Take a good look at your Cummins ISX oil pan

[Ivylog]

Posted in October about replacing my ISX oil pan after cracking a corner...bad oil leak. Got around to cleaning it up (remove JB weld and fiberglass patch) and it had dragged multiple times and there was even a star shaped crack in the middle of the bottom. Had a local metal working shop weld it up in multiple places.

 The first picture is the corner repair that was cracked in 3 directions. The multiple beads is to build it up where its dragged before cracking it. 2nd is the crack in the middle and you can see where it’s dragged before...upper part of the picture. 3rd picture is inside and the actual lengths of the cracks.

I’m going to increase my rear ride height to 10+ inches in the hopes that stops it from dragging.

Edited November 13, 2020 by Ivylog

[Paul J A]

9 minutes ago, Ivylog said:

Posted in October about replacing my ISX oil pan after cracking a corner...bad oil leak. Got around to cleaning it up (remove JB weld and fiberglass patch) and it had dragged multiple times and there was even a star shaped crack in the middle of the bottom. Had a local metal working shop weld it up in multiple places.

 The first picture is the corner repair that was cracked in 3 directions. The multiple beads is to build it up where its dragged before cracking it. 2nd is the crack in the middle and you can see where it’s dragged before...upper part of the picture. 3rd picture is inside and the actual lengths of the cracks.

I’m going to increase my rear ride height to 10+ inches in the hopes that stops it from dragging.

How did the weld shop determine the aluminum alloy specification in the oil pan? The selection process for the weld filler metal would be interesting too. Valuable information for anyone who has this damage to repair in the future. You may want to consider a "skid plate" on the bottom.  

[Xlr8ting1]

   I've made ground contact with my stamped steel pan on the ISM too. The drain plug has a new angle on it.  In fact I've bent the 5" flex pipe that crosses the pan a few times. Pulled it clean off the turbo as well. There have been times where I wound up crossing a swale with too much depth. Could not always cross at an angle. After the second time, I thought I should remedy the situation. I installed a couple of rollers on the rear hitch, which only helped a small amount. The big fix was having a pair of large rollers and saddles fabricated and installed in the vertical pockets in the rear frame where some motorhomes have their leveling jacks. Mine has the air bag leveling system, so that seemed like a good place for them. I set the height by a stringline from bottom of the tag axle tire to the very back. I set and bolted the roller height where the they would impact ground before the the exhaust pipe or the lowest part of the pan. I have felt them touch on occasion, but sure am happy how they have saved the components. The setup has been on for a few years now and worked well. 

[Ivan K]

30 minutes ago, Xlr8ting1 said:

   I've made ground contact with my stamped steel pan on the ISM too. The drain plug has a new angle on it.  In fact I've bent the 5" flex pipe that crosses the pan a few times. Pulled it clean off the turbo as well. There have been times where I wound up crossing a swale with too much depth. Could not always cross at an angle. After the second time, I thought I should remedy the situation. I installed a couple of rollers on the rear hitch, which only helped a small amount. The big fix was having a pair of large rollers and saddles fabricated and installed in the vertical pockets in the rear frame where some motorhomes have their leveling jacks. Mine has the air bag leveling system, so that seemed like a good place for them. I set the height by a stringline from bottom of the tag axle tire to the very back. I set and bolted the roller height where the they would impact ground before the the exhaust pipe or the lowest part of the pan. I have felt them touch on occasion, but sure am happy how they have saved the components. The setup has been on for a few years now and worked well. 

Very interesting to me. Would you mind to share a picture of the setup if you have one? I have same situation with the ISM pan, so glad I never considered the Fumoto valve for that reason.

[Xlr8ting1]

Here's about the best shot I can get without parking it over the pit. All the air is out and its sitting level in its lowest position.

 

[Guest Ray Davis]

 Man , that's low , I don't want to be under there when the air comes out .   Gives a real clear view of the importance of safety when crawling around under   our coaches  😲 😬

 

[dl_racing427]

23 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

 Man , that's low , I don't want to be under there when the air comes out .   Gives a real clear view of the importance of safety when crawling around under   our coaches  😲 😬

 

So true!
NEVER, EVER get under a coach supported by air suspension or hydraulic jacks.  ALWAYS use mechanical locking jack stands capable of supporting the weight.
I've been saying this over and over, but some people just refuse to listen.  I pray we never hear of the outcome when something goes wrong.

I like the roller setup, looks like it should help.
Fortunately, my older Dynasty doesn't have this problem.  The line from the rear tires to the hitch prevents anything else from bottoming out.
I have drug the hitch a few times though.  The key is to go slow enough that if it drags you can stop and back up before inertia carrys you so far that you get hung up.

[Ivylog]

I think some rollers are in my future. Patching a oil pan on gravel, in the rain, after crossing a dip that didn’t register on the radar as a problem was not fun.