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Some may have read that I have a mystery leak in my Capps 2 pump. At first I thought it was an injector line off the back of the rotary manifold of the pump. No such luck. I search for months when I had the time and finally stumbled across a very small video on a site devoted to school buses. There is a very small plate between the injection module and the rotary. That plate has 2 small O rings and 2 gaskets. In the video the mechanic states that you couldn’t buy just the o rings and gaskets. Cummins makes a repair kit now for this leak. Unfortunately it’s way back ordered, but I was able to just buy the o rings and gaskets without the metal plate. So we will see what condition it’s all in. I’ll post as things come apart and go together. Here is the area I’m working in. The closet hatch has direct access. 

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Posted (edited)

Update:

Digging in, I underestimated the strength of the springs for the solenoids. If you need to do this repair, make sure and get everything off the back of the accumulator before undoing the 4 cap bolts on top and 2 on the side. 
 

The accumulator is cocked now and I’m removing the intercooler boot to shove the pipe over so I can gain space to take the last 3 small bolts out that hold an injection line underneath. 
 

The cap bolts on top, and the injection line into the accumulator, wow, beyond tight. No rust at all on the bolts, but needed a cheater bar on a breaker bar to get them loose, 

 

 

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Edited by JDCrow
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Hey JD looks like your on track to get to the bottom of this, be VERY carfull with any dirt around there. Im sure you know injection systems have VERY tight tollerences. Good work, just wish we could get your work in vidio😳

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20 minutes ago, Rikadoo said:

Hey JD looks like your on track to get to the bottom of this, be VERY carfull with any dirt around there. Im sure you know injection systems have VERY tight tollerences. Good work, just wish we could get your work in vidio😳

Yeah been careful. It’s very dirty all around, especially from the leak. I’ll take my time with q tips and rags cleaning out the parts before the go back together. Hopefully tomorrow afternoon. Couple of the the small bolts were rusted, and bolt heads are rounded off. Ran to Home Depot to get a set of bolt extractors.

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I do have a couple GoPros, I really thought about filling this. It’s so cramped in the closet and the lighting is horrible. Also Not sure we need another dad bod 50 yr old making videos! I might shoot a quick video of the space then I get it apart, and back together. 
 

I’m no mechanic either. Not even close. 

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Posted (edited)

Update:

The bolts holding the fuel line  under the accumulator bracket were a bear. Last one had to cut and grind. I’ll have to drill and retap to set them back up. 
 

Here’s what your accumulator looks like inside the gear driven side up to the accumulator. And now the 6 bolts on the module next. The leak is under it I believe 

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Edited by JDCrow
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The only part I cannot source is this spacer plate. It’s available only in the kit from Cummins. I have spent over an hour with ultra fine sand cloth and whet stone trying to smooth out the surfaces. I’m not sure what the channels are in the plate. The are opposite the ones on the module and pump. Maybe they do what I am experiencing, weep to let you know the gaskets are toast. These gaskets are hard and stuck on. 
 

You can also see rust out the back. I’m going to imagine that was my leak area. 

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Here are the parts for repair, 2 of each. Again, there is a kit from Cummins, but who knows when it will be available again, If ever.

 

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JD, for someone who claims not to be a mechanic, you have tackled a very difficult job and are doing very well at it.  Kudos.

Lots of times, folks shy away from a job, thinking "I can't do that" when all they need to do is read up on the subject carefully and proceed.

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1 hour ago, vanwill52 said:

JD, for someone who claims not to be a mechanic, you have tackled a very difficult job and are doing very well at it.  Kudos.

Lots of times, folks shy away from a job, thinking "I can't do that" when all they need to do is read up on the subject carefully and proceed.

Thanks, but interesting enough, I should have read a bit more. I tracked down a repair manual last night. I was wanting torque spec on these bolts. 
 

I had read about the timing of the gear driven side of the pump, was under the impression through my reading that unless I pulled the whole pump, timing was a non-issue.

Turns out, the reason the cap bolts for the accumulator were so tight is that I needed to have the engine at top-dead to remove the bolts. They only have 50 lbs of torque. I’ll pick up a Cummins Barring Tool today and set the engine at Top-dead before I set the accumulator back on. 
 

Another note, the 2 ceramic rods in the solenoids shouldn’t be swapped. Ceramic to me is kinda not a big deal in this application, but turns out Cummins machines these ceramic rods to the bore in the solenoid top. So I’ll have to mic each to the best of my ability to see which one goes in which solenoid when I goto reassemble the accumulator.

Off to work for a few hours then I can round up the tools and get it back together. We leave Sunday for our first 10 day trip to the Coast. 

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I go along with the person who gave you Kuddos, your knockin it out of the park. Plus a unknown project ALWAYS looks bigger untill ya start on it, then ya find piece by piece “Thats not so bad” even as a retired mechanic i have learned… its just nuts an bolts😎

keep up the great work👍

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5 hours ago, vanwill52 said:

JD, for someone who claims not to be a mechanic, you have tackled a very difficult job and are doing very well at it.  Kudos.

Lots of times, folks shy away from a job, thinking "I can't do that" when all they need to do is read up on the subject carefully and proceed.

Thanks much. I’m grateful I have an awesome step father who took the time to explain tools and basic engine workings. We never had much growing up, so we always would have to tear things apart to see if we could fix it ourselves. 
 

Just getting over the hump of starting a project is half the battle.

I often ask my clients that are Drs, “ how was the first incision?”  For me I cannot fathom taking a knife and slicing on a person. But, I’m thankful some can. 
 

 

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No store in town has this tool. Just happened to remember a guy who worked at local Dodge dealer for years and he let me borrow his. I’ll be ordering one of these up. 

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d***, snapped a bolt on the module. Hate inch pounds. Was rolling along and just snapped. Newton meters uggg. 
 

I’ll put it together and run it 

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Barring the engine is out as well. The plug to fit the tool in is right behind the defunct lift pump. No way to get the tool in without removing the pump. Bumping with starter, I have to much compression and won’t hit TDC. Cloth wrenching the dampener now 

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Back in the day when runnin the overhead (adjusting valves on cummins) the 350 an 400 in a cabover was a challange i bet it was damm difficult on the coach! So did you mic the cermic rods? What is there job in the scheam of things?

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14 minutes ago, Rikadoo said:

Back in the day when runnin the overhead (adjusting valves on cummins) the 350 an 400 in a cabover was a challange i bet it was damm difficult on the coach! So did you mic the cermic rods? What is there job in the scheam of things?

I did mic both solenoid rods “plungers” they were identical on every measurement I took. One was a smidge tighter than the other when I put them back in. But both stayed in the solenoids. 
 

I haven’t read the way the pump actuator operates, but it looks just like a sprinkler valve, I am thinking. Current runs the solenoid, pushed the plunger, overcomes the spring tension and allows flow? 

The solenoids are in oil, and there is a single fuel passage in the gasketed area singled out by an o-ring. 
 

I’ll work a few hours this morn, then clean up my area and then set the accumulator on. Hopefully running by 12 today. 

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Ya know JD im gonning out on a limb here but i bet the reason for those gaskets being sooo hard has alot to do with this fuel being pushed on us! From our lift pumps to what your doing now, our seals an gaskets of our vehicles when there were built were not designed for the Ultra low sulpher content. I know with the old 7.3 Ford engines all the seals on the return line caps immediately started leaking when it was introduced. So i hate to say it but whith what your doing you may qualify as a earlie pioneer with this repair. Be shure to lets us know how it works out

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7 hours ago, Rikadoo said:

Ya know JD im gonning out on a limb here but i bet the reason for those gaskets being sooo hard has alot to do with this fuel being pushed on us! From our lift pumps to what your doing now, our seals an gaskets of our vehicles when there were built were not designed for the Ultra low sulpher content. I know with the old 7.3 Ford engines all the seals on the return line caps immediately started leaking when it was introduced. So i hate to say it but whith what your doing you may qualify as a earlie pioneer with this repair. Be shure to lets us know how it works out

Well, I don’t think I’m any sort of pioneer other than for pain, 😂

 

All back together and she fired right up, no issues, except… still have the seep/drip 🤬🤬🤬🤬

 

At some point I’ll have to send it in for diagnostics I guess. Maybe a dye test. The distributor on the back may have a crack, or gaskets in between the sections of the pump maybe be blown. Who knows. 
 

Now our Toad is throwing a fit today and not sure we will be going anywhere. The electronics are way over my head on it. It’s got a warranty, but it will most likely be months before I can get it in 

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Ohhhh man! That BLOWS! 
yeah a dye test is probably what it will need, i got REAL familure doin those when Ford brought out the 6.4🤦‍♂️
So what happen to your toad? Thats the Raptor right?

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  • 2 months later...
Posted (edited)

Update:

After pouring over posts, it seems the distributor can go bad, and fuel will come out the weep holes. I found a new distributor just happened to be in Oregon.

After going through posts on the big RV site, I’m going to rebuild the stator on the ICV and the suppressor as preventative measures while I have it apart. 

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Edited by JDCrow
Added pic of weep holes
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Mornin JD, hey so fyi before starting on removing the fuel lines, i would spray the fittings with a lube like tri flow, then try crackin them loose. I have also tapped on them abruptly with a small, really small ball pien hammer (just trying to get a reson ence) to help them break there grip. Also in this new diesel world they always state if you pull a line off you should replace it… There reasoning is they wont compress in the same spot, due to part shortages i have had to reuse them and they have always done fine knock on wood😳😎

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Posted (edited)
56 minutes ago, Rikadoo said:

Mornin JD, hey so fyi before starting on removing the fuel lines, i would spray the fittings with a lube like tri flow, then try crackin them loose. I have also tapped on them abruptly with a small, really small ball pien hammer (just trying to get a reson ence) to help them break there grip. Also in this new diesel world they always state if you pull a line off you should replace it… There reasoning is they wont compress in the same spot, due to part shortages i have had to reuse them and they have always done fine knock on wood😳😎

Awesome thanks for the advise. I took off the rate shape line (tube) when I did the last attempt. I had to cut off the ubolts that hold the rubber isolators on the tube. They were just rusted shut. I will try and track down a new tube. 
 

While I’m nervous about this job, I’ve done 90% of the tear down/reassemble. The part that I need to check and double check is the timing of the gear module to the distributor module. 

Edited by JDCrow
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