Jump to content

Sliding Door Adjustments

Recommended Posts

I have a 2" gap at the top of the two doors between the bedroom and bathroom on my 2002 Cayman. I can't seem to figure out how to adjust the doors without taking the slide covers off.  It looks like it should be an easy adjustment if I could get to it.  I hate to take the wooden covers off because I may break them which I don't want to do.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to adjust the rollers?   Maybe there is a stop in the center I could remove so I could slide the door further to the right to get to the other roller. I couldn't see one. Thanks,  Jim

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On my 2004 Cayman I had to remove the trim to adjust the door, and the top rail screws had pulled out somewhat so they need to be tightened as well. If I remember correctly did it from the bedroom side. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had the sliding door fall off the end of the track because it was allowed to run too far into the pocket. I removed the trim covering the track (without damaging it), got the rollers back on track, and screwed a two-inch block into the wall at the end of travel to keep the door from going past flush. All has been well since. I don't know if this helps, but hope so.

Bob Dinsmore, 2000 Diplomat



Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, I've got an update forr my doors not aligning. It turns out the rail has come loose at the top. After checking what held it in place, i found abut 5 nails were holding it from the roof to the wood the rail is mounted on.  In the pics you can see how it's detached from the ceiling . No way am I going to open the roof to get to this. 

I don't want to try to hammer the wooden rail up because I might push the nails into the roof outside. I was thinking of cutting them off to get a smooth fit.

 Also, the rail is screwed to the wood and don't go through the wood and attach to the ceiling anywhere.

Possible solutions?

I thought I might get a good glue and glue it in place. Any suggestions on type of glue?

Does anyone know if I can screw into the ceiling?   If so, how deep?   What would I be screwing into, wood, aluminum?

How long of a screw should I use without going thru the roof?

Another solution possibly:

Looking at the ceiling ridge joint cover, does anyone know how those come off?    I don't want to try to remove it and damage it  only to find out they don't come off.  In the picture the whiter 2" piece that joins the two darker colored panels it the ridge or joint cover I'm talking about.  See other pics.

Any help would be appreciated. Jim20200808_090120.thumb.jpg.c2e497e393fff5f8f789e4aaec72d70f.jpg




Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jim  on mine I also have trim hiding the gap from the ceiling to the doors it's screwed to the ceiling and is easy to remove . The height adjustments is made by the nuts on the threaded hanger    rod . To remove the door from the carriage slide the lock plate (usually plastic ) around it pivots out of the way to release the rod from the door plate.  The stop on mine is just a lag bolt up in the track. You can see the almost flush mounting screws for the track the the carriage can clear then the bigger lag bolts that the carriage can't.

Roy  Mercier  2003 Dynasty

Sorry Jim I had your original on my computer  and just got around to respond  should have checked for updates before I spoke.  As far as your new found problem  after you remove the doors

and get the track in your hands you might be able to see better what's going on . One thing comes to mind and that's enlarging the hole to go up 2 or 3 sizes in the mounting screws and add some glue to the threads.

Roy Mercier  2003 Dynasty  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I forgot to show the finished product on the repair. What I ended up doing was removing the lattis trim, I spot glued 3 spots above the rail to the ceiling. Then, I braced the rail up against the ceiling. I found two 1/2 inch wood screws and screwed them under the rail into the wall. I didn't want to use anything longer for fear of going through the side of the MH. As you can see, it holds nicely and it's behind the door so you can't see the screws. After the glue set, I tried pulling on the slide downward to see if it would move and it is solid. The door catches snap together and work now too.  Had to make a little minor adjustments to the rail-wheels and now another job done.


  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Create New...