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Posted (edited)

2094 Dynasty.

6 volt wet cell house batteries connected in series and parallel for two 12 volt sets. New batteries show 13 volts at the batteries but less tha 2 volts at the front run box. So no 12 volt house systems work.

If I combine with the ML ACR the  voltage uis proper and everything works properly.

Have not measured where it comes into the inverter yet.

Thinking bad ground. Any other thoughts on where the bad ground might be?

Thanks

Mike

 

Edited by bmulvenna@hotmail.com
Correction from chassis to house batteries
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I had a similar problem on my 2001 Dynasty. A main cable runs from the cut off switch at the right rear of the coach to the fuse panel at the lift front. I had 110 volts on the outside  of the cage containing the fuses but none in the inside. The bolts where the cable comes through the panel needed tightening. That is a possibility. In any case use your coach/chassis wiring diagram to isolate the problem.

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Hi Mike, I had the same issue after getting my coach home. It was all of the neg batt cables in conjunction with a nice patina on the pos house cables. Once I wire wheeled all of the batt connectors, I had my 12.8vdc back. 
 

Oh, one more place to check- the master switch had an intermittent connection due to being loose, I hit that with my wire wheel too, never hurts to check the most unlikely places. Best of luck and let us know what it was. Inquiring minds want to know! 🙂 

 

Thanks,

 

Nick

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, waterskier_1 said:

Did you mis-type when you wrote "chassis batteries". If not, then check the house batteries first.  Good chassis batteries & poor house batteries combined will geld your results. 

  -Rick N 

Yes I did, it is the house batteries

Thanks everyone. I did mistype original post. These are the house batteries. I have edited to correct.

Have already cleaned cables and installed a new cutoff switch(it was bad) for the house batteries. Will continue research and advise.

Edited by bmulvenna@hotmail.com
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Did you replace the master cut off switch in the rear panel or the “salesman switch” at the entrance? In either case have you got 110 at the capacitor associated with the master cut off?

Also, are you getting 110 when on shore power or generator?

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15 hours ago, Larry H said:

Did you replace the master cut off switch in the rear panel or the “salesman switch” at the entrance? In either case have you got 110 at the capacitor associated with the master cut off?

Also, are you getting 110 when on shore power or generator?

Master switch. No capacitor involved, manual switch in the house battery compartment. I have removed the sales switch long ago.

110 on either source.

Was not able to troubleshoot yesterday. Hopefully today.

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Issue resolved.

Disconnected the frame ground from the inverter to the frame. While doing so got a small spark. Not right. Both frame and chassis batteries are disconnected.

Measured voltage from frame to the ground cable from the inverter that was just disconnected and got 2.4 volts. What the hell. Voltage on the frame?

Disconnected all wires from the heliotrop controller that controls 1 solar panel. The 2.4 voltage went away. 

Reconnected the inverter frame ground cable, no spark.

All DC electrical works as it should.

Can't explain it but I would rather have all DC electrical working properly without 1 solar panel. 

Any thoughts?

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Verify the heliotrope controller is the problem - maybe hook it back up and see if problem resurfaces. 
 

I replaced that controller with a Victron mppt 100/30.  I also replaced the 85w roof panel with 420w of panels (two 210w panels). I just reused the wires. 
 

If you didn’t want to expand the solar the Victron 100/15 or 100/20 could replace it. I got a piece of plexiglass- spray painted the back of it black and put in on the wall in place of the old controller. 
 

Good Luck!

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