Tom Cherry
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Posts posted by Tom Cherry
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5 hours ago, vipeboy2000 said:
Thanks. Mine has a molex as well. It does seem that I'm not getting 12 v to the 3amp fuse in the unit. I'll check the pins in the molex next. Will any rj12 phone cable work to test the thermostat directly at the unit? And how can you tell which port is the one for the thermostat. Both of them go into that sheathed bundle so I can't tell.
Followup….
First, you will have to go to the drawings and MAYBE start looking at the Pins and the “input” and output side.
@Frank McElroy is our expert on the Dynasty….he has a 2008. PM HIM. Odds are he KNOWS exactly which fuse provides the power
NOW….Myron has given you a lot of help. BUT….your question is a little “higher level”.
The system, per Dometic design, is configured or “designed” for ONLY one 12 VDC point. To state another way. For each group or “section”….you only need ONE of the Control Modules…..wihich is on the Dometic breakdown as “AC Board” or something like that. BUT, Monaco, chose to run a hard 12 VDC power line to every HVAC Unit. That is a HARD AND FAST RULE. If I understand your problem…you have no 12 VDC to the front….that is a SINGLE control or single UNIT.
NOW the rear is a little different…..read and UNDERSTAND this. The 12 VDC to the front AC is the same “feed” or FUSED circuit as the rear. Your rear is a bit tricky. 12 VDC goes to the Rear (Zone 1) and Middle (Zone 2). BUT THEN…Monaco broke their LOGIC or maybe CHEATED. There is a Hidden, standalone AC Board buried….it does NOT, per Frank’s digging, a SEPARATE 12 VDC. It works as ….HEY, here is my Data Communications cable….it gives me 12 VDC on ONE Pair. I get my Digital MPX command signal from the OTHER Pair.
From a practical or troubleshooting plan, this is HOW I’d DO IT.
Does the REAR Thermostat have Power? YES….YEA! I didn”t blow the house FUSE….and I know the issue is in the FRONT…
if NO!…the Thermostat is dead. STOP any further chasing and FIND the HVAC fuse. It IS on the House Board.
Also, since Myron is an advocate of simplicity…..start reading page 105…it has all I just, in both posts, said and explans howeach zone works. IT IS NOT a trouble shooting guide….but unless you know the basics….as Myron does…his issues and such and his innate knowledge may not be adequate to help you.
NEXT UP…read section 8. BUT, the Dynasty does NOT have the “panel” labels in the manual if yours is missing, all the labels are shown in the print. BE AWARE…you may NOT have an HVAC FUSE LABEL. My HVAC fuse is labeled “SATELLITE”. No WHERE is that also shown as HVAC….except in the prints.
NEXT UP. Here is what I would do….and this ASSUMES that you have found the fuse and have POWER to the rear Thermostat…..BTW…this answers the “HOW TO TEST”. Look in the trouble Shooting guide….or download the manual for your unit, towards the back there is section on “how to wire and install”. Find the Ground and PLUS 12 VDC to the “AC Board”. I THINK…and wager that the pins or the RJ connector leads, are on the print. So…VOM on continuity…..use the GROUND connection and then check each of the 4 Pins. THEN do the same for the 12 VDC…those two PINS are the power. Members hace pinned out the RJ many times before. Think you messed yours up? Go to the roof and pull the cover off the rear. Pin out all 4 leads….then see if you have the same upfront. If you fried the board…then the Data Cable will not work. You CAN swap boards or move the thermostat…..as Myron did.
BTW….the leads are INTERCHANGEABLE. The Data cable can come into the Zone 1 rear….to the Thermostat….and the other one goes to the Zone 2. You can SWAP the cables. Domietic did that for ease of installation….the Controller is basically a “Parallel” connection….so the two dangling RJ’s will work on either cable,
That’s the way….from knowing the system and helping at least 50 - 100 folks, like yourself, troubleshoot….once you have the basics of how it works,,,,testing is easy.
Good Luck…
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EDIT.
ADDED THE HVAC PRINT TO POST
END OF EDIT
There is ONE FUSE, Somewhere on the main fuse panel. It feeds ALL the control modules…zone 1, 2 & 3. You have a hidden “controller” for the middle section heat. Zone 4, i think.
There is a clear drawing for this in your prints. It shows all the zone units and 120 VAC and such. If you down load the file…open it. There is a PDF index.
I can’t really tell how much damage….you may have done….minor or major from your post.
Here is what you need to understand, There is a 2 Pair or 4 wire “data communications” cable that runs from the thermostat to the front unit….then all the way through the MH. My memory is slack as to whether you have 2 or 1 thermostats. One pair is 12 VDC. It powers the thermostat. The other pair is a Multiplexed pair.
If you broke or destroyed a phone connector wire….UGLY. The way this works. Any time you mess with or disconnect or tinker with the HVAC system, you “disconnect” a circuit that is always HOT or live. SO…after you finish, you have to RESET or REBOOT then entire system, Turn OFF the bottom switch. Hold ON MODE and ZONE. Then power it ON. FF in the display. That means the Thermostat has communicated with and done a digital handshake with every controller. Sort of like holding hands at a prayer session, BREAK the circuit….it ain't gonna work. Reset. WORD OF CAUTION. Never use the bottom switch for anything except resetting. Use the Zone snd then toggle the MODE to OFF. The thermostat is not in production. Used. The mechanical swrich is the first to fail. You DO NOT want to abuse it.
If you blew a House fuse….look on the print or read the owners manual and find out which. Replace or test it. NO FF during reset…there is a Communication open circuit. You can remove the front controller and the the rear controller (top side) and swap. This is the quickest troubleshooting technique. You MUST set the DIP switches so that the front one, presumably NOW in the rear, NOW matches the REAR settings. Odds are…FRONT has only fhe FURNACE DIP ON. The rear is set to zone 3 and Furnace ON, This is based on ONE Thermostat. If you have TWO. Bedroom will be Furnace ONLY…..as the default is Zone 1. Middle will be Zone 2 on. Don’t recall the Furnace setting….PROBABLY NONE…as your heat is Zone 4 in a buried. If you need to find it....post and one of our Dynasty experts will assist. That’s the drill. YOU MUST GET AN FF….otherwise a wiring problem. Some folks have to reterminate the PHONE connectors.
You need to be familiar with the prints....m and learn to use them,
Use the SEARCH Function. Use AIR. Then click on EVERYWHERE. Select FILES. There are several Dometic related or helpful files. there. I did it for another member on his "AIR" system...but the Dometic popped up as well. Here is the results of the search. Download what you need to learn and understand.
https://www.monacoers.org/search/?q=air&quick=1&type=downloads_file
NO POP QUIZ THIS TIME…skipping the “May the Force….” Tagline.
Keep us posted…
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On 5/2/2024 at 10:01 AM, RoadTripper2084 said:
Now I am curious and want to read the bad and dangerous advice. 😉
Don't believe what folks tell you. The Rolexes, sold on the sidewalks and such, in DC and NYC and LA are REAL. They are a real bargain. They are stolen and not a fake knock off that won't work when you get home.
Now....do you feel better....? LOL
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40 minutes ago, martinsimba said:
My new to me 07 Safari Simba has always been temperature controlled. Unfortunately, it will no longer be kept indoors. Therefore, I would like to know:
1. If I can just use Damprid in the Pennsylvania summer humidity to control the moisture?
2. If I run a dehumidifier, can I use an extension cord to run 140 feet from a 15 amp outlet in my home ?
3. What gauge does the cord have to be to run 140 feet?
Appreciate your input! Thank you in advance.
simple. You need a THREE (3) conductor #1 AWG cable. You can buy it locally at some Big Boxes. It is called "SERVICE ENTRANCE CABLE" Rated for the run and also weather resistant. Here is a typical way to order online.
Cost without shipping and taxes... $1,760. IN STOCK...
PERSONALLY... I would try the chemical... A GUN NUT buddy of mine...also a crackerjack Engineer that "studies things" uses it to protect his arsenal. NOW, having been down this road before to try to keep a few basements dry... YOU NEED AIR CIRCULATION to keep use the DampRid in an area that large. YES, it will work for a Gun Safe... but how many cubic feet is in your MH...a rhetorical question.
YOU COULD run a 20" floor fan off the inverter. I have had this one in my attic for at least 3 years. IT WORKS...it is a HIGH CFM and it will move some air...
I would purchase a "PLUG IN" Humidity Control and run it at say 50%.... Theoretically, this is a 60 watt fan...or 5 AMPS of DC power (60 divided by 12 V) so....24 hours times 5 amps equals 120 Amp Hours. you have a 450 Amp Hour house bank. TWO (2) days would consume 240 Amp Hours or about 50% of your bank. Throw in a little "fudge factor". I think you would need to run your Generator about 1.5 to 2.0 Hours per day. At 50% load....that is about 1.5 Gallons of fuel (0.75 GPH times 2 hours). SO, that is about $6 per day. IF you have solar...less.
Therefore... Moving the air... $180 per month. DampRid??? UNKOWN. BUT, just moving the air will provide some form of moisture removal.
Not what you might want to know...but, if you can put containers of DampRid that will collect (need a HIGH SURFACE AREA....think 18" diameter tubs...and empty them....they turn into WATER.
Is all this necessary. I DO NOT KNOW? BUT, you COULD purchase a battery powered Humidity Meter...they are cheap. Most come with multiple sensors. SO, 2 or 3. THEN measure the humidity... Don't KNOW WHERE you are...and what it is normally.
I think this answers some of your questions....but how to estimate.... Depends on how much moisture is in the air....and how much you intend to control.
I MIGHT, seriously, consider the big fan. BUT, put it on a 24 hour timer. Run it for say an hour....every 4 hours. That would be 6 hours per day... compared to 24...or 25%. Your Genny fuel would be around $45 per month. WOULD that work. Don't know....but it might. I do that for my Crawl space and it works...as well as my attic.
Good Luck...
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1 minute ago, jacwjames said:
On some coaches they mounted the valve behind the white panel in the wet bay, other times they mounted it on the outside. And or they could have used a standard water valve and just put a check valve in the line between the fitting you attach your water hose to and the valve.
In my case the valve is mounted on the outside of the white panel, but to be able work on it I removed. They put finger nuts on the water lines behind the panel so I could reach up behind and unscrew the two finger nuts. I then was able to put the valve in a vise to hold it so I could replace the check valve, which on the left side of the valve.
Sometimes you ought to thank whatever power or such that you respect, for the charmed life of having easy access to the “USUAL” Monaco madness. Too many here, based on reading posts for 15 years are in my boat. My “white” panel was put in my an 800 pound trained mammal. It has to be warped with the strength of an “ATLAS”. Most folks that have issues must pull it out. But even after removing all the peripherals, then it has to be bent and wedged in.
I know maybe 5 or so Camelot owners…..one or two finally got a weight lifter or such to bend it….and the others split it with a saw and then reconnected with s plastic or aluminum strap or plate.
I used my phone (technically in today’s vernacular “up skirt” and saw the whole mess. One of these days, I’ll use my probe or spy cam and video it. Ease pr access and Serviceability are not terms to be used.
That is why, I adamantly use a washing machine screen filter and flush my hose and the faucet prior to hookup…
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3 hours ago, Mark B said:
So in my case Tom, I kept the "Boost" connection to the relay between the house and Chassis batteries. I'm not sure if my BIRD was set up as a bidirectional relay from the start or it was not working. So here is what I have: The House batteries are charged from my inverter charger when plugged into shore power. The coach battery is charged by the AMP-L-Start (DC to DC charger) as you say stealing power from the coach battery. I have lithium coach batteries and the AMP-L-Start has a dip switch for that configuration. However, I have found that the AMP-L-Start can sometimes be unreliable so I added a NOCO 3 amp charger that is plugged into my block heater receptacle in the engine compartment and I can turn it on and off from the switch up front. It will still charge when I'm on the inverter so I don't want that. The NOCO is connected to the coach battery. The Orion (DC to DC charger) is connected to the circuit coming from the alternator and limits the current draw to 30 amps for charging the house battery bank.
My system has been solid since I added the NOCO charger. I thought I might have had some circular charging between the two battery banks but I don't think that was the case in the end.
So basically I can charge both my batteries from multiple sources depending on whether I'm plugged in or not. I also have 700 watts of solar on my roof as well.
Cool. Well stated. Functional for you and you know the caveats.
As to the question. If you look at the prints or follow the circuits, the OEM BIRD system was SORT if a BiDirectional….and could if you wanted, be reconfigured easily again since it doesn’t look “gutted”. The system worked thusly.
On Shore….the Chassis was NOT charged. They had a “thief” in there. Now, others will differ….and I don’t know the reliability of every one of the knock offs. They all work the same,…but, as you said….some have issues. So that is my take and reliability, plus not particularly liking the “thief” is a pet peeve.
OK…driving DOWN the highway, IF you reconnected the solenoid or “Relay” wire back to the Bosch Relay, which is also the same relay that powers your boost, you would charge the House Bank.
I am currently working with Todd to determine how his BIRD module works….as I THINK that Intellitec updated it, in subsequent versions, so that is works like mine. Mine is a TRUE BIRD. BUT….Will the White Rogers solenoid function with a 3 VDC Pulsed signal. THAT is the real issue. IF NOT….then it probably makes more sense, assuming you or Todd did want the robust BIRD charging to install the ML-ACR. Cost wise….the same or less that the combined outlay of the latest version of the BIRD module and the Intellitec Big Boy that is designed to work with it,
Again…thanks,,,
2 hours ago, jacwjames said:Go back and look at Mark's first post with pictures, it shows the BIRD & Lambert maintainer. This is what I was looking at when I made the comments and then comparing to the photos that Todd posted.
Mark's second post shows the modes he's done to include the solar charger and the trickle charger.
YES….I was doing that when you posted. My comments are there and the information is helpful….and I understand the system…..as I did early on. Todd’s works….or we are testing.
Mark”s could be restored….should he desire.
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5 minutes ago, Michael Powell said:
Does anybody have a better replacement option???
Not exactly SURE what you mean by REPLACEMENT OPTION. Some folk would "kill" to have them installed. You know, I presume, that you can switch to LED, even higher output if desired. We don't have a LOT of posts or issues where the fixture or such breaks....or if so, very infrequently.
There are many OPTIONS for adding a reading light....but if there is NOT Power and the switch is inconvenient....BUMMER. The most common approach is to add one above. NOW, that depends if it is Passenger or Driver and whether or not there is an overhead compartment with a lower bottom.... easy to add a battery powered LED....maybe not high tech or "smart phone controlled" but more than adequate for the intended use.
Amazon and CW have many options. check them out... Amazon... RV interior light or "flex" or gooseneck might be added.
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1 minute ago, 96 EVO said:
Stopped travelling with the water pump on many years ago after reading a thread on IRV.
Owner of a brand spanking new, top of the line Tiffin, on it's maiden voyage! Owner didn't know anything was wrong till his first stop, a wave of about 50gal of fresh water rushed to the front of the coach 😮!
That's a BIG 10-4, BUDDY.
Never leave on the water pump whilst driving. Turn on and off if someone is cooking or needs to wash their hands when MH is moving. Just chiming in and PILING ON to a good piece of advice...
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23 minutes ago, saflyer said:
OK, I'll keep looking for it but not exactly sure where to look.
OK... using your cell phone UNDER the panel where the FILL VALVE is...so you can see behind....Shoot a Picture. Otherwise, a WISE investment (less than $30 ) is a SPY CAM with a 6 ft semi rigid probe. I changed out a heater fan in my GS's GF's Ford Escape last night. Had watched the YouTube and pulling apart plastic panels and such on a car is something that I will do...carefully and have experience on maybe 10 different cars over the years.
I had to use my camera to see WHERE the hidden one (in the rear and up) was and then guided my Torx bit into the recess.
If you had one of this....ODDS ARE...your Check Valve is attached to the City Fill Valve. That is how MOST Monaco's or at least the ones that I have read about or seen or such have. The system is simple. A standard Fill Valve is just a TWO WAY valve. Monaco attached a Check to the side of it. There was a guy out west that had cornered the market and bought up the OEM valves and the OEM Checks. Probably $30 total. He SOLD the completed OEM Monaco assembly for $85 or so. I passed.
He may STILL be out there or is listed on some OTHER forums.... not here, I think.
SO, do some detective work. Have you read the WATER section (6 or so...memory) in the manual. It usually has details. SOME manuals actually have a schematic at the end.
Your Manual, Research and Google will usually, in that order, solve 75% of the questions here.... Past that....then tap into the knowledge base here...
Let us know what you find during the "Exploratory" phase....
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22 minutes ago, Mark B said:
I have never tried starting the coach with the disconnect off. I have removed the old trickle charge system and added some other equipment as seen in the attached picture
OK...for the RECORD... The pictures verify that the Intellitec BIRD Diesel(maybe original...but who knows) is in place. But it is TOTALLY non functional. That means the BIRD SYSTEM or BiDirectional charging has been removed. The RELAY terminal on the Module is the OUTPUT to one of the BOSCH relays pictured. Which ever one....then goes to the BOOST or the White Rodgers Solenoid.
That relay is wired thusly... If you read the previous post with pin numbers, that is explained.
IF the BOOST switch works...then all the OP or whomever did was disable the BIRD. The BIRD output (RELAY Terminal) goes to that Relay. BUT that Relay is also the CONTROL relay for the White Rodgers.
AS USUAL....interesting. NOTE that the Generator Terminal is used. Todd's is NOT.
FWIW,
I sent Todd a sheet so he can measure voltages. We, Frank and myself, need this so we can help others. That will answer the questions.
MY INTERPRETATION....from your comments. The ORIGINAL Windsor did NOT have a "Trickle" charger. It had a THIEF system. That was a device that bled power off the House (assuming there was AC power) and then charged the Chassis Battery. On the OEM Windsor circuit....that function was NOT available... I can't remember the device's brand name...but Amp - L - Start or such are out there and being used... As long as there is POWER and the House is being Charged...then it will siphon off and charge the Chassis. There is a PCB and a few Diodes to keep it from stealing power and draining the House.
Your Orion-Tr-Smart is a variation of that....if I read correctly. I am ASSUMING that you have it wired so that the Alternator puts out a signal or is used for POWER. Then you can add the House and you will get or siphon off charging current for the Chassis...
There appears to be many configurations or uses. Is that how you are using it.
Most folks, when the hear or read "Trickle" charger on the site think... an AC powered, low output (usually 2 or so amps) charger that will maintain the Chassis and NOT overcharge it or damage it.
Could you elaborate on how you have it configured and what it does or is intended to do....
We all learn....
Thanks...
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WHAT brand is the up front Monitor? I do NOT have an Aladdin...so my REAR backup is displayed on the monitor that was also supplied by same vendor. Monaco use ZONE DEFENSE in the Camelots (2009 and such) as they DROPPED the Aladdin tie in.
There are OTHERS that were used.
NOW....the RIGHT TURN signal, I was TOLD by Zone....who did a LOT of "warranty work" at their shop....some 25 miles South of Tampa....is a COMMON problem.
Their SYSTEM....which they said was a "hodge podge" works like this.
Monaco ran the cables to the FRONT LEFT....then they had to be "mated" or connected at some "JOINT" up and under the front cap. That JOINT was a MONACO install...and NOT a ZONE item. The Joint will fail...as in get water or just sort of shake loose. When the RIGHT camera goes squirrely, Zone would isolate the joint....take apart the connectors and do some "MAGIC" and restore it and all was well.
I have NEVER heard that "story" posted here. BUT, I had to swap out a warranty camera and also have a "extended" warranty power supply fixed on my monitor....both of which cost me ZILCH. Their techs were GREAT. One was Butch (probably dead) but a younger on also. They seemed to be knowledgable...and knew exactly, in THEIR system, where the intermittent occurred and the fix. NOW that MIGHT not be the configuration with all models....but my take and recollection. The LEFT to RIGHT cable connection was built in or was standard in all Monaco's AND regardless of Vendor....it was there. BUT....maybe the cables on mine were too short and required the joint.
Mine does it once and a while...and I shudder...but it is not bad enough to go digging.
You MIGHT find out, by pulling, the camera manufacturer. Then talk to them. ALSO...look at the connections for the REAR camera. Somewhere...I THINK, at least on mine it was the old RED/WHITE/YELLOW cable. The camera had audio and they used that. R/W/Y is called COMPOSITE. If you have an older, smaller TV around the house...it MIGHT have the same inputs. SO, take it out there....you might need a "patch or extension" cable. Hook it up. WORKS.. Camera OK. Doesn't... Cabling or bad camera...
IF you have a source...you can test it. DON'T LAUGH... THERE should be connectors on the camera in the back....I pulled mine out. R/W/Y...
AS to REV.... We are "LEGACY" models in their data base. That means....we have PRINTS....maybe....but our techs don't know squat. There ARE a few parts out there that REV is stocking. Weird stuff as well as common and still in use. Price is usually 5 times that from other vendors. The TRICK... Figure out the CORRECT PN. SOME folks have the ORIGINAL Monaco PN....which is, of all things, buried in the REV data base...so if you call in....sometimes they can find it. We HAVE had members post the REV PN and sure enough...REV will sell it and it is in STOCK...
SO much for a summation of 15 years of HISTORY...
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Frank McElroy and I have been "discussing" and such the Blue Seas ML-ACR. This pertained to how "EASY" if might be for a less than "Journeyman Tech" or a seemingly Novice, from electronics and electrical perspective to install.
The main caveat was that there had to be a multi pair (2) wire run or cable between the ML-ACR and the front so that the, included in the retail unit, Boost/Control Switch could be properly installed.
Having to run a separate or additional wire has been a concern....as to the "fun of doing that" by some members.
However, today, based on the discussion that Frank and I have been having, and a long conversation with Blue Seas has prompted this general information post.
Attached is the Blue Seas "Install" instructions.
https://d2pyqm2yd3fw2i.cloudfront.net/files/resources/instructions/980035700-001-ML-ACRs.pdf
Frank will be adding this to our files for convenience.
From a simplistic standpoint, the remote switch, which is included on all "Retail Units" should be mounted up front. The single existing wire or lead to the rear can be used for terminal 2, RED. The other 2 amp fused "up front" wire is connected to terminal 8 and jumpered to terminal 3.
However, at this point it is NOT absolutely essential that the Yellow #7 Wire be available. The switch will work and turn ON and OFF the unit. BUT, there is a also a second function, other than "an indicator light" for the Yellow wire. It is a "Feedback" wire for the trouble or error codes or "OK STATUS" of the unit. The tech said that....as long as there were no "faults or abnormalities", it was NOT essential...but HIGHLY recommended.
Thus, a second wire is needed.
Other that running this wire, there is a work around for the majority of 2006....and maybe some 2005 Monaco Motor homes.
IF YOU ARE NOT USING THE INFAMOUS TRAILER BRAKE CONTROL FEATURE.
which was prewired and installed in most of the 2005....and definitely all 2006, then this wire can be used.
I have included prints and pictures as well as the "PIN OUTS" on the Trailer Brake Controller Plug. There MAY have been a different plug used circa early 2005...but this is the one used, consistently, since 2006.
BTW....the INFAMOUS Blue WIRE for the control wire is SUPPOSED to be pin 2 or the "4:30" lower RIGHT pin LOOKING INTO the 7 Pin rear receptacle.
If you look at the M-66 Controller Print, PIN #2 is the NOT TERMINATED up front wire or the control wire that runs to the rear to the PIN 2 of the 7 Pin....or what is commonly called the BLUE WIRE.
This would be the SPARE, UNSUED, INSTALLED and AVAILABLE wire to use as the YELLOW LED/Indicator circuit.
Hope this helps
38061113 (Schematic, Plug, Trailer, 7 Pin).pdf 38060870 M-66 2006 Exec Brake Controller.pdf
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9 hours ago, timaz996 said:
Wow, that is nothing like mine. These coaches are truly snowflakes.
YES.... They do seem to be "unique". However, from spending half of my career in "LINE" manufacturing and having to retool or make revise over 100 stations for a model year change... IT HAPPENS.
If you really want to understand the "construction" of your motorhome, the best resource is to download from Monaco or Holiday Rambler the "Sales Brochure". That discusses, maybe vaguely, the construction of the walls and floor and ceiling.
Almost understand the evolution of manufacturing. As time passed, there were more advances in how to reduce costs. I worked in a boat factory during the summer... We always "laid up" the hull using different layers of fiberglass and also type (Mat, Rovin Wovin and Cloth). The owner went to a show and bought a "CHOPPER GUN". It cut fiberglass strands and spit them out impregnated with resin. One man could, properly trained, do the hull in maybe 3 hours for a small fishing boat compared for maybe a day or so with 2 guys. Structurally, based on testing, the chopper gun method was stronger. THUS....we converted...
I don't pretend to be the expert on many of the "construction" details...but I had to repair a "major dent and void" in the underlayment of my BED slide. Chris Throgmartin was just testing the Guardian plates and had never seen my failure. We talked... I cut a small "hole" and cored the bottom. He consulted with a friend that worked in the Elkhart factory. We both learned about how the floor was laid out in a grid with "perlines" for strength and such... They had, memory of what I was told, a large laminating operation where the sandwich was two layers (top and bottom) and then the grid or perlines randomly spaced and it was then foamed. I THOUGHT that maybe it was a "Vacuum Forming" operation....
That was way different from the early days were the panels were closer to "residential" construction.
YES...one never knows what to expect in any exterior surface.... BUT the true "SNOWFLAKE" is a MH built by Crew A and the one behind it built by Crew B... They are identical...all the "STANDARD RUN" items....exactly the same "Build and MSRP" Sheet... save color. ONE MH will start, with the Chassis Battery Disconnect OFF... The OTHER....NOPE... We have just had a topic that delved into that very subject.
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If not used, tires last for 6-10 years, depending on the storage and environmental conditions. Overall, the time limits for stored tires are much the same as for tires that are being used. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) and official manufacturers suggest a tire is only 100% safe to use until it turns 5-6 years old. However, some admit that a tire can be operable up to 10 years if you check it for issues annually after the 5th year.
After five years or more in use, your tires should be thoroughly inspected at least once per year by a professional. If the tires haven't been replaced 10 years after their date of manufacture, as a precaution, Michelin recommends replacing them with new tires.
The above comes from Michelin. Many have stated the common sense and generally accepted standards. Suggest that you contact Michelin for a more complete technical answer.
Bottom line, these tire are unsafe at any speed....to paraphrase Mr. Nader. It is NOT RECOMMEND that you run them. The decision, as well as the liability, is yours, but if there were an accident and the public information posted here was used in the due diligence of a legal proceeding, then there may be issues of "validity of coverage" from your insurance carrier due to knowingly installing or having improper or unsafe components on the vehicle.
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Edited title for clarity.
If you read the manual, there are a number of devices, some option, some standard that are 12 VDC powered in the "Entertainment or Informational" center. If this is essential, then using the House Fuse Panel and a Toner on each fuse should easily trace the circuit.
If you determine what it is or what it is for, please advise.
Monaco often dot matrix printed a label on their harnesses. Have you examined the the white wire or exposed enough of it under the video switcher to see if it is labeled?
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8 minutes ago, Benjamin said:
Good point, diaphragm pumps will suck air and self prime eventually. A dry centrifugal pump will never pump the air out and will burn out the seals. A diaphragm pump includes the check valves in the pump. Also, a centrifugal pump is typically a higher speed so won't produce full output until it reaches full speed, and will keep producing some output as it slows, the diaphragm pump works ok turning on for a couple seconds at a time. As far as I know, RV's and small yard/farm sprayers are the two main uses of these style diaphragm pumps, and diaphragm pumps make up the majority of water pumps in these markets.
YES....to the above. Practically. NOPE. The ORIGINAL AquaTech RV55 had a built in CHECK VALVE. When Remco bought the rights....NO CHANGE. Maybe 2 years ago. The Remco RV55 NO LONGER HAS A CHECK VALVE. WHY? Speculation. They sell these pumps in BULK to manufacturers. MANY of the manufacturers are installing a CHECK VALVE. No need for a DOUBLE CHECK.
SO, Remco DROPPED the Check Valve. They do NOT have a WITH or WITHOUT part number. You order the simple little drop in check valve assembly as an OPTION. Pop it in when you install....it is NOW the same ORIGINAL RV55.. That assumes of course that the pump is the same. Remco bought the pumps from AquaTec for years. HAVE they outsourced it to a land far away? NO IDEA
BUT, if you order a NEW Remco RV55....you need, on a Monaco MH, to add in the "accessory" check valve. There is a LONG topic on this...
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That logic is also used, almost 99% on all the steps. FWIW. I always keep mine extended.....until I turn on the ignition and they retract. Others prefer that the open and close every time the door is opened or closed...which I think causes premature failure as the motor only has so many "cycles"....
In that mode....when the door is opened....assuming ignition OFF, they extend....stay extended....and only cycle with the ignition switch.
That's the logic....
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2 hours ago, RNMCBR said:
I’ve used 3m VHB on two different coaches over about 12 years. I find it to be more than adequate for holding down solar panels. I have done a lot of driving in very high winds in the southwest with no indication whatsoever of any of my mounts coming loose. I currently have 12 100Watt panels mounted with it. I am using 4 “L” brackets per panel with a footprint of 2 square inches VHB each, and with Dichor sealant over the top to seal the attachment. I have tested the bond and agree with what AM solar told me: “you will likely tear a hole in your roof trying to pull the panels off”.
3m also makes a primer that will accelerate the cure of the adhesive. I used that for the last 4 panels I installed and think it helped develop a good bond.
I know some folks would rather use fasteners and I am sure that is as good or better than the 3m tape. But I don’t want to have a bunch of screw holes penetrating my roof especially since they only go into the thin luan underlayment.
Each person should decide what attachment they prefer, but I just wanted to share my experience with the VHB tape.
Good luck
Great information. Thanks. Just be aware that there at least TWO different types of the "Generic 3M VHB" double stick. The spec sheet says that the thinner CLEAR has better "peel" or holding strength. However, it is recommended for flat surfaces....where the thicker "black" emblem tape might give a better bond of a slightly rougher surface.
Personal experience, like Roy posted. If you ever had a factory double sided gasket peel off. Use WD-40 on both the MH and the rubber gasket and peel off all the OLD or residual adhesive. Sometimes a little Acetone will help. It will not hurt, on a cloth, either surface. Then... THOROUGHLY wash with a soap like a little Dawn in a bowl....rinse and dry.
THEN... Right before you apply, use a cloth with a little acetone on both surfaces. This acts as a primer in that it activates the surfaces. Then apply and mount. It will HOLD as long, presumably, until the proverbial bovines come home.
I would use that technique, including the acetone activation, on any solar bracket that I mounted.
Good Luck.
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6 minutes ago, tmw188 said:
I’m in the middle of cleaning up my house battery tray so I can reinstall the batteries. I will confirm charging is active while motor is running and on gen.
No RUSH. We need to talk. If you do the tests, then we will have an answer to a mystery that is really important and will allow folks, especially, the Moderators, to give a more comprehensive and accurate answer to some things that always pop up. This is how we learn and folks that will do the testing are a valuable resource....wear safety glasses... LOL...
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48 minutes ago, jacwjames said:
Prior to this post I was convinces that the Lambert 415 had failed and the previous owner improvised a solution.
After reading your post and talking to Todd I'm thinking that the changes that were made did exactly as you describe. He now has a full BIRD system with the only caveat is that the generator sense wire has been disconnected.
Jim,
Todd and I have been exchanging PM more that a politician and his campaign manager. The GIST...
Todd has the OEM Intellitec Module. 00-00365-00. I can NOT find any details on it. He does NOT, I think, have a FULL BIRD system... The prints are hard to come by....and Monaco did a lousy JOB.
The Genny sense was not used....or maybe someone pulled it off. It was a "UH-OH" rethink or maybe the later BIRD Modules didn't need it. The ones that were used circa 08 did NOT need it. There were some later Windsors, 2004 for sure as Richard (Dr4Film) sent me his schematic and It was in use, I think then. BUT, that Module MAY have been a revised one. There appears to be at least 5 or more "REVS" of the Diesel2. ONE of them actually changed the software program...Thanks to Frank's research. They ALL have the IGNITION... but that was for consistency.
OK....more than you want to KNOW. The original one like TODD has was only a RUNNING Bird System and did NOT charge the Chassis when parked and ON AC. BUT, the later models had a timer in them....and then the "IGNITION" terminal was bypassed after maybe 2 minutes or so.. THEN, the Module closed and started charging the Chassis. SO, my approach to change the INPUT might not work.
The NEXT THING... The OUTPUT signal. or the RELAY contact. Once Monaco and Intellitec switched to the Intellitec Big Boy, then the voltage to the Coil was pulsed. Mine is pulsed and will read 3 - 4 or so. THAT is correct....100% on that....as I got that from several conversations with the ORIGINAL Intellitec Support guy, who passed away and was NOT replaced.
Frank know the Dynasty system from head to tails. The Proprietary #6 board on them send out a PULSED 8 or so VDC signal. Therefore the coil is getting twice the current as mine. That makes them run HOT....too HOT to wrap your hand around....it will BURN. That is NORMAL. Design questions on that....call Intellitec. Frank and I only KNOW how it works and the differences....but why Intellitec did it that way.... GOD ONLY KNOWS. Mine does NOT make a LOUD HUM (as in a Pulsed signal...as the voltage is lower)... the Dynasties DO...that is a Troubleshooting assist.
OK....having said all that. I plan to set up a simple grid so Todd can test his system. ODDS ARE...it will work like he says or thinks.
BUT...WHY ALL THE NEED. Because... The Newer Intellitec Diesel2 are a Pulsed 3 - 4 VDC Output. IF his older one is a constant 3 - 4 VDC....and his White Rogers works....GREAT. BUT, if his older one is a full 12 VDC, NON PULSED....then if he replaced it....with the newer model....they don't make the older ones any more. PROBLEMATICO... He would have to ALSO replace the White Rogers with a Intellitec Big Boy (200 Amp). NOW....will the OEM White Rogers WORK with a low (3 - 4 VDC Pulsed coil voltage)..... I HAVEN'T a clue. Maybe White Rogers knows....maybe it is in the Tech Spec. I don't have that.
SO....before Todd makes any changes.....he or WE as in I am helping him, needs to know what is happening NOW and then make the call. IF he needed to replace the OLD Diese2....maybe $100. Then throw in the $250 for the Big Boy.
AT THAT POINT....I totally agree with your former post.....ML-ACR TIME.
OK...I spent a LOT of time this morning on the phone with Frank. We concluded and he confirmed.... You CAN MAKE the ML-ACR WITH REMOTE Package WORK....without RUNNING an additional wires. It will NOT BE FULL FUNCTION....but you can use the BOOST and turn it ON AND OFF using the Blue Seas supplied switch. It takes only TWO WIRES from the ML-ACR to the new, up front switch. The second wire is the LED or TELL ME THE MODE light. The switch will switch...
Hope this helps
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WELL as they say... THAT DEPENDS. The 3M CLEAR VBH is about 20% or so, based on the 3M tech sheets than the thicker black rubber (Emblem adhesive). It is used for door plates...and the package says.. WARNING....you will MAR the surface...
OK...on the ROOF? I am a Ex Chief Engineer for a fastener company...so I would go with something Mechanical. My Monaco OEM was screwed down. BUT, that is also a potential leak point. Mine has small brackets. Maybe 1" wide...an angle or bent...and the base (on the roof) was 3/4" or so and it stuck up maybe 1 1/2".
IF I were doing it....easy choice. I'd use SS Pop RIVETS. They will stay with you.
BUT....you can use Rubber WELL NUTS (Amazon) like they use on Kayaks...
BUT....This seems to be the best. I have used them...being an old pop river fanatic. They worked great holding down hardware on my Kayak. This one is large Flat Head. Comes in all styles and heads and possibly SS. If you can find these in SS, I'd go for it. Then you screw into the panel.
I LIKE ProFlex and also DiCor 501SWL. The DiCor levels and spreads more. It is the closest to the original GeoCel that was used over the fasteners on the roof.
Good Luck...
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23 minutes ago, Jetjockey said:
Are all pumps diaphragm type or are some centrifugal.? My motorhome has great water flow regardless of how many faucets are open. The pump speeds up as more are opend.
Picture, Brand & Model please. MONACO switched to the AquaTech RV 55 in the early to mid 90’s. REMCO eventually acquired all rights to it. It is the predominant one here…..for replacement….BUT some use Surflo….mostly their low and high ends are DIAPHRAGM.
A deep well home water pump is centrifugal. Has to be. A diaphragm pump is used as trash water or contractor’s pump or RV. It basically move a lot of water….but it doesn’t have any or very little lift. Yes, you can buy, if you research, a centrifugal pump for an RV. NEED a pressure switch and an accumulator or “expansion” tank.
Diaphragms did away with external switch and tank….easier to install. Less wiring. Better performance.
That’s my read….as usual, others might or will differ….but the bulk of the folks here or use probably, diaphragm…..but…some others like centrifugal…..rarely discussed….but sometimes a comment or recommendation pops up….
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All I know is second hand, but I helped a friend get his 2007 Valid on his Dynasty…FIXED. Background was “he had an air issue”. Drove to Florida to Josams. They fixed his air leaks and found the compressor was KAPUT. Put in a hew compressor and air system is 100%. Josams has one or two “Monaco” specialized techs….long time employees and GOOD.
They THOUGHT all his valves had mositure issues…. The PO had, ss part of the deal, had a local tech install a NEW control “box”….but it never was “quite right”….and they blamed the “MH Air system….
OK….Josam’s did NOT overnight the “box”. So, they started replacing a valve. Second new valve….NO JOY. So, Mike, the tech spent about 30 minites on the phone, back and forth….then the Valid suport tech said….
START FROM SCRATCH. Pulled out the control or maybe unplugged it and let it “drain” off any furbar gremlins. Then hooked it back up. The tech took 20 minutes, as I was told, to do a complete FACTORY RESET…..as the first tech was obviously in…way over his head,
THEN…..all was well. There is, I was told, a setup routine….where you go through and set it up exactly the way Monaco did on the factory floor,
That was 2 years ago. NADA a minutes trouble since then….
I do NOT know if Valid will offer that level of tech support to an end user. BUT…from what I was told….there was a “self diagnostics” in the hard reset and if there were issues with Ground or Circuit issues….they would have been identified. There was NOT, I recall, any “hook up a laptop” ….just a knowledgeable tech in the MH and a good support person….
I saw my writeup and post just a few minutes ago. Wonder why the search didn’t cartch it?
That’s just what happened….real world….with a good company….
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7 hours ago, Rocketman3 said:
Hello everyone,
on my 2000 Dynasty, while traveling I noticed my ladder supports
Has broke/unscrewed from the rig. The supports bar has not twisted.
Before I started disassembling, I was wondering if anyone knows how that attaches. Do I need a new support bar because something broke inside? Or just retighten it up?
thanks
Please use the search function as requested. There must be 10 separate topics. Ladders were or were not sometimes used on several models….
OK….
THIS search….Dynasty Ladder…..then selecting “topics” from the “EVERYWHERE” drop down as 20 hits….some relevant….some not
LADDER only….how about 10 pages….and some were older Dynasty specific
Hope this hekps you get the specific and hands on info you need.
keep us posted….as to vendors and what you do. Many are about how to properly attach or things folks have tried to prevent a reoccurrence….as well as where to find new hardware….the parts list has an entire section on “ladders”. Use the Adobe “Find” and LADDER…
Good luck
08 dynasty thermostat issue
in AC, Heating, and Cooling
Posted
Too much verbiage…. My fault. Each system is unique. The manual shows TWO thermostats. OK….you got ONE.
SO…simple. Data cable starts at the Thermostat. Runs to the front. Then, presumably to the middle. It MAY loop down into that rabbit hole called Zone 4….then back to the Bedroom. The HIDDEN device is a Standalone Controller. There is NO HIDDEN THERMOSTAT….just a BURIED Controlled. There will be THREE “wall” or under counter “REMOTE TEMPERATURE SENSORS. The front Thermostat is USUALLY the one for the front. Now JUST TO DRIVE YOU CRAZY….SOME Patriot Thunders ( a Dynasty Clone)….actually had an UP FRONT remote temp sensor….so the MAIN Thermostat got a reading from each one.
OK….now be ready to learn SOME MORE.
If you call Dometic and say….HELP ME….it don’t work….then tell them you do NOT have a complete Dometic system….as in the OEM 5 Button Thermostat….they will say. Sorry…..we only offer help for a Dometic system.
Call MicroAir….tell them NO WORK. Sorry, we do NOT know or provide help on a NON FUNCTIONAL Dometic control system. Your existing Dometic system MUST be functional. YES… I called and asked…. We have had Members that had a MicroAir. One unit failed. The MicroAir folks said….send back (still under warranty). The member was sharp enough and followed the help here. OPPS. He had a FAILED controller.
NOW, that you have given out MORE information….I would proceed as follows.
Remove the Thermostat. You’re gonna replace it anyway or maybe NOT. ASSUMING you have power to the fuse….and we don’t know that. Here is the way.
Go UP TOP….rear UNIT. Follow the wiring. Find the INCOMING 12 VDC. MEASURE and VERIFY that you have 12 VDC there. Then unplug, downstairs, both cables. Mark the mating ones if you want….does NOT matter.
Then….Plug in the Thermostat to any of the two CONTROLLER cables (NOT the ones connecting the zones. NOW reset the Thermostat per instructions. If it WORKS…..NOT A THERMOSTAT issue.
OK….keep going. Pull the control unit out, take it to the front. Take a picture of the DIP switches….and set the REAR ONE just like the Front. Go downstairs. Plug in the Thermostat like in the rear. If it works….bad controller. IF NOT….something is wrong in the AC unit…and if you can’t figure it out….call or get a tech.
You have to isolate which component is bad….and until you do the above, you are guessing as well as getting frustrated.
Texted you and will help off line
r