Roadmaster S-Series Suspension Air Spring/Air Bag Replacement

[zmotorsports]

So with the influx of posts I've been seeing lately pertaining to air bags/ air springs I thought I'd try this here to see if it helps any Monacoer's.org forum members.  I'm not gonna lie, a few years ago between the Facebook page and more recently the crap I received on irv2.com, I had deleted most of my posts pertaining to this procedure.  I deleted the video I had made as well but recently was reminded me of the procedure I documented on another forum so this is more or less a cut and paste from spring 2021 when I replaced all ten air springs under our 2003 Monaco Dynasty.

 

I had originally posted this on the Monaco Facebook page a few years ago but was so horribly ridiculed over my process from the idiots over there not knowing what they were talking about, I ended up removing my posts and deleting the video from my YouTube channel.  So I’m going to try this here as I think most are more tool and shop minded than the idiots on Facebook and maybe I won’t get verbally abused like I did on Facebook.
 

Let me try again......

The air spring replacement is not a difficult task and there’s no need to cut holes in the sides of the coach like I’ve seen some do and even recommend.  I also feel this is much easier and faster process than "cribbing" the suspension.

Most I've seen perform this repair are using blocks or “cribbing” placed between the coach’s frame rails and the suspension’s H-frame then lifting and supporting the axle as normal. Once the air springs (air bags) are unbolted you then must fight to compress the air bags enough to get the upper and lower studs out of the holes in the upper and lower mounting brackets. This works perfectly other than the efforts needed to compress the old then the new air bags for removal and installation.

 

 

I chose to go a different route with my replacement. I used my tall 22-ton jackstands with the weight of the coach sitting straight down on them. Before beginning I raised the coach as high as I could with the coach’s air system and placed the jackstands just above the steer axle with positive engagement with the chassis.

Now this allowed me to only need a smaller 3-ton floor jack to raise and lower the front suspension. I raised one side slightly and removed a steer tire/wheel. Now I can sit up under the coach and have access to the air bags. I removed the mudflap and hulla skirt material that protects each air bag for better access but that only requires removal of a few tech screws on each.

Now I could reach around the H-frame and air bag to each of the fasteners and the 90-degree air fitting. I removed the air line, then the air fitting, then the 3/4” NPT to 1/4” NPT adapter and lastly grabbed my 1/2” drive fine tooth ratchet and 3/4” socket to break the two upper nuts loose (I hit them with some Aerokroil just before starting). Once the nuts were broken loose j could use my Snap-on FAR72 high torque 3/8” air ratchet to zip the nuts off the top of the air bags. I was able to do this on all but two upper buts where I had to use a ratcheting wrench due to gussets being in the way. The lower bolts were easily accessed with a 1/2” impact gun and 3/4” socket in which were easily zipped off in no time.

Once the fittings and upper & lower nuts were removed came the easy part. I simply and slowly lowered the 3-ton floor jack and the suspension pulled away from the chassis allowing the air bag to sit there with plenty of space to reach in and lift the old one out and set the new one in place. Then raised the floor jack and made sure the studs properly engaged with the holes and reassemble the nuts and air fittings then move on to the next. Easy peezy.

Now for the pictures depicting the process.

Mudflap and hulla skirt (brush) removed for better access to the old air bag.

Using 1/2” fine tooth ratchet with about a 16" long cheater on it.

Here you can see a slight gap at the top of the air bag as it fell away during fastener removal.

Lowered the suspension down and the air bag is completely free from the upper bracket.

Now simply lift the air bag out.

They were due for replacement. I’ve been keeping an eye on the previous couple of years. They started as just weather cracking a couple of years prior but then a year before I noticed some advanced deterioration on the lower roll and by the end of last year’s travel season there were small pieces of rubber flaking off. None had developed leaks yet and I’m sure they could have gone a bit longer as I’ve seen worse still in service but I’m a big proponent of replacing things prior to failure. I figured this would be much more problematic of a repair out on the road and ruin a vacation so I opted to replace them prior to this year’s travel season.

New one ready to install the reducer and apply anti-seize to the studs prior to installation.

New air bag easily slid into place.

Raised the suspension up using my small 3-ton automotive floor jack.  This is the part that confused people.  I was ONLY using the 3-ton floor jack to raise up the axle and H-frame assembly to meet the air springs and chassis.  People on the Monaco Facebook page commented about how unsafe I was trying to lift the coach with "only a 3-ton floorjack".  They were too stupid to even make sense of what they were saying as they were typing it.  There is no way I would be lifting the 40k pound coach with a 3-ton floor jack.  Nor did they read what I had specifically laid out on the coach's weight being supported by four 22-ton jack stands and only using the 3-ton jack for raising and lowering the suspension.  

 

In the picture you can see the bases of the 22-ton jackstands (red bases) just behind the axle.  These are up to the main framerails supporting the coach's weight.

Air bag fully engaged in the upper and lower mounting brackets and ready to install the nuts and tighten in place.

That air bag replaced and shock reinstalled. Ready to reinstall the hulla skirt and mudflap then move on the next air bag.

Next air bag showing the hulla skirt before removal.

Driver’s side front of steer tire didn’t require shock removal. The easiest air bag to replace.

Old air bag removed.

Moved around to the passenger’s side. This one on passenger’s side in front of the steer tire was the most difficult due to several large wire looms/bundles complicating access but just took a few minutes longer.

Passenger’s side just behind steer tire replaced.

Ready to reinstall passenger’s side mudflap and hulla skirt then tire & wheel and the front is complete.

Forty percent of the air bags completed.

Rear still to go.

I reinstalled the hulla skirt and mudflap on the driver’s side.

Then reinstalled the driver’s steer tire and torqued to 450 ft/lbs before wiping it down with some 3M Final Inspection.

Now I can move on to the rear suspension.

 

The rears were easier than the front ones. I got all four replaced in about three hours. All that is left are the two for the tag axle. I’m 80% done with the air bag replacement project.

Removal of the drive tires/wheels make access easy.

 

 

 

Rear air bags were slightly worse than the fronts as far as condition.

 

Air bag replaced and shock bolted back in place.

Drive axle rear air bag was the easiest of any of them to access. Didn’t need to remove the tag tire & wheel but having the drive axle tires/wheels removed made it a breeze to replace.

Zipped the 3/4" nuts off with my Snap-on FAR72 3/8” air ratchet.

 

 

After reinstalling the passenger side drive tires & wheels I moved on to the driver’s side. The rear driver’s side drive axle bag appears to have been struck by something and even did damage all the way to the cords. I noticed this the previous fall and this was the one I was most concerned about.

 

 

Only two remaining.

The tag axle ones were definitely the hardest due to limited access.

I’m not the smallest person but I think even a 5’6” 150lb. guy would struggle to fit up in between the transmission and the control arms (suspension) to reach those two air springs which are the only two mounted inboard of the frame rails.

First, I removed the tag tires/wheels using my IR2235 1/2” impact gun.

33mm impact socket.

Long prybar to walk the tire/wheel outward off the hub.

Once off the hub walk the tire out of the wheelwell.

Removed the tag axle lower control arm at the axle pivot.

Remove at the chassis pivot.

By having the lower control arm out of the way I could sit up between the transmission and the tag axle to reach around the tag air springs and remove all of the fasteners.  What made these more problematic was the fact that they were mounted inboard of the framerails and were less easily accessed.

And just like that, all ten air springs were replaced.

 

 

 

 

I hope this is informative for anyone wanting to take on this task themselves, or at least now you know what is involved if you take it to a shop.  Although I'm not sure they'd use my method or not.

 

In closing thoughts, I'd like to share a few things I learned while performing this task on our Monaco/Roadmaster S-Series chassis.

First, if at all possible, support the coach by the chassis rails. This will allow the ability to raise and lower the H-frame suspension members allowing easy air bag removal and insertion without having to fight compressing the old nor the new air bags to fit into place between the mounting brackets.

Secondly, the brass reducers that Monaco/Roadmaster used have a 1-1/8" hex and are only slightly oversized for the hole in the chassis bracket. The first two air bags I fought to remove this brass fitting as Monaco/Roadmaster did not apply sealant to the threads and this created a very tight bond between the brass fitting and the steel top plate of the air bag. I found that once the nuts were removed a little coercion with a prybar easily pulls the brass fitting through the hole in the mounting bracket and just knocks the peaks off of the hex of the brass fittings.

I chose not to reuse the original brass reducers and had actually purchased some new ones prior to beginning this job. I purchased some Fastenal part # 69857 (3/4" MNPT to 1/4" FNPT) brass reducers which have a 1-1/16" hex and easily slip right through the hole in the mounting bracket so the brass fitting/reducer can be installed on the work bench before installing in the coach.

Here is a link to the Fastenal 69857 reducers.
https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/69857

Third, I suggest using anti-seize on the threads of all of the studs to not only aid in removal in the event that they ever need to be removed again, but also to aid in installation as the fasteners are easily zipped on using air or even manually with some lubrication on the threads.

I also recommend a good quality thread sealant be used on the air fittings, NOT Teflon tape nor plumbing "pipe dope". Use a good quality thread sealant as sealants have good sealing qualities as well as polymers to prevent dripping out due to heat and aid in installation and removal. I like either Permatex, ARP, or Loctite. I am not a fan of Teflon tape on systems involving air, fuel or hydraulics as the strands can get into places they don't belong and cause lengthy and difficult diagnoses down the road.

Fourth, air bag part #'s. Through my research I have found out some information that I would like to share pertaining to Monaco/Roadmaster air spring/air bags used.

On earlier models (mid-late 90's) Monaco used 3/4" air lines front and 1/4" air lines feeding rear air springs. Somewhere around 2000 (give or take) they went to using all 1/4" air lines for the suspension air springs.

When using the 3/4" air lines they used air bags that had 3/4" NPT threaded ports in the front air springs and 1/4" NPT ports for the rears. Monaco/Roadmaster then switched over to just using air springs with the 3/4" NPT ports and used 3/4" NPT to 1/4" NPT brass reducers in all of the air springs.

They used Firestone air springs from the factory and they served well on our coach for 19 years and 130k miles. That being said, I have found that Contitech (made by Continental Rubber Co.) are equally as good. We use them on all 46 of our OTR trucks at work and 235 48'-53' box trailers with excellent results.

The Monaco/Roadmaster part #'s for air springs were as follows:
* Rears W01-358-9376 (1/4" NPT port)
* Fronts W01-358-8897 (3/4" NPT port)

The Continental branded Contitech crossover part # for the Firestone W01-358-8897 is AS8897. These are readily available from a multitude of vendors.

In early 2021 when I performed the air spring replacement I had purchased mine from Fleet Pride which was local but also I have seen them quite frequently at the company below and they usually have decent pricing for the Contitech air springs Part # AS8897@  truckandtrailerparts.com in Nebraska.
https://www.truckandtrailer.parts/Co...91_p_1509.html

 

 

If this is useful, maybe the moderators can make it a sticky to help others as air spring replacements are becoming a very popular topic over the past couple of years.

 

 

[ktloah]

Excellent tutorial Mike.  I am going to start this process in the spring and follow you on u-tube and enjoy your videos...thank you!

Edited January 2 by ktloah

[zmotorsports]

4 minutes ago, ktloah said:

Excellent tutorial Mike.  I am going to start this process in the spring and follow you on u-tube and enjoy your videos...thank you!

 

Thanks Robbie.  Hope the tutorial is helpful.  It's not a terrible task, but it sure is a dirty one.  🤣

[Bill C]

Great Info Mike, thanks for taking the time to document everything so well.

I replaced 7 of my 10 air bags. When I got to the back drivers side, the rear one (as I recall) it appeared to be a big challenge, and when I saw the tax axle air bags, I said: "I'll let someone else do those, gee wiz they looked hard to do!

Thanks

[zmotorsports]

17 minutes ago, Bill C said:

Great Info Mike, thanks for taking the time to document everything so well.

I replaced 7 of my 10 air bags. When I got to the back drivers side, the rear one (as I recall) it appeared to be a big challenge, and when I saw the tax axle air bags, I said: "I'll let someone else do those, gee wiz they looked hard to do!

Thanks

 

Yeah, the tags look terrible at first glance but it only takes a few minutes to remove the lower control arms, one side only at a time obviously, then it goes much easier.

 

 

[Bill C]

If I ever get motivated again, I'll keep that in mind 🙂

Thanks,

Bill

[Doug and Nicki]

I watched a video last week and the guy used a sawsall to cut the threaded studs off the old bags to get them off. He was able to get the blade in between the bag and plate to get this done. Is there any reason that this is not an acceptable way to easily remove the old bags?

[Scotty Hutto]

Great stuff Mike!  Pinned as suggested. 

[Admirial RVr]

Mike,

Love all your videos . Have followed you for awhile on the other Monaco site. So glad you are on Bill D' Monacoers. I am very appreciative of all the information you provide. Ready to start on my Air Dryer and hopefully Air bags later.

 

[zmotorsports]

20 hours ago, Doug and Nicki said:

I watched a video last week and the guy used a sawsall to cut the threaded studs off the old bags to get them off. He was able to get the blade in between the bag and plate to get this done. Is there any reason that this is not an acceptable way to easily remove the old bags?

 

I guess you could cut the studs off, but mine actually came apart so easily that it would take much more time to cut them than unbolt them. Most of mine once I broke them loose I could get an air ratchet or impact on them and they zipped out fairly quickly. 

 

Also, and this is just a personal reason, I don't like to cut things apart when disassembling as I like to evaluate them once apart and more importantly, I like to use the removal process as a precursor to the installation process.  I've been this way my entire career and avoid destructive disassembly as much as possible.

 

16 hours ago, Scotty Hutto said:

Great stuff Mike!  Pinned as suggested. 

 

Thanks.  Hopefully it will help others as this seems to be more and more of a popular repair lately as these coaches age.

[Doug and Nicki]

Good input. Makes sense. Thanks.

 

[Ivan K]

I had a couple nuts where I had no leverage to break them loose with only couple of fingers that could reach the wrench and when I positioned an airgun on them, I could not reach its trigger. Ended up tying the trigger and had my son connect the other end of hose while I held the gun. The nut was out in fraction of a second. Whatever works...

[Bobbyboy]

Mike: Can you provide a link to your you tube video???

Thanks,  bob L, 08 dynasty

[zmotorsports]

13 hours ago, Bobbyboy said:

Mike: Can you provide a link to your you tube video???

Thanks,  bob L, 08 dynasty

 

Sorry, I deleted it a couple of years ago.

[dennis.mcdonaugh]

Good explaination! That’s about what I did, but my jack stands aren’t tall enough to do it exactly the same way.  I have hydraulic jacks so I drove up on ramps made of 3 layers of 2X lumber then placed blocks under the jacks and dumped the air. I removed the nuts holding the air bags and air connections, then raised the jacks to clear the air bags and put blocking between the frame and axle. I had plenty of room to remove and replace the air bags. 

Edited January 4 by dennis.mcdonaugh

[Bobbyboy]

1 hour ago, zmotorsports said:

 

Sorry, I deleted it a couple of years ago.

I am unclear about the location of your jack stands;  did you do all four corners at one time or just the front, then the rear;  I understand the procedure with the 3 ton jack just unclear about the jack stands.

 

Thanks,  Bob L, 08 dynasty

[Ken Smith]

Mike,

Great advice..... I have have been doing airbags this way for years. It's a lot easier this way to access everything without becoming a contortionist.

[PTTech]

Mike, I always amazed at the people that are ready to criticize how someone like you did it.

I'm equally amazed that I didn't get any criticism of how I did my rear suspension repair myself. Probably just don't have enough followers for anyone to take me seriously. Anyway good to see you on this site. Take care.

Greg

[zmotorsports]

6 hours ago, dennis.mcdonaugh said:

Good explaination! That’s about what I did, but my jack stands aren’t tall enough to do it exactly the same way.  I have hydraulic jacks so I drove up on ramps made of 3 layers of 2X lumber then placed blocks under the jacks and dumped the air. I removed the nuts holding the air bags and air connections, then raised the jacks to clear the air bags and put blocking between the frame and axle. I had plenty of room to remove and replace the air bags. 

 

I don't have hydraulic jacks to work with so on one hand I don't have that fuss or components to have to work around but on the other, one less option.  The way you did it will work well too, but you still had to contend with the tires/wheels being on the coach.  Having the tires/wheels out of the equation was a game changer in my opinion.

 

5 hours ago, Bobbyboy said:

I am unclear about the location of your jack stands;  did you do all four corners at one time or just the front, then the rear;  I understand the procedure with the 3 ton jack just unclear about the jack stands.

 

Thanks,  Bob L, 08 dynasty

 

I had the entire coach off the ground so I could remove all tires/wheels.  I had two 22-ton jackstands at the rear of coach engaged with the frame rails and two 22-ton jackstands at the front engage with the frame rails just behind the steer axle.  I fabricated extra tall inserts for two of my 22-ton jackstands which allowed them to reach up to the front frame rails and cradle the tube framework just behind the steer axle.  The only awkward part was them being so tall I had to slide them under the coach lying down and then right them vertically in position.  It wasn't too terribly hard but more awkward trying to manhandle them upright.

 

4 hours ago, Ken Smith said:

Mike,

Great advice..... I have have been doing airbags this way for years. It's a lot easier this way to access everything without becoming a contortionist.

 

I so agree.  This was the first set of air springs I had done this way because others have just been one or two here and there.  This was much easier on the body. 😏

4 hours ago, PTTech said:

Mike, I always amazed at the people that are ready to criticize how someone like you did it.

I'm equally amazed that I didn't get any criticism of how I did my rear suspension repair myself. Probably just don't have enough followers for anyone to take me seriously. Anyway good to see you on this site. Take care.

Greg

 

Thanks for the welcome Greg, and I agree.  I don't understand the criticism from people when all I was trying to do was help and show them an easy, or easier, way to perform the task.  

 

I have gotten equal criticism almost any time I have welded something on the coach which is often why I just don't show it.  I get comments like "are you certified to perform that repair?"  Are you $@#!ting me???  Certified in what exactly?  I've worked as an industrial maintenance mechanic and automotive mechanic my entire life and have just seen what needs to be done and find a way to do it.  I guarantee my welds are at least as good and solid and anything else on this coach.  People have gotten so wrapped up in the whole legal aspect and political correctness in our society that they have forgotten how to think for themselves and definitely how to do anything for themselves.  Now that being said, I do think there are people that probably shouldn't touch some jobs as I've seen their welds.  🤣

 

I was almost tarred and feathered when I showed how I corrected the thrust angle by shortening my control arms on the driver's side and welding them back together.  

[MHRookie]

Mike,

     Glad to see you are still sharing. Please don't take down your FASS install video... that's a summer project for me...

I'd like to summarize my questions to understand your process.  I'll underline the questions....

You used 4ea 22 ton jack stands (2 front & 2 rear) for the whole process?  I don't think my 22ton stand bases are as tall as yours, so I think I'll have to make longer supports.  Will you share what schedule tubing you used?

          ** Since I only have 2 stands, could the rear be "blocked" up - finish all the front bag R&R, then move to the back?  "Block" front & use stands in rear?

AIR concern..  You say to raise the bags as high as possible then support house w/ jack stands (I assume in the center as much as possible)?  Once you get the "H-frame" supported, do you then release all the air from the system?  I didn't read how you managed air release.

Tire removal - did you only remove 1 wheel/tire from one corner at a time, change bag, and install wheel/tire?  

 

Thanks again Mike, I've enjoyed learning from your updates/upgrades!

Kurt

[Tdkkart]

23 hours ago, zmotorsports said:

I have gotten equal criticism almost any time I have welded something on the coach which is often why I just don't show it.  I get comments like "are you certified to perform that repair?"  Are you $@#!ting me???  Certified in what exactly?  I've worked as an industrial maintenance mechanic and automotive mechanic my entire life and have just seen what needs to be done and find a way to do it.  I guarantee my welds are at least as good and solid and anything else on this coach.  People have gotten so wrapped up in the whole legal aspect and political correctness in our society that they have forgotten how to think for themselves and definitely how to do anything for themselves.  Now that being said, I do think there are people that probably shouldn't touch some jobs as I've seen their welds.  🤣

I was almost tarred and feathered when I showed how I corrected the thrust angle by shortening my control arms on the driver's side and welding them back together.  

 Some people just can't grasp the fact there are those of us out there that can look at one of these kits of loosely assembled parts and really not be phased by any of it, whether it be the engine, suspension system, HVAC,, or the A/C and D/C electrical systems.  It's just parts, most of them are pretty d*** basic, and more than likely most of it was designed and assembled by folks that really didn't have a clue how the whole machine functioned after it was fully built.

Been watching your posts and vids for a LONG time, on the Garage Journal pages and most of your YouTube vids as well. I have the same background and close to the same careers, so I get it.  Keep up the good work and don't let the occasional clown deter you.

Tom

[zmotorsports]

2 hours ago, MHRookie said:

Mike,

     Glad to see you are still sharing. Please don't take down your FASS install video... that's a summer project for me...

I'd like to summarize my questions to understand your process.  I'll underline the questions....

You used 4ea 22 ton jack stands (2 front & 2 rear) for the whole process?  I don't think my 22ton stand bases are as tall as yours, so I think I'll have to make longer supports.  Will you share what schedule tubing you used?

          ** Since I only have 2 stands, could the rear be "blocked" up - finish all the front bag R&R, then move to the back?  "Block" front & use stands in rear?

AIR concern..  You say to raise the bags as high as possible then support house w/ jack stands (I assume in the center as much as possible)?  Once you get the "H-frame" supported, do you then release all the air from the system?  I didn't read how you managed air release.

Tire removal - did you only remove 1 wheel/tire from one corner at a time, change bag, and install wheel/tire?  

 

Thanks again Mike, I've enjoyed learning from your updates/upgrades!

Kurt

 

Kurt, I don't have any pictures of them assembled.  I used 3" x 3/8" wall thickness steel tubing to slide into the jack stand bases.

 

I cut a slight V in the top and bent another piece of .375" thick plate to act as a saddle and welded the saddles into the V notch of the tubing.

 

 

When the extensions are inserted into the jack stands they make for a very solid and stable support for the front end of the coach.  The caveat is that these won't bode well if on any kind of angle so the floor/ground must be perfectly level because if any side load I wouldn't trust them.

 

I found placing them directly behind the steer axle provides a nice solid connection point with the frame rails of the coach and allow the front H-frame to move up/down as needed without any interference from the jack stand extensions.  For the rear, I just use the standard 22-ton jack stands with the original inserts/extensions and grab up under near the engine that is all reinforced below the frame rails.

 

I have four (4) total of the 22-ton jack stands so I place them and then dump the air using the HWH controller, then dump the tanks.  Even then there are some check valves that will retain a small amount of air but once you remove an air line that last bit escapes.  Just don't take chances and make 100% certain that everything is solid and secure.

 

As for tire/wheel removal, although I've had all the tires/wheels off our coach at the same time before, when I replaced the air springs I just removed both fronts, replaced the air springs, then moved to the rear and removed drives, replaced the four drive axle air springs, then moved to the tag.    If you only have two of the heavy jack stands that is one way you could do it but make sure you have the opposite end supported properly by something other than just the air springs, such as some cribbing between the H-frames and frame rails.

49 minutes ago, Tdkkart said:

 Some people just can't grasp the fact there are those of us out there that can look at one of these kits of loosely assembled parts and really not be phased by any of it, whether it be the engine, suspension system, HVAC,, or the A/C and D/C electrical systems.  It's just parts, most of them are pretty d*** basic, and more than likely most of it was designed and assembled by folks that really didn't have a clue how the whole machine functioned after it was fully built.

Been watching your posts and vids for a LONG time, on the Garage Journal pages and most of your YouTube vids as well. I have the same background and close to the same careers, so I get it.  Keep up the good work and don't let the occasional clown deter you.

Tom

 

Thanks Tom.  I appreciate that.  It's funny because it seems people like us look at something and just make a plan, then execute the plan, whereas many people simply cannot grasp the concept as you said.  

 

I'm not saying I'm any better or not based on what someone does for a living, it's just interesting the way our minds work.  I will say I don't go around throwing rocks at what others do or criticize their techniques when I have no idea what I'm talking about.  I just try to stay in my lane and do what I do to the best of my ability and hope my works stands out from the masses in my field.

[MHRookie]

Thanks again Mike.  Your tips/tricks are perfect.

[Makalu]

Amazing write-up. Thanks you very much for this.

[isptbart]

Mike - a GREAT write up & I really appreciated the photos & advice! I'm very envious of your having the shop space & time to take on such necessary projects! Keep the write ups coming! Many Thanks!

Bart from VA