creeping or “when damp”….a slide will move….that was the case here.  Other times….DEAD.  

Based on a lot of conversations with Frank and reading….the fix is this.  Lippert (memory) makes a single slide control board.  It does the same thing….reversing and current monitoring as the multislide board.  A GOOD tech, that can pin out the connectors or follow the circuit and understand the input (switches) and outputs (motor) has…maybe or should be able to remove one slide from that board.  Then install a separate controller for that slide.  From the inside….the switches are fhe same….but at the control location….there will be a separate module or controller…..  Thus….if one fails….remove and reinstall a new controller (maybe $175 - $250 for the part).  THEN….when or if a second fails…..bite the bullet if you are paying a tech and do BOTH and junk or remove the old system.

SOMEWHERE….I read….one of the replacement controllers MAY actually use the same connectors….easy…but if not….you buy the harnesses for the new controller and rewire. That’s my recollection….but, the whole tale of tears, is in BOTH of the links….

That’s my memory…so you have to verify the controller….and the prints are in the files.  Can NOT recall if there was a board for ALL 3 or if each MH, depending on how many slides had a one or two or three slide configuration….