Ktmarquardt Posted March 16 Share Posted March 16 I have an 07 Dynasty that has a few issues. Like the title states the water pump doesn't power on with any of the switches including the basement switch, the aqua hot diesel function is stuck on constant, none of the buttons for it work either. Also the lights above the passenger couch constantly go off to dim to bright with no button function. I've poked around at fuses and the back cabinet electronics and am suspecting the main intellitec module is faulty? Any input appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank McElroy Posted March 16 Share Posted March 16 Reboot the Intellitec multiplex system by either cycling the battery cutoff switch or disconnecting the house batteries. Also, reset the aquahot system at the control board in the aquahot bay. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ktmarquardt Posted March 16 Author Share Posted March 16 Preformed both of those with no changes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DBRV.0 Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 (edited) Based on experiences, when things go 'intermittent' or 'multiple issues/items', I try to double-check grounding. With age, it is common that corrosion may alter conduction. One way to test is to use a voltmeter to test between a good frame ground point and the ground point on the affected device. Testing should show little to no ohms resistance, and no voltage between those two points - when trying to use the device. I would first test battery terminal to frame. Battery terminal or cable-to-frame corrosion is very common. On my unit, I seem to recall 3 to 5 cables bolted to the frame around the engine area, therefore each is a ground. There are more ground wires up front, especially with the FRB (Front Run Box) under the driver. If it is hard to connect between the two points, take a spare wire and make a positive frame (or battery negative) connection, and run that wire to where you want to test. [edit:] For the sake of reliability, for all frame connection points, I would use a good corrosion penetrant before removing the nuts if they are corroded, then use a wire brush (manual or powered wire brush) to polish both the cable and frame point, then use electrical corrosion inhibitor before re-attaching. Edited March 19 by DBRV.0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 You need to focus on ONE issue at a time. Pump Switches. When you Turn ON the pump from any of the switches….does all the PUMP ON light switches glow or stay on? OK…. Now….go directly to the Pump. Use your VOM. Is there power on the connector…. Check the two leads. If NO JUICE….then ground out the Meter Probe and check for 12 VDC on each lead. That will eliminate the GROUND issue. OK…if there is NO Voltage on either wire of the pin, then look at the drawings. There is a BOSCH 12 VDC relay that the Intellitec Module powers… Look at your legend or diagram in the Intellitec CPU room. There is a Module for the pump circuit on one. Often times, the fuse is bad there. That WAS an issue that plagued the Camelots….as Monaco didn’t use a relay. Yours is an early one….so, verify that you have power coming out of the module… If POWER OUT….relay downstream is bad. That Relay feeds the PUMP… Work on that…. As far as the dimming goes….you need to find the module that powers that circuit. ODDS ARE….there is an IDENTICAL Module that controls other circuits. YOU CAN SWAP THEM. The only thing you have to do is photograph each of the Module’s DIP switches. You reprogram (change the dip switches). IF the problem follows the Module….that is the issue. We have folks that can help you offline… NOW, if the problem persists, then you have a “tactile” as in the switch is NOT opening….when you push it ONCE….it sends a coded signal….but if you want the lights to dim you hold it down….if it is defective and the switch is NOT sending a single pulse….and stays ON…then a switch. We have folks that can fix or such… Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amphi_sc Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 When I had flakey things happening with my house lights & multiplex system I chased an introduced noise theory for quite a while. Unplugged each G4 (two pin) light bulb in each socket & reinserted to make sure they had a good connection. Killed all power & batteries to the coach, Loosened and tightened each ground bar connection in the rear closet as well as the ones I could in the upper left corner of the engine bay. Replugged each switch panel, cycled all the connections on the cpu and subsequent boards, etc... see thread: Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ktmarquardt Posted April 8 Author Share Posted April 8 On 3/19/2024 at 8:01 PM, Tom Cherry said: You need to focus on ONE issue at a time. Pump Switches. When you Turn ON the pump from any of the switches….does all the PUMP ON light switches glow or stay on? OK…. Now….go directly to the Pump. Use your VOM. Is there power on the connector…. Check the two leads. If NO JUICE….then ground out the Meter Probe and check for 12 VDC on each lead. That will eliminate the GROUND issue. OK…if there is NO Voltage on either wire of the pin, then look at the drawings. There is a BOSCH 12 VDC relay that the Intellitec Module powers… Look at your legend or diagram in the Intellitec CPU room. There is a Module for the pump circuit on one. Often times, the fuse is bad there. That WAS an issue that plagued the Camelots….as Monaco didn’t use a relay. Yours is an early one….so, verify that you have power coming out of the module… If POWER OUT….relay downstream is bad. That Relay feeds the PUMP… Work on that…. As far as the dimming goes….you need to find the module that powers that circuit. ODDS ARE….there is an IDENTICAL Module that controls other circuits. YOU CAN SWAP THEM. The only thing you have to do is photograph each of the Module’s DIP switches. You reprogram (change the dip switches). IF the problem follows the Module….that is the issue. We have folks that can help you offline… NOW, if the problem persists, then you have a “tactile” as in the switch is NOT opening….when you push it ONCE….it sends a coded signal….but if you want the lights to dim you hold it down….if it is defective and the switch is NOT sending a single pulse….and stays ON…then a switch. We have folks that can fix or such… Finally got the time to check some of the things you mentioned. First with the water pump, push the button and no light comes on at the switch. You can watch the led light up on the module for a second but its a brief on/off. The led for the "diesel aq hot" is on according to the module without any buttons being pushed or such. I do have a constant 8v coming from the "pmc cpu" on the blue/yellow loop wires(I'm fresh at these multiplex systems but am well versed in auto electronics and the constant 8v on a "loop" circuit doesnt seem right to me). The lights that are causing a fuss act like the button is constantly held down on them and the led in the switch is also lighted suggesting that i have a switch fault? Thanks for your help and future guidance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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