RorySamuels Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 I am in the process of sealing my roof and replacing the bathroom skylight. I have attached a couple of photos. The skylight was broken when I bought the coach. To seal it temporarily I applied flex seal tape. In the pictures you can see that I have started to remove the tar tape. I know that I will have to drill out the rivets. Question 1 is there anything I need to do when drilling out the rivets to protect the coach? Question 2: Is there anything special I should do about filling the holes from the rivets other than putting skylight caulk over them? Question 3: Are there special screws/size I should be using other than the obvious weather resistant such as stainless steel etc.? The replacement came from EZtops world wide. There are no holes drilled in it. I am assuming that I would drill holes in the new skylight between where the holes are on the old sky light. My plan is to place Eternabond tape over the edges like Monaco did with the tar tape and then use Dicor on the edge of the tape. Finally, the old skylight looks like it is bent to match roof contour. Question 4: Do I have to accommodate the contour with the new skylight? Question 5: If I have to place a bend in the new skylight is there a procedure to follow? IMG_0308[1].HEIC IMG_0309[1].HEIC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug and Nicki Posted January 4 Share Posted January 4 (edited) Ugh! you are going to need to use solvent on that. I would try several different ones to see what will work best without damaging the roof. All of that needs to be removed to get to a clean roof. I never use Eternabond or any other tape product on the roof. It is nearly impossible to remove. I would use Dicor lap sealant around the new light. Are you sure it is riveted verses screwed? Edited January 4 by Doug and Nicki Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RorySamuels Posted January 4 Author Share Posted January 4 (edited) Unfortunately, it is riveted. Mineral spirits work well to remove the tar. The roof is aluminum. I also use a heat gun and putty knife. Hope to finally be traveling in the coach this spring and summer. Edited January 4 by RorySamuels add information 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Georgia Mike Posted January 4 Share Posted January 4 I know when I replaced my skylight on my Dynasty you couldn’t use Dicor to install it. It has chemicals in it that causes the skylight to crack prematurely. I had to use Surebond SB 140 to seal it. It is specifically made for skylights. I used stainless steel screws and 1 inch stainless washers to distribute the pressure so I wouldn’t crack the skylight when screwing them down then sealed the screw tops with SB140 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CAT Stephen Posted January 4 Share Posted January 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Pratten Posted January 4 Share Posted January 4 Trust EZ sent you a Lexan skylight which drills and cuts well vs Plexiglass which is prone to cracking. I’m a fan of Eternabond but not in this application. Recommend use of Surebond. Eternabond will “tent” over fastener heads resulting in small air pockets around fastener head circumference. Over time, these pockets can get punctured, which granted is low risk, but IMHO why go that route. I also use Surebond between the roof and skylight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RorySamuels Posted January 4 Author Share Posted January 4 (edited) Thank you for your replies. I have ordered the SB-140. I had seen that video that Cat Stephen attached and a few others. The videos didn't answer the questions I asked. None of the videos had a riveted skylight or one that was covered with tar tape. I was hoping to just remove screws and replace them with new ones into the original holes. Since I can't do that and was unable to find similar installations, I asked the questions, hoping someone in this group had done the repair and could tell me what they did. Also, so that I could confirm I was on the correct track. Georgia Mike, can you tell me what size screws you used? Were they self-drilling? Are the screws just fastening to the aluminum sheets of the roof? Edited January 4 by RorySamuels asking for additional information Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frankogrly Posted January 5 Share Posted January 5 I replaced mine a few years ago. Ordered new outer shell from Veurinks. Drilled out the rivet's, cleaned the area with a plastic putty knife and denatured alcohol. I do not use Eternabond cleaner as it will remove the paint. I should have ordered both the inside and outside shell as separating the old one was very difficult. I believe I resealed the two pieces with rope caulk and used rope caulk as a base to set the skylight on. Installed new rivets and used Eternabond tape to seal the installed skylight to roof. This was 5 or six years ago and no problems. Frank O 01 Endeavor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Georgia Mike Posted January 5 Share Posted January 5 23 hours ago, RorySamuels said: Georgia Mike, can you tell me what size screws you used? Were they self-drilling? Are the screws just fastening to the aluminum sheets of the roof? My roof is not aluminum it’s a fiberglass roof so I didn’t use self drilling. I used 1 1/4 #8 stainless screws with 1 inch stainless washers with the SB 140. The SB140 will work work with all kinds of materials including metal or aluminum just make sure you put plenty on so when you install your screws it squeezes out the sides all the way around the outside perimeter and then cover the screws liberally with SB 140. I’m sure you could also do what Frank did and use rivets and Eternabond and it would work ok but I prefer the SB 140. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dennis.mcdonaugh Posted January 5 Share Posted January 5 I’ve heard that Dicor will crack skylights, but never from someone who had it happen to them. I’ve been told by the fewpeople who’ve used it that they had no issues. I used it when I replaced mine a few years ago and have contemplated removing it, but decided it wasn’t worth the effort. I had two skylights custom made so I could use them as a double pane skylight. The inner was about 2” shorter than the outer. Even with two skylights, it’s not as dark as the original was. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RorySamuels Posted February 28 Author Share Posted February 28 I have attached a picture of the cleaned skylight. I have removed it only to find that the inner skylight is bonded to the outer and cracked. I have bought the SB-140 and 1" self-drilling/tapping screws. Just have to order the inner portion. Re-read all of your comments and realized that I should have known that the two portions were bonded together. IMG_0341.HEIC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96 EVO Posted February 28 Share Posted February 28 6 minutes ago, RorySamuels said: I have attached a picture of the cleaned skylight. I have removed it only to find that the inner skylight is bonded to the outer and cracked. I have bought the SB-140 and 1" self-drilling/tapping screws. Just have to order the inner portion. Re-read all of your comments and realized that I should have known that the two portions were bonded together. IMG_0341.HEIC 2.62 MB · 0 downloads Well, that's not 100% guaranteed! My inner and outer domes are two separate pieces! No idea what years they made the change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddie4ne Posted February 29 Share Posted February 29 Has anyone dealt with mold and rot on rear outer corner of skylight frame Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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