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Here's what the Monacoers have been talking about:
Index
rustykramermetalfab
Discussions
Tom Cherry
Edited title for clarity.
If you read the manual, there are a number of devices, some option, some standard that are 12 VDC powered in the "Entertainment or Informational" center. If this is essential, then using the House Fuse Panel and a Toner on each fuse should easily trace the circuit.
If you determine what it is or what it is for, please advise.
Monaco often dot matrix printed a label on their harnesses. Have you examined the the white wire or exposed enough of it under the video switcher to see if it is labeled?
Newcsn
@Frank McElroy Thanks for your feedback! However, is it possible my Dynasty may be one of those snowflakes? When I turn OFF the step switch the only thing it does is keep the step extended when the coach isn’t running. It will not keep the step retracted. I experimented w/ it both ways.
My solution was to unplug the motor w/ the steps retracted. Then when we got ready to head north I reached under & plugged the steps back in.
And @Tom Cherry, we employ your procedure of keeping the steps extended when we’re parked & don’t have the constructed steps.
Thanks again!
Megame
I used Iron Horse RV in San Antonio a few years ago. New engine radiator, cleaned the CAC, and repaired a few miscellaneous leaks. Great people to work with in my opinion. They've since changed ownership hands, but it appears the quality of work has remained. I would not hesitate to return there.
Tom Cherry
If not used, tires last for 6-10 years, depending on the storage and environmental conditions. Overall, the time limits for stored tires are much the same as for tires that are being used. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) and official manufacturers suggest a tire is only 100% safe to use until it turns 5-6 years old. However, some admit that a tire can be operable up to 10 years if you check it for issues annually after the 5th year.
Rear Camera malfunction...What is the "Monaco" history and are they will in business?
The cameras aren’t really tied into the Aladdin system, they are tied into your monitor, usually a Voyager, the Aladdin just uses a display port on that monitor. What is the problem with your camera?
DennisZ
Twomed
3M 5200 and a 1 inch rivet through 1/4 inch aluminum angle brackets....4 panels 600 watts 12 years...110k miles never garaged...still tight. 😄
Tom Cherry
9 hours ago, timaz996 said:Wow, that is nothing like mine. These coaches are truly snowflakes.
YES.... They do seem to be "unique". However, from spending half of my career in "LINE" manufacturing and having to retool or make revise over 100 stations for a model year change... IT HAPPENS.
If you really want to understand the "construction" of your motorhome, the best resource is to download from Monaco or Holiday Rambler the "Sales Brochure". That discusses, maybe vaguely, the construction of the walls and floor and ceiling.
Almost understand the evolution of manufacturing. As time passed, there were more advances in how to reduce costs. I worked in a boat factory during the summer... We always "laid up" the hull using different layers of fiberglass and also type (Mat, Rovin Wovin and Cloth). The owner went to a show and bought a "CHOPPER GUN". It cut fiberglass strands and spit them out impregnated with resin. One man could, properly trained, do the hull in maybe 3 hours for a small fishing boat compared for maybe a day or so with 2 guys. Structurally, based on testing, the chopper gun method was stronger. THUS....we converted...
I don't pretend to be the expert on many of the "construction" details...but I had to repair a "major dent and void" in the underlayment of my BED slide. Chris Throgmartin was just testing the Guardian plates and had never seen my failure. We talked... I cut a small "hole" and cored the bottom. He consulted with a friend that worked in the Elkhart factory. We both learned about how the floor was laid out in a grid with "perlines" for strength and such... They had, memory of what I was told, a large laminating operation where the sandwich was two layers (top and bottom) and then the grid or perlines randomly spaced and it was then foamed. I THOUGHT that maybe it was a "Vacuum Forming" operation....
That was way different from the early days were the panels were closer to "residential" construction.
YES...one never knows what to expect in any exterior surface.... BUT the true "SNOWFLAKE" is a MH built by Crew A and the one behind it built by Crew B... They are identical...all the "STANDARD RUN" items....exactly the same "Build and MSRP" Sheet... save color. ONE MH will start, with the Chassis Battery Disconnect OFF... The OTHER....NOPE... We have just had a topic that delved into that very subject.
Scotty Hutto
Just a reminder that while we let most discussions run their natural course here on Monacoers, the owners, administrators, and moderators reserve the right to remove or hide any post that goes against site rules, including advice that *might* cause others (particularly newer, less experienced members) to endanger themselves.
This is extremely rare, but when the collective group who run the site have discussed it and agree, we will remove a post. Very rarely will we remove a post based on one person’s opinion (we may hide it until we discuss it as a group); the four of us talk almost daily (some of us more often)
Thank you for your understanding and support on this issue.
Dave Pratt
Scotty Hutto
Frank McElroy
Tom Cherry
Scotty Hutto
The Staff has made a decision to close this thread and the posts which were incorrect or potentially misleading have been removed.
Thanks for your understanding.
rvendramin
No signal from the camera
wamcneil
On 4/29/2024 at 7:51 PM, John C said:The question is I need to find a mounting point for my 1/2" lag bolts to the roof.
The 1/4" plywood and luaun board is not strong enough for my lag bolts
Good grief. 1/2” lag bolts? Are you mounting solar panels???
Or building a deck up there???
Marine Boy
Awesome job to ALL! Thank you for all of your efforts!
saflyer
A recent article in RVTravel.com was about a water check valve that went bad. The issue came to light when the fresh water tank was emptied while driving down the highway when the pump was left on, the valve failed and the water was pumped out the fresh water hose. Their advice is to carry a spare. My questions are do I have that valve and if so where is it located?
Actually, I can’t imagine how the plumbing would be designed to connect the fresh water fill hose to the pump. I’d think they would be very separate.
2005 HR Ambassador
jacwjames
My coach has one that is part of the Swann "City Fill" valve. Mine started to fail, allowing the pump to put water back into the fresh water tank, I didn't loose any water but the pump started to cycle on a very rare frequency!!
Here is the Swan Quick fill valve
Information of potential issues from a failed water check valve.
cbr046
There's a valve on both hot and cold water circuits for dumping / winterizing the lines. If either CW or HW are left open and pump is on it will empty the tank. Not a failure item IMO.
edit - OK, didn't consider higher end coaches. Endeavor / Diplomat are pretty basic.
- bob
jacwjames
Glad you found the wires and didn't damage them. I was thinking there might be the potential as I have a box covering plumbing and wiring in my bathroom. But you came up with an elegant solution, looks good.
From experience it is very hard to match stains, it is more of an art then a science.
Have you already put a clear coat on it? If not you might be able to play with a darker stain to get it to match.
rustykramermetalfab
On 4/28/2024 at 5:30 PM, Dr4Film said:Those buttons on the VIP Smart-wheel never lit up on my previous Windsor and now my Dynasty.
Are you saying your 06 Dynasty is not back lit or they are? Just wondering My 06 Dynasty is.
Tom Cherry
Frank McElroy and I have been "discussing" and such the Blue Seas ML-ACR. This pertained to how "EASY" if might be for a less than "Journeyman Tech" or a seemingly Novice, from electronics and electrical perspective to install.
The main caveat was that there had to be a multi pair (2) wire run or cable between the ML-ACR and the front so that the, included in the retail unit, Boost/Control Switch could be properly installed.
Having to run a separate or additional wire has been a concern....as to the "fun of doing that" by some members.
However, today, based on the discussion that Frank and I have been having, and a long conversation with Blue Seas has prompted this general information post.
Attached is the Blue Seas "Install" instructions.
38061113 (Schematic, Plug, Trailer, 7 Pin).pdf 38060870 M-66 2006 Exec Brake Controller.pdf
David Pratt
11 minutes ago, rustykramermetalfab said:Are you saying your 06 Dynasty is not back lit or they are? Just wondering My 06 Dynasty is.
Have you read my post-Three Posts Back-; I explain in simple terms how to check if you have backlighting available to your Smart Wheel. It was not standard on the Dynasty, only on the Executive, Signature and Navigator. If a Dynasty has the backlighting feature it was an option provided by the Factory when the coach was built or it was added by the dealer or PO.
rustykramermetalfab
1 minute ago, David Pratt said:Have you read my post-Three Posts Back-; I explain in simple terms how to check if you have backlighting available to your Smart Wheel. It was not standard on the Dynasty, only on the Executive, Signature and Navigator. If a Dynasty has the backlighting feature it was an option provided by the Factory when the coach was built or it was added by the dealer or PO.
Got it Dave Thanks.
lotosrggp1
Instead of trying to use small mounts on the roof and adding more places to leak I plan on using Superstruct attached with an appropriate 3M double sided adhesive. Lots of surface area that should never come loose. I plan on using the taller Strut to allow for better airflow to keep the panels as cool as possible. I do tend to overbuild.
wamcneil
On 4/29/2024 at 7:31 PM, John C said:...I don't want to start a debate that the 3M is good enough or not here...
Good luck with that. 🤐
zmotorsports
16 hours ago, MalcolmH said:Mike, I truly hope you are very proud of your accomplishments and the technical knowledge you so openly share!
Your notes and pictures are second to none. Job well done!
You have found your home in Bill D's.
Thank you for your contribution.
Malcolm H
Thank you Malcolm. I very much appreciate the kind words.
DennisZ
All the cameras or just 1?
JeffM31
Well sometimes the brain doesn't consider the obvious. My coach is equipped with satellite prep, so that should be the 12v for the satellite box. There is also a phone cable there.
joefromperry
I'd like to replace the bulbs on the two gooseneck lights, one by each front seat. I can't figure how to get the lens off the lamp without possibly breaking it. I'm probably too careful. Anyone changed out the bulb? Not looking to replace the whole fixture.
Information of potential issues from a failed water check valve.
Dr4Film
Every coach can be plumbed differently.
it is the owners responsibility to research their own coach as to how it is plumbed and wired.
What may be correct for one coach may not necessarily be how it is plumbed or wired in ALL coaches.
That was one of the very FIRST things I did once we got our Dynasty back home from Salt Lake City. As a result I found that the consignment dealership had mis-installed and mis-wired the two GFCI Circuit Breakers in my main power panel. That mistake could have cost us one of our lives! I also found that there was no water check valve on the inlet side of the shore water hose when the water pump is active. I generally have the water pump on ALL the time regardless of whether we are hooked to shore water or not.
Dr4Film
Mine are NOT backlit on my VIP Smart Wheel.
Ivan K
I haven't done it myself yet but you can try this:
Rear Camera malfunction...What is the "Monaco" history and are they will in business?
rvendramin
Primarily the rear camera, the front right hand turn signal camera is intermittent
Kenster
I've purchased a new stackable washer and dryer for my diplomat. The cabinet area across from the shower is prepped from the factory for a washer and dryer. How in the heck do you secure a stackable considering the limited width of that area. Is there some type of floor mounted securing system that can be pre-installed prior to installing the washer and dryer? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Benjamin
Exactly. The plumbing is always connected, there is one pressure water system, that supplies the cold and hot sides that go to the bath and kitchen. The pump comes on, that will flow out the city water connection if it can, the check valve is the only thing keeping the water from running backwards out the city water connection unless there's a manual valve or plug that you use in addition to the check valve. Even IF you bought the RV new, it could be different from the next one on the assembly line.
I purchased a very well used RV from a very meticulous owner, and still find obvious mistakes from the factory that were never identified in 100k miles and who knows how many hundreds or thousands of hours of working on the various systems. Quality control and reliability on RV's are not even in the same universe as cars and most other consumer products these days.
Dean Bennett
I’ve had solar for over 20 years on the same MH (2000 Windsor). Over 2,000 watts worth over the last 10 years. I use #14 x 1” Stainless screws:
Monacoers Website Reminder - Hidden or Deleted posts
Benjamin
Thank you for a well run and helpful site. We could argue forever about different interpretations of advice or rules. I appreciate a transparent "lock" and "editorial notice" when threads have ventured past the comfort zone like that one.
Mark B
Here are some pictures of my original setup before I made some updates. I talked with tmw188 he asked me to post these pictures.
2002 Windsor High Charge Voltage at Startup Anomaly
jacwjames
Thanks for posting Mark.
Does your coach start with the chassis battery disconnect OFF?
So the big changes are that the Lambert 415 has been disabled by removing the red wire and ground AND bottom stud on the Lambert is just being used to connect the coach wire from the Isolation Solenoid to the BIRD with a white wire that is plugged into coach battery spad on the BIRD (which is open in the original setup). Pretty simple work around to eliminate the Lambert and convert the charging system to the new BIRD style charging.
I believe this is the work around that Tom described.
Mark B
13 minutes ago, jacwjames said:Thanks for posting Mark.
Does your coach start with the chassis battery disconnect OFF?
So the big changes are that the Lambert 415 has been disabled by removing the red wire and ground AND bottom stud on the Lambert is just being used to connect the coach wire from the Isolation Solenoid to the BIRD with a white wire that is plugged into coach battery spad on the BIRD (which is open in the original setup). Pretty simple work around to eliminate the Lambert and convert the charging system to the new BIRD style charging.
I believe this is the work around that Tom described.
I have never tried starting the coach with the disconnect off. I have removed the old trickle charge system and added some other equipment as seen in the attached picture
Tom Cherry
WHAT brand is the up front Monitor? I do NOT have an Aladdin...so my REAR backup is displayed on the monitor that was also supplied by same vendor. Monaco use ZONE DEFENSE in the Camelots (2009 and such) as they DROPPED the Aladdin tie in.
There are OTHERS that were used.
NOW....the RIGHT TURN signal, I was TOLD by Zone....who did a LOT of "warranty work" at their shop....some 25 miles South of Tampa....is a COMMON problem.
Their SYSTEM....which they said was a "hodge podge" works like this.
Monaco ran the cables to the FRONT LEFT....then they had to be "mated" or connected at some "JOINT" up and under the front cap. That JOINT was a MONACO install...and NOT a ZONE item. The Joint will fail...as in get water or just sort of shake loose. When the RIGHT camera goes squirrely, Zone would isolate the joint....take apart the connectors and do some "MAGIC" and restore it and all was well.
I have NEVER heard that "story" posted here. BUT, I had to swap out a warranty camera and also have a "extended" warranty power supply fixed on my monitor....both of which cost me ZILCH. Their techs were GREAT. One was Butch (probably dead) but a younger on also. They seemed to be knowledgable...and knew exactly, in THEIR system, where the intermittent occurred and the fix. NOW that MIGHT not be the configuration with all models....but my take and recollection. The LEFT to RIGHT cable connection was built in or was standard in all Monaco's AND regardless of Vendor....it was there. BUT....maybe the cables on mine were too short and required the joint.
Mine does it once and a while...and I shudder...but it is not bad enough to go digging.
You MIGHT find out, by pulling, the camera manufacturer. Then talk to them. ALSO...look at the connections for the REAR camera. Somewhere...I THINK, at least on mine it was the old RED/WHITE/YELLOW cable. The camera had audio and they used that. R/W/Y is called COMPOSITE. If you have an older, smaller TV around the house...it MIGHT have the same inputs. SO, take it out there....you might need a "patch or extension" cable. Hook it up. WORKS.. Camera OK. Doesn't... Cabling or bad camera...
IF you have a source...you can test it. DON'T LAUGH... THERE should be connectors on the camera in the back....I pulled mine out. R/W/Y...
AS to REV.... We are "LEGACY" models in their data base. That means....we have PRINTS....maybe....but our techs don't know squat. There ARE a few parts out there that REV is stocking. Weird stuff as well as common and still in use. Price is usually 5 times that from other vendors. The TRICK... Figure out the CORRECT PN. SOME folks have the ORIGINAL Monaco PN....which is, of all things, buried in the REV data base...so if you call in....sometimes they can find it. We HAVE had members post the REV PN and sure enough...REV will sell it and it is in STOCK...
SO much for a summation of 15 years of HISTORY...
saflyer
2 hours ago, Dr4Film said:Every coach can be plumbed differently.
it is the owners responsibility to research their own coach as to how it is plumbed and wired.
What may be correct for one coach may not necessarily be how it is plumbed or wired in ALL coaches.
That was one of the very FIRST things I did once we got our Dynasty back home from Salt Lake City. As a result I found that the consignment dealership had mis-installed and mis-wired the two GFCI Circuit Breakers in my main power panel. That mistake could have cost us one of our lives! I also found that there was no water check valve on the inlet side of the shore water hose when the water pump is active. I generally have the water pump on ALL the time regardless of whether we are hooked to shore water or not.
OK, I'll keep looking for it but not exactly sure where to look.
Tom Cherry
22 minutes ago, Mark B said:I have never tried starting the coach with the disconnect off. I have removed the old trickle charge system and added some other equipment as seen in the attached picture
OK...for the RECORD... The pictures verify that the Intellitec BIRD Diesel(maybe original...but who knows) is in place. But it is TOTALLY non functional. That means the BIRD SYSTEM or BiDirectional charging has been removed. The RELAY terminal on the Module is the OUTPUT to one of the BOSCH relays pictured. Which ever one....then goes to the BOOST or the White Rodgers Solenoid.
That relay is wired thusly... If you read the previous post with pin numbers, that is explained.
IF the BOOST switch works...then all the OP or whomever did was disable the BIRD. The BIRD output (RELAY Terminal) goes to that Relay. BUT that Relay is also the CONTROL relay for the White Rodgers.
AS USUAL....interesting. NOTE that the Generator Terminal is used. Todd's is NOT.
FWIW,
I sent Todd a sheet so he can measure voltages. We, Frank and myself, need this so we can help others. That will answer the questions.
MY INTERPRETATION....from your comments. The ORIGINAL Windsor did NOT have a "Trickle" charger. It had a THIEF system. That was a device that bled power off the House (assuming there was AC power) and then charged the Chassis Battery. On the OEM Windsor circuit....that function was NOT available... I can't remember the device's brand name...but Amp - L - Start or such are out there and being used... As long as there is POWER and the House is being Charged...then it will siphon off and charge the Chassis. There is a PCB and a few Diodes to keep it from stealing power and draining the House.
Your Orion-Tr-Smart is a variation of that....if I read correctly. I am ASSUMING that you have it wired so that the Alternator puts out a signal or is used for POWER. Then you can add the House and you will get or siphon off charging current for the Chassis...
There appears to be many configurations or uses. Is that how you are using it.
Most folks, when the hear or read "Trickle" charger on the site think... an AC powered, low output (usually 2 or so amps) charger that will maintain the Chassis and NOT overcharge it or damage it.
Could you elaborate on how you have it configured and what it does or is intended to do....
We all learn....
Thanks...
joefromperry
2 hours ago, Ivan K said:I haven't done it myself yet but you can try this:
Thank you, Ivan. That's exactly what I need.
DennisZ
The cameras and monitor are all Voyager, I had to replace my rear camera several years ago, it has a tilt feature, so it’s a different connector than is used now. My monitor is having issues, but I’ll keep it until it dies all the way, there isn’t a feature by feature replacement available, no tilt.
From what I can see by looking at a 2007 Knight brochure, it looks like you have a different monitor, probably works the same, but not sure.
Mark B
Just now, Tom Cherry said:OK...for the RECORD... The pictures verify that the Intellitec BIRD Diesel(maybe original...but who knows) is in place. But it is TOTALLY non functional. That means the BIRD SYSTEM or BiDirectional charging has been removed. The RELAY terminal on the Module is the OUTPUT to one of the BOSCH relays pictured. Which ever one....then goes to the BOOST or the White Rodgers Solenoid.
That relay is wired thusly... If you read the previous post with pin numbers, that is explained.
IF the BOOST switch works...then all the OP or whomever did was disable the BIRD. The BIRD output (RELAY Terminal) goes to that Relay. BUT that Relay is also the CONTROL relay for the White Rodgers.
AS USUAL....interesting. NOTE that the Generator Terminal is used. Todd's is NOT.
FWIW,
I sent Todd a sheet so he can measure voltages. We, Frank and myself, need this so we can help others. That will answer the questions.
MY INTERPRETATION....from your comments. The ORIGINAL Windsor did NOT have a "Trickle" charger. It had a THIEF system. That was a device that bled power off the House (assuming there was AC power) and then charged the Chassis Battery. On the OEM Windsor circuit....that function was NOT available... I can't remember the device's brand name...but Amp - L - Start or such are out there and being used... As long as there is POWER and the House is being Charged...then it will siphon off and charge the Chassis. There is a PCB and a few Diodes to keep it from stealing power and draining the House.
Your Orion-Tr-Smart is a variation of that....if I read correctly. I am ASSUMING that you have it wired so that the Alternator puts out a signal or is used for POWER. Then you can add the House and you will get or siphon off charging current for the Chassis...
There appears to be many configurations or uses. Is that how you are using it.
Most folks, when the hear or read "Trickle" charger on the site think... an AC powered, low output (usually 2 or so amps) charger that will maintain the Chassis and NOT overcharge it or damage it.
Could you elaborate on how you have it configured and what it does or is intended to do....
We all learn....
Thanks...
So in my case Tom, I kept the "Boost" connection to the relay between the house and Chassis batteries. I'm not sure if my BIRD was set up as a bidirectional relay from the start or it was not working. So here is what I have: The House batteries are charged from my inverter charger when plugged into shore power. The coach battery is charged by the AMP-L-Start (DC to DC charger) as you say stealing power from the coach battery. I have lithium coach batteries and the AMP-L-Start has a dip switch for that configuration. However, I have found that the AMP-L-Start can sometimes be unreliable so I added a NOCO 3 amp charger that is plugged into my block heater receptacle in the engine compartment and I can turn it on and off from the switch up front. It will still charge when I'm on the inverter so I don't want that. The NOCO is connected to the coach battery. The Orion (DC to DC charger) is connected to the circuit coming from the alternator and limits the current draw to 30 amps for charging the house battery bank.
My system has been solid since I added the NOCO charger. I thought I might have had some circular charging between the two battery banks but I don't think that was the case in the end.
So basically I can charge both my batteries from multiple sources depending on whether I'm plugged in or not. I also have 700 watts of solar on my roof as well.
timaz996
This is what mine looks like.
Information of potential issues from a failed water check valve.
Tom Cherry
23 minutes ago, saflyer said:OK, I'll keep looking for it but not exactly sure where to look.
OK... using your cell phone UNDER the panel where the FILL VALVE is...so you can see behind....Shoot a Picture. Otherwise, a WISE investment (less than $30 ) is a SPY CAM with a 6 ft semi rigid probe. I changed out a heater fan in my GS's GF's Ford Escape last night. Had watched the YouTube and pulling apart plastic panels and such on a car is something that I will do...carefully and have experience on maybe 10 different cars over the years.
I had to use my camera to see WHERE the hidden one (in the rear and up) was and then guided my Torx bit into the recess.
If you had one of this....ODDS ARE...your Check Valve is attached to the City Fill Valve. That is how MOST Monaco's or at least the ones that I have read about or seen or such have. The system is simple. A standard Fill Valve is just a TWO WAY valve. Monaco attached a Check to the side of it. There was a guy out west that had cornered the market and bought up the OEM valves and the OEM Checks. Probably $30 total. He SOLD the completed OEM Monaco assembly for $85 or so. I passed.
He may STILL be out there or is listed on some OTHER forums.... not here, I think.
SO, do some detective work. Have you read the WATER section (6 or so...memory) in the manual. It usually has details. SOME manuals actually have a schematic at the end.
Your Manual, Research and Google will usually, in that order, solve 75% of the questions here.... Past that....then tap into the knowledge base here...
Let us know what you find during the "Exploratory" phase....
rvendramin
I have a voyager it replaced the old voyager that crapped out. The new voyager is a plug and play.
96 EVO
Stopped travelling with the water pump on many years ago after reading a thread on IRV.
Owner of a brand spanking new, top of the line Tiffin, on it's maiden voyage! Owner didn't know anything was wrong till his first stop, a wave of about 50gal of fresh water rushed to the front of the coach 😮!
Michael Powell
Does anybody have a better replacement option???
Tom Cherry
1 minute ago, 96 EVO said:Stopped travelling with the water pump on many years ago after reading a thread on IRV.
Owner of a brand spanking new, top of the line Tiffin, on it's maiden voyage! Owner didn't know anything was wrong till his first stop, a wave of about 50gal of fresh water rushed to the front of the coach 😮!
That's a BIG 10-4, BUDDY.
Never leave on the water pump whilst driving. Turn on and off if someone is cooking or needs to wash their hands when MH is moving. Just chiming in and PILING ON to a good piece of advice...
Tom Cherry
5 minutes ago, Michael Powell said:Does anybody have a better replacement option???
Not exactly SURE what you mean by REPLACEMENT OPTION. Some folk would "kill" to have them installed. You know, I presume, that you can switch to LED, even higher output if desired. We don't have a LOT of posts or issues where the fixture or such breaks....or if so, very infrequently.
There are many OPTIONS for adding a reading light....but if there is NOT Power and the switch is inconvenient....BUMMER. The most common approach is to add one above. NOW, that depends if it is Passenger or Driver and whether or not there is an overhead compartment with a lower bottom.... easy to add a battery powered LED....maybe not high tech or "smart phone controlled" but more than adequate for the intended use.
Amazon and CW have many options. check them out... Amazon... RV interior light or "flex" or gooseneck might be added.
jacwjames
1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:OK...for the RECORD... The pictures verify that the Intellitec BIRD Diesel(maybe original...but who knows) is in place. But it is TOTALLY non functional. That means the BIRD SYSTEM or BiDirectional charging has been removed. The RELAY terminal on the Module is the OUTPUT to one of the BOSCH relays pictured. Which ever one....then goes to the BOOST or the White Rodgers Solenoid.
That relay is wired thusly... If you read the previous post with pin numbers, that is explained.
IF the BOOST switch works...then all the OP or whomever did was disable the BIRD. The BIRD output (RELAY Terminal) goes to that Relay. BUT that Relay is also the CONTROL relay for the White Rodgers.
AS USUAL....interesting. NOTE that the Generator Terminal is used. Todd's is NOT.
FWIW,
I sent Todd a sheet so he can measure voltages. We, Frank and myself, need this so we can help others. That will answer the questions.
MY INTERPRETATION....from your comments. The ORIGINAL Windsor did NOT have a "Trickle" charger. It had a THIEF system. That was a device that bled power off the House (assuming there was AC power) and then charged the Chassis Battery. On the OEM Windsor circuit....that function was NOT available... I can't remember the device's brand name...but Amp - L - Start or such are out there and being used... As long as there is POWER and the House is being Charged...then it will siphon off and charge the Chassis. There is a PCB and a few Diodes to keep it from stealing power and draining the House.
Your Orion-Tr-Smart is a variation of that....if I read correctly. I am ASSUMING that you have it wired so that the Alternator puts out a signal or is used for POWER. Then you can add the House and you will get or siphon off charging current for the Chassis...
There appears to be many configurations or uses. Is that how you are using it.
Most folks, when the hear or read "Trickle" charger on the site think... an AC powered, low output (usually 2 or so amps) charger that will maintain the Chassis and NOT overcharge it or damage it.
Could you elaborate on how you have it configured and what it does or is intended to do....
We all learn....
Thanks...
Go back and look at Mark's first post with pictures, it shows the BIRD & Lambert maintainer. This is what I was looking at when I made the comments and then comparing to the photos that Todd posted.
Mark's second post shows the modes he's done to include the solar charger and the trickle charger.
hex_nut
My 1/4 inch ball valves that drain my air tanks are leaking (I have 4 of them). Some time back in one of the discussions about air leaks, someone posted a picture and description of quality replacements for these ball valves. I have searched the forum but have not been able to find the reference. I think it was Scotty that posted the picture. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Thanks
Richard
John C
6 hours ago, wamcneil said:Good grief. 1/2” lag bolts? Are you mounting solar panels???
Or building a deck up there???
I thought it was 1/2", just looked at again, I believe it is 3/8", that is how I did it on my previous coach.
Maybe a little overkill...
Install bedroom door
John C
5 hours ago, jacwjames said:Glad you found the wires and didn't damage them. I was thinking there might be the potential as I have a box covering plumbing and wiring in my bathroom. But you came up with an elegant solution, looks good.
From experience it is very hard to match stains, it is more of an art then a science.
Have you already put a clear coat on it? If not you might be able to play with a darker stain to get it to match.
I have not applied seal yet!
I thought once you stain it you can't stain again because the wood is already saturated with stain, just Googled, and found out that if you apply pre-stain conditioner on top of the stain, it does let you do that.
Thank you!
TomV48
My question IS,,,,, where can I get those IDENTICAL, connectors? They ARE everywhere, double, triple, quad, and more. I have a couple of places I could tap in to for work I want to do, IF I COULD find a directly compatible connector. I have become tired of using work arounds.
Ivan K
Do you have to go under to drain the tanks or are they positioned remotely or are you looking for some with the pull line. One day, when I also need to replace, I would consider the remote drain of some kind which I don't have right now, so I'll be watching for recommendations too.
TomV48
19 hours ago, Chargerman said:Considering the year of your coach, they won’t be much help for you. What is the issue you are looking for information on?
Well, I have had great luck getting info from REV. Our coach is a 2005 Ambassador and they have been able to give me paint codes, build sheet including serial numbers, parts cross references.
They have been surprisingly helpful. Considering that I expected to be treated like an unwanted stepchild, they have been amazing.
hex_nut
Ivan
Mine are plumbed remote. They are like the bottom 2 in this picture I borrowed from Bart.
jacwjames
Did you apply a water based stain?
Did you have to trim the door at all before you installed. If you have a scrap piece already stained play with it to try and get close to the correct color.
What is the wood you have in the coach now>>> Cherry????
John C
12 minutes ago, jacwjames said:Did you apply a water based stain?
Did you have to trim the door at all before you installed. If you have a scrap piece already stained play with it to try and get close to the correct color.
What is the wood you have in the coach now>>> Cherry????
I applied oil base wood conditioner and oil stain.
Unfortunately the door is pine. That is probably one of the reasons why the color doesn't match.
I will leave door and a piece of molding(from the coach) there at the paint shop and I already sand one big area on the door.
I will ask the paint shop and ask them to apply some matched stain on the door to check the color .
Dr4Film
3 hours ago, saflyer said:OK, I'll keep looking for it but not exactly sure where to look.
Or, you may be looking for something that you don't even have in your coach.
Paul J A
Contact how to mount solar panel brakcets with screws/lag bolts
wamcneil
2 hours ago, John C said:I thought it was 1/2", just looked at again, I believe it is 3/8", that is how I did it on my previous coach.
Maybe a little overkill...
A 'little' overkill??? Overkill, btw is my 2nd favorite kind of kill.
Take a look at what's holding the ladder to the fiberglass skin on the outside of the coach...
Somehow that ladder will safely support a big ol' RVer that eats a lot of fried food.
The solar array just barely needs to be held down. Especially if it's got 50lb of uni-strut underneath it.
Something like this rooftop deck? Sure... 3/8 bolts in the metal structure would be good:
Gerry f
Jim,
The load resistors are NOT connected to the parking lights. They should be connected to the turn signal bulb wire and the other side to ground. They provide the additional load that the flasher needs to operate. The LED's take so little current that the flasher may not work properly without the additional load that the resistor provides. Again, the load resistor is NOT for the parking lights but for the turn signal bulbs (LEDs). One of the right and one for the left signal.
I would NOT attach them to anything thing that could be damaged from the heat of the resistors. Attaching them to a steel frame would probably be okay as long as the metal hose clamps will not move and accidently short out the voltage side of the resistor to ground. That would cause the turn signal fuse to blow.
Gerry Faulkner
2007 Monaco Executive
Ivan K
Good for you, Richard. These are the same 'Bendix drain valves' as on ours, except for the location. Don't know what they were smoking when they say to drain daily while installing them directly on the tank...
JeffM31
1 hour ago, TomV48 said:My question IS,,,,, where can I get those IDENTICAL, connectors? They ARE everywhere, double, triple, quad, and more. I have a couple of places I could tap in to for work I want to do, IF I COULD find a directly compatible connector. I have become tired of using work arounds.
I saved this a while back. Try Digikey maybe maybe not
- 2 pin straight: conn 480698-0, term 350536-1
- 3 pin straight: conn 1-480701-0, term 350536-1
- 4 pin straight: conn 1-480702-0, term 350218-1
- 2x3 rectangular: conn 1-480705-0, term 350536-1
-
3x5 rectangular: conn 1-480711-0, term 350536-1
Tom Cherry
3 hours ago, Mark B said:So in my case Tom, I kept the "Boost" connection to the relay between the house and Chassis batteries. I'm not sure if my BIRD was set up as a bidirectional relay from the start or it was not working. So here is what I have: The House batteries are charged from my inverter charger when plugged into shore power. The coach battery is charged by the AMP-L-Start (DC to DC charger) as you say stealing power from the coach battery. I have lithium coach batteries and the AMP-L-Start has a dip switch for that configuration. However, I have found that the AMP-L-Start can sometimes be unreliable so I added a NOCO 3 amp charger that is plugged into my block heater receptacle in the engine compartment and I can turn it on and off from the switch up front. It will still charge when I'm on the inverter so I don't want that. The NOCO is connected to the coach battery. The Orion (DC to DC charger) is connected to the circuit coming from the alternator and limits the current draw to 30 amps for charging the house battery bank.
My system has been solid since I added the NOCO charger. I thought I might have had some circular charging between the two battery banks but I don't think that was the case in the end.
So basically I can charge both my batteries from multiple sources depending on whether I'm plugged in or not. I also have 700 watts of solar on my roof as well.
Cool. Well stated. Functional for you and you know the caveats.
As to the question. If you look at the prints or follow the circuits, the OEM BIRD system was SORT if a BiDirectional….and could if you wanted, be reconfigured easily again since it doesn’t look “gutted”. The system worked thusly.
On Shore….the Chassis was NOT charged. They had a “thief” in there. Now, others will differ….and I don’t know the reliability of every one of the knock offs. They all work the same,…but, as you said….some have issues. So that is my take and reliability, plus not particularly liking the “thief” is a pet peeve.
OK…driving DOWN the highway, IF you reconnected the solenoid or “Relay” wire back to the Bosch Relay, which is also the same relay that powers your boost, you would charge the House Bank.
I am currently working with Todd to determine how his BIRD module works….as I THINK that Intellitec updated it, in subsequent versions, so that is works like mine. Mine is a TRUE BIRD. BUT….Will the White Rogers solenoid function with a 3 VDC Pulsed signal. THAT is the real issue. IF NOT….then it probably makes more sense, assuming you or Todd did want the robust BIRD charging to install the ML-ACR. Cost wise….the same or less that the combined outlay of the latest version of the BIRD module and the Intellitec Big Boy that is designed to work with it,
Again…thanks,,,
2 hours ago, jacwjames said:Go back and look at Mark's first post with pictures, it shows the BIRD & Lambert maintainer. This is what I was looking at when I made the comments and then comparing to the photos that Todd posted.
Mark's second post shows the modes he's done to include the solar charger and the trickle charger.
YES….I was doing that when you posted. My comments are there and the information is helpful….and I understand the system…..as I did early on. Todd’s works….or we are testing.
Mark”s could be restored….should he desire.
jacwjames
On some coaches they mounted the valve behind the white panel in the wet bay, other times they mounted it on the outside. And or they could have used a standard water valve and just put a check valve in the line between the fitting you attach your water hose to and the valve.
In my case the valve is mounted on the outside of the white panel, but to be able work on it I removed. They put finger nuts on the water lines behind the panel so I could reach up behind and unscrew the two finger nuts. I then was able to put the valve in a vise to hold it so I could replace the check valve, which on the left side of the valve.
Information of potential issues from a failed water check valve.
Tom Cherry
1 minute ago, jacwjames said:On some coaches they mounted the valve behind the white panel in the wet bay, other times they mounted it on the outside. And or they could have used a standard water valve and just put a check valve in the line between the fitting you attach your water hose to and the valve.
In my case the valve is mounted on the outside of the white panel, but to be able work on it I removed. They put finger nuts on the water lines behind the panel so I could reach up behind and unscrew the two finger nuts. I then was able to put the valve in a vise to hold it so I could replace the check valve, which on the left side of the valve.
Sometimes you ought to thank whatever power or such that you respect, for the charmed life of having easy access to the “USUAL” Monaco madness. Too many here, based on reading posts for 15 years are in my boat. My “white” panel was put in my an 800 pound trained mammal. It has to be warped with the strength of an “ATLAS”. Most folks that have issues must pull it out. But even after removing all the peripherals, then it has to be bent and wedged in.
I know maybe 5 or so Camelot owners…..one or two finally got a weight lifter or such to bend it….and the others split it with a saw and then reconnected with s plastic or aluminum strap or plate.
I used my phone (technically in today’s vernacular “up skirt” and saw the whole mess. One of these days, I’ll use my probe or spy cam and video it. Ease pr access and Serviceability are not terms to be used.
That is why, I adamantly use a washing machine screen filter and flush my hose and the faucet prior to hookup…
Just Jim
Thanks Gerry,
The resisters were built into the new housing/LEDs that I bought... nothing to install or wire up other than mounting them somewhere. I also had a suggestion of using a steel zip tie to mount them. The lights are all in one, parking lights, turn signal and brake. The only one not included is the back up light and its a different socket. So, that is why I was wondering about what actually causes the heat to be generated as just the parking lights didn't do anything. The brakes and turn signals work fine, but can't see them causing a lot of heat unless you were stuck in traffic and on the brakes a lot.
Benjamin
If I had to guess, that's a 3/8" hex head with a 3/16" thread. If that's 3/8" threads, then the hex is 3/4"??? I'd agree that is the appropriate fastener for a metal framed roof if that's what you have (not the 3/4" hex head, the smaller size that I think it is)
tmw188
Thanks Mark for getting those pics posted of your setup before you changed things, it will help Tom decipher whether my setup has been modified and how it works. I have some readings I need to take for Tom to help with his homework behind the scenes.
Georgia Mike
I always put a cap on the end of my fresh water power reel hose end. If the check valve fails it won’t empty your tank when your driving down the road.
Radio dash board
2003 Dynasty
I replaced mine on my 2003 Dynasty. The guys at Elite Repair and Remodel in Harrisburg OR has a source for a great replacement (also the full instrument cluster panel), but I don't recall who it was.
BTW great shop, those guys worked at the Monaco factory until it was moved to Indiana. They know these coaches incredibly well. I drove there from TX to have a lot of repairs/upgrades done and it was the best idea I have had for my coach.
dereeves
I see this is an old topic...but after spending 2 hours changing the passenger side headlight unit out...i can think of about a thousand ways Monaco could have made that a little easier...they have rigging sheet metal to hold the rigging in place. No access to some of the 4 main screws holding the assembly in, if you raise the headlight all the way up with the adjustment screw, you can tighten the inside bottom screw. Took me a few mins to figure that one out. Now to complicate things...the drivers side has about 10 miles of wiring all hanging right in the back of the unit, should add some more pleasure to swapping that one out...i need a beer.
Bobkat11208
Sorry just getting back home and real internet . lol. I’m leaving tomorrow for the Ramblin Pushers rally and if no one takes them, I’ll reach back out and we can make arrangements for you to arrange pickup via whatever service you want to use. I can let you know either way. Thanks for reaching out.
martinsimba
My new to me 07 Safari Simba has always been temperature controlled. Unfortunately, it will no longer be kept indoors. Therefore, I would like to know:
1. If I can just use Damprid in the Pennsylvania summer humidity to control the moisture?
2. If I run a dehumidifier, can I use an extension cord to run 140 feet from a 15 amp outlet in my home ?
3. What gauge does the cord have to be to run 140 feet?
Appreciate your input! Thank you in advance.
tmw188
That’s an extremely long run and longer than any run in a typical house. If you look on the tag for the amps you can get online and look for a voltage drop chart like this. IMO the cost of the wire would be expensive and one dehumidifier may not be enough and then you have the electric bill for that running a lot. A few Damp Rids should do the job.
Drivers side front slide creeps out traveling
Jim Dinwiddie
I did a search and found plenty on slides not staying in at the top but mine creeps out at the bottom. Since the top stays put I'm assuming the lock mechanism is working, what is supposed to keep the bottom in?
Tom Cherry
40 minutes ago, martinsimba said:My new to me 07 Safari Simba has always been temperature controlled. Unfortunately, it will no longer be kept indoors. Therefore, I would like to know:
1. If I can just use Damprid in the Pennsylvania summer humidity to control the moisture?
2. If I run a dehumidifier, can I use an extension cord to run 140 feet from a 15 amp outlet in my home ?
3. What gauge does the cord have to be to run 140 feet?
Appreciate your input! Thank you in advance.
simple. You need a THREE (3) conductor #1 AWG cable. You can buy it locally at some Big Boxes. It is called "SERVICE ENTRANCE CABLE" Rated for the run and also weather resistant. Here is a typical way to order online.
Drivers side front slide creeps out traveling
Chargerman
Usually when a slide creeps it means a solenoid valve is not fully closing therefor it is not holding pressure to keep the slide in place. The first thing I would try is to close the slide and hold the button depressed for a few seconds or so to hopefully dislodge any particulate matter that may keeping the valve from fully seating. Try this a couple times to see if that takes care of it. If not I would replace the valve
96 EVO
I'll give you my short answer...... YES!
Most of the year, I run a 50qt household dehumidifier in my coach. When the compressor kicks in, it draws about 7amps.
Jdw12345
These are the type that are on a number of heavy duty trucks, then you have a remote cable to drain, fwiw.
Need to replace air tank drains
96 EVO
5 hours ago, hex_nut said:Ivan
Mine are plumbed remote. They are like the bottom 2 in this picture I borrowed from Bart.
Same as mine!
I'm surprised those would leak! Are you always turning them CCW?
TomV48
On 4/24/2024 at 4:29 AM, Flyinhy said:I'm about to retire my sierra as my toad and I'm considering a 2014 Honda crv. I'm sure this has been asked a thousand times but I wanted to hear from someone who actually has one. It's a front wheel drive car. I read the owners manual and it says it can be flat towed but I wanted to make sure from someone who has one. I was under the impression that it had to be the AWD version.
I love towing my sierra but I'd rather use it only on certain trips. The crv would be my daily commuter for work.
Well I bought my 2013 used to have as a TOAD. Then heard that 2014 is also towable. We have to have the rear camera to even know it is back there. I follow instructions and have my Tranny service done about twice as often and I run through the whole RITUAL of warming it up a bit then running it through the gears per the owner manual every day before we take off. I have to remind myself that it now has about 29000 more miles on the chassis as on the Odometer but it had been PERFECT. Knock on wood!!!
jacwjames
I'd suggest checking your voltage at the outlet before you do anything. This could help and/or hurt your cause.
I have a Progressive surge protector. While I was building my house and plugged into the temp pole and saw low voltage fault, thought it might be an anomaly. After got the house wiring done and hooked up permanently I noticed the same thing so started checking voltage and sure enough, it was low dropping to ~110 volts and sometimes less. Not good. Sent an email to the utility company and about 2 weeks later got a call from one of their engineers, he said they checked into it and sure enough, the taps at the transformer weren't adjusted correctly so they were supplying low voltage to the whole neighborhood. He thanked me for reporting it. Now our voltage is +120V-123V. So it does make a difference.
Benjamin
I'd try it with the thickest cords you have, I bet it works fine. You might consider trenching in a 12/2 or 12/3 UF to a pedestal to keep the rig plugged in if this is going to be a permanent parking place.
I'm not a fan of damprid for the quantity of moisture you want to remove. Plus you have the air movement and heating you get from the dehumidifier. And the risk of spilling salt brine with damprid (calcium chloride).
Rodger
I assume around 10 amps or less for the dehumidifier. Run no smaller than a #12. A #10 would be better but those are expensive cords. Loss is less than 5%.
Frank McElroy
It's been a few months, so I thought I would post another update.
Since the original project of bringing Brett's old coach, now owned by Jim, back to life, I've repaired Eaton dash switch modules on 7 other coaches. Some were one off slave module failures and others were master and sometimes multiple slave module failures. Once repaired, the owners were obviously thrilled to see their system come back to life.
But why are these switch modules failing?
Sure, if struck by lightning electronic components can and do fail. However, the root cause in almost all other cases is that the house batteries were allowed to slowly drain below 4 VDC. So you say, how can that happen? Well many times it's because the coach was at a service center, not plugged in and the house battery disconnect switch was left ON. Or, the coach was plugged into shore power and the house batteries slowly went dead because they weren't being charged and the owner never noticed. (On a Kongsberg chassis multiplex coach, dash switch modules are powered by the house - not the chassis batteries.)
For all owners of Kongsberg chassis multiplex systems - it's absolutely critical that the house batteries never be allowed to go dead. If the dash switch modules are between 0-4 VDC for more than 5 minutes, the Master or Slave modules likely will be damaged.
Bill R
10 hours ago, jacwjames said:
On some coaches they mounted the valve behind the white panel in the wet bay, other times they mounted it on the outside. And or they could have used a standard water valve and just put a check valve in the line between the fitting you attach your water hose to and the valve.
I installed a 1/4 turn ball valve in between the fresh water hook up and 3-way valve. Easy to access and I keep it closed if I am not hooked up to shore power. Just an option if it does not already exist.
Bill R
13 hours ago, Michael Powell said:Does anybody have a better replacement option???
Installed these and really like them. USB power port too.
Frank McElroy
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