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Happycarz

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Everything posted by Happycarz

  1. My Magnadyne is a variation of yours, but pretty close. There are two fuses for it. One is for the memory and clock, I believe, and other is to power it on.
  2. The valve with the gray knob is a tempering valve, mixing cold water with hot water. This is to prevents someone from scalding themselves when they don’t have the ability to adjust the shower knob.
  3. You have several Intellitec modules that control the lights and other things. Some coaches have them in the rear closet. Each circuit is fused at that module. The light switch will light up like normal but the lights won’t come on if the fuse is blown. If it is blown, you need to find out why. My Camelot has the lite version of the Intellitec system with only three modules. Yours has many more modules. But, you now know what to look for.
  4. Bill, Monaco got it almost right when spraying foam, but left some voids. I filled them in so all air had to travel through the cooling stack. Every year I give the stack the Simple Green treatment. Then every two or three years I unbolt the condenser, cut the foam away from the A/C lines and swing the condenser out away from the CAC. This allows me a better cleaning of the CAC and radiator. When leaving home when 110° and climbing 6% grades, I want the cooling system as close to 100% as I can get it. Ali, Does your dash A/C cool normally? If the condenser is leaking you would think the dash air would be hot.
  5. Model year 2008 Camelot had running changes, so mine is different than yours. The components do the same thing, they’re just laid out differently Hope this helps.
  6. #2 is your CAC, intercooler. #3 should be your hydraulic cooler. The transmission cooler should be underneath between the radiator fan and engine, down low. It will be a square box 4” x 4” , 24” long (approx) with a radiator hose at each end two hydraulic lines.
  7. Hey Kurt, Sorry that I missed this post of yours. Yes, I did use one fuse, to keep it simple. That was many years ago and has never failed.
  8. Hi Loel, I ordered this coach and took factory delivery. The only repair on the water heater is the flex line that was getting hard and cracked. So, being proactive as I am, I replaced it. I added the black pipe insulation on the red PEX. Other than those two things, what you see is factory original. Theres a reason they are called snowflakes, with each being different.
  9. That would be easy to miss. I need another picture from a better view. I bought a check valve for my system to put in the spare parts bin. It looks similar the ones in your pictures. Now I know where it goes. I was thinking it was in the wet bay behind the white panel. Are there two in the system?
  10. I would think if the tempering valve was fouling with water deposits it could affect the whole hot water system. My red, hot wate,r PEX to the faucets is in the gray pipe insulation.
  11. You connect into the high beam and low beam respective wires between where they enter the firewall area and where each wire splits the right and left headlights.
  12. Then let’s try these: https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/floor-plan-puzzle-37687.html
  13. This has been discussed in the past on IRV2. https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/model-designation-letters-224870.html
  14. Actually, it was Tom with that response. I’ll include some pictures that might help, if you’re still working on it. I’ve been away for a bit. I have a 80a circuit breaker, that goes to slide motor mounted to the firewall. Yours doesn’t have such, so you have to grab power, as Tom stated, from the FRB. Monaco used the stud on the C/B to power the fog lights through a relay. When I installed my two headlight relays, I followed suit. Like Tom said, I found the 68 & 69 wires before the split to the left and right headlights. My fog light relay was attached to the wood block encased in the fiberglass above the headlight. I used that same position to add an L bracket and a piece of wood for mounting the relays. Besides mine having power at the firewall, just follow Tom’s instructions. No need to put fuse holders by the headlights. It would make more sense to have them in the FRB with the other fuses Hopefully, the pictures will aid you.
  15. 67 doesn’t actually come from the headlight switch. With so many low beam issues due to scorched wires at the steering column, it was easier to state it that way to fix the issue immediately. If 67 has power, the circuit through the relays and VIP, is a moot point. Poorly stated on my part. If 67 doesn’t have power, the one would use the schematics to see the cause of such. Sorry for the confusion.
  16. But, we can turn your Dynasty into a Camelot! LOL! I still have 3 sets of Camelot emblems left, for the Camelot owners that are reading this.
  17. Remember, it’s a hobby! Keep that in mind and you’ll be fine.
  18. Obtaining the paint formulas for a Monaco coach is a two step process. First is to get the paint codes for your particular coach. Those codes could be in one of several places. They could be on the build sheet in the owner’s folder, on the driver’s seat pedestal, or on the back of a cabinet door. Once you have the codes, email them to Industrial Finishes and they will email back the formulas to you. With the formulas in hand, you can have your local automotive paint store mix the paint for you. (Give Industrial Finishes a call first. 800.531.1305) https://industrialfinishes.com
  19. Ben, your coach air must be leaking rapidly! But, then again, I don’t run 110lbs in my bike tires. Have you put your snow tires on your e-bike yet? It’s getting that time.
  20. I’m in Bob’s court. I too use the double female adapter for the same reason Bob does. I like having control over the built up air pressure escaping the hose in a place that is easier to use two hands. But, to each their own!
  21. Can you tell if it is the upper latch or lower latch that is coming loose? Or are both coming loose? Like I said above, I had to move the striker bolts out, maybe a ¼” to keep mine from poppping loose. Each door is a bit different, so it is a trial and error method make sure the latch fully engages the second click. I know mine was frustrating until I figured it out. Sorry it is such a pain.
  22. The bolt head doesn’t move in relation to the tire. The bracket with culprit bolt is welded to the axle. The trailing arm, that the bolt holds the in place, can pivot about the bolt as the suspension moves up and down, but the bracket can’t move. Hence, the bolt head cannot move in relation to the tire. Also, there is no tire flex at top of tire by the bolt. ⅜ - ½” spacers will offset the wheel and tire from the bolt head. Massey’s RV & Diesel Repair has been working on Monaco’s for years and a call to them might be in order. The long time service manager retired two years ago, so they might have an answer, and maybe not. When calling them, if they say bring it in to look at it, then they don’t know the answer off the top of their head and just pass. Kaiser Brake & Alignment in Eugene, Oregon is another one worth calling. If you get an old timer he might just know the spacer you need.
  23. After thinking about that, it makes sense. Thanks for the clarification.
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