Time to Replace Norcold 1200?

[birdshill123]

Where did you get the idea that 12 volt is becoming an industry standard. I would guess that when it comes to motorhomes maybe 1 out  of a thousand is 12 volt. I am not referring to puny little 8 cu. ft. units. Why would anyone want  a little fridge when you can carry lots of cold beer and rock hard ice cream. You sure would not renovate you stick home kitchen and install a dorm fridge. We have a 22 in our Dynasty but the 18 Samsungs are big enough. Bigger is better. 

Edited August 1, 2023 by birdshill123

[dennis.mcdonaugh]

On 8/24/2021 at 8:30 PM, Bob Jones said:

I'll probably get shot for this (I fear it as I'm 'new' to the site) but I was recently looking at the  Frigidaire # FFHT1425VV as someone else here used it. By the looks of it, it's plug n' play even though I have a furnace under my fridge (so did he). Up here, in Canada, that fridge is $850 in stainless and less in white. That's about $670 USD but it's likely to be cheaper in the US due to competition. Cheaper yet if you don't go for the stainless.

That fridge costs $40 to run per YEAR based on .12c per KWH. What that means is that it costs less to run that fridge for one year then it does for my Norcold for one month......

In my case, that fridge will pay for itself very quickly. But here's the thing, I know from experience that my 4 Trojan batteries will power the Norcold for about 10 hours, roughly. How long would those batteries power a fridge that uses a fraction of the power of the Norcold? Probably days. To me, that would be a massive benefit to anyone boondocking. 

Then you get the benefit of not having to deal with door seals, the complexity of it, the chance of a leak, and...most importantly, the fact that they are known to burn a unit to the ground very, very quickly. One guy on this site went through that and he won't set foot in a unit with a Norcold because it freaked him out that badly. Apparently these things burn very very fast. Scary fast from the sounds of it. 

If my Norcold was not performing so well, I would be down at the store right now buying a Frigidaire # FFHT1425VV as fast as I could. The power saving alone makes it pay for itself in about 1.5 years. The reduction in fire risk? Probably priceless. The reduction in load on the inverter? Massive benefit. Just my 0.02c worth. But it seems to me, that for boondocking, you want something that uses little power. Bear in mind, I refuse to run mine on propane because of the open flame in proximity to the flammable gases in the back of the fridge.....

I have that fridge and not only is it energy efficient, unlike most residential fridges it works from below freezing to over 110 degrees. We boondock regularly with it. 
 

[Tom Cherry]

9 minutes ago, dennis.mcdonaugh said:

I have that fridge and not only is it energy efficient, unlike most residential fridges it works from below freezing to over 110 degrees. We boondock regularly with it. 
 

Wow….what an endorsement.  I have read many stories of the popular Samsung, of which I installed, not working on back porches or unheated garages.  Once I insulted my acess panels…it works.

NOW…..IMPORTANT.  Even though the Fridgeadaire works….you SHOULD (MUST?) STILL INSULATE.

Simple.  You can NOT sruff insulation around a residential refrigerator as the air must get to,the rear.

The Gas refrigerators were SIDE insulated to prevent CO2 issues as well as to keep your INSIDE conditioned air INSIDE.  So, that worked.

Therefore, you should insulate the top (panel or roof vent) and the bottom panel….otherwise, you have a “chimney”  or natural convection air flow behind the refrigerator to exhaust all your heated or cooled air from the inside.

GREAT that some Res Refrigerator do NOT need a limited (above freezing or below 110 degrees or so) environment…but if you don’t, you are “heating or cooling” the great outdoors.  My two 15K BTU Dometics are barely enough to fight 100 deg temps….so it is a win-win for me….takes maybe an hour to do the job…

Just don’t forget there are TWO reasons for insulation…..but one is to maintain the interior environment control….but choose your brand based on your own criteria.

[dennis.mcdonaugh]

I read all the info on replacing the fridge and this one is small enough to leave room all the way around for ventilation and I put a vent screen on the front at the top where I had 6” of headspace. I also blocked the outside vent by attaching 1” of rigid foam board insulation to the inside of the vent. I also used foam board to seal the roof vent and covered it with aluminum sheet. 
 

I still had enough room for a broom closet on the side. there was a little weathering evident on the wood inside the outside vent so I sanded down what I could and replaced what I couldn’t and covered it with fiberglass.

Edited August 1, 2023 by dennis.mcdonaugh

[Tom Cherry]

9 minutes ago, dennis.mcdonaugh said:

I read all the info on replacing the fridge and this one is small enough to leave room all the way around for ventilation and I put a vent screen on the front at the top where I had 6” of headspace. I also blocked the outside vent by attaching 1” of rigid foam board insulation to the inside of the vent. I also used foam board to seal the roof vent and covered it with aluminum sheet. 
 

I still had enough room for a broom closet on the side. there was a little weathering evident on the wood inside the outside vent so I sanded down what I could and replaced what I couldn’t and covered it with fiberglass.

SMART and well done.  You understood and did it like it should be.  MOST are realizing that now, but way back when, folks were insulating to beat the band, putting tight fitting shrouds or facades and not bracing or driloing holes in the sides and ruining the new unit.

The conversion techs did not “grasp” the concept.

BUT…eventually the word spread….

Thanks.

[dennis.mcdonaugh]

3 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

SMART and well done.  You understood and did it like it should be.  MOST are realizing that now, but way back when, folks were insulating to beat the band, putting tight fitting shrouds or facades and not bracing or driloing holes in the sides and ruining the new unit.

The conversion techs did not “grasp” the concept.

BUT…eventually the word spread….

Thanks.

One other than I did was put the temp sensor for the generator auto start just behind that top vent in case power goes out while we’re out of the motorhome. We have dogs and that seemed like the best place to get an early warning. We also use a marcell environmental sensor, but some times we’re camping out of cell service. 

[Georgia Mike]

So I know this can be a touchy subject but I had to chime in and give a user’s experience with this Norcold 1200 with the 12 volt compressor conversion. I am currently in Gulf Shores Alabama ( I’m not sure why we came here with this heat) but it’s been in the upper 90’s and a heat index of 112-114 every day. You can’t even be outside from 11-5 during the day. Anyways this fridge has been rock steady at 36-40 and -5 to 5 in the freezer. I currently have it on the number 4 setting. I can’t say enough about how well this thing has been performing and I don’t know how much more stress you can put on it. Now my gaskets and door hinges are in good shape for the age so I know that’s a huge factor. So all I’m saying if your box is in good shape I would recommend this conversion and not have to modify any cabinets because it preforms just like a residential. 

[Tom Cherry]

Just now, Georgia Mike said:

So I know this can be a touchy subject but I had to chime in and give a user’s experience with this Norcold 1200 with the 12 volt compressor conversion. I am currently in Gulf Shores Alabama ( I’m not sure why we came here with this heat) but it’s been in the upper 90’s and a heat index of 112-114 every day. You can’t even be outside from 11-5 during the day. Anyways this fridge has been rock steady at 36-40 and -5 to 5 in the freezer. I currently have it on the number 4 setting. I can’t say enough about how well this thing has been performing and I don’t know how much more stress you can put on it. Now my gaskets and door hinges are in good shape for the age so I know that’s a huge factor. So all I’m saying if your box is in good shape I would recommend this conversion and not have to modify any cabinets because it preforms just like a residential. 

GREAT.  Yes, touchy….but only because of the age and the widespread issues with DOOR alarms and limited, if none, replacement gaskets. One company in NC supposedly has replacement kits, but Norcold went through 3 different door designs so it ain’t a one size fits all.  As long as the 12 VDC is working….and i can’t recall if the OEM. Control board is used or not…great.  Many folks have sunk in several hundred $$ for new heaters and new “DINO” boards and the Amish conversion and been sadly disappointed.  The compressor alternative as long as the door gaskets are in good shape, seems to  work great.  I donkt recall if it uses more 12 VDC than a high EStar or energy efficient Res RefeR. Folks have rebuilt the gaskets by putting in small lengths of clear plastic tubing and made them “stand a little taller”.  
That photo says it all.  Happy for you and thanks for sharing….yes…I did GS….but in the fall.  Some restaurant near by where they “throw the biscuits” and play catch.  LuLu’s is great.  Jimmy Buffett’s kid sister runs or owns it.  Also recommended…don’t know about the roller coaster next door…LOL.

[birdshill123]

Nice to see a positive post on this subject. If only someone made a new door gaskets. We are looking at buying an addition to the  fleet. A 34 ft. Used dp. I know it will have the Norcold. If we do buy something the 12 volt unit might an option.