Bedroom slide switch now operates living room slide!

[Florainer]

We just took our 2003 HR out of storage, where it had been for 18 months, and tried opening the bedroom slide, but that switch now makes the living room slide open! This has never happened on our rig before. The switch is on the bedroom wall by the TV. Any suggestions on what's causing this and how to fix it? Thanks!

[Dr4Film]

I would check your slide out control board to see if it has any corrosion which may be causing your situation.

[Florainer]

Thanks Richard! Where can I find the slide out control board?

[jacwjames]

My slide out controller is located in the passenger side rear electrical bay where the disconnects are.  It is mounted on the bottom of the first bay. 

Here's the parts page for that electrical bay, it is item #6 and looks like this https://revrvparts.com/item-detail?itemId=51447&organizationId=9

 

1 Electrical Panel Passenger Sider 1.pdf

[Dr4Film]

15 hours ago, Florainer said:

Thanks Richard! Where can I find the slide out control board?

Can't help you with that as every coach is different. In my Windsor it is located in the Passenger side RRB as those slides are electric. My Dynasty has hydraulic slides so that control board is on the front firewall.

[Florainer]

Jim J provided great info on where to find the slide out control board on my rig. This morning I'm working on checking into its condition. We have had leaking from the side panel-to-roof seam above the rear electrical bay, so water has gotten into the bay. That seam has now been caulked with Proseal, but maybe after damage was done to the slide control panel. Thanks very, very much for the wonderful help!

[jacwjames]

28 minutes ago, Florainer said:

Jim J provided great info on where to find the slide out control board on my rig. This morning I'm working on checking into its condition. We have had leaking from the side panel-to-roof seam above the rear electrical bay, so water has gotten into the bay. That seam has now been caulked with Proseal, but maybe after damage was done to the slide control panel. Thanks very, very much for the wonderful help!

I actually have two of these controllers, my generator slide uses the same one so you could try swapping them out to see if that fixes your problem. 

 

I had the same leak, didn't cause damage in electrical bay but did cause a large area of delamination that I tried to repair using epoxy injection, a big problem.

The leak was caused by a hump in the rear cap where it mated to the roof.  This hump was not that noticeable until I completely removed the belt moulding.

I guess over time the flexing caused the seal to fail and allowed water to flow in.  The way the roof sheds water down the sides onto the top of the belt moulding resulted in large amounts of water flowing across/down the top of the belt moulding when the rig was parked a certain way.  Once I found this problem I worked on repairing the delamination first since I had to remove the belt moulding. 

Repairing the delamination was a big project that most people say don't even attempt, in hind site I probably wouldn't do it again but once I got into it I was full steam ahead, luckily I have a decent place to work on the rig and was able to use a wall to put a lot of pressure on the side after I injected the epoxy.   I did get some good advice from a former shop foreman of a large RV repair facility, told him what I want to do and he said it was worth a shot.   He said normally for small areas he drills a hole, positions the rig next to a building, injects resin and then put a large plate over the area and uses 2X4"s to put pressure on it.  My area was much bigger so I had to improvise.   Made a really large plate to fit the curve of the belt molding on the side and precut a bunch of 2 by boards that I could quickly position and the jam boards.  Did it in stages, inject some resin, put the plate an boards in place and then put pressure on it an let it cure 24 hours, repeat.  When I got above a point I could rely on gravity feed I made an injection system using compressed air that actually worked pretty well.   I think at that point someone commented that it looked like a "Mad" scientist was at work.

There is a post on this that I did.  I had to get creative on getting the epoxy behind the fiberglass but in the end I did OK.  One mistake I did was not completely sealing the holes around the drier vent and epoxy did seep out which required me scrap if off sand and then repaint that section.  The side is now solid, some rippling affect but only noticable from certain angles.  Again, in hind site I'd probably not do it again.

Once I got the delamination repaird and tried to repair I stripped all the old caulk from the belt moulding all the way around and then used Geocel to seal.  This was a several day process but luckily I was able to work off a set of scaffolding which made it somewhat easier and a lot safer. 

Edited April 15, 2023 by jacwjames

[Florainer]

I'm sorry for the delay in this post on how this situation currently stands, but we took the rig on a short trip over the last few days, and I wanted to see how the slides performed during that trip. Before the trip a neighbor came by, and he suggested pulling the relays off the slide-out control board, and swapping their positions on the board to see what effect that would have. The result has been that if the relay in the "main slide-out relay" position is swapped with the relay in the "rear slide-out relay" position, in one arrangement both slides will go out, but not in, and in the other arrangement they'll come in, but not out. This makes me think that one or both of these relays has gone bad, so I've ordered replacement ones on eBay (that ship from China), since that's the only place I could find them. They are Song Chuan 792H-1C-C relays. Hopefully the new ones will fix the problem. Thanks very much for the help I received with this!

[det944]

I had a similar issue with my Dynasty last weekend. Found condensation on the clear cover for the slide control board on the front firewall. Removing the cover and letting everything dry out for a couple of days seems to have solved the issue. I noticed there is no vent hole in the control board enclosure to allow temperature stabilization. Has anyone else had this issue? I'll try to add pics later.

[Tom Cherry]

if you have a condensation issue and drill a hole, then make sure you use a Duck Bill fitting on the bottom like was used on the Norcold and Dometic drain holes (and maybe on the AC units).  You do NOT want to splash moisture up into the bay.  WD40 was designed to display water...by NASA.  I use it to dry out or displace water in electronics and then spray some ELECTRONIC (not Electrical) contact cleaner for those that are picky about a little lubricant.  I dried out the pump pressure regulator cavity on the RV55 pump and then cleaned it and sealed it and that was several years ago and the moisture was a BLACK water flood.  So, it works....it just bothers some folks...  LOL.

[det944]

Great advice, I think I'll try obtaining the duckbill fitting and drilling a hole. Thanks!

 

 

[Florainer]

I wanted to give an update on this topic, for future reference in case it helps. Yesterday the replacement relays that I ordered on eBay arrived from China. I installed and tested the setup, and now the slide outs both work properly. So this, for us, was the problem and the solution. The two replacement relays cost $18.16. Our slide out control board is in a different location than Dan T's, so we didn't have that condensation problem. Thanks for the help given on this!