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Here's what the Monacoers have been talking about:
Index
Discussions
Tom Cherry
31 minutes ago, Chargerman said:Thanks once again Tom. I would have installed a Watts Link years ago but Mike Hugh’s told me there wasn’t one available for my Exec.
Sorry for NOT picking UP that you have an Exec. Van Williams custom made one for Pratt's 05 Exec. He said it DID make some difference...not overall, it was not NEAR as dramatic as adding one to my Camelot.
Your TruCenter will do fine. There is less "wander" in a Tag and less wander in the Dynasty and up due to the body construction.
SO...drive on. Just don't expect that you can adjust out a mega cross wind. BUT, from a driver fatigue standpoint...which is now more of a concern that "sports car handling", the TruCenter will improve it...
END OF SAGA....LOL...
98Windsor32ft
Thanks, Tom, Great info.. I have 50 yr behind me of electronic test/integration experience. I suspect you are correct, just need to trace wires back.
The headlights are on if the battery disconnect is on. Interesting thing, the hi/lo beam switch only works if the headlight switch is on. I will trace the wires and let you know the outcome.
Tom Cherry
11 minutes ago, 98Windsor32ft said:Thanks, Tom, Great info.. I have 50 yr behind me of electronic test/integration experience. I suspect you are correct, just need to trace wires back.
The headlights are on if the battery disconnect is on. Interesting thing, the hi/lo beam switch only works if the headlight switch is on. I will trace the wires and let you know the outcome.
Comment….and you have more bench time that I do…but I have spent a LOT of time looking at the prints and making or trying to make sense of the circuits.
The output of that switch goes to the headlight relay. Now THAT turns on the relay or energizes the coil, the. The power from the main headlight fuse goes to the HI/LOW siwtch.
There is a SECOND wire that also comes to the “leftside”. I don’t know where it starts….but my GUT says….it would be the “output” or power from a DRL relay. So, start the engine….a DRL relay closes. There is dual power to the Headlight relay coil. One is the headlight switch….but TIED to it….a another feed or signal from the DRL circuit.
FIRST….easy way….
Pull the positive coil terminal off the Headlight relay. OK… snip one wire. My BET…. Engine off….chassis battery ON….headlight switch ON…. YOU GOT Power coming in…from both sides. NOW turn OFF the Headlight switch. One side SHOULD (MUST) DROP OUT. Now you know which is the headlight switch. Still got power….unplug the connector to the Headlight switch. If that kills it…there is a defect in the switch….but IF one side has ZERO VDC… then you know WHICH is the headlight switch. Then connect that wire back to the relay. NOW it should work as designed….assuming the Headlight Relay ain’t the issue. What is powerimg the OTHER wire….??? No idea. Insulate and forget about it…
NOW…look at the headlight switch. It is a SPDT switch…no center off. One side will always be LOW….until you switch to HIGH….
I know you’ll solve it a bit of noodling and a print….
MyronTruex
It has been such an honor to know you for a few years now. I always looked forward to your presence at the Monaco gathering.
I hope you enjoy your retirement. Unfortunatley you will never get a day off now.
I thank you, and my big beautiful home on wheels thanks you for helping me keep her in pristine shape.
The thought occurs to me though. Just how many RV spaces are there on that farm? Just kidding.
pulsarjab
There is a huge difference in roll pin quality. I bought the black ones from Fastenal.
Chargerman
I’m certainly not unhappy with how my coach drives/handles overall. The Trucenter has been on my coach since I bought it 10 years ago but never dug into its workings. Think it was about time I did 😳🙄.
jacwjames
11 hours ago, windsorbill06 said:Thank you Jim, unfortunately I don't have that system. Looks like the tracks are similar, but the motor and switch board is completely different.
No doubt but I suspect that there may be similarities on how to adjust the limits for amperage/force.
On my front slide I can hold my IN/OUT button in and let the controller do it's thing.
The rear bedroom slide has a clutch mechanism, the drive gear starts to jump when you reach the limits.
Steven P
Chris, congrats! Well deserved after all the hard work and dedication! I appreciate all you've taught me and the shiny guardian plates on my slide outs along w the Stone Vos slidetoppers and one of the elusive Vector tanks. Sounds like you'll have plenty of room for 50A and sewer for 30 or so of your closest friends at your new place. Maybe @Scotty Hutto will even share scallops while watching Mississippi State w you. 😊 I hope we can see more of you.
Steven
jacwjames
I had never had the opportunity to me Chris but have read everyone of his posts, the quality and amount of information he passed on is noteworthy. When Chris posted something I read it.
So I hope you have many years of retirement and enjoy your ranch, you deserve it.
dandick66
Chris,
Congratulations on your well deserved, overdue retirement. I enjoyed your seminars at the gatherings and learned a lot from you. I suspect Dave will bestow emeritus status to you so you can attend future gatherings.
Best wishes, fair winds, and following seas. I know you were a Marine, so I had to get the Navy gig in there!
Dan
saflyer
On 5/12/2024 at 12:38 PM, Les Hurdle said:Just got back from a Long trip and of-course my new windshield is covered in bugs. By the time I got to them they were well and truly stuck on.
Has anyone seen, does anyone make a deflector which can be attached to the front of the cap below the windshield which would deflect wind upwards and hopefully away from the windshield pushing bugs over the top?
Les
Won’t keep the bugs off but 4/0 steel wool removes dried bugs without scratching the glass.
jacwjames
Just a question
Do you have a small compressor that keeps the coach level while parked. If so does it have any type of air water separator or way to condition the air. Does it have a way to drain water??
I think that the front main tank has a wet and dry side that has a check valve internally. Not sure how a small compressor ties into the air system.
saflyer
Congrats Chris. Now you have time for the flying lessons.
Steven Schoepke
Just had DaBus serviced and I had a similar problem. Right rear tag had fitting that was loss. Tighten the fitting ready to roll.
dandick66
14 hours ago, jacwjames said:So I finally got a chance to take the rig out for a shake down drive prior to my wife leaving next week for a ~2 month trip. Wanted to check everything and all seems to be working fine.
I decided to try out the TSD card, didn't need much fuel but wanted to make sure it worked. Pretty straight forward as far as using the card and filling the rig.
I got the transaction details, I only pumped 15 gallons, advertised price was $3.429, discount price was $3.081 but that didn't include the fees. So the charge was $47.44 after the transactions fee $0.65, there was also a 10% Program Fee against the Discount $5.23 or $0.53.
So my final price was $3.16/gallon.
The nearest Sam's Club has a posted price of $3.44, so with my 5% rebate on fuel the price would be $3.26.
So Open Roads is a little cheaper but the real savings may be convenience of getting on/off the interstate a little easier, easier access and faster filling.
Still looking at the Mudflap program also, I have it set up on my phone, have to get it set up on my wife's phone, it would be good to have other options.
Jim,
I think you hit the nail on the head - the convenience of access, faster filling, and not having to go inside (at least once, normally twice). I always take a picture of the pump when I’m done filling. That way I can verify my statement from TSD is accurate - it always has been. I just added the TSD card to the Loves and TA app, so we’ll see how that works. Also, if you would have bought more fuel, you would have seen more of a per gallon savings.
Tom Cherry
16 hours ago, windsorbill06 said:I've got 4 electric slides. The issue I'm having in on only 1, the front curb side slide out. It's a lippert slide out. Gears. No cables. Slide goes in and out smoothly, square and no jerking or bouncing. There is no floor rot or damage.
The problem I have is when the slide reaches it's limit (either retracted or extended), the motor will keep running and torque off the sheer bolt. This is the original motor.
Can someone explain how the motor is to know that the slide has reached it's limit ? I'm not aware of any limit switches. Maybe motor senses a amp jump? Maybe slide out circuit board in rear electrical compartment is acting up?
Without doing a LOT of searching and digging…now on my iPad. You have a custom board for the slides….
Go to the link below…..then skim over the comments about Hydraulic….they were in error. There is a SECOND link further down. Read BOTH carefully.
The OLD Windsor or the coveted series DIED, 2004 (or maybe mid 2005) was the last. BUT Monaco KEPT the badge name alive. Your 2006 is the same, except for the pillow thrower’s “interior” and the paint scheme….as the Scepter and Camelot…. This has been confirmed from the prints . SO NOW….here is the rest of the story.
I worked with the lady and she disappeared. BUT all that research and talking to Lippert and others that had worked or had problems…finally made sense.
There is a “custom proprietary” control board for all the slides. It controls the motor by reversing and such. It also, IIRC, has the circuits to limit current and controls and monitors the amperage. Thus, if you have an issue on one slide in one direction….a BOARD issue. These boards were not very robust. They were also prone to water damage due to location. NOW…these are generalities.
BUT….they are NO LONGER available and I do NOT believe that anyone works on them or repairs them. I am also am fuzzy on who made them. We have so many slide boards and there were companies that made them that closed. KIP or similar may be one.
MOST of the time….creeping or “when damp”….a slide will move….that was the case here. Other times….DEAD.
Based on a lot of conversations with Frank and reading….the fix is this. Lippert (memory) makes a single slide control board. It does the same thing….reversing and current monitoring as the multislide board. A GOOD tech, that can pin out the connectors or follow the circuit and understand the input (switches) and outputs (motor) has…maybe or should be able to remove one slide from that board. Then install a separate controller for that slide. From the inside….the switches are fhe same….but at the control location….there will be a separate module or controller….. Thus….if one fails….remove and reinstall a new controller (maybe $175 - $250 for the part). THEN….when or if a second fails…..bite the bullet if you are paying a tech and do BOTH and junk or remove the old system.
SOMEWHERE….I read….one of the replacement controllers MAY actually use the same connectors….easy…but if not….you buy the harnesses for the new controller and rewire. That’s my recollection….but, the whole tale of tears, is in BOTH of the links….
That’s my memory…so you have to verify the controller….and the prints are in the files. Can NOT recall if there was a board for ALL 3 or if each MH, depending on how many slides had a one or two or three slide configuration….
Scotty Hutto
I’ve been doing the Love’s app and the TA app with TSD for about a year now. Easy! And I like the email receipts.
cbr046
It should go without saying that if you're under the coach, and especially if you're dinking with air lines, you should have the coach on ramps or safety jacks under it. If a fitting were to break it would mean a sudden loss of air bag.
Even using the leveling jacks is playing squish roulette.
- bob
Dr4Film
The HWH Aux Air leveling Compressor has a small air dryer built into the system. However, I think the 2007 Dynasty uses the Valid Air Leveling System which I have no idea whether it came with an air dryer or not.
dennis.mcdonaugh
I know, but thanks for the reminder. I have jack stands, but they are too short to reach the frame when the coach is up on the 2X ramps I use to get a little extra height. I made wooden blocks out of stacked 2X12s, cut to 1' long, that are just shorter than the retracted hydraulic jack pads. I often dump the air bags so the coach is sitting on these blocks. There's plenty of room to work under the without worrying about it falling on me.
Indydyne
On a semi related note, I was breaking the pin in my HWH bedroom slide that does not have a current sense limit to my knowledge. I replaced the 3/16 pin with a grade 8 10/24 by 1.75 inch bolt and nut. All is good now. Maybe that could be an option for your lippert slide as well.
jacwjames
38 minutes ago, Scotty Hutto said:I’ve been doing the Love’s app and the TA app with TSD for about a year now. Easy! And I like the email receipts.
There was a Love's right across the road from the Speedway I filled up at, the advertized price on the billboard was ~$0.30 higher then the Speedway but when I looked at the app the there was a ~$0.04/gal difference.
Amazing how much difference in pricing. In the past that is what always irked me, and by picking and choosing where I filled up could save $$ off the advertise prices of the larger truck stops. That is why I was hesitant about setting up an account.
But money is money, and with the convenience of larger pull through's and faster pumps I, you might say, am hooked.
jbb5716
Chris & Ingrid
Congratulations on your retirement. Good to know you have a retirement plan to do something you enjoy.
You two are special people to me and I will always remember your hospitality while parked in your driveway for service work.
God bless you and Ingrid.
John
Dr4Film
My experience with the Blue-Ox Tru-Center was way less than pleasing due to the money (thousands of $) and time I had to throw at it to keep it working. I finally had Josam's remove it, then bench fixed it so it was working once again and sold it to another member for $200.
The initial cost was about $800 then another $200 for installation. It worked for a couple of years then stopped working. I had to pay a shop to get it working again. Then less than one year it stopped working again. Our travels took us close to the home shop in Nebraska so we stopped there to have it looked at. Well, another $600 later for a new piston and it was working once again. They also drilled holes in the solenoid box to alleviate any moisture build up which could cause the solenoid to freeze up. Then some time later it stopped working once again.
That's when I finally decided that I no longer needed or wanted it any longer. I had thrown way too much money and time into trying to keep it working. It was more of a boat anchor than a useful tool.
I decided that if at sometime in the future where I wanted another type of steering system, the only one i would invest in would be the Safe-T-Plus with the Henderson SuperSteer Trimming unit.
Joint Venture
I replaced my amber one because the minimal amount of light the OEM one produced was terrible. I now have this one from Amazon.
Rust inside airbags
John C
1 hour ago, jacwjames said:Just a question
Do you have a small compressor that keeps the coach level while parked. If so does it have any type of air water separator or way to condition the air. Does it have a way to drain water??
I think that the front main tank has a wet and dry side that has a check valve internally. Not sure how a small compressor ties into the air system.
It has been parked at my house for the last 4 months since I bought in AZ, there is a the auxiliary tank in the back on P.S side, no sure if it is also responsible for the front, the fuse was bad when I checked, after I replaced the fuse it only ran a few times. but not very long, I was going to change airbags & rebuild 6 pack first , so this was put on the back burner.
48 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:The HWH Aux Air leveling Compressor has a small air dryer built into the system. However, I think the 2007 Dynasty uses the Valid Air Leveling System which I have no idea whether it came with an air dryer or not.
When I rebuild 6 packs and 4 pack, I noticed there were quite bit rust inside it too. but not as many as the two airbags. I was wondering where there are coming from at that time.
Looks like the rust is definitely in the system, no sure why the other 6 airbags don't have any rust in it?
TSD Fuel Card
Venturer
It's no secret that the big truck stops can have higher pump prices than the smaller stations. However, in 4+ years I have been using the Open Roads/TSD card, I have never seen prices below what my final price was. My son stops at Maverick stations, and they are very often close to my discounted prices at the big TA's, Loves, and others. As already mentioned, the convenience of pulling in, fueling up, and parking for lunch without going inside is a bonus beyond the savings.
mello1
12 hours ago, John C said:@zmotorsports Hi,Mike,
I followed your post almost religiously and it helped me a lot to change my 10 airbags.
I made just one change as following:
I bought one pair of 24 ton jack stands (rear) and one pair of 12 ton jack (for the front), but I could not find jack stand that are long enough to directly in contact with chassis, I can stack up jack st and 10 pieces of 2x10 but I don't feel very safe, so here is what I did, for the front I cut a pair of 6x6 as a jack stands, that turned out to be very strong, on the driver side, there is no space on the chassis that I can put 6x6 there, so I cut above 2 inches from the 6x6 , make it 4x6 on the top, on the bottom it is still 6x6.
for the rear, I use 4x8 because the limited space.
I am doing it very slow, and I am made a decision to change the 10 shocks. now it is the 4th day, the coach is on the 4x8 and 6x6, looks very solid.
Thank you so much your post, without it I won't even know where to start!
1 minute ago, mello1 said:
John, I think you need to rethink your approach to this project. Your desire to support your coach from the highpoints of your frame along with the locations shown in the photos is a death wish. Truly an accident waiting to happen.
waterskier_1
I just replaced both my Group 31 batteries this past winter. The best price I found was Batteries Plus. Looking at my records, the price almost doubled from the price I paid 5 years ago, for the same batteries also from Batteries Plus - the best price I could find at that time also.
-Rick N.
cbr046
Everybody has a "deal". I wonder how many trucks pay full price at the big truck stops . . .
Keeps me awake at night.
- bob
waterskier_1
Did you see Tom Cherry's post on the check valve being the problem? I have had many similar problems which were the check valve. You can do a "quick & dirty" check by simply tripping the TPV (also called the T&P Valve - the Temperature and Pressure Valve) and noting if the water flow from the water heater is normal, or reduced. Be careful, that will be very hot water shooting out if the heater has been on.
-Rick N.
dl_racing427
Congratulations Chris,
You've been an invaluable asset to this forum, and to the RV industry for many years.
I've learned so much from your posts, and I wish you and your family the very best in retirement.
I'm sure Ryan and your talented staff will continue the level of service and great reputation that you earned with TalinRV.
God Bless, and enjoy your time with family and friends. 🙏🙏🙏
Venturer
34 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:My experience with the Blue-Ox Tru-Center was way less than pleasing due to the money (thousands of $) and time I had to throw at it to keep it working. I finally had Josam's remove it, then bench fixed it so it was working once again and sold it to another member for $200.
The initial cost was about $800 then another $200 for installation. It worked for a couple of years then stopped working. I had to pay a shop to get it working again. Then less than one year it stopped working again. Our travels took us close to the home shop in Nebraska so we stopped there to have it looked at. Well, another $600 later for a new piston and it was working once again. They also drilled holes in the solenoid box to alleviate any moisture build up which could cause the solenoid to freeze up. Then some time later it stopped working once again.
That's when I finally decided that I no longer needed or wanted it any longer. I had thrown way too much money and time into trying to keep it working. It was more of a boat anchor than a useful tool.
I decided that if at sometime in the future where I wanted another type of steering system, the only one i would invest in would be the Safe-T-Plus with the Henderson SuperSteer Trimming unit.
I think I would have done the same as you if mine had worked the same. My first one was on our 03 Tiffin and it worked flawlessly for several years till a bracket broke. After the brake, one end dropped to the road and ruined it. This current one cost me $129 shipping. I installed the electrical and paid a shop $50 to install the cylinder. Less than $200 invested. So far, it's working as designed. The coach was pretty stable before the installation. The TC just firmed up the directional control. Time will tell if this one will be like my first one. 🤞
Tom Cherry
1 hour ago, Indydyne said:On a semi related note, I was breaking the pin in my HWH bedroom slide that does not have a current sense limit to my knowledge. I replaced the 3/16 pin with a grade 8 10/24 by 1.75 inch bolt and nut. All is good now. Maybe that could be an option for your lippert slide as well.
Others have done such and when the Grade 8 bolt didn’t shear…..painful and expensive. The usual advice, plus the experience and wisdom of the group….from at least 2009 to now…and that had a LOT of owners with your system.
CURIOSITY STEPPED IN….it took some doing…..but here goes….
First…find the data for the roll pins…but the test method description baffled me. Then I found or tried or found similar data for #10mdiameter grade 2 and grade 5 and grade 8 bolt. The graded 2 is a low carbon steel. The grade 5 is a higher carbon steel, but hardened and then tempered or stress relieved. Likewise the grade 8 is a higher grade….heat treated as well.
Folks that jumped to all the way to grade 8 had issues. The numbers may be here if you search…but the advice from many owners….many of which were graduate mechanical engineers….take it carefully. Go up one step above the OEM Pin Shear Specs…..and see, and IIRC, it did….IF that works…
OK….being, one time, the chief engineer for a fastener company…..i finally, at least to my brain and engineering background, figured it out…
A Roll Pin is tested on a Double fixture set up and a bolt or fastener is tested on a single. See the picture….
NOW..you look up the specs….
3/16 is the typical way a shear or roll pin is categorized….. while a bolt is different. So…3/16 = 0.1875. A #10 bolt is 0.190….DRIVE ON….virtually the same.
NOW the data… in POUNDS…
Garden Variety 3/16” pin…. 2,400….the HWH recommended
Higher grade 3/16 SS ……….3,150 or more that 30% MORE
Grade 5 #10 bolt……………….4,252…..HOLD ON….the chart says….. 2,126.
YOU HAVE TO DOUBLE the SINGLE value….per all the research and what I read….so rarely is a BOLT tested like a shear or roll pin….
Grade 8 #10 bolt……………. 5,160 Or 2 X 2,580
Grade 2 #10 bolt……….. 2,550. The RULE OF THUMB….an unhardened low carbon bolt has about 60% of the same size grade 5….or it would be the same as the garden variety roll pin.
So…no wonder the Grade 8 doesn’t break. It is TWICE as strong. But, the “folks in the field” say…it will BEND before it breaks…and when it does….it is then press fitted into place and is hard to get out….often takes disassembly and you have to remove the shaft or the entire mechanism and figure out how, in a hydraulic press, drive it out.
My recommendation would be to find the SS pin made for the hole….and try that….
NOW….we have a great number of engineers here and some with extensive backgrounds and testing experience. One of our founders was a Mechanical Engineer - Aerospace…..the elite breed of ME’s. He worked designing all sorts of things…..like the propulsion systems in torpedoes. He cautioned about using a grade 8 Bolt…but NEVER added the background research. If I am wrong…..then someone with more materials knowledge and testing and such should correct me. I was in charge of QC and did most of the exotic testing….or the ones required for special fasteners….and I learned a lot….
That’s my take on it…based on the published data and the difference in the test setup and the logic, generally accepted, that a bolt in s double set up will test TWICE as strong….
TSD Fuel Card
Scotty Hutto
I actually asked my BIL about this. He runs a fleet of 14 large wreckers, lowboys, bus haulers, etc. He said virtually all truckers have discounts at the major truck stops. Even independents use a service like TSD.
He said the exceptions would be local devilery trucks like concrete and dump trucks. Also *some* farmers who don’t use their trucks a lot.
In his experience, almost nobody pays full price at the pump, (except maybe unsuspecting RV’ers… 🤪)
There is also “strategy” in this on the part of the super pumpers. They really don’t want “casual” business coming through the truck lanes. They want customers who buy a lot of fuel and get out of the way (to park and rest, or go inside and buy).
John C
29 minutes ago, Paul J A said:Bet the desiccant filter was never changed.
Bet a lot of things were never changed! I am surprised the original airbags last so long!
John C
42 minutes ago, mello1 said:
John, I think you need to rethink your approach to this project. Your desire to support your coach from the highpoints of your frame along with the locations shown in the photos is a death wish. Truly an accident waiting to happen.
Why? it is directly support the chassis as Mike talked about on his post. Those chassis beams are almost 10 inches thick and very strong.
Also I have two 12 ton jacks right under the front axles and two 24 ton jacks right under the driver axles just in case.
Tom Cherry
38 minutes ago, waterskier_1 said:I just replaced both my Group 31 batteries this past winter. The best price I found was Batteries Plus. Looking at my records, the price almost doubled from the price I paid 5 years ago, for the same batteries also from Batteries Plus - the best price I could find at that time also.
-Rick N.
Looked mine up....
June 2015. Interstate - Distributor price...from Distributor... MHD-950 $240 for PAIR NET after old battery trade in. Tax included.
October 2021. Interstate...same Distributor....talked to a guy on the phone on the service/sales desk and sort of conned him into a discount. $257 - Pair. GROSS with taxes and no Core Deduct...
Wife picked up and the guy ringing up the ticket (sticky note with my name and price) said... OMG... He really gave your husband a discount. I think that is what we pay for them...laughed and then honored the price...
HOWEVER, then we went back and got $20, so the NET price was $237 for TWO.
I KNOW they are more now... They are now charging, no discount, the MSRP, I THINK. $190 as I quoted a few days ago. OUT THE DOOR...with cores turned in and taxes... $405....or 71% MORE. YEE DOUBLE OUCH...
rpblush
Well, Marine, your retirement is well deserved. You have been a terrific RV maintenance professional to so many of us over the years. And it's always been a joy just to bump into you on occasion and wonder where you placed the next USMC sticker on my motorhome or toad! Best of luck, Chris, as you step into this next phase of your life!
Army Guy Ray
windsorbill06
My pins are 1/4". I have a supply of cheap sheer pins from Amazon purchased years ago--no idea what they are rated as. I did get a (as Tom calls it), garden variety 1/4" 20 bolts from Lowes. I was careful to get the bolt so the threads are not being used for the sheer strength inside the square tubing.
Had one of those bolts sheer off too. Still doing some testing and trying to isolate when the sheering takes place. I was told by an mobile mechanic I happen to run into in the HD parking lot, my slide motor acts like a car window motor. When the amps jump from the window being closed, it triggers the motor to stop. I'm starting to think this information is wrong when applied to this slide out motor. More testing required.
For what it's worth, Here's my slide controller board in the rear electric compartment. Without unplugging everything, I don't see any part number.
31C battery
waterskier_1
You got me curious, so I just looked mine up also. June 2019 I paid $282.51 - $58.45 = $224.06 for two Group 31 batteries.
In February 2024 I paid $384.77 -$58.69 = $326.08 for the exact same batteries, but I did purchase the second set in Phoenix, with a slightly higher sales tax.
In the last 2 - 3 years batteries (as with almost everything) have gone way up - 45% in this case. But, they were still the cheapest Group 31 batteries I could find at the time - including Sam's Club and Costco. Note that I'm west of the Mississippi, and have been told that battery products are different, so my experience may be different from those on the east side.
-Rick N.
96 EVO
Is it possible that self resetting breaker is supposed to trip before the sheer pin breaks?
John C
I am in the middle of replacing all my shocks, just noticed the old shock doesn't have the steel piece inside the top bolt hole but the now one does.
The is no way for me to push the old bolt inside new shock top hole without removing the steel piece.
So I have two options
1. Remove the steel piece and use the old bolt and nut
2. Leave the steel piece in place, buy a new set of the bolts to fit the hole on the new shock.
What will you do?
Thank you
Support bracket under the driver side.
Vince Toscano
Hi,
Thanks in advance for any help!!
I have a 2003 Beaver Marquis. There is a bracket that rides under the driver side slide that has broken off from wet bay. I'm not sure how it was attached. If any one could send a picture that would be super helpful
thank you
Vince Toscano
klcdenver
You have to stay with diameter bolt that fits snug to the hole in your mounting brackets. You should also have a steel bushing inside the rubber on the shock.
John C
On 5/12/2024 at 1:50 PM, wamcneil said:“Lay two aluminum struct channel in parallel (10' or 20' depends on location) and with glue the channels to the roof with 3M tape (that will be much stronger than just glue the bracket), I know I will use much much more 3M tape this way and I am willing to pay for the extra tape.”
With the long sections of channel, I’d be concerned about different rates of thermal expansion between the AL and the roof fiberglass.
Good point, then I will apply the 12" long 3M tape then leave a 2" space, then apply 12" tape, then...
timaz996
You should post a picture of what you are talking about.
John C
3 minutes ago, klcdenver said:You have to stay with diameter bolt that fits snug to the hole in your mounting brackets. You should also have a steel bushing inside the rubber on the shock.
OK, then new bolt!
Thank you!
Tom Cherry
4 minutes ago, John C said:
I am in the middle of replacing all my shocks, just noticed the old shock doesn't have the steel piece inside the top bolt hole but the now one does.
The is no way for me to push the old bolt inside new shock top hole without removing the steel piece.
So I have two options
1. Remove the steel piece and use the old bolt and nut
2. Leave the steel piece in place, buy a new set of the bolts to fit the hole on the new shock.What will you do?
Thank you
Assume you mean the steel bushing inside the new one is wider that your bracket?
Call Bilstein and ask for RV Shock Tech support. Bilstein had some errors in the literature. If you ordered from one of online distributors, most would get the MH information and call Bilstein themselves and verify PN before they shipped.
Based on your comments on the other thread, i assumed you had a stud nut on top.
Bilstein or the distributor is your first call. I am hesitant to advice a shade tree fix as you may have the wrong shock. Supposedly all the Monaco’s were the same, but I have heard of some issues when Monaco did some weird things and there was not a Bilstein that would work on that model. Source Engineering ran into that, IIRC, and the member ended up with Koni’s…
Is there a stamped Bilstein number on your old shocks. Monaco also did buy off shore shocks and had them custom painted to match, but the word BILSTEIN was never on them….or so I was told by an EX Monaco employee…
4 minutes ago, John C said:OK, then new bolt!
Thank you!
CONFUSED…
The bolt must be the same diameter as the old one….to fit in the mounting holes….otherwise the shock is gonna wallow around.
Please read my post….
your description of the issue confused me….is the new steel bushing too WIDE or is the hole diameter wrong.?
I would not beat out a bushing. Can you easily remove the new bushing? Is the diameter the same.
Lots of questions….speaking for the staff, we recommend that you sort this out with Billstein and are concerned that a member might unknowingly advise something unsafe…and shocks are critical issues…
OUR POSITION….any advice posted here that may be incorrect for your situation must be flagged with a comment that anything done or modified during an installation that is questionable and not approved by the vendor could be a safety issue……and is to be considered as “incorrect until the manufacturer approves” and that you have acknowledged such…absolves the site of all liability….
This might be simple…but until it is clear….anything you do is at your own risk….
Thanks for understanding….
Ivan K
58 minutes ago, waterskier_1 said:You got me curious, so I just looked mine up also. June 2019 I paid $282.51 - $58.45 = $224.06 for two Group 31 batteries.
In February 2024 I paid $384.77 -$58.69 = $326.08 for the exact same batteries, but I did purchase the second set in Phoenix, with a slightly higher sales tax.
In the last 2 - 3 years batteries (as with almost everything) have gone way up - 45% in this case. But, they were still the cheapest Group 31 batteries I could find at the time - including Sam's Club and Costco. Note that I'm west of the Mississippi, and have been told that battery products are different, so my experience may be different from those on the east side.
-Rick N.
$278 in TX a year ago from Batteries+ as well. Will see how long they last, I put a PowerPulse on them to hopefully help out. That was with 10% online discount that they matched in store and I kept one good old battery for my tractor and substituted it with a smaller one which cost me $5 in core charge. Things aren't certainly looking up.
Need urgent help on Shock!
Ivan K
Interesting. My new Bilsteins came with the sleeves separate, like if they were an option to install or not. Since my old shocks had the sleeves, I pressed them in and used the new ones just like the originals. Exact fit but that's few years ago and my shocks have eyes on both ends.
rbowlesusa
Thanks for all the input. I have bought 2 different lights and whichever works the best will win. I will plan on putting it on this weekend and will post a picture afterwards.
Steven Schoepke
I was not under the coach! It was in getting serviced on 6 15ton jacks.
Benjamin
Truck shops are often the cheapest and freshest batteries. The peterbilt shop had a special of $90 and even a couple bucks less with their card, plus tax and core charge of course. The 750cca "heavy duty" I mentioned were $99 each with exchange, didn't ask for, but may have got a discount, they were almost six months old and six of them.
Kenster
You say you have the hydraulic system. Check the corresponding solenoid on the pump pack to make sure it is completely closed. You may want to slightly open the solenoid and then re-close it.
John C
52 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:Assume you mean the steel bushing inside the new one is wider that your bracket?
Call Bilstein and ask for RV Shock Tech support. Bilstein had some errors in the literature. If you ordered from one of online distributors, most would get the MH information and call Bilstein themselves and verify PN before they shipped.
Based on your comments on the other thread, i assumed you had a stud nut on top.
Bilstein or the distributor is your first call. I am hesitant to advice a shade tree fix as you may have the wrong shock. Supposedly all the Monaco’s were the same, but I have heard of some issues when Monaco did some weird things and there was not a Bilstein that would work on that model. Source Engineering ran into that, IIRC, and the member ended up with Koni’s…
Is there a stamped Bilstein number on your old shocks. Monaco also did buy off shore shocks and had them custom painted to match, but the word BILSTEIN was never on them….or so I was told by an EX Monaco employee…
CONFUSED…
The bolt must be the same diameter as the old one….to fit in the mounting holes….otherwise the shock is gonna wallow around.
Please read my post….your description of the issue confused me….is the new steel bushing too WIDE or is the hole diameter wrong.?
I would not beat out a bushing. Can you easily remove the new bushing? Is the diameter the same.
Lots of questions….speaking for the staff, we recommend that you sort this out with Billstein and are concerned that a member might unknowingly advise something unsafe…and shocks are critical issues…
OUR POSITION….any advice posted here that may be incorrect for your situation must be flagged with a comment that anything done or modified during an installation that is questionable and not approved by the vendor could be a safety issue……and is to be considered as “incorrect until the manufacturer approves” and that you have acknowledged such…absolves the site of all liability….
This might be simple…but until it is clear….anything you do is at your own risk….
Thanks for understanding….
The old one is Bilstein.
The old one doesn't have steel sleeve so you need a large bolt.
Now the now shock does have sleeve, the old bolt just won't fit.
Just bolt thr new smaller bolts from a bolt store with exactly same material. The one with grease is the old one
Bilstein Shock Torque
John C
Believe or not, I just talk to Bilstein , they told that I need ask Monaco!!!!
This shock is specific for Monaco and they don't have any torque information on it!
The torque value on their website is for other shocks!
Indydyne
Tom,
My thoughts went exactly where yours did as well. I am very careful not torun the slide too long in either direction once it hits the stops. That countermeasure only works when I am the one pushing the button. If I had many using the slide, I would have definitely stayed with the pin.
96 EVO
I'm surprised your '07 coach doesn't have the pin / nut mount on top 🤔!
dennis.mcdonaugh
Okay, there seems to be some confusion about my question. My coach has an air suspension. It’s only used when going down the road. When parked, I dump the air and use the hydraulic jacks to level the coach. There is nothing wrong with the hydraulic system.
The ride height system on this coach is much simpler than those that use air to level the coach when parked. It consists of three legs, one in front which controls the front ride height, and two in back controlling the left and right side ride height. Each is controlled by a Hadley ride height valve.
Those legs should be air tight from the valve through the air bags to the dump valve. The front and road side are, but the curb side leaks. There are not a lot of parts in the system, ride height valve, a few fittings, two air bags and dump solenoid and valve
It’s not the valve or valve fittings, dump valve, air bag fittings or the Tee that splits the air line to both bags. One air bag is about 6 years old, the other is original.
Its been raining a lot here so I haven’t had much time to explore further I have another new air bag, I may just replace the second one on that side if I can’t find a leak
windsorbill06
2 hours ago, 96 EVO said:Is it possible that self resetting breaker is supposed to trip before the sheer pin breaks?
Funny you mention that. I had thought about replacing it and see what happens, but usually when a breaker gets old/weak, I would think it would trip sooner rather than later. I can't remember if this slide use to shut off power or not to the motor when it reached it's limits. I know my rear bedroom slide (drivers side), will make a ratcheting sound when you hold the switch too long. This forward slide operation is different.
Maybe start practicing what Brian B is doing and I'm the only one operating this slide. Can't blame anybody else but me when the sheer pin goes, Right?
96 EVO
Only thing is Bill, you probably shouldn't need to be that precise when you take your finger off the switch, if the system is working as designed.
Kenster
Call me stupid. Are you saying the three cylinders that go down and touch the ground are air operated?
jacwjames
I only have 2 slides, the larger connector is what I have on my controller.
I wonder if the two smaller connectors are for the front slides. You might try disconnecting and see which slides the affect. If they are for the front slides you might consider swapping and see how the slide acts when you do that.
I did a search on slide controllers available from the most common sites and never saw one that looks like yours.
Mike H
Dr4Film I suspect has the correct answer. Your transmission has gone into 'LIMP' mode. I had that happen to me. Allison has mobile techs that can come to you and repair it.
Steven Schoepke
I was not under the coach! It was in getting serviced on 6 15ton jacks.
My 2004 Executive has only airbag leveling.
Ivan K
So the new smaller bolts will rattle in their brackets and elongate the holes? I would look for bushings to fill the difference but my top eyes go on a stud welded through the frame rail.
dennis.mcdonaugh
39 minutes ago, Kenster said:Call me stupid. Are you saying the three cylinders that go down and touch the ground are air operated?
No. Those are hydraulic.
10 minutes ago, Kenster said:What legs should be airtight are you referring to?
The three legs of the air suspension from the ride height valve through the air bags to the air dump valve solenoid. One in the front, one for the left and one for the right rear.
hex_nut
Vince
If you are not a member of BAC (Beaver Ambassador Club), I would recommend that you join and post your question on their forum. There will most likely be a member there with an identical coach. I think your Beaver was built before Monaco bought Beaver, and was certainly built on a SMC Magnum chassis rather than a Monaco Roadmaster. Good luck.
Richard
John C
5 minutes ago, Ivan K said:So the new smaller bolts will rattle in their brackets and elongate the holes? I would look for bushings to fill the difference but my top eyes go on a stud welded through the frame rail.
I don't believe the bolt will elongate the hole, because it fits the hole just right, maybe 1mm gap? after I tight the bolt it shouldn't move...
1 hour ago, 96 EVO said:I'm surprised your '07 coach doesn't have the pin / nut mount on top 🤔!
It does have nut mount top..
Joel J
First $100,000. Takes it!
42’ Tag Axel, Three Slides, Countess III floor plan (North South Queen Bed)
Good tires, 10K Onan Generator, Aqua Hot, HWH Auto Air level, Air Bag Ride suspension, Allson 6 Speed,
Beautiful Classic Cherry cabs, 77K Miles on Chassis.
Beautiful Brown and Gold paint scheme.
For floor plan see page 8, how to mount solar panel brakcets with screws/lag bolts
“Lay two aluminum struct channel in parallel (10' or 20' depends on location) and with glue the channels to the roof with 3M tape (that will be much stronger than just glue the bracket), I know I will use much much more 3M tape this way and I am willing to pay for the extra tape.”
With the long sections of channel, I’d be concerned about different rates of thermal expansion between the AL and the roof fiberglass.
Walter that is the method I used. Best to use solid strut rather than the perforated style for increased adhesive contact area. I would highly recommend the expensive 3M pre cleaner. I did some tests and it doubled the adhesive strength of my samples. I was able to clearly identify some roof struts from vent locations. At those points I used 1/4" X 1/4" X 20 aluminum rivet nuts just in case. I use these on occasion so I invested in the official setting tool. If due to a faulty installation the rivet nut turns before the bolt tightens you are going to have a difficult problem to deal with.
For those who are concerned about the tape adhesive many of the 53' vans on the road use the system to attach outside panels to the trailer structure. Of course this system is better suited for those with a metal roof.
Gary Cole
Just Jim
Sorry everyone. I sort of hijacked the thread as I thought the original poster had a solution. I think I've caused confusion by asking a question about my coach that is having a similar lean to one side but does have air leveling as well.
John C
33 minutes ago, Gary Cole said:Walter that is the method I used. Best to use solid strut rather than the perforated style for increased adhesive contact area. I would highly recommend the expensive 3M pre cleaner. I did some tests and it doubled the adhesive strength of my samples. I was able to clearly identify some roof struts from vent locations. At those points I used 1/4" X 1/4" X 20 aluminum rivet nuts just in case. I use these on occasion so I invested in the official setting tool. If due to a faulty installation the rivet nut turns before the bolt tightens you are going to have a difficult problem to deal with.
For those who are concerned about the tape adhesive many of the 53' vans on the road use the system to attach outside panels to the trailer structure. Of course this system is better suited for those with a metal roof.
Yes, definitely solid strut.
Could you please tell me what 3M Pre Cleaner you used? where did you buy the pre cleaner & 3M Tape? there are so many fake products on Amazon I want to buy genuine 3M.
Could you please elaborate on"Walter that is the method I used", never heard this before.
Thank you.
wamcneil
1 hour ago, Gary Cole said:For those who are concerned about the tape adhesive many of the 53' vans on the road use the system to attach outside panels to the trailer structure. Of course this system is better suited for those with a metal roof.
In general, I have a lot of confidence in the HB tape! That's what I used on the 2"x3" brackets holding my panels to the roof and no fasteners.
My concern is only the differing rates of thermal expansion adding up to something significant over a 20' length.
Take my input with a grain of salt though... I don't have a degree in this discipline, nor do I have any practical experience bonding a 20' piece of metal to fiberglass...
54 minutes ago, John C said:Could you please tell me what 3M Pre Cleaner you used? where did you buy the pre cleaner & 3M Tape? there are so many fake products on Amazon I want to buy genuine 3M.
I'm sure pre-cleaner can only be a good thing... But I don't trust that'll completely remove 20 years of chalk and sun damage from the gellcoat. Personally, I wet sanded the area with 1200 or 2000 or something like that to remove any chalkiness and wiped down with acetone. Pre-cleaner would probably have been better than the acetone.
windsorbill06
2 hours ago, jacwjames said:I only have 2 slides, the larger connector is what I have on my controller.
I wonder if the two smaller connectors are for the front slides. You might try disconnecting and see which slides the affect. If they are for the front slides you might consider swapping and see how the slide acts when you do that.
I did a search on slide controllers available from the most common sites and never saw one that looks like yours.
You and Ben got me thinking.
I first went back and checked all my rollers. I have 5 of them. I adjusted the 2 slide mounted rollers (inside kitchen cabinets) a little, but otherwise, all seemed perfect. Slides goes in and out smoothly. I operated it at least 10 times, but I didn't go to fully out or fully in. Seems like that's when pin sheers off. All seemed good.
Then I decided to look at the slide out circuit board that I posted a picture of. It's in the rear electric compartment. Like Tom says, probably not the best place to have electronics. Unplugged everything from the circuit board, including the 2 fuses. When I connected my multimeter (continuity) to the 2 blades of the 20 amp resettable, it was actually pulsing. I've never seen or heard of that before. I noticed the blades were black with what I would guess was oxidation. Didn't get a before picture but they really shinned up with a little elbow grease and contact cleaner. Tested again, and constant buzzing like it should.
Plugged everything back together.
I ran the slide full out and full in a couple times, to where the motor was lugging. So far, so good.
Is this sheer pin issue resolved? I don't know. Some time and testing is in order.
how to mount solar panel brakcets with screws/lag bolts
Ivan K
If you want to calculate the expansion effect, maybe this will be a start. Of course internet is always right but this sounds scientific enough for a start:
...fiberglass lay-up will be somewhere around 8 micro inches/inch per deg F. Correspondingly, for stainless steel it is about 25 percent higher and for aluminum, about 70 percent higher....so stainless steel is much closer
With my non-scientific calculation over a 100F swing, fiberglass might expand 0.19" over 20 feet, stainless 0.24" and aluminum 0.33"...so evaluate the delta from an installation temperature.
George
I don't have any power on the trailer charging line? does anybody have any knowledge of where the fuse and relay would be located it says it is in the rear relay distribution box but cant find where it is at. I have a 2006 endeavor
Thank you.
birdshill123
The major truck dealers sell those batteries as loss leaders. Sometimes they are on sale.
jacwjames
Hopefully you got it fixed.
Can you make out the number under the bar code, might be able to search using that.
jacwjames
When my transmission went into limp mode I was low on oil. Not able to check the oil level with the shift pad I used the dipstick accessed by opening the bedroom hatch cover.
Mike H
18 minutes ago, jacwjames said:When my transmission went into limp mode I was low on oil. Not able to check the oil level with the shift pad I used the dipstick accessed by opening the bedroom hatch cover.
Don't trust that dipstick as that was added by Monaco, NOT Allison. Once you get your oil level correct you might want to put a scratch across it to sort of calibrate it against your shift pad
96 EVO
Shocks you have pictured are eye-eye.
I thought before '07, Roadmaster had switched to eye-pin shocks.
windsorbill06
1 hour ago, 96 EVO said:Yep, hopefully that solves your problem Bill!
thanks Ben, Me too!
2 hours ago, jacwjames said:Hopefully you got it fixed.
Can you make out the number under the bar code, might be able to search using that.
the number on the bar code is 10667D (appears the board was made by IDS, Inc).
This one is extinct. I did find a 10667C. It looks the same from pictures, but unsure if it will work.
jacwjames
1 hour ago, Mike H said:Don't trust that dipstick as that was added by Monaco, NOT Allison. Once you get your oil level correct you might want to put a scratch across it to sort of calibrate it against your shift pad
Long story short, I had a bad bad bad leak and did not know how much oil I had lost. Rig would not shift out of 1st gear. I had no idea how much oil I lost.
Dipstick showed NO oil. I added one gallon (yes 1 gallon) and check the dipstick with the engine idling for cold check. Still nothing, so I added a 2nd gallon, still nothing on dipstick. Finally added a 3rd gallon and the dipstick showed oil at correct level. So I took it on about a 20 mile drive at highway speed, parked to let fluid settle down, and checked with shift pad >>> OL OK.
So desperate times call for desperate measures, dip stick was the only option I had.
I was in UT at the time and called the nearest Cummins shop ~250 miles away and explained what happened, what I did. Transmission wasn't heating up, shifted good. They said I got lucky as the last 50 miles was pretty flat so the tranny didn't suck air, which would have toasted it. I asked if they recommended a filter/oil change and they said the 3 gallons I added was half of a normal change so NO they didn't recommend an oil change.
Finished my trip, drove ~2500 mile home. Took an oil sample and sent it in for analysis and it came back good. I got lucky.
You gotta do what you gotta do.
jacwjames
I found an older thread on IRV2 discussion this board, might be helpful, on post shows the purpose of the relays. Location of Trailer Charging Fuse -06 Endeaver/Diplomat
Frank McElroy
Offline I was trying to help George and I asked him to post this question. According to the wiring diagrams there is something called a "Rear Distribution" with 10 relay and 16 fuses. These would include relays and fuses for the rear turn signal/stop lights, engine ECM, Transmission computer and the battery charging power for the trailer plug connector. Does anyone know where the "Rear Distribution" fuses/relays are located? (BTW, the owners manual doesn't mention it but the wiring diagrams show it.)
MyronTruex
On my 2008 Endeavor the distribution panel is on the passenger side, last compartment. It looks identical to the front run distribution box below the driver. Inside that compartment are a few boxes.
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