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400 ISL Rear Rad Fan noise just started. Fan clutch?


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A new noise started when we went from Albuquerque to Carlsbad.  it changes with RPMS, worst around 1600RPM when accelerating.  It isn't as bad when cruising at hwy speed but is noticeable.  It doesn't seem to change with the boost.  I tried to spin the fan after we stopped for the night it was stiff until I took tension off the belt then it spun easily.  I turned the tensioner pulley and it seemed to turn easily.  The belt does not appear to be damaged.

I am wondering if it is the fan clutch.  If it is and the clutch fails completely does that mean the fan will just turn with the engine regardless.  We climbed almost 4000 ft today and as long as I took it easy and stayed in a lower gear there was no issues with heat.  210 was the highest I saw.

 

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Your fan is direct drive, it does not have a clutch. Check for a cracKed exhaust manifold or exhaust leak than can make strange noises. If you need help in Carlsbad get in touch with Phil Carrol, he lives there. If you cannot reach him let me know I have his number. He had a car dealership there for many years.

Kenneth

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Yes it can. Take a good look at it and look for the leak if you have one. There are some temp band aid fixes. Some high heat exhaust heat tape wrap and some products like JB Weld. It could be just an exhaust gasket also that could be replaced in El Paso. Be sure and check around turbo also.

Did you check idler arm when it was hot? Metal expands when hot. If cold it might not drag as bad. Be sure and check alternator and A/C clutch to spin freely. Another thing that can make those noises is a u-joint on the drive shaft. Can you rev motor in park and duplicate the noise? 

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As mentioned, the fan may not have a clutch. My 2008 Endeavor does not.

I believe changing the idler pulley is recommended at a certain point. I have not changed mine but only have 55K miles on the coach. I have changed the belt and the fan itself long long ago with one from Source Engineering. The fan is far quieter and eats up a lot less hp. It is substantial. I did acceleration testing before and after. My mileage increased and the noise dropped 5 db at the rear of the RV.

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12 minutes ago, myrontruex said:

As mentioned, the fan may not have a clutch. My 2008 Endeavor does not.

I believe changing the idler pulley is recommended at a certain point. I have not changed mine but only have 55K miles on the coach. I have changed the belt and the fan itself long long ago with one from Source Engineering. The fan is far quieter and eats up a lot less hp. It is substantial. I did acceleration testing before and after. My mileage increased and the noise dropped 5 db at the rear of the RV.

How much of a job was the fan change?  Did you fdo it yourself? 

It has been suggested and I think correctly that it is the exhaust manifold. I will have a look today and see if I can see anything. 

 

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The only hard part of changing the fan was finding a way to get to it. After some real digging and thinking I was going to have to do major surgery, I found the hidden hatch cover. It was covered by carpet and in the closet, mostly. The closet doors had to be removed along with the bottom track. The bottom track was a pain and was reinstalled with screws in a place easy to get to. Monaco made beautiful tight fitting cabinetry. The sconce/valence above the closet doors was a tight fit getting out. There are hidden finishing nails so it was a bit intimidating taking things apart. That panel was trimmed 1/4 inch for future removals. It now only takes minutes to get the closet doors out and the carpet covered hatch off. I believe just three drywall screws hold it in place now. Not noticeable and much easier to remove. 

The hatch was incredibly well hidden with carpet. The carpet had not been sliced around the deck area.

We have the 40 SKQ so your layout may be simpler. I have pictures on the changeout if you are interested.

Getting the fan off was easy. Being prepared with a breaker bar and the right socket it took just a couple of minutes to remove the bolts. I just remembered that taking the fan belt off was not necessary. 

The fan blade was carefully lifted out from above. The new one dropped in and bolted on. One of the first of hundreds of modifications made. The new fan is one of the best mods. I did notice that in downhill driving that the less draggy fan required me to use the tranny in a lower gear or the brakes much more. The fan I believe reduced the hp needed by some 35 hp. An astonishinig amount of drag. Check out the specs. It has been nearly fifteen years so would need to verify. 

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17 hours ago, klcdenver said:

Yes it can. Take a good look at it and look for the leak if you have one. There are some temp band aid fixes. Some high heat exhaust heat tape wrap and some products like JB Weld. It could be just an exhaust gasket also that could be replaced in El Paso. Be sure and check around turbo also.

Did you check idler arm when it was hot? Metal expands when hot. If cold it might not drag as bad. Be sure and check alternator and A/C clutch to spin freely. Another thing that can make those noises is a u-joint on the drive shaft. Can you rev motor in park and duplicate the noise? 

Yes it will make the noise in park.

Just took a look at the exhaust manifold and it is leaking between the manifold and the engine

manifold leak.jpg

manifold leak 2.jpg

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UPDATE

It was #3 cylinder leaking, there was a small leak on 5 I think.  The manifold was out of spec so it was replaced.  The bolts in the turbo were seized and had to be drilled out.  Coincidently they were the only ones I didn't put penetrating oil on. Total was $3000.00 which hurts but on the road and not having time or tools to deal with seized bolts I will suck it up.  If I was at home with time and tools then I would have done it myself.

Everyone at Cummins El Paso was extremely friendly and kind.  They have a nice lounge and 3 RV Parking spots with power.  They bought us lunch the first day and I'm sure if we were hanging out in the lounge they would have the 2nd day too.  Very professional and went to great lengths to explain what was going on.

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7 hours ago, klcdenver said:

Glad you are rolling again. What did you use for penetrating oil? It worked well if all the manifold bolts came out with any breaking.

I had some Sea Foam Deep Creep and then got some PB Blaster after reading othe r comments.

Drove from El Paso to Tucson.  Mileage has improved compared to the going back to June.  Perhaps it is my imagination to help justify the cost but the bottom end seems better too.

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