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What do I need to remove to replace the BIRD relay with the LI-BIM225?


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Posted

I am in the process of upgrading my ME2012 Magnum inverter with a Victron 3000 watt Powershare inverter (the 12v 3000w 2x120 version).

One of the issues I have is how the BIRD relay will join the house and Chassis batteries when I replace the House batteries with LifePO4 batteries because of the higher resting voltage of these batteries.

I have the LI-BIM225 from battleborn, but want to make sure I modify the system correctly. 

1) I want to keep the ability to get a Boost from the House Batteries (Via the Switch on the dash)

2) I want the functionality for the alternator to charge both the house and chassis batteries.

3) I want to be able to charge the Chassis Batteries from the Inverter as needed.

Basically I want the new setup to work as if it is  just composed with old Flooded Lead acid batteries,  but with LiFeO4 house batteries.

I have a 2008 Camelot 36PDQ.

I know I need to pull the Big Boy Relay the Li BIM225 will take its place.

I am unsure of what to do with with the several Relays connected to the BIRD Module. (My understanding is that the LI BIM225 has the functionality of the BIRD Module (and the relays???) but I am not fully clear on this.

and am not sure about the role the disconnect relay plays in the system  (from reading the manual, I assume this stays, I believe it is linked to the House or Chassis cutoff switch in the Main Distribution box... am I correct?)

 

Any enlightenment you can provide on the proper replacement method would be appreciated.

John Crowder

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Several of the Monaco owners are replacing the Intellitec Big Boy system with the Blue Sea ML-ACR.  

The ML-ACR is guaranteed for life and with the addition of a new wire will operate perfectly.  

Links: https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/replace-big-boy-with-blue-sea-ml-acr-468617.html

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/windsor-owners-blue-sea-ml-acr-install-i-need-spare-wires-front-and-back-540763.html

I guess you've already read the cautions on charging lithium batteries with your alternator.  

Edited by vito.a
Posted

I installed the Bluesea MR-ACR on my Windsor, there is a link above to the post.

I removed the Isolation Solenoid (similar to a BigBoy), the BIRD, and the Lambert 415 maintainer. 

I mounted the Bluesea in the same place as the Isolation Solenoid, the wires were plenty long enough.  The Bluesea that I installed also had a switch that replaced the boost switch on the dash but I needed an extra wire to make that work.  Never could find one so I ran a group of five extra wires front to back and only used one.  The switch gives me the ability to have it ON/OFF/Auto. 

This was one of the best upgrades i did. 

Posted

vito.a, jacwjames, 

I looked at the Blue Sea product and it looks like a good replacement for the system. I didn't see anything that said it was setup to work with Flooded lead acid chassis and LiFePO4 house batteries. I think this is a replacement/upgrade if you are staying with Lead Acid/AGM on both house and chassis battery banks.

It does look like an upgrade though!

Thanks for the info.

  • 1 year later...
Posted

John did you install the BIM 225.  If so could you advise wiring.  I have 2006 Dip and only a white an violet wire to the thrombetta.  Not sure how to wire the BIM   TKS

Posted

Allan, I did install the bim 225.

I am out of the country, so I only have my memory to go on so take this with a grain of salt.

As I remember, the the bim 225 was designed by a former intellitec employee to enable easy upgrade to LiFePo4 house batteries.

I made minimal changes to the wiring.  

I removed the Big Boy relay and inserted the Bim 225 in its place. Relocating all the wires from the Big boy relay to the Bim 225.

As I recall, I took source wires off the BIRD as appropriate and moved them to the BIM225. I seem to remember that at least one (the sig wire?) needed to be extended to reach. I did that and routed the extended wire with the rest back to where the Big boy (now the Bim225) is mounted.

If I recall there was ign, sig, gnd and the 2 heavy positive wires going to the house and chassis battery banks.

The system has been trouble free since install a few years ago.

One note. Unlike flooded lead acid chassis batteries, LiFePo4 batteries are current limited. They have a bms that controls charging and discharging and will disconnect the LiFePo4 battery if the current draw is too high (often 100-200amps/battery) I take this to mean that you will not be able to use your battery boost? Switch to join your battery banks if your engine batteries are too low. Starting a diesel engine can take something like 1200 amps. I had 4 280ah LiFePo4 batteries each limited to 120A output. I did not feel comfortable to try the boost switch after LiFePo4 chassis battery installation. The boost switch  is hooked up(i.e. the sig wire) but I won't use it. My choice.

Hope.this is useful.

  • 5 months later...
Posted

Hi everyone,

I joined this group specifically because of this post. I just want to be completely upfront, the 2005 Safari I am looking at is not mine, but belongs to my cousin. I am helping him upgrade to LiFePo4.

We have already installed the batteries, (2) 230ah LiTime, and replaced the Magnum inverter/charger with a lithium compatible Magnum and controller. We have a Bim 225 to install, but I wasn’t clear where to get the trigger for the third terminal since the existing relay only has two terminals. Any help on that would be greatly appreciated. I have read through a number of posts her that talk about different battery isolation systems, just not exactly sure what he has.

After we installed the batteries and inverter, I just disconnected the ground wire on his battery isolator relay to make sure we don’t burn up his alternator. Everything seems to be working as it should (alternator is charging chassis batteries and converter is charging house batteries), except of course the two battery banks are completely isolated. Now, I am wondering if I should even worry about the isolation system. I was thinking about just installing a toggle switch above the isolator relay so he could enable the system in the unlikely event that he needed to use the boost function. He would, of course, have to remember to turn the switch back off after the engine starts to protect his alternator.

I would love to hear any thoughts or ideas any of you may have. I am actually pretty tech savvy, and a registered RV technician, but I have always steered clear of the electronics on the more complicated class A rigs.

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