RedSectorA Posted July 9, 2023 Share Posted July 9, 2023 Not sure what is, I just broke it while reinstalling. It’s in the Rear Run Bay and connected to one side of the Battery Boost solenoid connectors. Brand name and part number would be great but at least just knowing what it is would be fantastic. thanks in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will52 Posted July 9, 2023 Share Posted July 9, 2023 fuse 50 amp? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marine Boy Posted July 9, 2023 Share Posted July 9, 2023 It is a circuit breaker/fuse. Probably thermal and auto reset. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solution Tom Cherry Posted July 9, 2023 Solution Share Posted July 9, 2023 1 hour ago, Marine Boy said: It is a circuit breaker/fuse. Probably thermal and auto reset. It is a AUTO RESETTABLE Circuit Breaker. Northern Tool and Amazon are full of them. You will need to go to your prints to find out the correct amperage....unless you can read it on the broken parts. I'm a bit confused. You show one that appears to be intact. But you have one that is broken. You will have to see WHAT doesn't or is not working. The picture with all the "Copper" is called a BUSS. That is on the HOUSE. But, I can't tell from the picture where the broken device went. If you don't know or can't trace WHAT is was powering and want the correct value. THEN, you need to check the wire size (on the load or downstream side). #14 - 15 A; #12 - 20 A; #10 - 30 Amp; # 8 - 40A; #6 - 50 A The fuse is usually to protect the wiring....not the device. SO, look at the wire size stamped on the wire or peel back the insulation and get a pair of mics or calipers and check the diameter....or find a piece that looks the same (the stranded wire size...not the outside jacket) and compare. That's the old fashioned and PURE LOGIC and NEC Code method.... Let us know. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedSectorA Posted July 9, 2023 Author Share Posted July 9, 2023 (edited) 3 hours ago, Tom Cherry said: It is a AUTO RESETTABLE Circuit Breaker. Northern Tool and Amazon are full of them. You will need to go to your prints to find out the correct amperage....unless you can read it on the broken parts. I'm a bit confused. You show one that appears to be intact. But you have one that is broken. You will have to see WHAT doesn't or is not working. The picture with all the "Copper" is called a BUSS. That is on the HOUSE. But, I can't tell from the picture where the broken device went. If you don't know or can't trace WHAT is was powering and want the correct value. THEN, you need to check the wire size (on the load or downstream side). #14 - 15 A; #12 - 20 A; #10 - 30 Amp; # 8 - 40A; #6 - 50 A The fuse is usually to protect the wiring....not the device. SO, look at the wire size stamped on the wire or peel back the insulation and get a pair of mics or calipers and check the diameter....or find a piece that looks the same (the stranded wire size...not the outside jacket) and compare. That's the old fashioned and PURE LOGIC and NEC Code method.... Let us know. Hi Tom, Thank you for the detailed explanation Tom, I suspected it was a breaker but never seen one of that variety before. I had looked on the Wiring diagram but unfortunately it was too blurry to read. Since it's a 12 gauge wire I will be ordering the 20 amp version. As a heads up last picture shows that same breaker when the plastic initially cracked, I touched it afterwards and it broke. It's sitting right above the BUSS and connects the BUSS to the Battery Boost Solenoid. If you look at the second picture right below Battery Boost Solenoid you will see the breaker, that picture was taken before I changed the isolator and battery maintainer. Took the time to clean everything while I was there which is why I broke the breaker. Thank you all for your help, great community. Can't wait to be giving advice instead of receiving them. Edited July 9, 2023 by RedSectorA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rikadoo Posted July 9, 2023 Share Posted July 9, 2023 Hey Dan thats a circuit breaker, ised in many different applications, when researching it specify “Cole hersee” mfg. they have been building them for some time. On the case if shoud specify amprage. You can get them in “auto” reset or manuall style… that said the auto style is great but can be mis leading in that it will reset to a fault. Im all about brand an the Cole Hersee is a brand many chase… Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterSchweizer Posted July 9, 2023 Share Posted July 9, 2023 Just an FYI a looks like most of your electrical connections are corroded, so you may want t o go thru all your connectors and grounds and clean them up and seal them so you can avoid lots of issues in the future. And yes there are many! One step at a time - Pay me now of or pay me latter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedSectorA Posted July 10, 2023 Author Share Posted July 10, 2023 2 hours ago, PeterSchweizer said: Just an FYI a looks like most of your electrical connections are corroded, so you may want t o go thru all your connectors and grounds and clean them up and seal them so you can avoid lots of issues in the future. And yes there are many! One step at a time - Pay me now of or pay me latter Hi Peter, That’s exactly what I was doing today while changing the isolator and maintainer, everything is nice and clean/ protected now. I forgot to take pictures after I finished. Thank you for the heads up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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