Cubflyer Posted August 5, 2021 Share Posted August 5, 2021 While out on the road for our first big trip in our new to us, 2003 HR Endeavor . At two different campsites the motor home power cut off. Working fine one minute, dead the next, nothing new turned on. We were plugged into 50 amp service both times. I checked that the plug was in the receptacle tight, unplugged and plugged in again, looked at the voltmeter and amp indicator back where the cable enters the coach. The voltages were un-even, like 109 and 120, amps were "0" and it may have been giving me an error code but I was too tired to write it down and just wanted to get some power on.... at the one campsite the power reset and came back, at the next we were just overnighting and I used a 110vac/15amp extension cord to power a portable battery charger and used the inverter to keep the frig and a medical device operating all night (probably could have just used my batteries but we were paying for power) Didn't need A/C It was about 11pm when things went south... Generator powered everything but we were in a campground so I did not run it long.... No circuit breakers were tripped inside or outside of the coach. Here's the question.... This coach has a IOTA ITS 50R transfer switch (for sure), Progressive Surge protector? and monitor system....?? Is this a sign of the IOTA going bad, or are things doing what they are supposed to and tripping off to protect the MH? Is this "normal" to have splits in the voltages on the two legs of 220vac 50 amp power and is this something common at RV parks? In the morning at the second place I asked neighbors if they had problems and they did not. Thoughts? Comments? Suggestions?? Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivylog Posted August 5, 2021 Share Posted August 5, 2021 (edited) No, there shouldn’t be that big of a difference in voltages…4-5 volts in the 115V range is OK. Your rig will automatically shut off the power when it gets below 108V to protect mainly the AC compressors…will reset after a minute +/-. Took me awhile to figure out it was the ice maker harvesting the ice (10 amp draw) at a rally on generator power that was shutting the power off. Yes it could be loose connections in the transfer switch… my understanding of what burns the IOTA up, but easy enough to check. Pull your 50A plug out enough that you can measure the voltage on both side lugs and compare to the readings inside. Edited August 5, 2021 by Ivylog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmw188 Posted August 5, 2021 Share Posted August 5, 2021 Your PI unit shut you down is my guess, doing its job. Your neighbors didn't have any issue if they didn't have a EMS to do it for them. Your coach was smarter. As for as the IOTA others will chine in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cubflyer Posted August 6, 2021 Author Share Posted August 6, 2021 Thanks for the test idea Dick, I would not have thought about that technique and I do carry a Fluke meter. Also the "108" min volts....I did not have a guess what the range should be. I have looked into the IOTA and it is not showing signs of heat damage and the connections are good and tight. Todd, "smart" coach... but dumb owner 🙂 Thanks for the info, I was wondering the function/capabilities of the PI... If it happens again, I will have to pay attention to the "codes" maybe it's too sensitive... or maybe it IS doing it's job.... Thanks! Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmw188 Posted August 9, 2021 Share Posted August 9, 2021 (edited) The code may still be displaying with a PE (Previous Error)in front of the code number. Edited August 9, 2021 by tmw188 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacwjames Posted August 9, 2021 Share Posted August 9, 2021 I installed a Progressive HW50C back in 2014 after I had a lightening strike on our house but the coach was plugged in. Took out one TV in the house and took out the EMS circuit board. An expensive lesson for sure. So I installed the surge protector. After that I could monitor the voltage at each site we plugged into and was amazed how many times there was a problem with either voltage or reverse polarity. Then I started building a new house and had a temporary pole installed that I could also plug the coach into. Every once in a while I'd get a low voltage error but I attributed to the temp service. Nope, after finishing the house a and having the coach plugged into a 50 amp plug I still got low voltage. So I started monitoring the voltage in the house, sure enough we were having a problem with power coming into the house. I notified the Coop and low and behold one of their techs called me back and said they had checked and there was a problem on there end at the transformer station and they had it fixed. No more problems. NOW, you know you have an Iota transfer switch. There was a recent post of someone with power problems and it was indeed the transfer switch that he ended up replacing. He posted pictures and the neutral contacts had gotten extremely hot. The Iota is a known fire hazard, I'd suggest replacing it ASAP, the cost is ~$250 depending on where and what you buy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cubflyer Posted August 9, 2021 Author Share Posted August 9, 2021 Todd, Thanks for your help, I am a newbee to these products, your post got me doing a search for the manual and read it. I should have done that before I posted my question. Now, if it does it again I have the "codes" and their meaning and also know the designed ranges that it works within. Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacwjames Posted August 9, 2021 Share Posted August 9, 2021 I made a laminated copy of the codes and posted so I can easily tell what the problem was. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmw188 Posted August 9, 2021 Share Posted August 9, 2021 Yes the designed range parameters, good to know. If you have the small remote monitor inside the coach you can monitor it live and also bypass it if you need to. The modern power grid should be 120v many yrs back it was 110v/115v. You will experience some voltage drops during high usage hrs especially at older remote areas. That’s were it comes in handy. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cubflyer Posted August 9, 2021 Author Share Posted August 9, 2021 Jim, Interesting experience! I have seen some (weird to me) voltages on this coach indictor, I guess I have been spoiled with solid power grids in my life and when the voltages are different between legs it is not the power source but my connection. I also have never "monitored" the power voltages so closely. I actually have a LPT50BRD in my Amazon cart and just did not know if I should "pull the trigger" in it.... My IOTA does not appear to have any problems (visual inspection) but the contacts could be getting sketchy. Jim and Todd, The control/monitor panel is currently in the compartment with the power cord, I probably need to relocate it into the interior of the coach to save me from wondering around in the dark and the rain.... it would be easy to do... Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacwjames Posted August 9, 2021 Share Posted August 9, 2021 (edited) 11 minutes ago, Cubflyer said: Jim, Interesting experience! I have seen some (weird to me) voltages on this coach indictor, I guess I have been spoiled with solid power grids in my life and when the voltages are different between legs it is not the power source but my connection. I also have never "monitored" the power voltages so closely. I actually have a LPT50BRD in my Amazon cart and just did not know if I should "pull the trigger" in it.... My IOTA does not appear to have any problems (visual inspection) but the contacts could be getting sketchy. Jim and Todd, The control/monitor panel is currently in the compartment with the power cord, I probably need to relocate it into the interior of the coach to save me from wondering around in the dark and the rain.... it would be easy to do... Ken Replacing the Iota is a personal choice based on the level of risk you want to accept. The make a module to add a second monitor for the surge protector. I mounted a display in the compartment I store my power cord and easily viewable when I turn the power on. If all is good I then flip a switch and it sends the signal to the second display which I have mounted in the 1/2 bath. Some people complain about the constant scrolling of the red display so mount it where it won't both you. For me the 1/2 bath room works as it give me something to look at while I'm concentrating on my morning BM's 😄 https://www.amazon.com/Progressive-Industries-EMS-RDS-Digital-Display/dp/B00A2TF9AK Better price https://www.walmart.com/ip/Progressive-Industries-EMS-RDS-EMS-Digital-Remote-Switch-and-Display-for-EMS-HW50C-EMSHW30C-Series/120668864 Edited August 9, 2021 by jacwjames 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmw188 Posted August 9, 2021 Share Posted August 9, 2021 If you have telephone wiring in the coach you can send that signal to any jack near where you want to put the display. I did that on my last coach and all you have to do is cut the end off of one of your pigtails that you would use to run from the phone jack to your remote display and turn it around 180° and put it back on so it will take a special telephone plug tool. I did it and it worked perfectly. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now