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Please forgive my lack of knowledge on this question.

2004 Dynasty 4 slides. Measuring for Guardian plates on all 4 slides.

Working on the large front passenger slide which is raised floor. It's a HWH hydraulic slide, hydraulics activating a scissor type chain driven mechanism at each end of the slide.

The slide has inverted rollers on the inside of the coach. Does anyone know if there are rollers under the slide attached to the floor?

Maybe my 74 year old eyes are reallly bad as I have raised the slide and cannot see any rollers.

In the middle of the under side of the slide is a u shaped channel that the slide seems to ride on a glide post.

Seems to me there have to be rollers for the slide to ride on. 

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Edited by bmulvenna@hotmail.com
Added HWH
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I have a 2004 Dynasty with 3 slides and there no rollers under mine. If you look at the underside of the slide-out you would be able to see some wear from the rollers - there isn't any on mine. 

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Posted (edited)
6 minutes ago, Duffer51 said:

I have a 2004 Dynasty with 3 slides and there no rollers under mine. If you look at the underside of the slide-out you would be able to see some wear from the rollers - there isn't any on mine. 

How does your passenger  slide operate?  Is Hydraulic, Electric, or rack an pinion?

Is it raised floor?

Edited by bmulvenna@hotmail.com
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9 minutes ago, bmulvenna@hotmail.com said:

How does your passenger  slide operate?  Is Hydraulic, Electric, or rack an pinion?

Is it raised floor?

I’ve done 3 of my 4. The first was several years ago when Chris was just getting started.  He put me in touch with an ex Monaco supervisor, P J McCants, who was managing a repair shop in Elkhart and was installing them.  I became a “friend” and he was a resource and worked on the MH in 2018.  That slide was the Lippert bed slide.  No issues.  The other shorter wardrobe is the 8 cable, 4 exposed on the outside.  It has 4 plastic, NON ADJUSTABLE lower rollers. I have the Lippert hydraulic on the front.  One is a standard, in and out, the shorter one.  Two rollers.  The longer one is a drop down at the end of the travel.  The Monaco wear plastic strips cracked and failed.  All of this to say, get with Chris and go over every slide and pry up the rubber skirts or seals and photograph.

The first comment from P J  was…make sure you have an adjustable lower roller OR that you have clearance in the top gap.  I checked that one, but FAILED or assumed that since the first bed slide was a piece of Cake…that the next two would be also.  OPPS.

MY WORD OF ADVICE AND CAUTION…..based on an expensive repair is to LOOK and MEASURE carefully.  I think this issue is isolated to my cable slide which is more of a low end, thank you Monaco, style that is used more on TT & 5W.  The Guardian plates added to the slide with non adjustable small plastic rollers raised the slide enough on one end that the two mating or “SHOULD NOT MATE” interior trim pieces now had an interference fit.  There is a large crown molding or header on the slide.  When extended, it mates or fits closely with a similar crown or header trim piece on the sidewall, above the slide.  Monaco had cut or made the cabinet and the headers too WIDE.  I purchased it new and there was a slight rubbing on the right side…maybe 25% of the length, with the inner or upper piece.  An HR dealer pulled off the slide crown and used a table saw and added more clearance….  BUT, when I added the Guardian plates, that was not enough.  Now the slide would not fit or run UNDER the interior header for almost half of the width.  Did not notice it after installing the plates…always a little creaky.  We have to raise the rear to max in our driveway.  A little noise.  On our 8500 mile trip, we had a very loud pop the second night.  Opps.  These pieces of wood are in a bind, big time.  I spent a day sanding and grinding off the top, as best I could.  I waxed the two mating parts.  I did this twice more.  After getting home, I got the right grinder and fixed the gap…. But the damage was done.  I had put way too much tension on the lower interior cable and frayed it at the attaching “T” fitting.  Realized this replacement was way beyond my skill set.  $1,200 later, fixed.  The CW tech was highly recommended by the local Ex HR General Manager who had tried to lure him away from CW several times.  He had to pull the entire wardrobe off the slide….the whole assembly.  Then replaced the cable and also cut and fitted and relieved each wooden trim piece for clearance.  ALL THAT TO SAY…

I would recommend that you extend each slide within say 8” of full extension.  Use a high powered light (I am 77!) and carefully look at the two, soon to be mated surfaces….the top of the slide and the bottom one on the wall.  Extend them slowly.  Make sure you have at lease 1/4 “ or more.  I do NOT think you will have any issues as the flanges and design on the front are probably not like my one “unique” wardrobe slide.  But, P J McCants’ warning still rattles around.  TRUST, but verify.

Had my slide had adjustable rollers, no issues.  P J said if there was an issue or concern, to drop down the roller….typically only one end would be the issue and THEN, install the Guardian plates.  Chris’s techs, which he did not have a few years ago, can also provide guidance as they specialize in this.  Mine was a freak, but if I have to do the final one, I will be cautious…

Good Luck.

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1 hour ago, bmulvenna@hotmail.com said:

How does your passenger  slide operate?  Is Hydraulic, Electric, or rack an pinion?

Is it raised floor?

Raised floor and electric 

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9 minutes ago, bmulvenna@hotmail.com said:

Electric is a  different type of slide but thanks.

Tom, thanks but I have no cable slides. Appreciate all the suggestions. 

I know that based on talking to many Dynasty owners and helping them with electric and such issues.  My POINT.  Follow PJ’s advice,  make sure you can adjust or pre adjust as the Guardian plates will raise the slide.  Not much, but with the improper or “manufacturing tolerances” and the plastic rollers, the interference should have been picked up, as PJ suggested, PRIOR to Installation of the Guardian plates.  He also suggested that the pre installation inspection be made with the MH on as level a surface as possible.  Mine was the perfect storm of issues….and your systems are more powerful, so if there are any mating surfaces interferences, the results could be ugly.

The plates are a great fix and I am more than pleased with the quality and repairs and will, if I need to, use them on the final slide,

Good Luck….

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1 hour ago, bmulvenna@hotmail.com said:

Electric is a  different type of slide but thanks.

Tom, thanks but I have no cable slides. Appreciate all the suggestions. 

So, your not see'ing any marks / indentations on the bottom of that slide?

My passenger front slide has 3 fixed rollers. You can access / adjust them from inside storage bays.

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1 hour ago, 96 EVO said:

So, your not see'ing any marks / indentations on the bottom of that slide?

My passenger front slide has 3 fixed rollers. You can access / adjust them from inside storage bays.

Fascinating.  My 40 passenger has a drop down slide.  Two rollers.  Had 3/8” nylon strips to run on the rollers.  That is the longer slide.  Shorter one,  I believe has only 2 and it is not a drop down.  The tings we learn….

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9 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

Fascinating.  My 40 passenger has a drop down slide.  Two rollers.  Had 3/8” nylon strips to run on the rollers.  That is the longer slide.  Shorter one,  I believe has only 2 and it is not a drop down.  The tings we learn….

My only flush floor slide is drivers side front.

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4 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

My only flush floor slide is drivers side front.

Seems like we have a design change in MY 2009.  Front Driver’s slide is the short, in length as well as width, slide with the galley and the JK sofa.  It is a flush or in and out with no drop down….basically like the bedrooms.  The Lippert hydraulic mechanism has a steel tube and a steel roller on each end.  Memory if fuzzy on rubber rollers, but there is or was no damage to the underside.

Long Bed slide is a Lippert motorized with an assumed rack and pinion.  It “ratchets” at the end.  The slide “bounced” when I hit a pothole and indented or fractured the thin laminate bottom and the damage propagated outward and there was a 1/4” long triangular void or indentation.

The wardrobe slide is a BAL Accuslide mechanism.  It has 8 cables.  2 exposed on each side of the exterior of the slide and runs on 4 plastic, non adjustable rollers.  There are 4 additional cables behind the interior slide flange.  The motor has (memory) two looms of 4 cables each.  When the motor turns, it winds in or retracts the four exterior cables and loosens or unwinds the four interior cables.  My curb side, lower, front cable was under stress and frayed at the fitting.  You can actually see the cables on the back side using the bedroom mirrors.  You can put your hand behind the side flanges and feel the cables at the top and bottom.  Due to the interference of the two mating trim pieces at the top and extending to the front from the center, the lower right interior cable was at the greatest tension as it (or the interior cables) are the ones that are pulling the slide during the extension.  The Guardian plate’s additional thickness caused the rear slide to be raised and there was an interference.

The front passenger slide is the longest and widest and drops down upon full extension.  It has the refrigerator, dinette and a folding sleeper air mattress on it.  There are 2 rollers that it rides on.  It has the same steel roller and square tube cylinder design as the opposite side. There WERE two 6 - 8” wide nylon strips attached to the underside with recesses screws(memory).  The slide runs up an inclined nylon ramp to lift it onto each roller.  These nylon glides crack and fail….a common occurrence per Chris.  The Guardian plates are thinner.  When the plates are installed, the leading edge of the front (interior floor) of the slide is much closer to the tiled floor.  Thus, you use a carpet scrap under the slide, right in front of the roller, to prevent marring or scratching.  P. J. McCantts had long thin plastic “slide glides” that you put down on retraction.  The front lip of the slide rides on this and prevents damage.

Your “sister” rig is obviously different….

 

 

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5 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

Seems like we have a design change in MY 2009.  

Your “sister” rig is obviously different….

 

 

Front two are definitely different.

Both of my curb slides are narrow slides. Roadside slides are the deep slides.

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19 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

Front two are definitely different.

Both of my curb slides are narrow slides. Roadside slides are the deep slides.

Whichever side, I think, does not matter. In 2008,  the  long (width and length) front slide was on the Road on all the lengths…can’t tell, but think that also included the rare 38’s.  In 2009, for reasons only known to  Monaco, they REVERSED the 40 foot layout and the long slides are curbside. The 38 and 42 remained the same.  They also added a “circular” extension of the counter top in the galley …. The one with the shadow box or the mirror.  Mine “sticks” out into the aisle and some folks that were of wider girth did not like it.  That was also, I know for a fact, done on the Scepters in 2009.

The position really doesn’t matter.  The slides were all the same design.  If you look at your rear slides, I suspect, HIGHLY, that you have the Lippert Motor on the bed and the BAL Accuslide on the wardrobe.

Your short slide on the curb should be a flush or non drop down.  What I can’t understand from your description is whether the long Driver’s side is a drop down.  I would think it was…..but this is Monaco.  Does your refrigerator slide extend and drop down or stay flush.  Thanks.

BTW, as a Moderator, please update your profile and include the length in the model.  That helps folks understand if you have the same MH as theirs.  We also like to have that displayed in your signature.  Thanks in advance for updating these.

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Yeah, I call the slide that drops down into place a flush floor slide ( my drivers side front slide).

Our bedroom slides sound like they have the same drive mechanisms.

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23 hours ago, bmulvenna@hotmail.com said:

The slide has inverted rollers on the inside of the coach. Does anyone know if there are rollers under the slide attached to the floor?

Maybe my 74 year old eyes are reallly bad as I have raised the slide and cannot see any rollers.

Seems to me there have to be rollers for the slide to ride on. 

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Hi Mike:

Almost all Monaco slides have rollers with the exception of the flush floor. Some gas models have bedroom slides with no rollers. Otherwise, if it is a Monaco raised floor slide it has rollers. If it is a galley slide it will have a combination of coach mounted rollers and inverted rollers. Not to confuse you but some floor plans on the upper end models like the dynasty, Exec and Sig have inverted rollers on the wardrobe slides in the bedroom.

I am assuming you are searching for rollers on your galley slide. If it has inverted rollers ( typically tucked underneath the kitchen cabinets. The rollers that are attached to the floor of the coach are going to be 9 inch rollers located near the slide opening. Most are steel with some having a hard rubber wrapped around them. On these slides we do not typically plate the rollers. Instead we install Guardian plates on the slide edges and these are normally our 300 series plates. The reason we rarely ever use CRP's ( custom roller plates ) for the rollers is that the 7 and 9 inch rollers rarely ever damage the white laminate. I have a strict policy and that is - I will not sell you something you do not need.

Typically the best way to find rollers is by using a jack. Jack up one corner of the slide and look to see if you can find them. I have inspected well over 5,000 Monaco slides and found only 2 of these slides with 9 inch rollers that ever had damage and needed CRP's. Those 2 were due to the rollers breaking and gouging the laminate. If you see no damage to the under slide of the slide and you have minimal floor rot then I advise you not to order CRP's. On some of these galley slides that have a fridge on them I always recommend a 600 series guardian plate to add more strength to the corner. Otherwise we routinely use the 300 series plate system.

In the end I have been doing this for a long time and was the inventor of the Guardian Plate system. My policy has always been to sell my customers only what they need. I have to get up every morning and look at myself in the mirror and like who I see. I wont " bleed " customers wallets just to make more money by selling them plates they do not need.

In regards to Tom's coach, if memory serves me correctly his galley slide " blew"  a corner out. That was from using the couch with the slide in. I believe that corner did not have an inverted roller but cannot remember. Tom can comment more on that. I do remember designing and then making plates for his coach and it was a real headache. His driver rear slide had the weirdest internal slide floor bracing system I have ever encountered. One of the cross braces was really inboard by a large distance. When I inspected his passenger front floor slide at a Gathering once all I could tell myself was " Here we go again ".  🙂

If you need any guidance Mike, give me, Bethany or Dustin a call. We do all we can to assist our customers.

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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, throgmartin said:

Hi Mike:

Almost all Monaco slides have rollers with the exception of the flush floor. Some gas models have bedroom slides with no rollers. Otherwise, if it is a Monaco raised floor slide it has rollers. If it is a galley slide it will have a combination of coach mounted rollers and inverted rollers. Not to confuse you but some floor plans on the upper end models like the dynasty, Exec and Sig have inverted rollers on the wardrobe slides in the bedroom.

I am assuming you are searching for rollers on your galley slide. If it has inverted rollers ( typically tucked underneath the kitchen cabinets. The rollers that are attached to the floor of the coach are going to be 9 inch rollers located near the slide opening. Most are steel with some having a hard rubber wrapped around them. On these slides we do not typically plate the rollers. Instead we install Guardian plates on the slide edges and these are normally our 300 series plates. The reason we rarely ever use CRP's ( custom roller plates ) for the rollers is that the 7 and 9 inch rollers rarely ever damage the white laminate. I have a strict policy and that is - I will not sell you something you do not need.

Typically the best way to find rollers is by using a jack. Jack up one corner of the slide and look to see if you can find them. I have inspected well over 5,000 Monaco slides and found only 2 of these slides with 9 inch rollers that ever had damage and needed CRP's. Those 2 were due to the rollers breaking and gouging the laminate. If you see no damage to the under slide of the slide and you have minimal floor rot then I advise you not to order CRP's. On some of these galley slides that have a fridge on them I always recommend a 600 series guardian plate to add more strength to the corner. Otherwise we routinely use the 300 series plate system.

In the end I have been doing this for a long time and was the inventor of the Guardian Plate system. My policy has always been to sell my customers only what they need. I have to get up every morning and look at myself in the mirror and like who I see. I wont " bleed " customers wallets just to make more money by selling them plates they do not need.

In regards to Tom's coach, if memory serves me correctly his galley slide " blew"  a corner out. That was from using the couch with the slide in. I believe that corner did not have an inverted roller but cannot remember. Tom can comment more on that. I do remember designing and then making plates for his coach and it was a real headache. His driver rear slide had the weirdest internal slide floor bracing system I have ever encountered. One of the cross braces was really inboard by a large distance. When I inspected his passenger front floor slide at a Gathering once all I could tell myself was " Here we go again ".  🙂

If you need any guidance Mike, give me, Bethany or Dustin a call. We do all we can to assist our customers.

Thanks for the verification.That is what I discovered, I have raised the slide and inspected. I have also used my flexible inspection camera. Again there are adjustable inverted rollers on the inside of the coach. I plan to order only the Guardian plates for this slide. If you recall I sent Bethany pics of the slide rot on the rear of this slide which I have now repaired. I am pretty sure it will require your 1200 series plates.

Edited by bmulvenna@hotmail.com
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3 hours ago, throgmartin said:

 

 

On these slides we do not typically plate the rollers. Instead we install Guardian plates on the slide edges and these are normally our 300 series plates. The reason we rarely ever use CRP's ( custom roller plates ) for the rollers is that the 7 and 9 inch rollers rarely ever damage the white laminate. I have a strict policy and that is - I will not sell you something you do not need.

 

 

🙂

 

That's interesting!

I've seen photo's of Guardian plate installs on IRV, where the owner installed CRP's over all rollers. Since I have only done my flush floor slide, and the bed slide (where the two rollers are near the edges and do run under the plates), I always thought plates went under all fixed rollers.

Edited by 96 EVO
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6 hours ago, throgmartin said:

Hi Mike:

Almost all Monaco slides have rollers with the exception of the flush floor. Some gas models have bedroom slides with no rollers. Otherwise, if it is a Monaco raised floor slide it has rollers. If it is a galley slide it will have a combination of coach mounted rollers and inverted rollers. Not to confuse you but some floor plans on the upper end models like the dynasty, Exec and Sig have inverted rollers on the wardrobe slides in the bedroom.

I am assuming you are searching for rollers on your galley slide. If it has inverted rollers ( typically tucked underneath the kitchen cabinets. The rollers that are attached to the floor of the coach are going to be 9 inch rollers located near the slide opening. Most are steel with some having a hard rubber wrapped around them. On these slides we do not typically plate the rollers. Instead we install Guardian plates on the slide edges and these are normally our 300 series plates. The reason we rarely ever use CRP's ( custom roller plates ) for the rollers is that the 7 and 9 inch rollers rarely ever damage the white laminate. I have a strict policy and that is - I will not sell you something you do not need.

Typically the best way to find rollers is by using a jack. Jack up one corner of the slide and look to see if you can find them. I have inspected well over 5,000 Monaco slides and found only 2 of these slides with 9 inch rollers that ever had damage and needed CRP's. Those 2 were due to the rollers breaking and gouging the laminate. If you see no damage to the under slide of the slide and you have minimal floor rot then I advise you not to order CRP's. On some of these galley slides that have a fridge on them I always recommend a 600 series guardian plate to add more strength to the corner. Otherwise we routinely use the 300 series plate system.

In the end I have been doing this for a long time and was the inventor of the Guardian Plate system. My policy has always been to sell my customers only what they need. I have to get up every morning and look at myself in the mirror and like who I see. I wont " bleed " customers wallets just to make more money by selling them plates they do not need.

In regards to Tom's coach, if memory serves me correctly his galley slide " blew"  a corner out. That was from using the couch with the slide in. I believe that corner did not have an inverted roller but cannot remember. Tom can comment more on that. I do remember designing and then making plates for his coach and it was a real headache. His driver rear slide had the weirdest internal slide floor bracing system I have ever encountered. One of the cross braces was really inboard by a large distance. When I inspected his passenger front floor slide at a Gathering once all I could tell myself was " Here we go again ".  🙂

If you need any guidance Mike, give me, Bethany or Dustin a call. We do all we can to assist our customers.

Ah…5000 coaches and time and our memories….

Rear Bed Bedroom Slide.  This is the Lippert motorized rack.  The indent was from the roller where the slide, PJ thought, bounced and broke the thin 3/16 - 1/4” board or plywood with the thin plastic laminate on the bottom.  There was absolutely NO WATER or any other damage to the edges.  Just in the pathway of the rear roller.  The indent got deeper…then spread towards the outside, but got narrower.  I filled it with Bondo and glued in the Guardian plate. It was located “quite a ways” from the corner.  Chris had to have his fabricator get special width (MY memory).  That took care of the rear roller and the front roller was within the normal range.  Had to do both, obviously, to keep the slide level. First install by me.  Chris and I went back and forth on measurements.  I had to cut of off an inch or so as I measured from the end of the slide, but should have measured from the edge of the underside aluminum frame. All went well.  Between PJ and Chris and DW’s help, they were relatively early to install.  I reversed the “gutters” on the side to get a better seal and divert the water.  In retrospect, I think the idiot assembler actually reversed and put them on UPSIDE DOWN.  8 plus years later, fit and function is still 100%.

Lets do the BAL Accuslide on the bedroom wardrobe side.  That was used on all the 2009 Camelots.and I suspect on the 2008’s.  IF someone has a cable slide (4 external exposed when extended), odds are BAL Accuslide.  If there’s only 3 or 4 NON adjustable very small diameter plastic rollers, then it is a MUST that the clearance between the top wood trim on the slide and the bottom (top of frame) mating or sliding UNDER piece be checked for clearance.  The easy way….run out the slide….and when the slide’s top molding starts to slide or move under the top molding on the frame, use a knife blade of whatever and get a relative idea of the clearances.  Then continue to extend.  Look at that gap from one side to the other.  You really need TWO thicknesses of a typical table knife blade there.  Chris can supply the thickness…but memory says TWO to be safe.  You ARE going to raise the slide and there is NO adjustment….so wood has to be cut….otherwise snap and POP goes the cables….not a cheap replacement.  Whatever thickness Chris says the plates are…I would double…or at least add 75%.  It is VERY Obvious….run the knife down the gap, making sure the blade tip is inserted all the way to the back of the trim pieces.  Might be able to use a 4” offset grinder and remove the wood. Otherwise, pull off one trim piece and plane or use a table saw to cut off the excess.

OK…MY MEMORY of the Front Drop Down Slide.  First….a CRAPPY DESIGN.  Chris, if you recall, that side had the Dometic (HEAVY) Refer on the back corner.  Then the dinette and finally the air mattress sofa.  When you made the topper, it was perfect and installed correctly in 2015.  One of the attendees at the 2015 Gathering commented on the front ponding during a rain event.  I measured and so did you.  The slide, when it extended and dropped down, would get out of “square.  If we stopped it, say midway out, it was parallel and square.  But, the weight of refrigerator, when it dropped, would lower that corner by maybe 3/4”.  That resulted in the awning topper being under more tension and the front of the topper having less tension and there was a ponding issue.  You even remade the front topper and it STILL sagged up front.  Happy to report that some 7 years and over 550 nights out, it is still in great shape.  Mine was one of the first Vinyl toppers.  Yes, it ponds…and the amount of rain and the “leveling” impacts it.  But I inspect it annually and I DID add the door edge guarding and it works perfectly and has no abrasions.  just to try to refresh your memory.  There was NO damage to the slide.  PJ did replace some loose pop rivets and “redid” a small section of the lower center frame that was slightly bulged when the umbilical tray hit the “sheeting” as Monaco did not cut it properly and it banged an edge.  No major damage and my repair, which was over 8 years old, ,was fine.  He did a little “bending” and replaced my pop rivets.  Strictly cosmetic and not functional.

OK…why the Guardian Plates?  Simple, the wide nylon or plastic glides or roller bearing plates that the rollers contacted when the slide moved were cracked and getting brittle. Installed the two correct Guardian  plates….minimum custom fitting of the corners and had to cut a smidge off the leading edge as it protruded past what Chris said and showed me.  Actually a simple job.  The final short hydraulic slide is fine….so far.  

That’s it….

 

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