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Block heater outlet


Chargerman
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I use my block heater outlet to power a small LED spotlight that I mounted to the top of my ladder to shine on my flag when I display it. It works great since I can just use the dash switch to turn it off and on. Yesterday I turned it on and no light. The light in the dash switch illuminates but it do not get 110v at the outlet. I looked for a fuse at the Intellitec modules but non are identified as “Block Heater”. I also had the DW activate the switch while I listed in the panel for a relay activating. Nothin. There is a breaker in the 110 panel for this and it is fine. Seems like there’s a relay somewhere that activates this. Does anyone know where it might be?

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On my 2000 Dynasty the electrical drawings show the relay is either inside the main 120v breaker box (under the outside cover) or just to it’s side (I don’t remember which).

My block heater outlet is a GFI - I have had several times where it just trips. Push the button back in and it’s running again for a while. No clue what causes it to trip.

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Below is a wiring diagram for an 07.  This shows the relay in a separate junction box.  It should be very close to the electrical panel box.  There is no connection to the Intellitec house multiplex system.

 

Screenshot_20220914-175730.png

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14 minutes ago, Rocketman3 said:

On my 2000 Dynasty the electrical drawings show the relay is either inside the main 120v breaker box (under the outside cover) or just to it’s side (I don’t remember which).

My block heater outlet is a GFI - I have had several times where it just trips. Push the button back in and it’s running again for a while. No clue what causes it to trip.

Hypnosis on your GFCI.  They are a lot like some, but not all….of course… of us.  They don’t age well.  They also can’t handle their moisture like they once did.  Bottom line.  Many years of home wiring repairs and upgrades and also a good friend who owned a small residential and light commercial electric and plumbing company.  His advice.  Always replace the erratic and unreliable GFCI.  BUT  verify the ground to common continuity was ZERO or properly bonded.  The other thing….GFCI’S do not like heaters.  A heater can have a small or non lethal leak.  That is why a home refrigerator circuit is on a dedicated, NON GFCI circuit.  A common complaint is a MH House GFCI will trip when there is an icemaker circuit.  Monaco cheated and just ran a loop and out every outlet on the GFCI.  Mine tripped.  I moved the icemaker circuit off it….actually ran the circuit from the LINE side of the GFCI and all the downstream outlets were on the load so all the ones near a source of water were protected.

Swap out the GFCI.  I use Eaton Wiring Devices…or Hubble or Leviton.  I used to work for the parent company of the Wiring Devices division and did audit work in their plants.  

NOW….the OTHER thing.  Use your ohm meter and test the “Load Side” (when you disconnect and pull out the GFCI)  The heater, as best I can Google, is a 1000 Watt unit.  That calculates to around 8.7 ohms.  Then test each lead to GROUND.  Use the ground on either the line side ( which might not have a ground) or the load ground.  If you have any reading….and NOT an open circuit….odds are, there is a leak.  Even a small leak can trip a good GFCI…because a GFCI is looking for a leak.

What you don’t know….is how much?  That is why there is a GFCI in the circuit…one does NOT want the black 120 line connected to the ground or the block.  Now if it was a “dead” short, the breaker would or should blow.  But why take the chance.  If a new GFCI does not solve the tripping issue, then there is a bad line to or perhaps a shorted heater….

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Ok. Thanks guys. Mine doesn’t have a relay next to the panel. Already confirmed that the GFCI is not the issue. Going to do some searching for that junction box. 

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Issue resolved. The relay was inside of the circuit breaker panel. Pulled all connectors and reset them and presto. 
 

thanks to you all for your responses and input. 

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