Wiring Diagram for a 2008 Monaco Camelot 36PDQ

[JohnC3]

I found wiring diagrams for the 2007 Camelot and the 2009 Camelot, but am not sure which one I should use. Any Advice?

I am trying to trace down a fault with the rear slides where I don't have power at the slide switch. Front slides have power to the switch and work fine. 

The slides worked when I stopped (1 wk ago) and just wouldn't work when I wanted to bring them in. 

Since the front slides work, I don't think its the ignition interlock.

I have checked the 12v fuse in the bathroom 12v fuse panel and the one in the electrical bay (believe it is connected with the ignition interlock) and both were fine.

My next step is to pull the Washer from the closet (the slide controller is located under the W/D floor!) and check the fuse and resettable relay. I will then relocate the  slide control circuit board to the large closet next to the W/D cabinet (So it can be worked on without removing the washer!)

Thanks for any advice you might give.

John

[96 EVO]

Personally, I've had better electrical success using the '09 schematics.

[Tom Cherry]

36 minutes ago, JohnC3 said:

I found wiring diagrams for the 2007 Camelot and the 2009 Camelot, but am not sure which one I should use. Any Advice?

I am trying to trace down a fault with the rear slides where I don't have power at the slide switch. Front slides have power to the switch and work fine. 

The slides worked when I stopped (1 wk ago) and just wouldn't work when I wanted to bring them in. 

Since the front slides work, I don't think its the ignition interlock.

I have checked the 12v fuse in the bathroom 12v fuse panel and the one in the electrical bay (believe it is connected with the ignition interlock) and both were fine.

My next step is to pull the Washer from the closet (the slide controller is located under the W/D floor!) and check the fuse and resettable relay. I will then relocate the  slide control circuit board to the large closet next to the W/D cabinet (So it can be worked on without removing the washer!)

Thanks for any advice you might give.

John

I agree with Ben...the 09 Prints are MUCH easier to read.  However, they may NOT work.  BUT...here is what you need to look at or provide pictures...  or check

The rear slides LOOK, from the floorplan layout, the same as MINE.  If so, then the rear long slide (BED) will NOT have anything "under" the slide as you look from the bottom.  The wardrobe slide will have two cables on the exterior on either side.

OK...now assuming that is what you have....then start to follow the PRINTS... AND as usual...I LEARNED SOMETHING....ALWAY...

SO... I THOUGHT that the power for BOTH the front and the rear, at the switches, came from a COMMON SOURCE.  NOT SO, I find out.  Assuming you have Hydraulics up front....there is a RELAY that powers them...and it is controlled by Fuse 17 UP FRONT.  BUT, the REAR slides get THEIR power from another SOURCE....SURPRISE... and I am hunting it down....

SO HERE GOES...Look at the rear print... YES... that pesky Fuse 17 Relay up front gets into the ACT.  I would look at House Fuse (in the bathroom or wherever the house fuse panel is...might be in your bedroom...I do NOT know.  That says that CIRCUIT 3 or HF3 is the POWER for the slides.  I also included a print for that.  BY NOW, you are on OVERLOAD>>>>, so here is how I THINK it is laid out...and what to look for and WHERE...

There is a FOUR relay BOX (see the Bedroom Slide) in the WARDROBE.  The infamous REAR RELAY Ignition Relay (top left in the print) is HIDDEN.  YES... Monaco loved to do this.  If you look at the House Fusebox print....a LOT of stuff is hidden and here is the key.  Wherever your 3 Intellitec Modules are (the black ones with 10 circuits and ten 10 Amp fuses....you have to pull that panel loose.  You can Disconnect the modules (not unplug) and then the back panel lifts away.  BINGO...the hidden mess

Inside there, if you look at the House Fuse Box print...you will find a terminal strip and a BUNCH of Circuit breakers. AS BEST I can noodle OUT.... the RELAY (Ignition Lockout) is there.  I THINK it is the same RELAY that locks out the Front...but there is a RELAY upfront as well.  

YES...this is very confusing.  NOW...start to chase things down.  If the HF3 is OK, then you need to find the LOCKOUT relay.  NOW...don't get confused....as I seem to be.  The Front Slide Ignition Relay is a relay UP FRONT.  It then provides Power to the Front slides... BUT, the circuit also goes to the REAR slide lockout relay.  If that circuit (fuse 17 is ON which lets the ignition switch energize the relay...)... NOTHING works.  I THINK there are separate relays....front (FRB) and rear (behind the MPX modules). 

BOTTOM LINE....you COULD steal, temporarily, POWER from either of the CENTER Front switches and then jumper to the rear switches...and BOTH should work.  The MAIN power for the slide motors comes from the Control Board...

NOW...to finally CONFUSE YOU.  Monaco installed, I believe, two of the exact same looking 4 relay control boards.  ONE is for the Fantastic Fans.  The other is for the Slides.  You can IDENTIFY WHICH IS THE SLIDES....it has a large RED wire (see the Bedroom Print) on the lower left side.  If you blow up the 2011 Prints...there is a better picture of how the Intellitec modules are powered.  BLOW it up a bit and go about 3/4ths to the RIGHT and also DOWN.  Look for the Intellitec Modules.  Right under the THIRD ONE is the same board for the fans....NOTICE It does NOT have a RED wire....so when or if you find BOTH.  The RED Wire input, from a 30 Amp breaker is the slide and the other one is for the fans.

NOW...That, unfortunately is it...TRY the House Fuse.  Then, I would seriously consider using a 3M Scotch Lock on ONE of the wires to the CENTER of the FRONT and then using that for a temporary connection to one REAR...bring it in.  Then the OTHER rear...bring it in...and then taping off the temporary jumper....and shove it back behind the black control panel.  You will get home...and THEN figure it out.

Good Luck... Let us know what the SIMPLE fix was...I'm hoping for a FUSE>

NOW>..while you are inside or behind the MPX modules...PLEASE TIGHTEN EVERY NUT THERE OR ANY SCREW TERMINAL.  These are notorious for vibrating loose and causing all sorts of issues...

I KNOW Ben is chuckling...but that is what the PRINTS say... 

 

 

Front Electrical Decal.pdf Bedroom sllideouts.pdf Living Slideouts.pdf House Fusebox and solenoid.pdf 2011 Camelot MUX 38110675B (Schematic Mult.pdf

[JohnC3]

7 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

I agree with Ben...the 09 Prints are MUCH easier to read.  However, they may NOT work.  BUT...here is what you need to look at or provide pictures...  or check

The rear slides LOOK, from the floorplan layout, the same as MINE.  If so, then the rear long slide (BED) will NOT have anything "under" the slide as you look from the bottom.  The wardrobe slide will have two cables on the exterior on either side.

OK...now assuming that is what you have....then start to follow the PRINTS... AND as usual...I LEARNED SOMETHING....ALWAY...

SO... I THOUGHT that the power for BOTH the front and the rear, at the switches, came from a COMMON SOURCE.  NOT SO, I find out.  Assuming you have Hydraulics up front....there is a RELAY that powers them...and it is controlled by Fuse 17 UP FRONT.  BUT, the REAR slides get THEIR power from another SOURCE....SURPRISE... and I am hunting it down....

SO HERE GOES...Look at the rear print... YES... that pesky Fuse 17 Relay up front gets into the ACT.  I would look at House Fuse (in the bathroom or wherever the house fuse panel is...might be in your bedroom...I do NOT know.  That says that CIRCUIT 3 or HF3 is the POWER for the slides.  I also included a print for that.  BY NOW, you are on OVERLOAD>>>>, so here is how I THINK it is laid out...and what to look for and WHERE...

There is a FOUR relay BOX (see the Bedroom Slide) in the WARDROBE.  The infamous REAR RELAY Ignition Relay (top left in the print) is HIDDEN.  YES... Monaco loved to do this.  If you look at the House Fusebox print....a LOT of stuff is hidden and here is the key.  Wherever your 3 Intellitec Modules are (the black ones with 10 circuits and ten 10 Amp fuses....you have to pull that panel loose.  You can Disconnect the modules (not unplug) and then the back panel lifts away.  BINGO...the hidden mess

Inside there, if you look at the House Fuse Box print...you will find a terminal strip and a BUNCH of Circuit breakers. AS BEST I can noodle OUT.... the RELAY (Ignition Lockout) is there.  I THINK it is the same RELAY that locks out the Front...but there is a RELAY upfront as well.  

YES...this is very confusing.  NOW...start to chase things down.  If the HF3 is OK, then you need to find the LOCKOUT relay.  NOW...don't get confused....as I seem to be.  The Front Slide Ignition Relay is a relay UP FRONT.  It then provides Power to the Front slides... BUT, the circuit also goes to the REAR slide lockout relay.  If that circuit (fuse 17 is ON which lets the ignition switch energize the relay...)... NOTHING works.  I THINK there are separate relays....front (FRB) and rear (behind the MPX modules). 

BOTTOM LINE....you COULD steal, temporarily, POWER from either of the CENTER Front switches and then jumper to the rear switches...and BOTH should work.  The MAIN power for the slide motors comes from the Control Board...

NOW...to finally CONFUSE YOU.  Monaco installed, I believe, two of the exact same looking 4 relay control boards.  ONE is for the Fantastic Fans.  The other is for the Slides.  You can IDENTIFY WHICH IS THE SLIDES....it has a large RED wire (see the Bedroom Print) on the lower left side.  If you blow up the 2011 Prints...there is a better picture of how the Intellitec modules are powered.  BLOW it up a bit and go about 3/4ths to the RIGHT and also DOWN.  Look for the Intellitec Modules.  Right under the THIRD ONE is the same board for the fans....NOTICE It does NOT have a RED wire....so when or if you find BOTH.  The RED Wire input, from a 30 Amp breaker is the slide and the other one is for the fans.

NOW...That, unfortunately is it...TRY the House Fuse.  Then, I would seriously consider using a 3M Scotch Lock on ONE of the wires to the CENTER of the FRONT and then using that for a temporary connection to one REAR...bring it in.  Then the OTHER rear...bring it in...and then taping off the temporary jumper....and shove it back behind the black control panel.  You will get home...and THEN figure it out.

Good Luck... Let us know what the SIMPLE fix was...I'm hoping for a FUSE>

NOW>..while you are inside or behind the MPX modules...PLEASE TIGHTEN EVERY NUT THERE OR ANY SCREW TERMINAL.  These are notorious for vibrating loose and causing all sorts of issues...

I KNOW Ben is chuckling...but that is what the PRINTS say... 

 

 

Front Electrical Decal.pdf 1.63 MB · 0 downloads Bedroom sllideouts.pdf 85.57 kB · 0 downloads Living Slideouts.pdf 80.2 kB · 0 downloads House Fusebox and solenoid.pdf 90.25 kB · 0 downloads 2011 Camelot MUX 38110675B (Schematic Mult.pdf 102.84 kB · 0 downloads

Thanks Tom,

After I got an friendly RV Park employee to lift the washer/dryer out, it was my old nemesis (The 20A resettable circuit breaker on the Slide controller board)

I decided I had enough being bossed around with the controller placement under the Washer/Dryer and decided to relocate the controller to the upper sidewall of the upper portion of the cabinet (almost to roof level.) I had to get 7ft of #10 Red & Black THHN along with some butt splices, but now I can fix this easier, without taking anything out of the laundry compartment. I am going to build and install a box to protect it, but it works in the new location. 

Here's a cute twist. The Resettable fuse I replaced wasn't bad, Driving on the Alaskan roads had just vibrated it until it wouldn't work. I pulled it replaced it and it worked. Son Then I pulled it again and gently compressed the female spade connectors it went into. Then I removed the extra 1.4 inch tab (this breaker could have spades 3 different lengths, the middle length matched the original unit. I thought the extra wouldn't matter DOH!... Extra moment arm to allow bumps to shake it loose.

Hopefully it will continue to work easily now. I was getting really tired of manually cranking out the rear slides!!! My battery powered 3/8" socket wrench would work on the bed, but bow what a pain when you had it 80% in and the extensions came undone... and they seemed to come undone at least a couple of times.

You can mark this as resolved.

Thanks again, 

BTW, Based on the Diagrams, I got the mistaken impression that it was the interlock (or maybe the interlock relay). Nope. I tested it using the spare relay (Thanks Monaco) on in the front electronics cabinet, no change.

John

[Happycarz]

Hopefully, this is not too fuzzy and is readable. 

[Tom Cherry]

41 minutes ago, Happycarz said:

Hopefully, this is not too fuzzy and is readable. 

@JohnC3 & @Happycarz

Thanks for the posts.  There are so many subtle or running changes that Monaco made without documentation… and theynwere made RUNNING and on the floor…then MAYBE tell the engineers.  My 09 uses a simplier board…one someone could build a d make work.  The 08, now I am vaguely remembering, had the more “complex” controllers.  

FWIW, John, you sound very capable of understanding the relay logic on the 2009 board and if your board goes south and I can’t recall the vafious vendors that Monaco used for these custom applications (Intellitec was one and maybe KB or sometimes Lippert if id was a “package), then buikdong a new board to work would be a good fix.  The switches are the same and there is the infamous  “lockout”.  I don’t know if there are any PCB or such on the 08, but my OK board is just s relay chassis and 4 of them.  The plugs to the motor are probably the same…and hardwiring instead of multi-pin connectors WORKS

[96 EVO]

Harry, that board is in the same location (under the false floor, PS back corner of the bedroom) even with the laundry equipment in the bathroom?

I'm sure at some point I'll have to replace one of those fuses. 

[Happycarz]

Why Monaco put the control board under the false floor, which is inaccessible with the slide in is beyond me. I moved it to my sliding door closet.

That unused space is now my solar closet for controllers, circuit breakers and shut off switches. 

Fortunately, I have a closet there on my 40’ Camelot.  Some of the longer Camelot’s hav a washer/drier there. Especially in that later case, it would be advisable to move the controller to the sliding door closet. With the long controller lead wires, in my case, allowed the relocation without adding extensions to the wires.
 

 

[96 EVO]

Right! Never thought of it being inaccessible with that slide closed!

That's engineering at it's finest right there 😁! 

Edited August 16, 2023 by 96 EVO