Happycarz

My 2¢ worth. I haven’t seen it mentioned so I am just verifying: 1.) You have a huge fan blowing on the condenser. The bigger the better. Use what you have, on high speed. 2.) You have the engine running on high idle, at 1200RPM.

Sorry, that just isn’t right. Eagle Plastic, who supposedly was the manufacturer, doesn’t list them anymore. So, where is Radwell getting them from?

Once upon a time, I did have the spec sheet for the 2008 Camelot. It is 8 13/16”, for both the front and the rear ride height valves.

When you get finished, you will want to replace the black plastic bushing that sits in the door edge where the deadbolt extends and retracts. https://www.radwell.com/en-US/Buy/EAGLE PLASTICS/EAGLE PLASTICS/MP7510

Here is on guys fix for the copper wipers wearing of on the reel of his Shoreline / Southwire reel. Solution is on page 2 of the thread. https://www.irv2.com/forums/f24/shoreline-power-cord-reel-question-481231.html

Double check the wires going to/from HI/LO column switch. I have seen three coaches with this issue. You might get lucky. Regardless of where you find the fault, headlight relays would be in order once the fault is repaired. Your coach may or might not have the white wires to the HI/LO beam switch. The ones with the white wire had labels and circuit numbers. Those numbers for that circuit seemed to be consistent with different models. Hopefully, the pictures will help.

Go back up toward the beginning of this thread to see the picture of my valve, with the part number still on it.

I couldn’t build air and I tried a governor first. No joy. So I followed the Cummins QuickServe repair manual to diagnose it. In the compressor head is a spool valve the shuttles back and forth. Cummins has a process to feed the head ATF to free it up. It probably would work better on a gummy valve rather than my stuck valve. As I was on the way out of town, with friends waiting on me, I bought a new compressor head. Replacing it was a challenge with the compressor still in place. Fortunately, I have a side radiator. Otherwise the compressor would have to be removed to replace the head. Once the head was off, I verified that the valve was stuck, firmly. (When I returned home, I was able to free the valve with carb cleaner and a lot of work. Cummins procedure would not have help mine.) The new head fixed my issue. This is not your issue. I bring it up so others will know that the compressor head valve can get stuck. Governors, air driers, check valves, air leaks and now compressor head valves all can cause low air. Take your choice. But, share your story.

You are a good sleuth to find that connector. Perseverance pays off, I’m impressed . A job well done.

When I had my 08 Liberty, I read the manual for flat towing. Jeep wanted the key left in the unlocked position so the steering wheel would turn while towing it. But, my steering wheel didn’t seem to lock when in my driveway, key out and me struggling to turn the wheel 180° back and forth. Hmmm, went to loose gravel lot, took key out and turned the steering wheel lock to lock. There is no steering wheel locking pawl on the automatic transmission equipped 08 Liberty’s. What’s with that?! I found out that the manual transmission equipped Liberty’s did have a steering wheel lock. They wrote the manual as one fits all. My traveling buddy also had an 08 Liberty automatic and neither of us ever disconnect the battery cable. We just removed the key, locked the car, and towed it. You can try the above test to verify there is no steering wheel lock, and if you feel comfortable with this procedure, you can tow as my buddy and I did for years. If you’re not comfortable, go with a battery disconnect kit.

Don’t forget to look on the inlet side of the pump for the small filter bowl with the mesh screen inside it. The removable bowl sometimes cracks, or just comes loose, sucking air with the water into the water pump causing the pump to run excessively.

I google the part number, H42C-2212-000, off the valve in my picture. The new one shown, is a replacement for the OE valve. https://www.comfortairgr.com/product/electronic-coolant-valve-ranco-h42c-2212-000-046-2212-000/ YIKES!!!!! $295.74 from the above link. Look around on this page, then call them. http://acmeairparts.com/rvacheaterparts.html#!/Heater-valves-and-Cables/c/16022427 I needed a new evaporator box and had questions. The fellow I spoke to sounded like the owner, was very pleasant, and could answer all my questions. And his prices were way lower than his competitor. Looking at the heater valves though, I don’t know if there is a cheap way out. Maybe he will have some insight for you.

When touring the Oregon factory, the folks there stated, like Ben said, that coaches were assigned a sequential number, regardless of the model. Oregon made side radiator coaches, while Indiana made rear radiator coaches. In Oregon you would see a Navigator next to a Camelot. You would have to look closely to figure which model was what, as they were all non painted with no emblems. Why the difference in hot water valves is a mystery.

I don’t know if this valve is interchangeable with yours, but assume it would as it is using same dash controls. Darn snowflakes. My 2008 Camelot is an early build, as I ordered my it in April 2007 and took factory delivery that June. What is your coach number (71xxxx) if you don’t mind sharing? Also when was it made? Tom, what does your heater viable look like?

If you don’t need the outside switch on the bottom of the awning arm, you can eliminate the SS cube relay and wire it directly from switch to motor.

Ken, stop looking! You have only what is located behind the switch panel. If you had a wind sensor you would have a module, but the Carfree Eclipse has only what you have found. Mine is same way.

With my Camelot, I use the pump 100% of the time. I leave home with soft water and it last 10 days to two weeks. If on long trip I fill my tank and continue with using my pump. My first pump lasted 12 years and I replaced it with the ARV 55, which had similar specs to the OE pump. This one has 5 years on it. When the pump is constantly used, it lasts. When the coach was new, the pump really rattled the plastic floor in the wet bay. I installed a small piece of piece of plywood using soft rubber mounts at the screws. Then I mounted the pump on the board in the same fashion, double insulated. Now it has to be dead quiet in the coach to hear the pump, or me concentrating to hear it. I leave the pump switch on 24/7. I like the volume and I like the flow of the pump. I usually plug the electrical cord in when I arrive at the campground and call it good. When either of my holding tanks get 2/3 full I’ll empty them. BTW, my new SaniCon turbo 600 can dump a tank in less than one minute. My last SaniCon took minutes and minutes to dump. For years I used my slinky. After researching, among friends, I jumped on the Turbo 600. I love it. So, to repeat myself, I’m one that uses the water pump exclusively for my onboard water supply.

Kevi, What model Holiday Rambler do you have? Scepter? Or, other model. Pictures of rear run bay would help. Also, what are you adding to the electrical system?

As Ben said, you can adjust these thermostatic switches. GM used these same switches 50 years ago. The capillary bulb on the end of the tubing monitors the evaporator temperature and applies pressure against a spring loaded set of contacts. If the evaporator gets below freezing, the contacts open, turning off the compressor clutch. Once the temperature rises and the capillary bulb pressure drop below the spring rate, the contacts close and the compressor engages. Using a small Torx, or even a flat bladed screwdriver, you can adjust the cycling temperature up or down from the outside of the thermostatic switch. But since the adjusting screw is out of sight, toward the firewall, it would be wise to unscrew it while trying the different adjustments. Once happy with the cycling temperature, screw it back on the evaporator box.. Yellow arrow points to adjusting screw on end of spring .

http://acmeairparts.com/rvacheaterparts.html

My Magnadyne is a variation of yours, but pretty close. There are two fuses for it. One is for the memory and clock, I believe, and other is to power it on.

The valve with the gray knob is a tempering valve, mixing cold water with hot water. This is to prevents someone from scalding themselves when they don’t have the ability to adjust the shower knob.

You have several Intellitec modules that control the lights and other things. Some coaches have them in the rear closet. Each circuit is fused at that module. The light switch will light up like normal but the lights won’t come on if the fuse is blown. If it is blown, you need to find out why. My Camelot has the lite version of the Intellitec system with only three modules. Yours has many more modules. But, you now know what to look for.

Bill, Monaco got it almost right when spraying foam, but left some voids. I filled them in so all air had to travel through the cooling stack. Every year I give the stack the Simple Green treatment. Then every two or three years I unbolt the condenser, cut the foam away from the A/C lines and swing the condenser out away from the CAC. This allows me a better cleaning of the CAC and radiator. When leaving home when 110° and climbing 6% grades, I want the cooling system as close to 100% as I can get it. Ali, Does your dash A/C cool normally? If the condenser is leaking you would think the dash air would be hot.

Model year 2008 Camelot had running changes, so mine is different than yours. The components do the same thing, they’re just laid out differently Hope this helps.