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Slideout stuck partially in. Can't move.


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When the big slideout in the bedroom reaches it's travel limit going in or out, there is a ratcheting sound. This is normal. Clutch disengagement I'm presuming.

Today, when attempting to move it in to travel, it began to move but there was the ratcheting sound which should not have occurred. It traveled a few inches and stopped. Then, I tried to move it back out. It moved ever so slightly with the same abnormal ratcheting sound and stopped again.

My trouble shooting has found that the shear pin is fine. The motor and associated drive assembly are ok. Using a mirror, here is no obstruction where the gear engages the track. There is no obstruction to the movement of the slideout. In other words, it should be operating normally.

I'm convinced the problem is the clutch is disengaging when it should not. This comes from more trouble shooting that I'm not detailing now for brevity. 

It makes sense that the clutch could weaken with time. However, I don't recall any discussions here about this in the past.

I'm hoping there is a way to adjust the clutch without having to replace it?

Of course, I  needed to be on the road today because of appointments tomorrow and Wednesday. Stuck in the Phoenix heat! Need to get to the mountains! 

Thanks in advance for any help.

Gary K

06' Windsor

 

 

 

IMG_20210531_085012.jpg

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I also have a 09 Knight and was told to us a ratchet and socket on the shaft with the cotter pin. Never done it though.

This gear might be the issue!

D36C4248-0DBA-4F11-98AF-83034A164AEF.jpeg

Edited by Gary M
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I had a similar situation with my bedroom slide.

The nylon rollers mounted to the floor had dug into the wood runners on the bottom of the slide pedestal causing it not to roll smoothly. I ordered SS plates from Talin RV and mounted them to the wood runners. So now the side moves in and out 99% easier. I also had Talin RV mount SS skid plates to the underside on the outside of the slide as the rollers mounted up high on the ledge were digging into the very thin sheet of aluminum covering the bottom of the slide.

Now when the slide goes in or out I will get maybe one "bump" or hesitation on the drive mechanism before it is either all the way out or in. When the slide reaches those limits I will hear a bump or two then I quickly release the slide switch button.

That bumping noise is simply the nylon gear bouncing on the drive.

Edited by Dr4Film
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5 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

I had a similar situation with my bedroom slide.

The nylon rollers mounted to the floor had dug into the wood runners on the bottom of the slide pedestal causing it not to roll smoothly. I ordered SS plates from Talin RV and mounted them to the wood runners. So now the side moves in and out 99% easier. I also had Talin RV mount SS skid plates to the outside underside of the slide as the rollers mounted up high on the ledge were digging into the very thin sheet of aluminum covering the bottom of the slide.

Now when the slide goes in or out I will get maybe one "bump" or hesitation on the drive mechanism before it is either all the way out or in. When the slide reaches those limits I will hear a bump or two then I quickly release the slide switch button.

  The Monaco service center in Elkhart, In. did ours FREE of charge back in 2007. Very common issue and was more noticeable as full timers like "we" were.

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49 minutes ago, throgmartin said:

Gary:

I take it you got the slide in ? 

 

On my original issue in 2017, 2018 and again in 2019 with hydraulic slides. Oops! Your probably talking to Gary K not me.

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To all who responded.

Got slideout under control but long long story.

I want to share with all of you because much learned about what to do and what not to do.

I'll write detailed report as soon as possible.

Thank you.

Gary K

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8 hours ago, a4epilot said:

To all who responded.

Got slideout under control but long long story.

I want to share with all of you because much learned about what to do and what not to do.

I'll write detailed report as soon as possible.

Thank you.

Gary K

Glad you got it in Captain. I was damn glad I could reach Dustin. Even I learned a couple things from Dustin on that slide assembly.

Only a Naval Aviator would call a Marine on a Holiday. 🙂

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3 hours ago, throgmartin said:

Glad you got it in Captain. I was damn glad I could reach Dustin. Even I learned a couple things from Dustin on that slide assembly.

Only a Naval Aviator would call a Marine on a Holiday. 🙂

Sounds like a problem for the Chaplain! Since when are there any Holidays for Marines? In the Navy everyday is the same. Always at the ready! You're getting soft. Enough of your sniveling! 😝😥

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3 hours ago, throgmartin said:

Glad you got it in Captain. I was damn glad I could reach Dustin. Even I learned a couple things from Dustin on that slide assembly.

Only a Naval Aviator would call a Marine on a Holiday. 🙂

Sounds like a problem for the Chaplain! Since when are there any Holidays for Marines? In the Navy everyday is the same. Always at the ready! You're getting soft. Enough of your sniveling! 😝😥

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OK, here's my story regarding the slide out.

I was able to move it manually using a 3/8" socket wrench on the fitting clearly visible in my posted photo. It has a large pin through a hole in the shaft keeping it in place. It takes a lot of time to move the slide this way but it works and one must be patient. After I had it about half way in, I decided why not use a variable speed drill to make it quicker and easier. BIG MISTAKE! It moved quickly for some distance then the fitting sheared off the shaft! 😭 Turns out the hole drilled through the shaft to accommodate the large pin leaves very little of the shaft to absorb the torque of a drill. BTW, Dustin, tech at Talin, told me later it will happen every time a power drill used.

So, now what. Slide half way in, shaft sheared so no way to move it manually! Then the fun began. Take the cover off the motor assembly, black unit with 4 Philips head screws shown in photo. The next part is too difficult to explain in detail but here's the end result. Was able to take the sheared shaft and weld on an extension then drill another hole for the locking pin (this time used a smaller diameter cotter pin to save more of the shaft), and replace the original  3/8" fitting for the manual wrench. Now, I could move the slide manually as before BUT using a socket wrench ONLY; no drill this time!

What I discovered when taking the gear assemble apart is the reason the slide did not move electrically even though the motor did spin is a classic case and will happen to all of them. Only a matter of time. There are 2 gears under that cover. One metal and the other plastic of some sort. The teeth will shear off the plastic gear so then it does not engage the metal gear and the slide does not move. When hand cranking, these gears are not used because the slide gear drive that engages the geared track is being directly driven. See photo.

When looking for a replacement motor assembly on Amazon this morning, I discovered a metal replacement gear for the plastic one for only $19. It would be an easy install and eliminate what happened to me and to everyone else eventually regarding the plastic gear failing. Here's the link: https://www.amazon.com/Lippert-Tuson-Slide-Venture-Motor/dp/B0833FN856/ref=pd_sbs_5/145-1627171-9225244?pd_rd_w=KBCHx&pf_rd_p=f8e24c42-8be0-4374-84aa-bb08fd897453&pf_rd_r=JH7B58AA2RB3CB9C1P3A&pd_rd_r=6cd221c1-e15e-4d8d-9f80-3fbb2508772f&pd_rd_wg=hthBr&pd_rd_i=B0833FN856&psc=1

I didn't go that route because I had another problem and that is the clutch slipping before the slide gets to the in and out limit of travel. Therefore, my clutch is worn and is a second problem. I did discover the clutch mechanism is part of the metal gear assembly. That is the ratcheting sound one hears at the travel limits.

So, if I installed the metal gear replacement for the existing plastic, I'd still have a problem with the clutch slipping which would put me back in the original situation of slide not moving electrically, reliably.

Next, was to find a replacement motor assembly. Chris T was good enough to return my call for help on Memorial Day. Typical of being a Marine, he passed it off to his tech, Dustin! 😂 Dustin called me within a short time on Memorial Day as well with some great info on the entire slide assembly. I was at their shop last Spring after traveling all the way from Phoenix to the Tampa area to have a significant amount of work done there. I did an extensive posting on my great experience with Chris, wife Ingrid, tech Dustin and his assistant. After leaving, I drove all the way back to Seattle, so 5000+ miles just to have them do the work!

Dustin told me to check Amazon for a motor and sent me a pic of a replacement he has. Turns out there are 2 choices: Original Lippert unit, $522 or AP Products Chinese unit for $336. 

https://www.amazon.com/Lippert-125802-Tuson-High-Speed/dp/B00S2IC0NC/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=RV+Lippert+Tuson+Slide+Out+Venture+Motor+18%3A1&qid=1622582548&s=automotive&sr=1-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFQMjNRUEFERzcyT1MmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA2MzM4ODExMzZWN1NPUUNURjdGJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA4MDg5NTczT1ZYT0xSUTZHSjMwJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

https://www.amazon.com/AP-Products-014-125802-9000-Speed/dp/B003D3IYMW/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=AP+125802+Tuson+High+Speed+18%3A1+Slide-Out+Motor+9000+RPM&qid=1622582741&s=automotive&sr=1-1

The specs for both show that the AP product is not as heavy or as powerful as the Lippert one. However, when reading reviews, the AP unit seems to be satisfactory. From my conversation with Dustin, I believe they use the AP unit when needing a replacement. If I am wrong, I hope Chris T will see this and correct me.

Accordingly, I order the AP unit this morning. Another consideration for this choice was the age of my coach; 2006. If the AP unit is not as reliable, I'll probably never know as certainly there are not another 16 years of coach life remaining.

So, there you have the entire story. As is always the case with motorhomes, one becomes a reluctant expert on another system on a regular basis it seems, Yes? 😱

If I can be of any additional help to anyone, let me know here or by DM and I'll do my best.

Gary K

"Fly Navy"

Edited by a4epilot
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Gary, since the slide-out motor is made by Lippert I am assuming that your entire slide mechanism is made by Lippert versus some other manufacturer, correct?

I am now wondering who made the bedroom slide in my 02 Windsor.

The two main slides in the front are both Power Gear Slides so I am assuming that the bedroom slide is also a Power Gear slide. However, Power Gear was bought out by Lippert so all the components are now under one roof.

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12 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

Gary, since the slide-out motor is made by Lippert I am assuming that your entire slide mechanism is made by Lippert versus some other manufacturer, correct?

I am now wondering who made the bedroom slide in my 02 Windsor.

The two main slides in the front are both Power Gear Slides so I am assuming that the bedroom slide is also a Power Gear slide. However, Power Gear was bought out by Lippert so all the components are now under one roof.

Yes, it's Lippert.

Gary K

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There are 2 motors available on Amazon. I went with the least expensive one for $336. It's the same one Talin RV (Chris T) uses. They put me on to it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003D3IYMW?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

The original motor supplied by Lippert does have the clutch built into the main gear in the motor assembly. I just installed the new motor built by AP Products in China. It does not have a clutch. I prefer this as it's one less thing to wear out as did mine. The motor simply stalls out when the slide reaches full travel in either direction. That's exactly what happens with my other slides.

Gary K

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Gary, I also prefer the operation of the two Power Gear slide motors used up front as they stall when reaching maximum travel with each direction. The bedroom slide is the only one that "bumps" when the slide decides to pause during travel or at each end going out or in.

Hopefully mine will continue to operate correctly however thanks to you I have some direction in replacing if needed.

Edited by Dr4Film
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