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Saur Danfoss Fan Control


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I know there has been a lot of discussion on this.  I have a Saur Danfoss fan control  part # 1090822  which is no longer available Is the new # 11163003 a drop in replacement ?  My fan is intermittently running wide open.   This causes the engine to run at 182 degrees normal is 195+- is that a problem?

Bob St. Romain

04 Windsor

 

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I had a simialr problem on my 01 Imperial several years back.  I did the troubleshooting to identify the exact casue.  Of course when I took it to Wildwood, Fl for repair they didn't take my word for the casue and did 10 hours of troubleshooting to come up with the same cause as I did and I paid t=for that ten hours.

 

Anyway, read this article on hyraulic fan systems. 

https://www.centralstatesbus.com/wp-content/uploads/2003_BBAA/a3pdfs/a3hydfan.pdf

The fan speed is controlled by a fan control valve.  A wax valve on the radiator controls the fan control valve.  When the arva is cold and temp is below 185 degrees, the wx valve blocks most hyradualic fluid from going though the wax valve and thus to the fan control valve.  Therefore, the  radiator fan spins at a low speed.  When the temperature of the engine and coolant increase the wax valve allows more fluid to pass to the fan control valve and thus the speed of the fan increases.  Since your fan is spinning fast, the wax valve could be faulty and is much cheaper to replace (~$140) than the fan control valve assembly (~$1500 plus hours of labor).

A simply test to determine if the wax valve is faulty is to remove the two hoses connected to teh wax valve and use the proper fitter to cap the two lines.  This will result in no fluid being returned to the fan control valve assembly and therefore should result in the fan spinning very slow.  If the fan speed is still high then the fan control valve assembly is faulty but if the fan speed is low then teh wax valve is bad and needs to be replaced.

In 2016, Alliance (now lazy Days in Wildwood, FL) charged me $3811 to replace the fan control valve assemblya and various hydraulic hoses.  I also replaced the wax valve myself that i purchased off ebay for about $100.  I keep the wax valve as it was replaced only because of the other work, it never failed.  I also kept the fan control valve assembly to have rebuilt if needed.

If your fan control valve is bad, contact Precision Fluid Power at 1-800-728-5168 to see if they can rebuild your unit.  If the wax valve is bad contact: http://www.nwrvsupply.com/product/553109857190.html to see if they have one.

Sorry the part number mean nothing to me as I have no cross reference.

Good luck

 

Murray Walker  01 HR Imperial

Edited by merkur89xr4tiride
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18 hours ago, bobstromain said:

I know there has been a lot of discussion on this.  I have a Saur Danfoss fan control  part # 1090822  which is no longer available Is the new # 11163003 a drop in replacement ?  My fan is intermittently running wide open.   This causes the engine to run at 182 degrees normal is 195+- is that a problem?

Bob St. Romain

04 Windsor

 

Original FDCA 1091140 Superseded by 11163020  is the valve and electronic assembly

Original FDC 1091139 Superseded by 11163018  is the electronic assembly only.

I haven't heard of the valve assembly going bad and would replace just the electronic box, the FDC

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Hi Hypoxia, philcarrell, et. al.,

Last year I had to solve the problem of my cooling fan running 100% wide open all the time.  (2006 Camelot 40PDQ,  400 ISL.)  I studied what I could off the internet, and developed a solution.  I'd like to share with this forum, and have attached a .pdf letter I wrote a while ago to a friend who asked about my solution.

Feel free to contact me if  you have any questions.  So far this is working very well for me.

Mikee, K5ESX

Fan - MIkees FDCA Replacement.pdf

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22 hours ago, k5esx said:

Hi Hypoxia, philcarrell, et. al.,

Last year I had to solve the problem of my cooling fan running 100% wide open all the time.  (2006 Camelot 40PDQ,  400 ISL.)  I studied what I could off the internet, and developed a solution.  I'd like to share with this forum, and have attached a .pdf letter I wrote a while ago to a friend who asked about my solution.

Feel free to contact me if  you have any questions.  So far this is working very well for me.

Mikee, K5ESX

Fan - MIkees FDCA Replacement.pdf 1.34 MB · 44 downloads

Mikee, that is an interesting idea.  In my case I have a front mounted condenser so shouldn't have to do anything with that.  I noticed the power always supplied to the FDC.  My FDC is OK now but switched power may be a good idea to extend its life.  I also think the electrical plug at the FDC seemed intermittent in my testing.  I plan to order a new plug, it is always exposed to the environment.   The thermostat from Amazon appears to be on or off while the FDC modulates the voltage and fan speed.  Somewhere out there must be a modulating thermostat?

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1 hour ago, k5esx said:

Hypox, there probably is a modulated thermostat out there, not sure.  But problem of what is signal on ECM #38 wire?  It's hard to pick a t'stat without knowing that. 

The end result is simply applying variable voltage, zero to 12VDC,  to the hydraulic valve based on coolant temperature.  It doesn't seem like the ECM wire has any effect,  as replacing the FDCA with wax valves shows.

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Hi H.  #38 wire has pulse width modulation of current, not voltage.  I don't know voltage, my meter not good enuf.  Suppose 12v is pulse voltage on wire #38: then suppose a 0.5 second on pulse, 12v.  That is 50% power over a whole second, and that causes the solenoid to control the fan at 50% max rpm.  Remember Monaco's pull down action?  12v @ 1 full second stops fan; 0 v @ 1 full second runs fan 100%.  0.3 sec. ON  each full second yields 70% of full fan speed, and smooth action of fan at a continously adjustible speed based on engine temp.   This is why the FDCA has two parts:  the "brain" FDC that changes the pulse into variable voltage to the solenoid, and the solenoid itself, that switches the small tube fluid to the slide valve on the hydraulic fan motor. 

Simple!  Eh? 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Well I had to flap my jaw and say the FDC is OK.  Now it is running full speed and the voltage to the solenoid is 1 volt so it is not a connector problem.  I ordered the thermostatic control Mikee posted about & will try that.  I think one reason the FDC is so expensive is the proprietary programming Monaco has on it which also makes it a 12 week lead time.   Danfoss has a Plus+1 Service Tool program available to program them but you need the adapter $$$.  Has anyone looked at programming one?

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I got a quote from Berendsen Fluid Power  (504) 734-0270. Greg Armstrong said when ordering by the OEM  model they would program to those parameters. The parameter number is on the control. They have 12 week lead also.  I have not ordered yet   I was told that it would be plug and play     He sent a lot ofdata with his quote  it   It is working at this moment as it should and I hate  to bite the bullet

Bob 

 

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