1nolaguy Posted November 13, 2023 Share Posted November 13, 2023 It seems lately it is either electric or plumbing issues. Everything was fine until a few days ago. Then the water pressure and flow on the hot water side dropped to a dribble. The cold water side is fine. We are on city water so I am assuming the issue is not between the the spigot and the rig. What makes it even more complexing is that initially it was intermittent, that is the water flow would be just a little and then fine. At first I thought it might be a faucet issue but the problem is seen now at all faucets. Any suggestions on where to look? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrAmbassador Posted November 13, 2023 Share Posted November 13, 2023 Interesting, there is a possibility of blockage in the water heater. Does the outside shower have the same flow? Some water heaters have a screen on the inlet side. Hard water will calcify the system. I would try draining the water heater and then flush it. If the flow out of the drain is strong, I would say the obstruction is on the outlet side of the water heater. Wishing the best! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MyronTruex Posted November 13, 2023 Share Posted November 13, 2023 If you can turn your valves to water heater bypass for a quick test it may lead you directly to a check valve on the water heater. I had to change mine several years ago. Getting the water heater out was easy, getting that darn check valve took three of us and and a torch to get the old one to break loose. While it was out it got a very good cleaning. A couple of years ago I changed the heating element to a higher wattage one and changed the snap discs so the water gets quite a bit hotter. This is a danger of course so I added a mixer valve and the water comes out steady and hot enough. With the added heat and larger heating element the wife never runs out of hot water. If she did I would turn the propane part on as well. Now that this thread has surfaced, it reminds me it is time to flush it out again. I found that removing the heating element really helped with the flushing. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1nolaguy Posted November 13, 2023 Author Share Posted November 13, 2023 Thanks Myron. To get to the back of my Atwood (where electric element and water lines are located) is a major undertaking as it is through the back closet and requires pulling out some built ins. We are leaving our current CS tomorrow and headed home for the holidays so I will wait until I get home and go after this. BTW - I flushed water from the HWH via the low point drain and flow at the faucets are improved though not full pressure. I am thinking you are right about a blockage or partial blockage, possibly at the discharge check valve. WILL KNOW FOR SURE BY NEXT WEEK. 3 hours ago, MrAmbassador said: Interesting, there is a possibility of blockage in the water heater. Does the outside shower have the same flow? Some water heaters have a screen on the inlet side. Hard water will calcify the system. I would try draining the water heater and then flush it. If the flow out of the drain is strong, I would say the obstruction is on the outlet side of the water heater. Wishing the best! FYI - outside hot water flow also effected so possible restriction or blockage near the HWH likely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solution Scotty Hutto Posted November 13, 2023 Solution Share Posted November 13, 2023 Echoing @myrontruex, exact same symptoms you mention. It turned out to be a stuck check valve. I was able to dislodge it temporarily, but eventually ended up having to pull the water heater out of the coach to replace the check valve. In my case (2006 Dip), I had to disconnect everything and completely pull the WH out of the coach to work on it. Took me about 2 hours start to finish. Everything has worked fine since (about 3 years ago) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MyronTruex Posted November 14, 2023 Share Posted November 14, 2023 If you do have to pull the heater, I suggest you replace the heater element at the same time and any anode rod it might have. It is much easier to flush the sludge out with the heating element out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1nolaguy Posted November 14, 2023 Author Share Posted November 14, 2023 I agree and plan to do so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdinsmore Posted November 15, 2023 Share Posted November 15, 2023 Disconnect the output line from your water heater to see if calcium has narrowed it. It's a quick and easy check, and other than the screens in the faucets being clogged, this is a likely candidate. By the way several years ago I had slw flow from three faucets and thought there had to be some common, single obstruction. It turned out all faucet screens were plugged at the same time: I don't like unkiely coincidences. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1nolaguy Posted November 15, 2023 Author Share Posted November 15, 2023 Thanks Bob, Good idea to check the out-flow point of the heater. I had already checked and cleaned the screens prior to writing the OP. The issue is intermittent so I suspect some heater calcification is causing blockage, either at the exit or in the line. I am still getting some hot water it just varies in flow rate and pressure so whatever is causing it must be moving around as this is occurring while we are stationary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waterskier_1 Posted January 16 Share Posted January 16 Resurrecting this old thread. Camping with another Monaco owner here in Quartzsite and he is having an issue with hot water pressure at all faucets. Cold water is strong, hot water no so much. Since it's at all faucets, and worked fine the first three weeks of his trip here, I'm thinking it's likely a check valve. I looked at the back of his water heater, which can be accessed from his rear closet. I only see the bypass valve and brass fittings. I don't see anything that looks like a check valve. Can someone describe in detail, or better, provide pictures of where this check valve is located? -Rick N Quartzsite, AZ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1nolaguy Posted January 16 Author Share Posted January 16 i am following this thread as i am experiencing the same issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happycarz Posted February 15 Share Posted February 15 I would think if the tempering valve was fouling with water deposits it could affect the whole hot water system. My red, hot wate,r PEX to the faucets is in the gray pipe insulation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Hutto Posted February 15 Share Posted February 15 The check valve for the typical Atwood water heater is located where the hot water exits the tank. The one for my coach looks like this: my $0.02… there are ones with plastic guts and ones with stainless steel guts… pay the extra $2.00 and get the stainless steel… It goes into the back of my water heater here: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happycarz Posted February 15 Share Posted February 15 That would be easy to miss. I need another picture from a better view. I bought a check valve for my system to put in the spare parts bin. It looks similar the ones in your pictures. Now I know where it goes. I was thinking it was in the wet bay behind the white panel. Are there two in the system? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martinvz Posted February 15 Share Posted February 15 This is not directly related. At the den of 2022 I found a lot of scale when I drained the water heater as part of the winterizing process. A year later (2023) the amount of scale was considerably less than before when flushing the water heater with the wand. The only difference is that in March ‘23 I purchased a water softener and filter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Hutto Posted February 15 Share Posted February 15 9 hours ago, Happycarz said: I bought a check valve for my system to put in the spare parts bin. It looks similar the ones in your pictures. Now I know where it goes. I was thinking it was in the wet bay behind the white panel. Are there two in the system? There are at least two check valves that I’m aware of in my coach (YMMV). 1 - At the city water inlet in the wet bay. On my coach this is attached to the ball valve (white handle below) that directs incoming water to either the fresh water tank or directly to the coach plumbing. The check valve is on the output to coach plumbing such that it does not backfeed to the hose reel and maintains pressure in the plumbing system. I had problems with this last year and learned a lot about how it works (or doesn’t). I replaced the ball valve and check valve at the same time 2 - At the output (hot) of the water heater. This prevents reverse flow through the water heater. I don’t have an Aquahot on my coach, so I’m not sure how those factor in… There may be others that I’m not aware of, or if you have an Aquahot and not a dedicated water heater, your system may be plumbed differently. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happycarz Posted March 1 Share Posted March 1 This about right for Monaco, I have no check valve at the water heater. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1nolaguy Posted March 1 Author Share Posted March 1 Not sure if you are the original owner or not. Based on your photo I do not think this is a Factory install. Looks like at some point a repair was made and some "non-standard" parts were used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happycarz Posted March 1 Share Posted March 1 Hi Loel, I ordered this coach and took factory delivery. The only repair on the water heater is the flex line that was getting hard and cracked. So, being proactive as I am, I replaced it. I added the black pipe insulation on the red PEX. Other than those two things, what you see is factory original. Theres a reason they are called snowflakes, with each being different. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1nolaguy Posted March 3 Author Share Posted March 3 The flex hose is what stood out to me. Also the "outlet" fitting, where there should be a a BFP, looks somewhat like a thermostat. Note what looks like a grey knob with hash marks. Not saying that is what it is just what it looks like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1nolaguy Posted March 3 Author Share Posted March 3 So in keeping with this subject, today I replaced the heating element and was surprised at the amount of rust. The old element itself was covered in rust particles that did not adhere to the element. That is they could be brushed off with my finger from the element which was still wet. IN addition the base of the element was rusted and rust particles could be felt around the threads and the point where the nipple penetrates the tank. There were no signs of calcification. We do run a softener in line for all water coming into the coach. I removed as much rust as possible, covered the new element threads and rubber seal with a coat of silicone grease and reinstall it. Since I do not have a source of water where the rig is currently I did not test it out but will do so in the next week when the coach is moved from storage to a nearby park. I plan to flush the tank thoroughly with fresh water before testing to try to remove as much loose rust as possible. The BFP appears to be screwed directly into the back of the tank and a T is directly attached to that following by Pex. I order to change the BFP I will have to remove the Pex. One more PITA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happycarz Posted March 3 Share Posted March 3 The valve with the gray knob is a tempering valve, mixing cold water with hot water. This is to prevents someone from scalding themselves when they don’t have the ability to adjust the shower knob. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1nolaguy Posted March 4 Author Share Posted March 4 Interesting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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