Water Pump Question

[dereeves]

What is a good pressure for a motorhome? I am trying to go through every system on this Diplomat and water is coming up next. When you are hooked to city water, does your pump work or are you purely reliant on the water pressure or do you fill the water tank and use the pump, or i guess how this stuff work? Sorry to sound like a tard, but i am new to all of this stuff other then ensuring it works or not for inspection report for sale/auction.

[Steve P]

IMHO - You don't need to use the pump if you are connected to an external water source (city water or campground or well), but a good water pressure regulator is a must.  Just don't buy the junky Camco one.  50lbs is a good setting.  The water pump is mainly for pumping from the water tank when traveling or boondocking.

[Scotty Hutto]

Recommended pressures for most Monaco coaches are between 55-65 psi.  Under that and you will have low water flow and perpetually have soap in your hair. Above that and you will use more water and have the possibility of causing leaks (the plumbing system *should* be able to hold much higher pressures ~120 psi with no problem - but these are older coaches, and the operative word is should. If you put 120 psi on your water system you will immediately find out if you have any weak spots…). 

Based on the experience of this moderating this group over the years, I’ve observed two basic approaches:

1. Use your fresh water tank and pump for all fresh water, and use the city water connection only to fill your fresh water tank. This is the method that seems to be preferred by the owners of upper-level coaches (Dynasty, Executive, Signature) with good water pumps (I.e., Remco AquaJet 55ARV)

(editor’s note: I have a “lower level” coach - a Diplomat - but upgraded to a Aquajet 55ARV and prefer “method 1”)

2. Use city water pressure, with a GOOD regulator, when connected to city water.  This seems to be he preferred method of owners of lower-level coaches with Shureflo water pumps. 
 

(with apologies to Camelot owners - I’m not sure which pump came on those coaches, but I’m certain @Tom Cherry can enlighten us   

A “GOOD” regulator is a brass, adjustable regulator (typically Watts, though Camco makes some decent ones too), preferably with a gauge to show that actual pressure behind the regulator. The $14.95 “barrel” regulators (restrictors) do not give the ability to adjust and aren’t really considered adequate. There are several threads on here about good regulators.  

Your mileage may vary, but neither approach is wrong. 

What you DON’T want to do is to use the pump while city water pressure is on the system (I.e., to “boost” city water pressure). This can (and will, in my first-hand experience) cause the diaphragm on your pump to rupture, causing city water and pump pressure to backfeed and cause all sorts of weird behavior. Some have done this for years with no problem, however it is not recommended by the pump manufacturers. 
 

Hope that’s helpful. 

[dereeves]

Thank you for the information. I will make sure to turn the city water off before using the pump. Iam glad i read that as i would have turned the pump on thinking it needed to be on.

[Tom Cherry]

Scotty speaks the truth.  Most folks, from time to time, have tried the "inline" pressure regulators.  They actually RESTRICT flow. Wives and daughters FUSS about lack of water (pressure, but really FLOW) when rinsing hair in the shower.

The regulator most commonly used is Valterra.  Amazon and CW and others have them...

Valterra RV Water Regulator, Lead-Free Brass Adjustable Water Regulator with Pressure Gauge for Camper, Trailer, RV Plumbing System

They are $64 and worth EVERY penny.  There are TWO THINGS that you need to know.  Buy TWO "Washing Machine screen filter washers.  I use one of them on the INLET of the Hose....and hook the Valterra up to the CG faucet.  That keeps trash out.  

NOW....once you find a CG with good pressure...and that is sometimes TOUGH when...unless you are out west  where the pressures will run in excess of 100 PSI and there will be warnings....you can THEN do a PRESSURE comparison.  THE other way to see how the pump is working.  Assuming you have an icemaker....then purchase a length of 1/4" tubing and compression fitting and then get a 1/4" tubing adapter to a "male Garden Hose" adapter.  Then you can use one of the Water Pressure Gauge Testers that the hardware stores sell.  

I CAN tell you that getting rid of the Monaco supplied (or maybe dealer) inline regulator was the best thing I ever did....should have done it earler.

NOW...you have a left over garden hose screen washer. Use it on the INLET of the BACK FLUSH Fitting for cleaning or "mixing" the black tank.  You do NOT want trash in it.  I actually have a short length of water hose with a 1/4 turn shut off valve on the end.  I keep that hooked up to the back flow fitting.  I have the screen washer on the fitting that comes out of the 1/4 turn valve.  Insects like to build crap. I use a HOSE Cap on my water hose and the back flush hose during storage to keep them clean.

Good Luck...

YES...the Camelot owners, at least in 2008 and up, had the infamous AquaTech later sold to Remco RV 55 pump and it is the defacto standard....but others use other brands.

NOW...that also brings up another POINT. Based on the age of your system, you may (probably) DO have an "Accumulator" tank. Those are notorious for having a leak in the bladder. IF you run your test and the pressure is LOW...  Locate the tank.  find the "T" fitting where it is attached. Remove the accumulator tank fitting or take it loose and put on a PLUG.  Then use the system for and flush out all the air.  THEN measure the pressure.  You MIGHT find that the pump is GREAT....if it was low.  Eventually, most folks will replace these.  

Now the NEWER pumps, like the Remco do NOT recommend a bladder...but some folk use them and are happy..

Lots, of course....to learn.  Welcome aboard...
 

[96 EVO]

12 hours ago, Scotty Hutto said:

 

What you DON’T want to do is to use the pump while city water pressure is on the system (I.e., to “boost” city water pressure). This can (and will, in my first-hand experience) cause the diaphragm on your pump to rupture, causing city water and pump pressure to backfeed and cause all sorts of weird behavior. Some have done this for years with no problem, however it is not recommended by the pump manufacturers. 
 

 

Scotty, I tried that at one park with low pressure and it seemed to me all I was doing was using tank water, and no spigot water 🤔.

[jacwjames]

Normally we don't use water pump when on city water but sometimes when my wife is giving a dog a bath and needs the extra pressure to penetrate the fur she'll turn on the water pump.  We haven't had a problem but I guess it can happen.  

It does pull water from the tank, which is something that has to be monitored.   I always travel with full tanks but if we are parked for extended periods the tank can be pulled down some, always try to top off before leaving a park. 

[Jetjockey]

I always do all water demandthru the pump.  Sooner or later many systems will develop a leak. If on pump you will notice the pump cycle without having drawn any water. If on city water you notice it when something becomes soaked or flooded. Ever rv I have ever had of 6 developed a slow leak in there life . 
if you install a variable Speed pump as aquajet 55 ,you will have good  flow and a pump that speeds up with each additional faucet  you open .

[cbr046]

15 hours ago, Scotty Hutto said:

What you DON’T want to do is to use the pump while city water pressure is on the system (I.e., to “boost” city water pressure). This can (and will, in my first-hand experience) cause the diaphragm on your pump to rupture, causing city water and pump pressure to backfeed and cause all sorts of weird behavior. Some have done this for years with no problem, however it is not recommended by the pump manufacturers.

Worth repeating!

At campgrounds we use our own known quality tank water, but our stays are only a few days at best. 

I don't know what our pump psi is, but it's not enough.  *IF* it ever fails I'll replace with a higher psi pump, but it pumps water and (as far as I know) I don't have soapy hair.  👨‍🦳

- bob

[Ivylog]

Only time I’ll use my pump/tank even with city water is when it’s really cold. Most pumps have a Allen set screw to adjust the pressure.

[Happycarz]

With my Camelot, I use the pump 100% of the time. I leave home with soft water and it last 10 days to two weeks.  If on long trip I fill my tank and continue with using my pump. My first pump lasted 12 years and I replaced it with the ARV 55, which had similar specs to the OE pump.  This one has 5 years on it.  When the pump is constantly used, it lasts. 

When the coach was new, the pump really rattled the plastic floor in the wet bay. I installed a small piece of piece of plywood using soft rubber mounts at the screws. Then I mounted the pump on the board in the same fashion, double insulated. Now it has to be dead quiet in the coach to hear the pump, or me concentrating to hear it.  I leave the pump switch on 24/7.

I like the volume and I like the flow of the pump. I usually plug the electrical cord in when I arrive at the campground and call it good. When either of my holding tanks get 2/3 full I’ll empty them. BTW, my new SaniCon turbo 600 can dump a tank in less than one minute.  My last SaniCon took minutes and minutes to dump.  For years I used my slinky.  After researching, among friends, I jumped on the Turbo 600. I love it.

So, to repeat myself, I’m one that uses the water pump exclusively for my onboard water supply.

 

 

[Tom Cherry]

Everyone has different experiences.  Typically, I rarely find a CG with more than 40 PSI unless a High Pressure system or deep well out west.

IF i needed to supplement pressure on my rig and I have the AquaTech/Remco pump….which is the aftermarket version of the Monaco OEM pump, i would reduce the pressure on my adjustable Valterra regulator to 40 - 45.  If i needed more pressure like when wife and daughter rinse hair, turn on pump.  That will or should  protect the RV55 diaphragm.

FWIW.  The original RV-55 pump did for a year or so, very early, say 2003/5…include instructions for adjusting the pressure…. But that lead to folks “maladjusting” and having issues.  Later on, maybe 2007 or so, they advised to NOT adjust.

[Martinvz]

We have the original pump on board and it was cycling too frequently for our liking. Several years ago I replaced the diaphragm and it made a big difference. We only use the pump when we are not plugged in to shore power. 
I replaced the barrel restrictor with an adjustable pressure gauge as the water enters the coach. Then last year we added a particulate filter followed by a water softener and a carbon filter. Thus we have max pressure up to the pressure gauge right before the water enters the coach.

[Venturer]

We have always used the onboard water and pump. When at a campground for several days, I use the CG water to refill my fresh tank as needed. So anytime we use water, the water pump has to run. When we leave for the day, I turn the pump off. I've read of people coming back to a flooded coach because of a burst pipe or fitting. It the pump starts up while sitting in the coach, water is going somewhere. If no faucet is open, you have a problem that you can catch before water damage. We also dump the grey and black tanks when needed and disconnect the hose when done. No sewer odor gets into the coach. Everyone has a system that works for them. Find what you feel is best for you. Happy Camping.

[MJ.STIGER]

My water pump sounds like it’s running non stop. But I don’t see any leaks or water any where. 
 

going to try and turn off things on the manifold to see if I might be missing something. But the post about the diaphragm got me thinking of that could be my case? 
 

any good thoughts on troubleshooting?

I can look in the manual but of the top of someone’s head where would Monaco put the pump on an 05 executive?

thanks in advance. Currently 3k into a 5+k trip things going smooth so far small fixes. But the pump thing started at some point and was not sure if I heard it run before. 

[Venturer]

On my 2006 Executive, I open the basement door next to the wet bay. After sliding the tray out the passenger side, I can crawl into the bay from the driver's side.  There is a sliding door that opens into the wet bay behind the water valve bank. The water pump is mounted to the back side of the valve bank partition. The pressure tank was also there, which I just removed. FWIW, to check for a possible leak, I shut the pump off after it has pressurized the system. Then turn the pump back on a couple hours later. All I get is a slight 1/2 to 1 second run from the pump. I'm ok with that. 

Edited April 4 by Venturer

[cbr046]

8 hours ago, MJ.STIGER said:

My water pump sounds like it’s running non stop. But I don’t see any leaks or water any where.

Air in the system will do that.  If so you'll need to purge all lines, including hot water tank.  Just a thought. 

- bob

[MJ.STIGER]

Ok yea i think i recall seeing the pressure tank back in there. Time for this big guy to go Spelunking. LOL

I like the thought of purging the air in the lines too. Any good recommendations on purging the air. I will definitely look into all these options. I am sure its one of them. 

[Tom Cherry]

12 minutes ago, MJ.STIGER said:

Ok yea i think i recall seeing the pressure tank back in there. Time for this big guy to go Spelunking. LOL

I like the thought of purging the air in the lines too. Any good recommendations on purging the air. I will definitely look into all these options. I am sure its one of them. 

Odds are….you may have an accumulator with an internal diaphragm or “bladder” with a leak.  I’d replace it.  Then you just run the pump or city water and eventuality the trapped air will dissipate.  You COULD put a small valve on the inlet to the accumulator….and run a drain hose outside. Then pressurize the system and open the valve occasionally to let out the air….then, close the valve.  Bleed off the pressure….remove the valve…install the bladder….DRIVE ON.

[MJ.STIGER]

This might make more sense to me. I recall we had great pressure before. We have been on city water most or our trip. But now our water pressure does seem a bit weak. If its the accumulator then it should be replaced. Going to dig around to find it see what model and such before i head to town. Might get lucky and find one. 

[Ivan K]

My ruptured expansion tank bladder would not cause the pump to constantly run, just like if it wasn't there. A leaky diverter valve returning water back into the tank would certainly do it and cause lower pressure in the system.

[Benjamin]

1 minute ago, Ivan K said:

My ruptured expansion tank bladder would not cause the pump to constantly run, just like if it wasn't there. A leaky diverter valve returning water back into the tank would certainly do it and cause lower pressure in the system.

Aside from something returning water to the tank, air could cause the pump to run constantly only if the air is in the pump and keeping it from pumping.  That should flush out on it's own in a few seconds with any water use, UNLESS there is an air leak between the tank and pump and the pump is continually sucking a mixture of air and water?  The only other thing I can think of that would keep the pump running constantly with poor pressure is debris getting in the check valves of the pump.  The pumps I've seen are diaphragm pumps that are easy to take the pump off with a half dozen or so screws, then look at the rubber flapper valves for debris or damage. 

[Happycarz]

Don’t forget to look on the inlet side of the pump for the small filter bowl with the mesh screen inside it. The removable bowl sometimes cracks, or just comes loose, sucking air with the water into the water pump causing the pump to run excessively.

 

 

[grizzly]

We have been full time for 7 yrs and we only use water pump when not hooked up to city water or there is power outage and no water. But we also have been at 1 park for a very long time and the water is well water and very good so we don't worry as I take carry of the water system here. Very good water!

[MJ.STIGER]

Ok back on the Hunt. I did turn off the manifold and the pump still sounds as if its running. So i know its not a water leak. I am going to dig a bit deeper on this. I agree its Air getting in somewheres. Just cleaned out the flowjet that feeds the pump. I doe see water moving in the top of the flow jet when i turn on the pump. I am getting closer for sure. 

OK I pulled a Rookie Move. I had my wife help me pack up the last spot we left. And come to find out She did not shut off the fill valve on the other side of the coach in the Wet/Electrical Bay. Cap was on the City fill hose but was sucking air in. 

I turned the valve and the pump stopped. And now i have great water pressure again.  I really need to make a Sticker with Arrows that say what direction that thing needs to be so when i ask for help I can say what position it needs to be left in. LOL 

Problems Solved. All things in working order. I should have checked the simple things first but the Pump is on the passanger side and the fill valve on the other side.