Gas Strut Replacements

[zmotorsports]

I noticed last fall during the LOF service that my coach's engine hatch was harder to open, therefore I knew I had at least one of the gas struts failing.  I ordered a couple of new Suspa gas struts as I have had the best luck with them lately on other compartment doors.  I changed the engine hatch with a cheaper pair from my local NAPA a few years back and they just simply didn't impress me at all.  I replaced a few compartment door struts with the Suspa ones several years ago and I can already tell a difference in longevity and quality.  

 

I'm not sure if this has been shared before but seeing as how some of these gas struts have high pressure ratings (100 lbs. +) I figured I would show how I go about replacing these to avoid damage to the coach's painted surfaces as well as how to avoid personal injury.  Maybe someone has already shared this method but if not, here is how I change these.

 

With the engine hatch struts being 150 lb. rated, I compress them in the hydraulic press, but any form of compressing the strut can be used.  With the hatch propped fully open, I measured the ball to ball distance and then compressed the strut to about an inch less than the measured distance as the strut will extend slightly as the wire becomes taught.

 

Before going to the press I clamped the cylinder end in the vise slightly to allow me to wrap some stainless steel wire around the end and tie it tightly.  Safety wire pliers work best for this as they twist uniformly and repeatably with each pull netting a nice tight wrap pulling the wire securely together.  Sorry, I forgot to take a picture of my safety wire pliers.

 

I then compressed the rod end into the cylinder about an inch further than my previously measured distance.  Once compressed I used a couple of small worm style hose clamps to secure the wire to the rod.  I clamped the first one as far as possible to the connector, then folded the wires over (180-degrees) and added the second hose clamp.  This locks the wire to the rod without damaging it.  Also, prior to this step I sprayed a bit of brake cleaner on a rag and wiped the end of the rod to avoid letting the clamp slip if there were any oil/grease on the rod.  Once the clamps are secured in place, slowly release the tension and the wire will pull taught and the rod will extend slightly.

 

Now it can easily and safely be pulled from the press and installed on the ball ends.  Once installed the clamps can be removed and the wire cut at the other end and it is complete.

 

 I will admit, I couldn't remember what wire size I used last time so I grabbed my "medium" wire that I use for safety tying fasteners which was .032".  It was not strong enough and broke as soon as I released the tension from the strut.  I grabbed the .041" wire and it held easily.

 

 

 

I hope that helps others to safely and easily replace their gas struts when necessary.

 

I'm not as young nor spry as I used to be and compressing these struts has gotten harder for me over the years, plus I don't heal as well as I used to, so I have tried to be a bit more cautious as I perform certain repairs.  😏

[Ivan K]

I just use a ratcheting tie down strap to compress struts to desired length, works for me too. I often leave some minor activities for a slow day on a trip, I get bored easily...

[zmotorsports]

28 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

I just use a ratcheting tie down strap to compress struts to desired length, works for me too. I often leave some minor activities for a slow day on a trip, I get bored easily...

 

I have found a ratchet strap works well if there is a bracket on the end to lock the strap to or on lighter duty compartment doors.  Unfortunately, on these 150 lb. rated hatch struts there was nothing but the ball receiver and I just didn't feel comfortable with a strap wrapped around the ends as they looked like they could easily slip off and put a dent in my forehead.  

[Frank McElroy]

I recall about a year after taking delivery that I had a strut go bad.  Monaco shipped me two new ones.  At the time what I did was to remove part of the hinge assembly so that the strut could be attached fully extended and then I used ratchet straps to pull the door into position to replace the part I removed.  Now, that was about 16 years ago so I don't exactly recall the part of the hinge assembly I removed but it worked without needing to compress the strut.

[zmotorsports]

5 minutes ago, Frank McElroy said:

I recall about a year after taking delivery that I had a strut go bad.  Monaco shipped me two new ones.  At the time what I did was to remove part of the hinge assembly so that the strut could be attached fully extended and then I used ratchet straps to pull the door into position to replace the part I removed.  Now, that was about 16 years ago so I don't exactly recall the part of the hinge assembly I removed but it worked without needing to compress the strut.

 

Frank, that works on some compartment doors that open upward and out of the way of the strut.  However, on pantographic style where the struts connects to the integral part of the hinge assembly through the middle of the framework, that doesn't work.  Especially on the engine hatch where the entire hinge assembly is welded together and the fiberglass hatch itself fastens to the pantographic hinge assembly. 

 

 

[Frank McElroy]

13 minutes ago, zmotorsports said:

 

Frank, that works on some compartment doors that open upward and out of the way of the strut.  However, on pantographic style where the struts connects to the integral part of the hinge assembly through the middle of the framework, that doesn't work.  Especially on the engine hatch where the entire hinge assembly is welded together and the fiberglass hatch itself fastens to the pantographic hinge assembly. 

 

 

My engine hatch assembly must be different than yours.  On mine I removed the bottom bolt on each side.  That allowed the door to tilt enough to attach the gas strut without compressing it.

[zmotorsports]

29 minutes ago, Frank McElroy said:

My engine hatch assembly must be different than yours.  On mine I removed the bottom bolt on each side.  That allowed the door to tilt enough to attach the gas strut without compressing it.

 

Frank, that bolt that you are pointing to is a pin that is spot welded into the vertical framework on mine.  I guess I could drill it out and replace it with a bolt but it's six of one half a dozen of another as to which would be easiest to install the strut.

 

These Monaco's really are snowflakes as no two are alike.  Not sure if that's a good thing or bad at times.  

[c210pa18]

I am working on replacing the engine hatch struts on my 2002 Signature the parts numbers I am finding in the parts in the parts list document all seem to be 26.35" long compressed down to 16.1"    Frank looking at the picture you posted above, it looks just like mine including the length of the strut relative to the other arms in the picture.  I removed one of mine just now and the length is 23" and compressed 13.25".  So the question is, do you know the specs on yours and part number?  It appears that they are not the ones I am finding in the parts listing or the ones that others have used.   Thanks for any help finding the correct replacements.

[c210pa18]

I noticed that the strut was painted over so was unable to read part numbers.  I carefully sanded down through the paint and got a little more info.  Then it dawned on me to check the storage compartment struts, they aren't painted over.  That way I got the brand of the struts on the coach.  It appears to be this strut linked here.  https://www.siraweb.com/prop-752991?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwwr6wBhBcEiwAfMEQs3HhOEBi2DMeCIKvIGhJ7mi2EYa2QFInmEKD8lZX4XnI9FQAzj1trhoCas4QAvD_BwE    The dimensions seem to match.   Can anybody confirm this would be correct?

[Frank McElroy]

This is the part Monaco sent me it's a 157 Lb strut.  I'll check the part number actually on the unpainted strut.

[Frank McElroy]

Here is a picture of the new strut part number on the coach.  It matches the invoice part number except the force is shown in newtons.  (157 Lb = 698 N) So, basically 700 N.

[c210pa18]

Thank you Frank that is helpful information.