Monacoers Daily News

14 minutes ago, joefromperry said:

When I had to remove my aquahot from the coach a few years ago to repair a leak, I installed shutoff valves on both engine coolant lines to/from the aquahot to avoid the mess if/when I need to pull it out again. But I did it right there in the bay, not at the engine. I used these from Home Depot: IMG_5082.heic

Thanks Joe

All of Mike's posts on his Dynasty have been spot on...TY

That is a respectable position.  

If it a Lippert hydraulic system it could be a bad cylinder.  Had same issue on the curb side just after the warranty expired and no problem after replacement.

Morning, when i did mine rather than have a mount to the block design i had cut out 3 ft of heater hose from the block, i then replaced it with silicon heater hose, then i installed the shut off valves. That way i knew i would not have to worry about the the hose leading up to the valve. My coach is rear radiator design so my access is thru the closet. One last word about the silicon hose i also used the special hose clamps ,they are full circle so as not to damage it like some others might

Now I am curious and want to read the bad and dangerous advice.  😉

I've been looking for a different toad.  I found a 2013 Ford F 150 Platinum Ecoboost all ready set up for towing, looks like it is in really clean condition.  New tires and brakes,  86K miles on it. 

Anyone have any thoughts on this, especially the Ecoboost engine.  I heard there are problems with specific year, trying to figure out if this one would be reliable.  

I have a Scangauge D and that is the code it provides. I may need to contact Cummins with my engine serial number to figure this out. I have noticed looking online and in my manual that the engine light coming on and going off after a minute or so may indicate water in the fuel, so have changed both filters. I will be on the road early next week and will see if that has made a difference. There was just a tiny bit of water in the one old filter when I opened the drain.

On 3/31/2024 at 12:47 PM, rpasetto said:

An '06 with Valid air leveling?  I thought Monaco used HWH up thru '06, then started with Valid in '07.

My 06 Windsor has the Valid air leveling as well.

2 hours ago, ktloah said:

All of Mike's posts on his Dynasty have been spot on...TY

Thank you.  I appreciate that.  Happy to help where and when I can.

20 hours ago, hex_nut said:

My 1/4 inch ball valves that drain my air tanks are leaking (I have 4 of them).  Some time back in one of the discussions about air leaks, someone posted a picture and description of quality replacements for these ball valves.  I have searched the forum but have not been able to find the reference.  I think it was Scotty that posted the picture.  Can anyone point me in the right direction?  Thanks

Richard

The Valves are Haldex Drain Valves and are available through NAPA Auto Parts. Part number is MBI 12110. Price is $17.99 each.

On my 07 Diplomat, which may be the same as your Knight, my rear camera lost signal and then became intermittent. I pulled the camera and found the cable just dangling, unsupported in the rear cap cavity. I located the connector, cleaned and reseated it then zip-tied the cable so the connector is not under any stress. That seemed to fix my problem. 

Do you have a manual, there may be a way to recover the fault codes other then the scangauge. 

Do you have an Alladin display, have you check what is possible using that?

2 hours ago, Rikadoo said:

Morning, when i did mine rather than have a mount to the block design i had cut out 3 ft of heater hose from the block, i then replaced it with silicon heater hose, then i installed the shut off valves. That way i knew i would not have to worry about the the hose leading up to the valve. My coach is rear radiator design so my access is thru the closet. One last word about the silicon hose i also used the special hose clamps ,they are full circle so as not to damage it like some others might

My initial idea was to avoid any hose prior to the valve but I think I’m going the direction you both have already gone and splice in. Great thought on the silicone hose and appropriate clamps.

On 5/1/2024 at 7:03 AM, Newcsn said:

@Frank McElroy Thanks for your feedback! However, is it possible my Dynasty may be one of those snowflakes? When I turn OFF the step switch the only thing it does is keep the step extended when the coach isn’t running. It will not keep the step retracted. I experimented w/ it both ways.

My solution was to unplug the motor w/ the steps retracted. Then when we got ready to head north I reached under & plugged the steps back in.

And @Tom Cherry, we employ your procedure of keeping the steps extended when we’re parked & don’t have the constructed steps.

Thanks again!

I just tested mine.  With the steps retracted, ignition OFF and door closed, while inside the coach, I turned the step switch to OFF and the steps stay retracted when the door opens.  If the door is open with the steps out and I shut off the step switch the steps will stay out whether the door is opened or closed.  If the step switch is turned ON, the steps will extend when the door opens and retract when the door is closed.  That's how the system was designed to work and that's what mine does.  

If you're following the proper procedure I described above and the steps still come out when you open the door, you likely have a wiring or switch control issue.

I have had this problem with both of my hydraulic slides. It was leaking hoses. Look for leaks around the fittings. Monaco used a hose that will NOT accept replaceable fittings. I replaced the whole hose. You can not just pull new hose threw by connecting to old hose. My hoses went up inside frame and was zip tied every six inches or so. Rerouted them where they are accessible and visable. Not easy but has worked for a couple of years.

30 minutes ago, DZZippy said:

My initial idea was to avoid any hose prior to the valve but I think I’m going the direction you both have already gone and splice in. Great thought on the silicone hose and appropriate clamps.

I would still keep them as close to the engine as possible!

Great Thanks gona try them...

It was related to using old tires in certain positions beyond manufacturers recommendations, if I remember right.

Ben, I have installed several recent rv 55. If they have no check internally . They still do hold pressure when shut off. I will look when I get a chance for a check valve in the system elsewhere.as you I have had numerous atv types apart and find the same internal components. Some chemicals cause those internal rubber diaphragms and check flappers to fail..  

as you say with out a check of some type the pump doesn’t pressurize in either direction. 

The manufacutuers site states the reason for the Check valve is to prevent back flow when on city water.

Thanks for short concise posts  I tend not to read the post that are a page long. Although from time to time I may be quilty of that.

I removed a pair of valves from my engine.  I had two pairs of heater hoses, one had valves threaded into the engine, and the other was the heater hoses to the front heater core.  I didn't trust the valves to stand the engine vibration, so plugged those holes and will tee into the other heater hoses for other uses.  I will probably not add shut off valves either, as I can cut the hose and loop back to the engine at any point with a knife and screwdriver to keep going in an emergency. 

On mine, the heater hoses to the front have a bypass crossover "H" just before valve, in order to keep hot coolant circulating and provide quicker response I assume.  Useful for defrost also.  The downside of that is heat added to the basement anytime the engine is running.

 We spent the night at a rest area in Colorado. In the am I tried to open the door and nothing happened. When my Dynasty as in my shop I had removed the inner door panles and checked that the latches were timed correctly. All was good so I lubricated everything with white grease. Worked great. But here I was locked inside. My old body could  not get out the emergency window. Another RV'r came over to help but without making a hole in the inner door panel one cannot access the  bowels of the door. Finally I called an RV shop. He had a tech that lived next to the  rest area in a KOA. We still could not open the door. He finally realized that the problem was the dead bolt. With a bent putty knife we got it open. The dead bolt had split. I taped up the openings and we made it back to Canada. I tried the paryts list but found nothing. Did some googling and found this: 

Deadbolt
TomV48 15 hours ago